Canon 600D18 135 Close up Shooting How does it work?

Landlord, each lens has its characteristics, 18-135 is good for travel, and 600-29 is equivalent on 216d. It is covered from wide angle to telephoto, which is basically enough for the trip, so there is no need to bother changing lenses. Compared with it, the 18-55 has a shorter focal length, with an equivalent focal length of 29-88, which is enough to shoot landscapes and portraits.

In addition to shooting close-ups in the distance, telephoto is used less frequently in other aspects, and the magnification of 18-55 is relatively large, which can meet a certain macro photography, and is cost-effective. Shooting people generally requires a wide aperture to blur the background, and the light at home is weaker than outdoors, which is more suitable for large apertures. The 50's prime is Canon's cheapest prime head, around 600, and the equivalent of 80mm at the 600D is suitable for portraits.

The second question from the landlord, but I don't understand the close-up of the characters too well, is the background closer to the characters? These two lenses can be shot regardless of whether the background is far or close to the subject, as long as the aperture is reduced, preferably f8 (the best aperture), the person and the background can be very clear, but if you are shooting a long shot of the person, it is best to use a wide angle below 35mm, that is, the focal length of these two lenses is 18-22mm. In terms of picture quality, 18-55 is slightly better than 18-135, but it is basically invisible.

If the landlord only needs a camera and a mirror, it is recommended to 18-135 (no need to change the head for travel), if you want to add fixed focus and telephoto in the future, it is recommended to buy 18-55 sleeve (this head can meet most of the daily life of taking pictures, but also has a certain macro function, cost-effective).

The price of 18-55 is about 500, the price of 18-135 is about 2000, and the price of 50 is about 600.

Mine is 600D18-135, I can only say that novices can get started with 600D, 18-135 has a wider focal length, and ordinary shooting can be satisfied.

As long as it is a camera, you can not only shoot landscapes, people, flowers, but also the moon, the sea, animals, etc., as long as you see it with the naked eye, you can take pictures, but the lenses of different grades are brilliant in some aspects. The longer the focal length of the lens, the greater the magnification like a telescope, and the angle of view of a 50mm lens is comparable to that of the human eye, and 135mm is a multiple of 50mm. In other words, when you shoot an egg 10 meters away with a 50mm lens and a 135mm lens in the same position, the 135mm lens will image twice as much as the 50mm lens.

600d with 18-135mm lens focal length from wide angle to medium focal length, general family life** and even travel photography, landscape, portrait and other photography are absolutely enough, the key depends on how the mind behind the camera uses the camera.

If you want to take care of it, it's 18-135, this travel head, with convenience. Convenience is actually very important when traveling.

The 18-55 and 18-135 are low-end lenses in their respective focal lengths, and it should be said that there is no problem in shooting close-ups and people, but the 18-135 covers a wider focal length and is more convenient. If you're looking for a bokeh effect, you can get a 50mm prime lens.

It's hard to shoot macro with this setup.

"Macro" means shooting at a large magnification at a relatively close range, and the human eye often cannot see objects close to 15cm clearly, and the optical calibration of professional macro lenses is designed according to the needs of close-up shooting. According to the German industrial standard, the imaging ratio greater than 1 1 is called macro photography, and the "dandelion" on the right shows an image as large as the scene on the negative. The definition in the American Dictionary of Contemporary Photography is explained as "photography with a camera with an image ratio of 1 to 1 or greater".

The ratio we are talking about here refers to the proportional relationship between the size of the negative image and the actual product, and the maximum shooting ratio of the standard lens of a 35mm camera is 1 10. In fact, it is internationally accepted in the photography community that the ratio of about 1 1 1 4 images is macro photography, and 10 1 200 1 is microphotography.

The rules of shooting. 1.Magnify to about 5 times according to the proportion of the subject;

2.In general, use an aperture no greater than f16;

3.Using a shallow depth of field is essential;

4.It is recommended to install close-up lenses;

5.In the natural environment, the influence of wind is great, pay attention to eliminate its influence on shooting;

6.A stable tripod is a must;

7.Cloudy but bright weather is especially good for macro photography.

