The Gunpla prime set, with glue, now found that the seams are yellow!! Solve

The yellowing problem will not appear as long as you use Tamiya's glue, but I, who is also a prime-group player, said that it is best not to deal with the joints of the prime-group model for the following reasons:

If the joint joint is treated well, it can be eliminated, but instead it is replaced by more unsightly abrasion marks, no matter how fine sandpaper you use in the end, or how thick the sanding paste is, a layer of dust will appear on the surface after ten minutes. But don't be afraid for spray players, who often have to re-coat the model after playing, so that the gray areas are covered.

There is also spraying matte paint is not able to cover the layer of ash, if you want to cover it must be colored pigments, if you can, LZ buy a bottle of special paint up to your own pen, 15 yuan a bottle, the pen is enough to use an ordinary brush, if the area is small, you can consider the face pen.

Matte paint can eliminate the plastic feeling is yes (whether you have color or pen paint), but the bad part is that it is easy to fall off the paint when playing with the model, so if LZ is a person who often plays with the model, there is no need to spray, in addition, in terms of price, I bought a bottle of 40 yuan in the physical model store, and there is nearly half of the dosage (sprayed MG free, MG can angel, HG pitch black attack, BB zero zero, etc.).

These are my experiences in the past few years, forget lz (typing so many words at once, it's really a little tired haha ).

Domestic glue is not professional, the quality and composition are problematic, and once the oxidation is serious, it will turn yellow.

The problem with glue matting paint is generally not necessary to spray.

You need a little glue, because some parts don't have a particularly tight connection, so you need to apply some glue to it to make it more secure. The glue doesn't have to be very good, a little bit will do the trick if you accidentally don't break the parts. Then you need a good glue.

You don't need to, and you can stick some parts that are easy to fall.

If you are a vegetarian group, buying a bottle of yellow or green cap is enough for you for 10 years

Your question itself is a bit contradictory, friend, there is no easy way to do seamless, and you want to do seamless, and you don't want to color it yet.

If you do seamless, then you must polish the seamless place, and if you polish, there will definitely be sanding marks, and you usually have to color it later to cover up some sanding marks, which is very understandable.

If you don't paint the night, the effect is definitely not very good, and the miscellaneous ordinary glue **Cheap There are many brands.

Look at yourself and don't pay attention to the brand anymore.

I think you can just buy Tamiya's glue.

If it's not colored or simply colored, such as simple hooking, you don't want to do anything seamless first, and then you have the conditions and good craftsmanship to do it.

Model tools: General Model scissors pen knife Grinding stick Relatively fine sandpaper Black pencil Model special backing plate There are these basic can be elemental.

There are two ways to do it seamlessly.

The glue has an orange cap and a green cap.

The method of the orange cover is to paint the edge of the model with glue on both sides before the model is assembled, and then press to death, wait for it to dry, to let the glue overflow, you can use a clip to dry after applying the glue, and then use a pen knife to remove the excess glue after drying, then polish it with sandpaper, and finally polish it again with sanding paste until there is no trace and it is OK.

Green cover, the full name is called high fluidity glue, this glue does seamless need to be installed in the model after assembly, the model is coated in the crack, and then pressed tightly, do not have to worry about whether the glue will flow into the crack of the model, definitely, the green cover is for so it is called high flow, and then the method behind is the same as the orange cover.

If you don't paint it, you don't need to do it seamlessly, and it can even be said that if you do it seamless, it will be ugly and have all kinds of scars.

If it is a vegetarian group, it is recommended to be patient and handle the nozzle well, and the combination degree of Bandai is very high, so you don't have to worry about the gaps.

There may be deficiencies in the understanding of seamless processing, please multi-bubble forum post bar seamless is naturally green cover.

It seems that the orange cover can also be ......

Hello First of all, it is not recommended to polish the prime.

If you sand, follow the order of 500, 1000, 1500, from coarse sandpaper to fine sandpaper.

There are two ways to fix your scratches now.

1. Buy fine sandpaper No. 1500 or more, continue to grind and polish, 2, as said upstairs, spray a layer of matting paint (B-514) to eliminate the height difference and uneven reflection caused by sandpaper.

In the end, the upper layer of matting paint is almost invisible.

In fact, as long as it is exposed, the stitching seam can be made seamless, and there is no mandatory requirement to do it without seamlessness. The following is the step of seamless processing, seamless processing, first of all, the joint of the two parts are coated with Tamiya's general glue (white cap or vial orange cap), and then the two parts are put together, be careful not to close completely, to leave a gap space, and then infiltrate into the slit glue in the gap, and then the two parts can be completely merged, when merging, squeeze the parts hard, squeeze out the excess glue as much as possible, and then wait for the glue to dry completely (at least three to five hours). After drying, use a pen knife to cut off the excess and dry glue, and finally polish it with sandpaper and then use sanding paste to remove the grinding marks.

