What should I do if the small spittoon runs out of focus? The newly bought small spittoon, running J

The small spittoon is originally meaty, not necessarily scorched.

There are some things you can try.

Increase the shutter speed to prevent the meat caused by hand shaking.

Press the shutter as soon as possible after successful focus to reduce the relative movement of the object when framing.

Shrink the aperture appropriately (small spittoons improve sharpness later).

**Sharpness is appropriately increased in the style settings.

A small spittoon is basically not good below the f4 aperture, and I use a 400d machine with more than 50% of the ** paste. The advanced fuselage may be better, but it is estimated that the general direction is still running.

It is said that because the motor accuracy of the small spittoon is not good, it is not well controlled at a large aperture, so there is no other solution except to adjust the aperture down.

The small spittoon was lent out, and there was no way to verify the above statement. I have tried all kinds of 6D+85 aperture shutters I am using now, and I am sure that I am not out of focus. In addition, I don't run with 400d + Tamron 17-50. Taken together, the small spittoon itself is more likely to be a problem.

Turning the aperture down a stop or two, imaging at the maximum aperture is a bit soft. Also, try not to focus on the composition as much as possible, and if you are out of focus, try to fine-tune the fuselage.

Meat in low light, meat in large aperture, and meat when the shutter is low.

The reasons are comprehensive.

It is best to get on a tripod and check it again with a focus test card.

Blur ability.

It is mainly to look at the aperture.

Small spittoon maximum aperture.

Although in the prime lens.

It's not the biggest, but it's not the bigg

General zoom lens.

It's a lot bigger.

Natural bokeh. Much more capable.

Also about. The small spittoon is scorched.

Not really. Lens issues.

Large-aperture lenses.

It's all about focusing on the focusing system.

and the technical requirements of shooting are a little higher.

All are easy to run. More than 10,000.

The same goes for 50l.

It would be a little better with a high-end body.

However, it still depends on careful focusing.

I think some people may say that the out-of-focus is just a problem of use, because when using the maximum aperture, the depth of field is very small and difficult to control, so when you don't master it well, focusing errors often occur, and it is often found that the focus is not in the desired place after shooting. To avoid this problem, one is to practice more, and the other is not to use the maximum aperture when it is not necessary.

However, because this lens does not use an ultrasonic motor, the focusing sound is really loud, and the focusing speed is relatively slow.

After all, the price is here, and you can't ask for too much, so this lens is called one of the "three treasures of the poor".

This statement is not correct, my machine is 5d4 when the dual-core focus is turned on, and the dual-core focus is not opened. I went to a Canon special maintenance point just now, and the engineer said that maybe this lens is good on other bodies, and it is necessary to test or adjust the lens first.

If you don't have focus, you can't call it out of focus, and you should be precise in focusing with a large aperture!

It's just put there. You have to know that the material of the lens of the SLR is very expensive, 50 is already very cheap for the SLR, and the manufacturer will lose money if you use the ultrasonic motor...

Isn't it just a broken B lens, as long as there are more SLR users, Guangdong and Zhejiang will set a domestic head, and then these brand lenses will die if they don't drop their prices.

Large-aperture prime lenses will have some out-of-focus problems, so why do the 50 fixed focus at the high-end point support full-time manual focusing, which is to let you make micro calls! The main difference between 50 and is the effect of bokeh, which is indeed quite worse! Joch is basically the same!

It's not as you think, the bokeh image is not a beautiful circular light spot, but a polygon (like a heptagon), but the background blur is very obvious, shooting portrait close-ups is still very good (absolutely worth the money), it is a full lens, it can be used if you upgrade the full set of machines in the future, it is worth buying, you need to pay attention to the following points when buying: whether the metal contacts on the lens EF mount are scratched, whether the lens is transparent, mold-free and dust-free. In addition, the front end of some small spittoons is very loose, so it is recommended to choose carefully.