There are three factors that affect the bokeh effect: aperture, depth of field, and shooting distance. You only need to keep this in mind to get a better bokeh effect: use the maximum focal length of the lens, the maximum aperture, and the smaller the shooting distance, the better.

Maximum focal length, which refers to the 135 ends of the lens; The maximum aperture refers to the smallest aperture value (you use f22 just the other way around); The minimum shooting distance refers to the distance between the camera and the target, the smaller the better.

Among them, the shooting distance contributes the most to the depth of field; The focal length of the lens is second; The aperture is the lowest (blindly using the maximum aperture, the image is very poor, and it is easy to shoot false).

So, try this configuration: 100 focal length, f8 aperture, and shoot a headshot (so that the head-chest image fills the frame). The background should not be too bright; The ratio of the distance between the camera, the target, and the background is 1:1.

As above, good luck!

f22 is a small aperture.

The smaller the number, the larger the aperture.

Then if you want to bokeh, you can use a telephoto.

The shutter speed of shooting in darker places should not be as fast.

Slow down.

Light sensitivity is not a panacea.

When the light sensitivity is high, the grain (i.e. noise) will be very large, and it will be obvious to shoot at a slower speed as much as possible.

Bokeh Condition:

1. Large aperture.

2. Long focal length.

3. The distance between the subject and the background.

Dear, you have a wrong understanding of the aperture.

A large aperture is a small aperture value...

You jumped to f22, what a small aperture it is...

The smaller the aperture value, the larger the aperture, and F22 is the minimum aperture, so naturally the bokeh effect will not be captured.

1 All if according to your question, how far can 18-135 shoot, the conversion method is 135 * 50 * 1 to 3 is its shooting distance (accurate focus, clear picture), of course, it can also be infinite, but the person on the picture is a black dot should not be what you want.

What lens is matched with 600D is determined according to your shooting needs, under normal circumstances, 28mm or less belongs to the wide-angle end (the calculation of the wide-angle end of 600D needs to be divided, that is to say, 18mm below 600D belongs to the wide-angle end, this is determined by the configuration of the low-end machine itself), the wide-angle end is used to shoot landscapes and short-distance scenes, 50mm is used to shoot scenes with most angles, 85mm is used to shoot portraits, and the telephoto end is used to shoot long-distance scenes, According to this law, you can determine what kind of lens you need, if it is mainly landscape, tourism and portrait, then you can use your sleeve well.

If you have a definite need, such as shooting portraits, then put in a standard lens, which translates to a portrait head of about 85mm on 600d.

According to your question, you should want to have a telephoto, as a beginner, you can choose the 18-200 entry head at the telephoto end, which basically covers the wide-angle end, the telephoto end, and the telephoto end can shoot scenes within 20 to 30 meters, which should be able to meet your level needs.

To put it simply, the 18-135 is indeed a classic entry-level lens with a wide range of focal lengths. Strong applicability. If you shoot people at 135mm, you can stand 10 meters away for the purpose of taking a close-up of your upper body.

Stand in the same position and shoot the same object The larger the focal length, the shallower the depth of field You use 135 focal length to shoot this effect to increase the clear distance, the more clear places The problem of lens use is the landlord You can go to Canon's official website.

The maximum aperture of the 18-135 lens is too small (the wide-angle end is the telephoto end, and the noise is more when equipped with 60D high sensitivity (ISO) to 1600 or more.

The main features of night scene shooting: first, the light is dark (easy to be insufficient), second, the light is complex and changes quickly (easy to cast color), and second, the shooting target is moving (easy to blur and blur).

Shoot night scenes with a combination of 60d+18-135, especially without a tripod, without a tripod and a flash (the night scene is far away, and the flash is useless).

