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You don't have to say that at all.
The water sticker can be pasted directly, although the gloss and the plastic of the prime group model are not very different, but it is acceptable to newcomers, as for the white edge, you have to tick off, personal hobby, not recommended at all.
The owner of the plain group can use the water paste of the county to soften the adhesive, which can react with the water sticker, and the white edge is basically the same as the whole, and I have also used the ABS model glue brush on the surface of the water sticker, and the effect is very good. The sticker will be very firmly attached to the surface of the model (in fact, the ABS glue corrodes the sticker on the surface of the model, but it should be noted that this method can only be used for the colored model, and do not touch or brush the second before the glue on the brush is dry, otherwise the sticker will be broken).
If the landlord is playing with spray paint, directly apply a layer of varnish or matte paint, and the white edge gloss will also be unified with the whole.
In addition, the water paste is a water-soluble glue as a adhesive, it is not sticky when it dries, and it will definitely fall off after a long time without protective paint, but that is N years later, and it depends on the brand, if the water paste is of good quality, there should be no problem with any treatment, if it is a military model, there is no problem with Tamiya Weilong's, and Edmei's water paste is fragile, crackable and easy to fall off, and you have to do some hands and feet. Domestic model ......Lee is not clear about the pattern and the worst part of the adhesion is still okay, and the trumpeter's is okay ......Don't talk about anything else, in short, it is not recommended to tick off the white edge, it is necessary to deal with it, depending on how convenient the landlord is.
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The water sticker on the plain group generally does not fall, if LZ wants to pursue better, then use the water sticker softener.
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1. The pen knife is used to deal with the nozzle, and the sandpaper can deal with the place where the pen knife can not go in, or to deal with the parting line, which is also the preparation before the model is colored (this technical level is going to rise one level, so I will not talk about it here).
2. The phenomenon of albino has nothing to do with novices and veterans, it is a normal phenomenon, so many people need to paint by themselves, understand? The method of reducing this color difference is as follows: cut with scissors, and then sandpaper sanding, 400-2000 sandpaper to polish step by step, buy Japanese Tamiya sandpaper, and then use sanding paste to polish step by step, and finally use very fine polishing to reduce the slightest state.
You can use a marker pen to remedy the coloring, you can also buy paint to make up the color, and you need to buy a thinner and a face pen to color the paint.
3. If the parts are loose, you need to stick the seam adhesive firmly. If the joints are tight, corrode them with a slit glue or reaming them with scissors. Lock in the loose, and use 502 to thicken the joint.
4. Jitter is a normal phenomenon, so there is bleeding technology. If the hook line comes out, or it is wrong, it can be wiped off with lighter oil, and the eraser can be erased. You need to buy paint, thinner, and a face pen to seep the pigment into it.
The marker is broken, and if it can't be saved, let's replace it with a new one.
The so-called special 5 Gundam luminous stickers are also the gimmicks of the seller's **, there is no so-called special or not, it is a few dollars a large sheet, which is enough for you to use several Gundam ones. You're good to go. I don't know how to ask again.
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