The bonsai is ready to be pierced, is there anything to pay attention to?

1. When the aluminum wire is panza, it can not stop growing during the dormant period of the plant, when the plant is dormant, the aluminum wire will change the structure of the wood fiber and hinder the delivery of nutrients and water. 2. When the aluminum wire is shaped, it is not allowed in the budding period of the plant, when the plant is in the budding, and the plant increases the delivery of nutrients and water to the branches during the budding period of the tree, at this time the branches are the most brittle, and the branches will be broken if you are not careful. 3. The aluminum wire modeling is not allowed, and it is carried out when the stump is alive for less than a year.

The stump has just been transplanted, and it grows healthy on the surface, but the root system is not very developed. At this time, Panza will also lose its branches. However, you can use the pulling technique to change the direction of growth.

The best time for bonsai is in winter, when the growth of bonsai is relatively slow, which is conducive to the normal growth of bonsai from spring to spring.

If this happens, you should trim it, and you should also get rid of the excess and cut it out to create a shape that fits and looks good.

The time of stump bonsai beetle should vary depending on the technique and procedure. The vast majority of stump bonsai panza should be avoided in the cold winter season. Trees have dormant periods.

Even if some evergreen tree species, such as pines and cypresses, boxwoods, June snow, etc., do not wither their green leaves in winter, their physiological mechanisms are dormant or semi-dormant. In cold temperatures, dormant or semi-dormant branches are brittle, and at this time, they can break if you are not careful. Even if it is not broken, as long as it hurts some skin, it will die from the wound when it germinates in spring, and the phenomenon of falling branches will appear, causing irreparable losses.

Do not pierce the stump when it has just sprouted. Because at this time the branch bud attaches to the cortex of the branch. A slight touch will produce bud dropping, resulting in a defect in the future shape.

When the new branches are pulled out and grow to semi-lignification, the branches are soft and easy to prick, and the stump grows quickly and sets quickly. When making thicker branches, it is necessary to cut and saw', which should be done in the spring before the stump buds. As for how to vertically cut, horizontally saw, trim the ends, how to process and tie up, they are generally introduced in the pile view book, and will not be repeated here.

How to tie the stump bonsai varies depending on the growth of the stump. Some stumps are too weak and the branches are not well developed. Caution should be exercised when pricking such stumps.

It is best to make a simple tie or no tie, in order to prevent affecting and starving the growth of the stump, or even affecting the survival of the stump, you can change the soil in the spring to let it continue to grow, and then prick it after the stump grows vigorously. For particularly vigorous tree species, they can be pricked in the same year. Such as elm, pomegranate, plum, knotted ash, etc., under the vigorous forelimbs, can be pruned and pricked in June and July of the year.

If you wait until the next year when the branches have grown thick, it is not easy to tie the shape, and the difficulty of the tie increases, which affects the effect of the pile modeling.

The stump bonsai should vary depending on the length of stump raising time. The piles that have just been cultivated for one year, before the bud germination in the next year, should be pruned intensively according to the needs of the previous year's growth branch data modeling. When the piles that have been cultivated for many years need to be treated in detail, they can be finely trayed.

For the piles that were only picked back in that year, even if there are branches left on the pile, they should not be tied or pulled in any way, if these branches are tied or pulled, it will definitely affect the growth of the pile, and thus affect the survival of the pile. In this regard, we must not rush to success, we should let it grow smoothly, Panzha is not a necessary technique in the stump bonsai modeling, such as the warm climate in the Lingnan region, the plant growth period is long, the growth is vigorous, and the bonsai modeling is mostly used in the technique of "storing branches and cutting dry", and rarely uses Panzha. In today's bonsai production, people advocate "learning from nature."'"Back to nature'The use of the panza technique is also not much. At the same time, many bonsai schools are not all advocating the modeling techniques based on the panza, which is one of the stump bonsai modeling techniques, through the panza, the stump is formed quickly, saving time, but we must understand the physiological cycle of the trees and make a perfect bonsai.

Iron wire, copper wire is OK, first of all, adjust the angle and position of each branch, first determine a whole tie, when some thick branches are bent, the winding wire can not reach the strength of twisting and bending. At this time, another wire should be added. There are also many species with thin bark that can easily cause damage when tied up.

To prevent this from happening, you can tie it with a wrapped wire.

When bonsai is punished, aluminum wire should be used, because aluminum can form an oxide film to prevent metal corrosion in humid air, which is very helpful for bonsai. When pricking, start from the base of the tree and wind upwards at an angle of 30°.

Aluminum is the best, soft steel is also OK, it is better to find a thinner and softer material, easier to weave, and brighter to look good.

Panza is a technique used for styling.

This commonly used technique is used to artistically process bonsai and shape the style of bonsai. Wrapping wire around a tree branch can bend and reset the branch. The branches will get used to their new position after a few months, at which point the wire should be removed.

Double filament tie method. 1.First of all, select the two branches to be pierced, and the branches should be the same thickness and similar position. Remember that the wire should be wrapped around the trunk at least once so that it does not turn when the branch is bent later.

2.Before piercing the tree, cut the wire of the appropriate length. The wire will be used to tie the trunk and branches.

3.Tie the trunk first with wire, then to the first branch.