The first floor is a bit wrong, like the HG Q version, some of them are actually made to be seamless, and the mg PG and the like are because they are endoskeletons, and the armor is put together on the card slot, so as long as the bones are good, if they are like 1 35 1 24 and so on, they don't need it.

Nozzle treatment: Generally, after cutting the parts and runner plates with diagonal pliers, there will be whitish at the place of the fracture, which is normal. Indeed, as you can see in the tutorial, leaving a little and then sanding slowly with sandpaper, this process is essential.

Sandpaper is used from low to high; Depending on the personal production effect, you can choose whether to use sanding paste, and you can use it if you want to do a good job. The basic treatment method of the nozzle of the electroplating parts is the same, but when it is finally ground to the same level as the parts, it can be repaired with a marker pen of the same color as the electroplating parts.

Matting paint: Because the parts are made of ABS and PS resin, and the surface will be smooth, it will be reflective, and it feels like a model, and there is no physical texture, so the problem of reflection is solved by spraying matting paint. Some call matting paint protective paint, which is generally sprayed after sticking water stickers.

Just spray it, there are no other steps.

Pen knife: The pen knife is generally used to repair parts. The parting line is generated when the parts are formed in the abrasive, because the abrasive is a yin and yang mold, and a line will be generated in the middle or part when some parts are formed, and the parts will feel that the parts are not integrated, which is the parting line.

Seamless processing: For example, the head or legs of the Gundam are composed of two pieces of left and right, which will produce a seam that is not very aligned in the middle, which can be operated by glue and soil filling, and then polished after drying, and finally it does not look like the two parts are put together, and it feels like one piece. Generally, if it is seamless, it will be painted with spray paint, otherwise the color and parts of the soil will be different.

Shuikou personally feels how comfortable it is! The nozzle scissors are in the end, and the methods on the tutorial cannot guarantee that you will not be white after polishing! After all, sanding is all about coloring!

Sandpaper does not have to use a brand, nor does it necessarily have to use water sandpaper, domestic sandpaper or sanding rods in hardware stores, and model setbacks. You can also grind it according to the standard 600, 800, 1000, 1200, or you can grind it coarsely, after all, it will leave traces after polishing, no matter how many sandpapers you use! The rope group is generally not necessary, because it does not have a particularly decisive effect!

Generally, the grinding paste is used to polish a light or polish transparent parts! Electroplating is generally designed to hide the nozzle, if there is no hidden nozzle, you can only handle it carefully, it depends entirely on personal skills! Again, polishing is all about preparing for coloring!

Matting paint has two functions, one is to protect the surface of the model and prevent oxidation! There is also the need to remove the shine of the model or paint to make the model look more realistic! That's pretty much it! Extinction is mainly to pay attention to the dosage, spraying distance and method!

The parting line should be the so-called burr or flash, which belongs to some small flaws of the model caused by the mold, which are not artificially generated. Use a pen knife to sharpen, dig, pick and so on!

Seamless, is to glue the two parts together, polish the joint flat, to put it bluntly, it is still a process to prepare for coloring! Rope groups are basically not used! And because the model is not easy to disassemble after gluing, it is necessary to prepare for the future painting and color separation in advance, so if you don't need to spray it, try not to do it seamlessly!

Number 1000? It is best to use coarser sandpaper first, and then use fine sandpaper, if necessary, use sanding paste. After grinding, spray matting paint one by one, generally the reflective degree of the parts will be weakened after the matting paint is sprayed, but if the spray is not good, it will turn white, and there will be no follow-up.

parting line"? Don't pay too much attention to this, that is, there is a thin line on the surface of the part, and it is no big deal. Seamless?

First apply a large amount of glue (not 502) on the joint surface of the two parts, then merge the parts, let the glue overflow, wait for a few days, after the glue dries, polish the glue part of the part, and the surface is basically seamless after the surface is flat.

Sandpaper can also be made domestically, but it is not very durable = =..Polishing paste can also be used, with toothpaste effect is as good, matting paint spray will not reflect = = seamless with seamless glue,,, it is recommended that the landlord go to the model making network to see = = such as 78

1. Part of the coloring (money-saving, convenient) materials: what are the differences between the comparison model and the set color such as Gundam marker, color palette, face photographer, cotton swab, etc., and use the same color to supplement the color. Where the marker tip is not available, press the pen tip to squeeze the color onto the palette, and use the face pen to color, if you feel strong, you can add some solvent appropriately.