Then attach the camera body and detect whether it is out of focus in the autofocus state. To buy this kind of thing, it is recommended to go to Beijing Maliandao, where there are many such things, and it is worth your pick. And there's a shop:

Jindian camera shop, I have been there for a long time, and my reputation is very good, and you can go there or their ** shop when you have the opportunity. Don't look at the regret to die you.

I didn't run into it until the camera dropped a few times on the ground. I haven't heard the 50 of the N family that LZ said that it is better. Needless to say, this is definitely a good mirror.

The support is very cost-effective, not as serious as it is said.

In fact, it's best not to use a 50mm lens for portraits, although the aperture of the small spittoon is large, the bokeh imaging is too rubbish, there are obvious 2 linear colors, and the color is relatively dry, and the bokeh is very messy, which will impress the main atmosphere, and the things that are shot always feel almost meaningless. It is recommended to shoot bust portraits with a lens of 85mm or more, and use a lens of about 35mm to shoot environmental portraits, 50mm is actually not easy to use.

There are really no shortcomings in this ** head.

It's perfect, the imaging is very thin, the aperture is large, and I've used it, and it's not bad.

I didn't run the focus, and the second one was a little quieter than the first.

I'm two in and two out, and I still want to get in, mainly because it's cheap.

It is also cost-effective to use as a lens cap.

It's better than the pullover, because it has a large aperture, which is completely a technical problem for the focus, but the slightly slower focus is its shortcoming, and it will not be so perfect after all.

The small spittoon aperture is larger than the aperture of the sleeve, and of course the bokeh effect will be better.

I think more than eighty percent of the problems are use problems. Because the depth of field is very small when using apertures, you may miss the focus point and misplace it, resulting in blurring of the subject after the shot is released. One of the ways to solve this problem is to practice more and practice your eyesight to ensure accurate focusing, and the other is to reduce the aperture by one or two stops and increase the depth of field when it is not necessary, so that it is easier to shoot the subject clearly.

The image quality of the 50 is no worse than that of the 24-70 in the 50mm, and this is the strength of the fixed focus.

The bokeh ability is to look at the aperture dominantly.

The maximum aperture of the small spittoon is not the largest in the prime lens, but it is much larger than the general zoom lens, and the natural bokeh is much stronger.

Actually, it's not a lens problem.

Large-aperture lenses are all focusing, which has higher requirements for focusing system and shooting technology, and is easy to run, and the same is true for 50L, which is more than 10,000.

It would be a little better with a high-end body, but it still depends on careful focusing.

Since there is a problem with the newly bought lens, then of course you have to return it after sale! This is the right of consumers under the Consumer Law!

Of course, before going to the theory, it is necessary to do a detailed inspection of the lens, and then go to the after-sales service after determining that it is a quality problem. That's justified!

This is true, especially at wide apertures, where focus is hard to focus accurately.

At present, the Canon II 50 STM head uses an STM stepping motor, which makes it easier to focus accurately, but there are still running situations, so it is usually better to use manual focusing.

On the newer mid-to-high-end body, the alignment is much better, because the new mid-to-high-end body comes with a better focusing system.

But despite this, the 50 heads are forgivable for their better imaging and bokeh effects, as well as their lower **.

17-40 deformation, not very serious. It's still 17-55, this is better, and it can be a portrait and a landscape, and it's good to shoot portraits in the 40s.

Not sure, because I don't know what you're filming?

If you are shooting a moving object, the machine is very stable, and the object is moving, and it will not be clear.

If you suspect that it is out of focus, you can use a scale to try with the maximum aperture and aim the focus point at a specific scale. Look at the actual ** focus, whether there is a deviation.

A large-aperture lens similar to 1 point 8 is possible to be out of focus.

The small spittoon is the worst fixed focus Diagonal is very bad It's easy to get out of focus Since it's a mountain tripod, I'm using real-time framing myself, and then aim at the diagonal point of the screen to zoom in and then manually focus Fast and accurate Very practical.

The focusing system of the lens at this level is not very accurate, and a smaller aperture can be significantly improved.

It's a bit out of focus, unless you manually focus on it yourself.