Before tying another branch, tie the branch from the connector to the top. The wires are tied to the branches at a 45-degree angle, so that the tree can grow thicker while maintaining its shape.

4.If you want to bend the branches directly down towards the main trunk, make sure that the wire is from the bottom to the top (see Figure 1 - blue arrows). If the branches are to be bent upwards towards the main trunk, the wire should be bent from the top down (see the red arrows in Figure 1).

5.After tying the branches two by two, use the monofilament tie method to tie the remaining branches.

Monofilament tie method. 1.Cut the right length of the silk and wrap it around the branch at a 45-degree angle at least two turns, as is the case with the double filament method.

2.When using multiple wires in the same part of the trunk or branch, try to arrange the wires in a parallel pattern (see Figure 2).

3.Continue to prickle the branches.

The time of miscellaneous bonsai binding, on the basis of vegetable sprouts and branches, the first year of pile blank binding is suitable in late September and early October. Generally, the pile billet has begun to sprout before and after Qingming Festival, and after nearly half a year of growth, the branches have basically reached the degree of semi-lignification or lignification; At this time, the branches are soft and elastic, the branches are not easy to break, and there is a growth period in October Xiaoyangchun, helping to tie the appropriate branches is easy to shape, and the wire is free before and after the leaves fall, so that it does not affect the growth of the next year. If it is tied for winter, the bonsai should be placed in a sunny and sheltered place.

The best period for binding in the following year is before and after the sting, when the tree billet is in the dormant recovery stage, and if it is too late, the buds will be knocked off, which is not conducive to operation and affects the growth of the pile billet. Copper wire is better for binding, followed by aluminum wire, and iron wire is the most taboo. The color of the copper wire is basically the same as the color of the branches of the finch plum, and it is not easy to rust, whether in the molding period or in the modeling period, it is conducive to ornamentation and makes people happy.

Aluminum wire and copper wire have their things in common, the difference is that it is not good for viewing after binding. The color of the aluminum wire is too bright, and it dominates. Iron wire is easy to rust, which is not conducive to the growth of branches, especially the iron oxide after rusting of old iron wires corrodes the branches, resulting in poor growth of branches and even death.

The ratio between the thickness of the shoots to be tied to the size of the wire used is 5 to 1, i.e. the shoots are 5 mm thick, and the required wire is 1 millimeter. The branches that are too thin are not easy to bend according to the requirements they envision, and they have to be brought back by the branches.

If it is too thick, it is easy to break the branches. If the branches cannot be bent according to the desired ratio according to such a ratio, add a metal wire of the same specification, do not replace it with a thick metal wire of excessive proportion, otherwise the branches will be easy to break. Tie the branches by pressing the wire against the trunk and extending in a clockwise spiral from the base of the branch to the tip of the branch.

It is to tie the branches that are too long or too straight in an S-shape.

1. It is best to properly control the water of the potting soil before bonsai climbing. That is, wait for the leaves to wilt slightly before watering, so that the branches of the tree are soft and easy to bend.

2. For tree species with thin bark and easy to damage, you can wrap the branches with hemp bark or paper, and then wrap the wire.

3. The root of the wire wrapped around the trunk must be inserted into the potting soil to fix it.

4. The first circle of winding should be fixed with the trunk and then wound to the top.

5. The order of climbing is the main trunk first, the lateral branches at the back, and the last branch; The lower branches first, then the upper branches, and finally the top. Note that the wire is kept at an angle of about 45 degrees to the branch, twisting and twisting to create a bend with the thumb.

6. Do not bend too hard to prevent breaking branches or damaging the bark. The curved protrusion of the branch must be passed by a metal wire so that it is not easy to break.

7. When climbing a certain branch, another branch can be used to fix each other. When winding the last turn, the wire ends can be reversed to prevent loosening.

8. The wire can be wound in a clockwise direction or in a counterclockwise direction, depending on the direction of twisting. If necessary, you can use the branches to change the angle in the middle of the way.

9. When cutting the wire, it is advisable to put the scissors at a right angle to the wire to avoid the formation of a sharp shape at the cut point.

10. Between the wire and the climbing branches, leave a little gap that is not easy to see, not too tight or too loose, to avoid excessive pressure of the wire and damage to the bark.

11. When winding multiple small branches on the same branch, the reputation must be wound at intervals, that is, after the wire is wound around the first branch, skip the second branch and wrap around the third branch; After wrapping around the second branch, skip the third branch, wrap around the fourth, and so on.

The materials used to make stump bonsai need to be pierced, so that the dry branches are twisted and look old. The method is to select the corresponding thickness of the type of lead wire or copper wire, as a spiral wound on the branch, the winding should be sparse appropriate, the direction should be consistent with the direction of the branch twist, so that the branch can be bent and fixed. Some branches with fresh bark should be wrapped with hemp bark before winding to prevent excessive abrasion.

It takes at least 2 years or more to stabilize after the thick branches are rooted. The lead wire on the thin branch can be removed after a year, and sometimes the branch gradually springs back after the lead wire is removed, indicating that it is too early to remove and need to be re-tied. However, the lead wire should not be retained on the branch for too long, otherwise the lead wire will sink into the cortex due to the thickening of the trunk.

To put it simply, it is to use materials and tools such as aluminum wires and brown ropes to adjust the growth direction and angle of tree trunks and branches.