2. All the brushes are painted and colored (the effect will be better than the local coloring, but it takes more practice to leave no brushstrokes) Materials: water-based gunpla paint, solvent (in fact, water can also be used), model paint retardant, flat pen, face pen, palette, palette stick, dropper, paper towels, etc. 1. Place parts of different colors separately. 2. Use a toning stick to put the pigment out to the palette, add solvent with a dropper, and put a delay agent appropriately (which can effectively alleviate the strokes) 3. After adjusting the color, use the pen to dip the paint in the part frame or the back of the part to check the color, and you can color.

4. The color should be thinly coated with multiple layers using the cross method, and the coating can effectively reduce the brushstrokes along the texture trend of the parts.

3. Spray gun coloring (uniform paint film, outstanding effect, high technical content, expensive cost) Materials: spray gun, air compressor (air bottle can also be used), gunpla paint spray gun, color reference table, toning stick, dropper, masking tape, foam board, bamboo stick, clip, double-sided tape, tweezers, pen knife, cutting pad, steel ruler, mask, etc. 1, classify parts of different colors 2, adjust the required color according to the color table 3, use a pen knife, steel ruler, etc. to paste the masking tape, and do the covering operation for the parts, Fix the parts on the foam board with bamboo sticks and other tools 4, pour the color into a clean spray gun, adjust it, try to spray 5, adjust it to color, spray it thinly several times (dry to spray the second layer) 6, spray back into the foam board to dry. *(Sprinkler irrigation, basically the same) Special coating.

1. Washing stain washing (the technique used for weathering can make the model look more textured and make the effect of stains) Materials: enamel paint, solvent, flat pen, paper towel 1, dilute the enamel paint with solvent, to be very thin, about 1:3, adjust it according to your needs 2, use diluted pigments to "wash" the parts in a reasonable order 3, use paper towels and other materials to absorb excess paint.

4. Place in a ventilated place to dry.

2. Dry sweeping (to make the water chestnut angle of the model more prominent, increase the three-dimensional effect, which is equivalent to adding highlights to the painting) Materials: model paint (generally white), brushes (old or waste can be), paper towels, etc. 1, dip a little paint with a paintbrush 2, wipe off the paint with a paper towel (basically leave no color) 3, gently sweep the rhombus edge of the model and other places that need to be prominent.

3. Pearl coating (let the model shine with a charming luster like pearls) Materials: pearl powder, glossy transparent paint, toning sticks, palettes, solvents, etc. 1. Pour out the pearl powder on the palette 2. Take out the transparent paint with a toning stick to adjust the pearl powder, and you can put some solvent if you think it is thick 3. Adjust evenly with a toning stick, it must be uniform, the pearl powder is easy to precipitate, 4. Spray with a spray gun.

The first time the newcomer is in the prime group, it is not recommended to buy such an expensive one, you can buy a cheap practice hand, like buying a domestic TT (high) HG or MG, and the domestic mg is only a few dozen yuan on the Internet, and this hundreds of Bandai are much cheaper, not to mention that you are a novice thing, and the knife is crooked, and the hundreds of Gundam are in the wrong place, and it is distressing.

It is recommended that you start with 1 144 hg to practice, and good component color separation can also not require too much coloring.

The tools you need to prepare (for novices) are not cheap to buy a professional pen knife, so it is recommended that you buy it this way.

Start by buying a bottle of matting nail clippers double-ended gravers (the engraved ones are cheap).

Easy assembly tutorial for beginners.

First of all, open the box, take out all the plates (some of the domestic plates are more oily, so simply soak them in soapy water overnight) and spray them with matting.

Then use nail clippers to cut out the parts, use a cutter to cut off the excess, and then you look at the instruction manual group.

The above method is not to outline the line of the prime group, and if you use a needle pen (ranging from 5 to 7 yuan) to draw a simple stroke, and then matte and color, if you can't afford professional pigments, it is recommended that you use acrylic paint, use a small oil brush to color, the effect is also very good.

In addition, you have to look at this carefully, if you are using a water-based pencil, use oil-based matting paint, and if you are oil-based, you should use water-based matting, and acrylic is considered oil-based, so it is better to use water-based.

It's cheap, let's do the math.

First of all, the main body is as high as 1 144 TT is about 30 yuan, 15 yuan online, more than 50 good matting general, 9 yuan.

Needle pen 5 yuan acrylic Mary's bottle 10 yuan z

If you want to make a Gundam, you can do it, it's a beginner's universal Gundam method, it's easy and fast, and it can achieve beautiful results at the same time.