I just ran a Nikon D90 plus 18 300 heads, and the shooting is a little dark, what s going on?

18-300 ..Who recommended your head?

Canon generally has brighter colors than Nikon.

But a real nunhin doesn't like that kind of showy.

What they want is the feeling of n's real restoration.

The D90 is an entry-level cattle machine, except that the lens you have with is a bit of that. It's okay for beginners, but after a while, you will always be poisoned. When the time comes, there are many reasons why the head is black.

Speed. Aperture, shutter, metering**.

It is recommended to use normal sunshine at 10 a.m.

ISO adjusted to 100-200 A stops Aperture max (F-number min) 3D evaluative metering for metering **Compensated 0

Just take a look at it and it should be fine.

If you are a beginner, you can adjust it to auto mode, and most of the time you can set it up automatically, and all the values I just said are enjoyable.

**The amount is not enough, and the color of the SLR is biased towards the real one, and it is your problem to not get used to it.

Haven't heard that Nikon has a head of 18-300.

18 300 is a vice-factory, and it is a pity that you have wasted your money.

It's usually a setup issue.

**Insufficient is black, you can increase the aperture or extend** the time.

One way to do this is to use a fully automatic transmission machine that automatically configures you with a reasonable combination.

You should be able to see the good and the bad!!

If the color is wrong, it's probably a problem with the white balance setting.

Too dark or too bright is most likely a problem with compensation or metering mode selection.

It is recommended that the landlord find the reason from the above two aspects, do not easily doubt the ability of the machine in his hand, and start learning from the basics of photography, so as to experience the fun of photography.

Several possibilities.

1.There are gray or black particles on the lens, try cleaning them with an air blower.

2.If there is dust or dirt on the CCD, set it in the camera, turn on the computer to automatically clean the CMOS, and then take a picture to try. If it doesn't work, then blow it with an air blow to see if the black spots or particles will move, if they will move, it means that it is dust, and the problem is not big, if it does not move all the time, then it may be a CMOS bad spot, then it will be troublesome.

In the same way, if you clean the lens and shoot it again, and it doesn't move, then it may be a bad pixel and you have to take it to a Nikon repair point for repair.

If you try it in the A stop, if the wide aperture is not there and the small aperture (f16 up) is noticeable, then there is no doubt that there must be dirt on the image sensor. Then blow with something, don't wipe it yourself, so as not to scratch! If you can't blow it, take it to a regular maintenance station for cleaning, and spend a little more than 100 oceans It's much more cost-effective than scratching the CMOS.

Shanghai's Nahuanlong repair department cleaned 100 yuan.

Don't think about ps when taking pictures,**To take a good photo,Here you just need to compensate**,There is a button + - that is,You add**,You can take a few more photos,Until you see a good effect,Don't stop。

The effect of the shooting can be seen on the spot, but the reappearance of the later production is unnatural, and it is not okay to participate in excessive PS.

This button operation, you take a look at the ** compensation in the manual, such an expensive thing, to operate well, and read the manual more when you have time.

How to do this, in general:

1.The metering mode is well selected.

There are three types of metering, spot metering, key metering and 3D color matrix metering.

Accent metering refers to an average metering within the park circle, which is available in most cases. Mainly used for portraits.

Point metering refers to a point, where the point pair is measured, generally used for close-ups or still life sketches, and some people use it for portraits.

3D color matrix metering refers to an average metering of the entire frame, which is mostly used for shooting landscapes.

Metering modes need to be mastered flexibly.

2.If you are not satisfied with the correct selection of the metering mode, you can compensate with the ** mentioned above.

I wish you more works and happiness!

You can see that you are very good!

If it's a photo problem, the light and shadow magic hand is very simple, and you can increase the ** value.

If it's a problem with the camera settings, you can increase the ISO value, adjust the +-**value +, enlarge the aperture, and shoot with the slow speed (i.e., extend the ** time).

I also use Nikon cameras. **Copy to computer I use photshop color grading. The camera should be adjusted to the scene mode, which is not very easy to use.

To troubleshoot this issue, perform the following steps to troubleshoot ......

In different environments and different light conditions, take a few more shots**, and then compare and ......If half of the darkness only occurs occasionally, then it may have something to do with the shooting environment......

If there is half black in the ** shot under different conditions, it has nothing to do with the shooting environment, and it should be the fault of the camera itself......Specifically, it could be a failure of the shutter or reflector ......When the shutter is released, the reflector moves abnormally, or the shutter curtain opens abnormally ......Considering that the D90 is already a relatively old camera, this issue really needs to be seriously considered ......If necessary, you can take it to the after-sales service for a test ......

Also, there is a situation to consider, and that is the ...... case of using flashIf the flash is not high enough and is occluded, part of the screen may turn black. If you use external flash and it is out of sync with the shutter, some of the screen will turn black.

1. This is caused by the flash and the curtain shutter being out of sync. When the flash is on, the shutter speed needs to be less than 1 250 seconds for the flash sync speed to not be the case.

If you're using an on-camera pop-up flash, the camera will automatically adjust the shutter speed to less than 1 250 seconds when the light pops up, ensuring that no black bars appear.

If you are using an external flash or an external single-contact flash that is not compatible with a Nikon camera, the camera will not be able to automatically adjust the shutter speed. If the shutter speed is set higher than 1 250 seconds, black bars appear at the bottom of the frame.

