What is the general construction process of primer and putty on the exterior of the car body?

The first is to paint or darken, the main purpose of the first primer is to prevent rust and corrosion on the metal surface, as well as to increase the bonding effect between putty and the metal surface. Commonly used primer: general domestic freight vehicles and buses, steel surface with F06-1 iron red primer; Aluminum and other light metals are used in F06-1 to wake up to the bottom; Medium and high-end cars or imported vehicles can use Japanese Kansai bottom, British ICI one-component primer, etc.

The construction is mainly spraying, and it is required that the brushing must be uniform, no leakage, and no flow marks. Then scrape the first putty, the purpose of the first putty: fill the larger pits, scrape with a wider hard scraper.

Commonly used putty: most of the freight vehicles and buses use homemade oily putty; Medium and high-end cars mostly use two-component putty, such as Parrot 839-20, ICIP 551-150, Japan Kansai putty, etc.

Construction requirements: only scrape flat, not smooth. Since putty is a reinforcing agent for polyvinegar putty, it can be thicker when applied and scraped, and there will be no drying.

For homemade oily putty, it should be adjusted harder. Then polish the putty, and after the putty is dry (the homemade putty generally dries every other day, and the putty is dried for about 1 2h), polish it. It can be used for grinding or grinding.

After the putty has been sanded and dried, a layer of sober bottom barrier is applied (or sprayed). When applying F06-1 sober primer, dilute it with gasoline and stir it to prevent the bottom from sinking. Construction Requirements:

Brush evenly, no flow marks, no leakage. In the case of putty, there is no need for primer. Scrape the second coat of putty.

The purpose of the second putty scraping is still to fill the low recess. Homemade putty should be slightly more oily than the first putty, and the thickness of the scraping should be less than the first layer. If it is a partial scrape, the area should be slightly larger than the first layer.

Use a hard scraper for the plane, and a rubber scraper can be used for the round bend; When scraping, attention should be paid to the horizontal direction of the car shape; Right to left, top to bottom; In order to reduce the coating of the joint, the scraping and painting should be elongated as much as possible, and the construction requirements should be mainly scraped and flattened. Polishing the second layer of putty, the grinding of the second layer of putty generally adopts wet grinding, which is conducive to improving the grinding quality of the putty layer. Depending on the thickness of the putty layer, 120 180 gauge water sandpaper (or an appropriate amount of terrazzo) can be used.

The grinding should be achieved: basically flat, obviously low concave in the touch element, and the surface slurry should be cleaned.

Standard process flow of automotive paint.

1.The car body is rust prevention and interior spraying: depending on the condition of the body, it is completed by a sheet metal worker.

2.Grinding and retouching beveled edges: Use P60 180 sandpaper to polish the parts of the body that have been repaired with sheet metal and require putty.

3.Dust removal and cleaning: Use a pressure gun and silicone cleaner to remove fine dust and stains from the car body.

4.Wrapping: Use the reverse sticking technique to apply the masking paper.

5.Paint Primer: Mix 4:1 red primer and spray 1 2 coats to expose the metal after sanding, then bake dry.

6.Putty filling: Mixed multi-purpose putty is filled in the hollow position of the car body and placed at 20 degrees Celsius for 30 minutes.

7.Sanding putty: Use P60 240 sandpaper to sand, check the flatness, pinholes and imprints with a feel or sanding indicator layer.

8.Extra young putty: when necessary, it can be used to fill pinholes, sandpaper marks, etc.

9.Sanding: Use P280 sandpaper to thoroughly polish the old paint on the body that needs to be sprayed with intermediate paint.

10.Dust removal and cleaning: Use a pressure gun and silicone cleaner to remove dust and stains from the car body.

11.Wrapping: Cover with masking paper.

12.Spraying intermediate paint: mix 2 3 layers of multi-functional intermediate paint, each layer is spaced at an interval of 5 to 10 minutes, then bake dry at 60 degrees Celsius for 30 minutes, and then spray with a sanding indicator layer.

13.Sanding the intermediate paint: Use P320 400 sandpaper to sand the dried intermediate paint.

14.Inspection: Check the grinding effect, and micro-filling can be done.

15.Dust removal and cleaning: Remove dust and stains from the car body.

16.Care: Cover the car body.

17.Dust removal and cleaning: first blow out the dust spots on the body with a pressure gun, remove the stains on the body with a silicone cleaner, blow out the dust from the gaps in the body with a pressure gun, and finally use a sticky dust cloth to remove the fine dust on the body.

18.Topcoat spraying plain paint: spray 2 3 layers, each layer is spaced 5 10 minutes apart, and the curing agent and thinner are added according to the temperature.

19.Spraying base paint: spraying 2 3 layers of plain paint, silver powder paint or pearl paint, each layer with an interval of 5 to 10 minutes.

20.Varnish spraying: Mixing and spraying two layers of varnish, each layer at an interval of 5 to 10 minutes, with the addition of curing agent and thinner according to the temperature.

21.Bake dry: Let stand for 5 10 minutes, 30 minutes at 60 degrees Celsius.

22.Waxing and polishing.