For those who are not very proficient in shooting in manual (M) mode, it is recommended to shoot in the camera's "Speed Priority" (TV) mode, and set the **time to 1 30 seconds or more. It can be increased or decreased according to the movement of the shooting object, the static object is 1 30 seconds, the lens stabilization is turned on to basically keep the camera stable and clear, and the time of the motion object is adjusted to about 1 100, in order to ensure that it is not blurred), adjust the sensitivity (ISO) and white balance to auto, use spot metering or ** key average metering for the main metering method for the subject, and use evaluation metering for the main scene, if it is difficult to autofocus when shooting, you can only put the focus switch on the lens at the M (manual) position and shoot with manual focusing. At this time, the ** shot is basically clear, and there is also a **deficiency, indicating that the shooting of the 60d+18-135 combination is absolutely limited.

There are no specific settings, mainly to ensure that your shutter speed is at least a safe shutter speed Turn up the ISO (control it well so as not to affect the image quality) Turn up the aperture (pay attention to the depth of field and the blur of the background) Ensure that your camera is stable Night scene shooting, due to the long time after pressing the shutter, the camera needs to be more stable.

Hello! "Shooting night scenes" is mainly difficult to focus. If the focus is not accurate, the imaging effect will be greatly reduced.

In addition to using night mode, turning on the flash, and turning on the focus assist light, you can also take the following measures to improve the success rate of focusing:

1. Increase the ISO value (e.g. to ISO, etc.).

The size of the ISO value is a measure of the sensitivity of a digital camera to light, and is usually expressed as an ISO value, with a higher value indicating greater light sensitivity and a smaller value indicating less light sensitivity.

When shooting indoors in low light or in night scenes, using a high ISO value can greatly increase the success rate of focusing. However, the noise of ** will also increase accordingly.

2. If the ambient light source is dim, you can increase the ** value (such as adjusting to 1EV, 2EV) to highlight the clarity of the picture.

In the process of shooting with a digital camera, if you press the half-shutter, the LCD screen will display a similar ** as the final rendering**, focusing, ** start together. At this time, it is the final.

**If it is obviously brighter or darker, it means that the camera's automatic metering accuracy has a large deviation, and it is mandatory to compensate**, but sometimes, the brightness displayed during shooting is different from the actual shooting result.

Digital cameras can view the image immediately after shooting, and at this time, it is possible to see the brightness and darkness of the captured image more accurately, and there will be no discrepancies. If the result is significantly brighter or darker, it is necessary to re-shoot and force **compensation.

Also, pay attention to the operation of the camera to lock the focus:

When shooting, you should first press the shutter halfway, do not let go, and focus the lock frame in the viewfinder to the focus of the shooting (such as the face of the person), and wait for the lock lock frame in the viewfinder to turn small and green or the camera makes a "beep" sound, indicating that the focus has been locked, and then press the shutter completely.

When taking pictures, it is also necessary to ensure the stability of the holding machine, and the shaking of the fuselage will also cause ** out of focus and blurry.

There are no dead rules, set according to the effect you want. Generally speaking: if it is too dark at night, it is useless to shoot landscape focusing auxiliary lights, and the subject is very prominent, so focus directly, otherwise it is generally manual focusing, low ISO, and slow shutter speed on a tripod; If you're shooting portraits, you'll either have a flash or slow sync, or you'll have a high ISO.

with a tripod. ISO400, use a flashlight to focus, and focus on the person's face when focusing. Then turn off the flashlight.

It is best to use a 135 focal length. There is a good depth of field, so that the background bokeh halo of the night scene looks better.

There are a lot of things on the Internet.,The most important thing is that you must have a good stand.,If you have parameters,,You have to read the forum and add your own usual practice.。

1. Put it on the shelf.

2. Metering. 3. Appropriate ISO

4. Try more.

The macro head is more expensive, you can also do it with 18 135 for close-ups, adjust the camera to macro mode, choose a suitable distance, and do not exceed the minimum focusing distance of the lens, otherwise there will be blurry as you said.

First of all, my lens is an 18-55mm dog head. None of these lenses are designed to shoot macros, and if you get too close, you won't be able to see clearly. Generally, there will be a small flower-like icon on the lens, and then mark the distance, this distance is the distance between the object and the focal plane of the camera, that is, the safe distance, more than less than this distance will not be clear.

If you want to shoot macro specifically, you have to change the macro lens. I know that Canon has a "Baiwei" that is good, but I personally don't have much research on this aspect, so I don't know that the head is cost-effective.