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To shoot fireworks, first use manual focus, aperture f11, f15 use a ** time of 1-2 seconds (depending on the shape of the fireworks) or use a bulb (manually control ** time).
Press the shutter when the fireworks are in the air, release the shutter at the end, make sure that the shutter is sufficient, and you can try a few shots before shooting.
Remember to bring a tripod, a shutter release cable (remote control), a focal length lens of more than 100mm, and a wide-angle lens.
The specific effect is as follows, I hope you can make a good film.
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1.White balance with automatic is fine;
2.The aperture should be smaller, f8 or f11
Set the value to 400 or 600, and the maximum should not exceed 800
4.In terms of equipment, if you want to shoot fireworks in large scenes, you have to use a wide-angle lens, a tripod must have, and you can shoot fireworks with door B;
5.When shooting, put the camera on the tripod, set the parameters of the camera, turn on the camera's B (speed priority, adjust the speed to the b-bulb), take the scene of the camera lens, aim at the direction of the fireworks, press the shutter before the fireworks rise, after the fireworks bloom, release the shutter again, the time is about 2 seconds, if you want to have a few more fireworks in the picture, press the shutter for a little longer.
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M stop, 30 sec shutter, aperture and ISO combined to around -1EV, lens MF stop manually adjusted to infinity beforehand. In this way, the fireworks will be clearer and the background will be dark.
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It is possible to shoot for a long time** with a tripod.
If there is no tripod**, it will be weak, and the effect of long-term exposure is to make the fireworks shoot with a trajectory, not the kind of stars.
For a long time** is to extend the shutter speed.
Remember that 40D seems to have a fireworks mode in the mode dial, and you can pull it directly by adjusting it to that mode.
White balance can be set to auto or daylight, and the focus point is set to focus.
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White balance is automatic.
Manual**; With a smaller aperture, f8 does; At ISO100, the shutter speed is 1 2 seconds or 1 second, not too slow, otherwise the sky is too unsightly - at this time, it is a continuous dynamic effect. If you increase the ISO, you can use a faster shutter speed, but the dynamic effect is different, and you can use a faster shutter speed for each level of ISO.
The above ** combination is suitable for general hollow fireworks and fireworks, and the specific data is subject to change.
Using a tripod, pre-frame and manually prefocus on a predetermined area.
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I think you should read the manual.
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Manual mode, shutter three seconds, aperture eight, sensitivity of about 1,000.
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The key is the lens, to have a wide aperture, manual mode.
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First of all, use a tripod, shutter release line, speed in the B door normally open, it is best to find a piece of black cardboard or black cloth, at the moment when the fireworks burst, choose the appropriate time to quickly remove the black cloth, take it away once to cover it again. Wait for the next fireworks, it is best to arrange the composition in the picture first, and then use this method to repeat the exposure two or three times, and this film will be very beautiful! This is the easiest multi**!
It is also necessary to choose a good foreground and arrange fireworks in the appropriate places in the picture. If there is no black cloth, you can also put it on the B door, and every time the fireworks are exposed, you press the shutter! You can also shoot more fireworks, and keep them for later production materials!
The flash must not be turned on, and it is useless to shoot fireworks. ISO 100 should not exceed 200 - if you have any questions, please contact me!
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Open the tripod Turn off the optical image stabilization Upper door B Open the aperture between f13-f16, shoot with a firework **complete time**time, keep playing back to see**observe** effect, to adjust the shooting parameters, shoot in raw format to facilitate adjustment of the post-production** Turning on the flash is useless for shooting fireworks.
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1 upper tripod.
2. Observe the position of the fireworks after they are lifted into the air and determine the composition.
3 Manual focus is recommended, locking the focus position, or adjusting the focus to infinity.
4 Aperture f8 or higher, the lower the sensitivity, the better.
5 It is best to use bulb if you have bulb, you can choose M gear if you don't have bulb, and adjust the most suitable shutter and aperture for a few test shots.
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It will be the head of 18-55.
Shooting night scenes and fireworks requires a tripod, a small aperture (f10 or later), and a slow shutter speed (depending on the light source at the time).
If you have a shutter release line, shoot with the shutter release line, and if not, use a 2-second timer in live view mode to avoid small vibrations.
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You can shoot, if you shoot the scenery, it is recommended to use a wide-angle lens, if you are shooting night scenes, it is recommended to have a tripod, holding the camera in your hand is the most unreliable, **long time will shake the hand, out** will be blurred!
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Shoot like this in 40d? This ** is not good at shooting, there is too much black underneath, and it is a dead spot.
Standing on a high place, it is okay to shoot in bad light.
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It's not a big problem to get a tripod first and then adjust the mode.
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Hehe,First of all, the first thing to say is that Canon Pure Wisdom 40D does not support live view (LV),If you want to preview the effect before shooting,You can use the depth of field preview function。
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Press the button in the middle of the disc directly, but when you are in real time, you can only focus manually, which is not very convenient.
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40D does not support live view, impossible· Live view is a chicken rib for a DSLR camera, and even if there is, not many people will use it
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When shooting, press the "SET" button in the middle of the speed control dial to activate the live view mode, which is the reflector is raised, and the light directly enters the CMOS.
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You can set it at will in the menu settings, and the button in the middle of the turntable is generally sufficient.
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Unless you buy an Oba machine, Canon doesn't currently have a live view feature.
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40D 3-inch LCD screen.
If you want to talk about the characteristic features of the 40D, it is still the 3-inch LCD screen and the live view function.
The 3-inch LCD screen is the best part. At the time of the 30D debut, the inch felt quite large, and the 3-inch LCD screen this time was far beyond the impact. Needless to say, the playback is easy to understand, and the menu has become quite easy to understand, which is good news for users whose eyesight is fading after 40 generations.
At the same time, because the LCD screen is a wide-angle viewing angle type, the visibility from the oblique direction is also very high. If you are using live view for high angle and elevation photography, the width of that angle of view will be very convenient.
Live view settings in the menu.
Don't be upstairs, okay?
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If you are still just starting to use SLR, then for you 40d is a mountain that you can't climb over, let's use the automatic mode to shoot and play first, and you will have some experience after half a year.
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All DSLRs** should be virtual are to be processed by post-computer 40d is a good machine, but the lens is still the key, see more people shoot in 40d** Try to do it yourself Soon you will feel that you can shoot well.
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Many people say that only with good equipment can a good film be produced, but experts say that good ** comes from the "head" behind the machine, practice makes perfect, and technology is practiced.
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I think it, playing with a machine you should:1Familiarize yourself with it first, and be able to operate it proficiently!
2.Learn to draw and compose again.
3.Then use your cultivated eyes to catch wonderful, ordinary and meaningful moments!
4.In the end, you can produce a good **, at this time, no matter what machine you use, you can do it.
5.Also, now that it's the digital age, it's useful to learn a little bit about PS images. It's the icing on the cake!
It is best to use 100mm macro, thinking that the focusing distance of 17-85 and 17-40 is too far, not suitable for shooting such very small objects, unable to show details, and you need a small studio, 2 lights, on the **, a special lamp for shooting small objects, about a set of about 100, the reason for using it is because you can not let the object have extra shadows, better performance of details, and then you need a tripod, because the lens does not have an anti-shake function, you have to use a tripod to fix. We hope you are satisfied.
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