2. If you are using a top-up pop-up flash, because the height of the lamp is limited, when a larger lens hood is installed on the lens, it will block part of the flash, causing arc-shaped shadows.

Your problem is basically a problem that all photography enthusiasts will experience, no matter how good the camera is, it will not restore what the human eye sees, but a good ** can indeed make people feel that the human eye can not observe, and there will be a certain contribution to the color post-production, such as simple magic hands, complex ps, etc., the key is light and composition.

About the aperture, shutter to give you a simple example, you can see the light as water, the aperture is the diameter of the water pipe, the shutter is the gate, in the case of a certain amount of water intake, we can adjust the diameter of the water pipe, we can also adjust the time when the gate is opened, but the effect is different.

Aperture: A wide aperture will have the effect of clear foreground and blurred background (, f2, etc.) This is the so-called shallow depth of field, which is suitable for shooting ** that needs to highlight the subject, such as people, etc.

The small aperture will have a clearer foreground and background (f8, f9, f11, etc.) suitable for shooting landscapes, and the imaging of any lens at the maximum and minimum aperture is not the best image, generally in the maximum aperture down 2-3 stops, and in good weather conditions, you can generally shoot sharp**.

Shutter: It is to control the length of time for light to enter the camera, the long time enters the light more, and vice versa, it is generally used in combination with the aperture, the aperture is large, the shutter is fast, and the aperture is small, the shutter is slow.

Generally, there are several situations: in the case of bad light, use a large aperture to increase the shutter speed, if the shutter speed is slow, the camera end is unstable, **will paste the same can also shoot sports**The kind of instant stagnation**, if you want to shoot the silky feeling of the waterfall, you have to use a slower shutter speed, and during the day, you have to reduce the aperture to reduce the amount of light.

In the case of a certain aperture, the slower the shutter speed, the longer the time, the brighter it is, and finally the whole sheet will become a blank sheet of paper.

In general, the aperture affects the degree and depth of field, first of all, the depth of field is a very clear part of the focus before and after, the larger the aperture (the smaller the aperture number), the smaller the depth of field, the more prominent the subject, the concept of **degree is relatively simple, assuming that a ** needs 100 degrees, in iso100, when the aperture is reached, it takes 1 60 seconds, and the aperture is doubled, that is, when f4, use twice the shutter speed that is twice as slow, and 1 30 seconds can also get the same **degree as before. (Expand your knowledge: The whole aperture of the lens from large to small:

The difference between each level is doubled).

Answer supplementary question: under the same conditions, the longer the time, the greater the degree, the time is the shutter speed, the time is too short, it will be dark, that is, underexposed, too long will be dead white, that is, overexposed, you can adjust it to the manual transmission (M gear) by yourself, try it, keep the ISO and aperture unchanged, change the shutter time to take a few more shots and then compare, and then ensure that the shutter is unchanged, change the aperture size to test a few shots, I believe you will have a harvest.

If the shutter speed is too low, you must use a tripod, otherwise it will be blurry due to hand shaking)

If you can't control it, it's impossible.

The D90 is much better than the D3000.

Or buy D90, maybe you will use it for a few years, after all, this machine is good, if you don't play professionally so feverish, you can definitely play for a few years, I bought D90 last month

And I plan not to upgrade the fuselage for many years in the future, and it will cost money to burn the lens. So buy a mid-range machine D90

I bought the fuselage of parallel goods, and then spent 300 to buy a second-hand 18-55 to get started, and when I was familiar with the focal length I liked, I didn't hesitate to go out or be idle, anyway, it's not a pity to be only 300.

There is also a cost-effective 50, which I think I will use for a long, long time if I don't get rich overnight.

That's right, I forgot to say, 18-55 that broken head, there's no need to buy any anti-shake, it's no problem in general, I'm just using him anyway, so I'm looking for a cheap one without anti-shake. It's definitely not going to keep a break of 18-55 all the time.

Read the manual for the procedure and understand the main buttons and menus of the machine. The second is to join Nikon Photography***, there will be many masters to help you - Nikon Realm - Photography *** - 73075182

Whether the grass is green or not depends on whether it is actually green. The colors of Nikon cameras are already very saturated, and there are many situations that make me feel saturated, and you still feel that the grass is not green enough.

The sunset is not beautiful enough, most likely because you shoot too early. Wait until the sun sets into the clouds before shooting, don't be afraid of the dark.

**There are more cases of not being sharp, maybe your lens is not sharp enough, maybe your shooting is not in good focus, or not well controlled. Or simply your demand for sharpness is beyond what can normally be performed.

The knowledge of aperture and shutter is more complicated, you can look for the New York photography tutorial, just read the first volume.

Friend, tell you a good way, set the camera to automatic, press the shutter halfway to see the parameters given by the camera, shoot, if you are not satisfied, you can use other gears to adjust, such as M gear can be fully manual, after which you can adjust the shutter speed to faster or adjust the aperture (the value of f is larger), if you feel that the shot is dark, adjust it in turn, and after a period of accumulation, you can shoot a good film.

If the aperture is large, the amount of light will be larger, and the dark part can be recorded to the camera better when the light is low.

**Time is also related to light, in the darker time** the time is correspondingly longer, and the dark part will have no details when the time is short; Well-lit places should be correspondingly shorter, and they will be overexposed for a long time.

Time can be understood as shutter control time.

It is recommended to read more manuals, there are a lot of skills in it, as well as online photography forums, many masters have high skills, so that progress is faster.