There is a copper bar on the top and bottom of the distribution box, can I use one of them for the f

No, the distribution box fire wire is on the top, the zero wire is on the bottom, and the socket is the left zero (n) and the right fire (l).

1) Fixed panel type switch cabinet, often called switch board or power distribution panel. It is a kind of open switchgear with panel covering, the front has a protective effect, the back and side can still touch the live part, the protection level is low, and it can only be used in industrial and mining enterprises with low requirements for power supply continuity and reliability, and is used for centralized power supply in the substation. (2) Protective (i.e., enclosed) switchgear refers to a kind of low-voltage switchgear that is enclosed on all sides except for the installation surface.

The electrical components of the cabinet, such as switching, protection and monitoring control, are housed in a closed enclosure made of steel or insulating material, which can be reliably mounted on or off the wall. Each circuit in the cabinet can be isolated without isolation measures, or it can be isolated by grounded metal plates or insulating plates. Usually the door is mechanically interlocked with the main switch operation.

In addition, there are protective tabletop switchgear (i.e. consoles) with control, measurement, signal and other electrical appliances on the panel. Guarded switchgear is mainly used as a power distribution device at the process site.

If the neutral wire is connected to the PE terminal strip, the leakage switch will inevitably jump.

If it is not a switch with leakage protection, and the N copper strip terminals are well insulated, it should be fine.

One pair of short circuits will not affect the other switches.

It is advisable to find a professional electrician, after all, this is not a joke.

1. No, the two rows are dedicated to N and PE respectively;

2. The standard configuration of the distribution box should have another "comb" shaped busbar, which is embedded in the PVC insulation slot, which is dedicated to the upper end of the multi-circuit circuit breaker, eliminating the practice of "jumping" with wires;

3. You buy an 8-loop box for 23 yuan, which may be worse, if the box between 30 and 40, the merchant must provide a special bus (** included);

4. The line should be strictly distinguished by the specifications of L, N, and PE, and even if you don't have an accident now, it is inevitable that others will not have an accident in the future.

There is no live wire in the distribution box that is not a household.

The busbar means that all the distribution cabinets do not have a live busbar.

Zero busbar and ground busbar, because the incoming end in the distribution box is generally three-phase voltage, and three-phase electricity must be strictly separated. If the live wire bus is set up without connecting the equipment, the distribution box would have exploded a long time ago, and the main air opening and the air distribution are also connected by wires. Just wiring behind the insulation board of the distribution box.

The distribution box is to assemble the switchgear, measuring instruments, protective appliances and auxiliary equipment in a closed or semi-enclosed metal cabinet or on the screen according to the requirements of electrical wiring, forming a low-voltage distribution box. During normal operation, the circuit can be switched on or off with the help of manual or automatic switches. There are two types of distribution boxes commonly used: wooden and metal.

Hello:——The household distribution box is not installed with a busbar (there is a busbar on the protection zero line). The "parallel" wiring should be used between the main air opening and the split air opening. Please see the attached drawing.

Nowadays, many electricians are connected in series, and they only use 4mm 2 wires, which feels very non-standardized.

There is a special busbar for the live wire, but it is different from the busbar (copper bar) of the neutral line and ground wire. See Fig

The busbar is leaking outside, and if there is a fire line on it, it is very dangerous. The main space opening to the split space opening is connected in series. The main open exit is connected to the open entrance.

1. Total air opening: CHINT air switch + leakage circuit breaker 63A (household.

Generally, 40a is enough, if the electrical appliances are turned on a lot in summer, you can change to 63a, of course, it should also be decided according to the space of your own house).

2. Arrester: CHINT household arrester 15KA-2P

3. Kitchen lighting: 1P+N air switch + leakage protector 10A (10A-25A is generally OK for household use, we can choose 10A here, and the kitchen generally only has 1-2 ceiling lamps 10A is enough to deal with.) ）

Dining room and living room lighting: 1P+N air switch + leakage protector 20A (10A-20A is generally used in the dining room and living room, because the dining room and living room share an empty opening, and the living room is mostly used for general lights, so we are conservative and choose 16A-20A.) Decide according to the space of your own house).

Lighting in the master bedroom and second bedroom: 1P+N air switch + leakage protector 10A.

4. Kitchen socket: CHNT miniature circuit breaker household air switch NBE7LE-2P 32A.

Dining room, living room socket: CHINT miniature circuit breaker household air switch NBE7LE-2P 40A. (There are a lot of appliances in the living room, such as:

Cabinet air conditioner, air conditioner, mobile air conditioner, water dispenser, TV, etc. Decide according to the space of your own house).

Sockets for the master bedroom and the second bedroom: CHINT miniature circuit breaker Household air switch NBE7-LE 2P 25A (The master bedroom and the second bedroom share an empty opening, considering the hot weather in summer, the air conditioner is used very frequently, so we choose 25A-32A enough, because now many bedrooms are not very large, and the wall-mounted DC inverter air conditioner is generally used. Decide according to the space of your own house).

Note: Taking CHINT as an example, the series of household leakage protector + air switch are: 10A, 16A, 20A, 25A, 32A, 40A, 60A.

The household distribution box is the switch box after the household electric wire enters the home, before it was the knife switch and the fuse box, and now it is some air switch and leakage switch, which is usually installed behind the door or in the aisle.

First, the current potential safety hazards of household distribution boxes:

When the leakage protection switch itself has a problem, fails or does not have a protective effect, there is no warning, and it cannot automatically force the tripping power-off protection, and will continue to supply power.

There is no PE wire or power socket PE port or PE wire and other poor contact, unreliable, extremely unsafe, very dangerous, if leakage electric shock may not trip protection;

The leakage switch must be regularly pressed once a month to test the switch, I don't know if you have pressed, if you don't press, the leakage can be protected I don't know, the worst thing is that "the leakage switch self-test can trip does not mean that the leakage switch can be used safely", the leakage switch is broken, the failure is not protective There is no warning, and it is to continue to supply power, if the leakage is electrocuted, there is only a dead end, and even if the test switch is normal once a month, what should I do if the next 29 days are not even; Therefore, electrocution often occurs, and it is usually accompanied by sounds such as "how can a leakage protection switch be installed and a person will be electrocuted", "it can trip when the test switch is pressed, why is it not tripped" and so on.

Second, the role of household distribution box.

Whether it is the previous knife switch and fuse box, or the current air switch and leakage switch, they are all responsible for the safety of electricity, which is actually directly related to the safety of life and property; The second is to facilitate the maintenance of wires, lines and facilities behind the distribution box.

1. What specification of terminal box to use (that is, what you call the distribution box) has nothing to do with your total power, but has something to do with the number of circuits in your circuit, and then you have an air switch (referred to as air opening) and leakage protector (referred to as leakage protection) as for how much power you can use depends on the rated current of your inlet line. Generally, the empty opening of the bus and socket is equipped with leakage protection (or the empty opening with leakage protection).

2. The three phases of the socket are grounded on the left zero and the right phase, and there are 2 wiring rows on the terminal box, one is the zero row and one is the ground row, and the ground wire is connected to the ground row, and the ground row is connected to the ground row in the corridor meter box.

3. The air conditioner needs an independent wire, that is, this circuit is only used for the air conditioner and there are no other electrical appliances. 4 square refers to the cross-sectional area of the copper core. Generally, the lamphead line uses a square line; Sockets use square wires; Air conditioning uses a 4 square line.

4. The one on the wall you said is the trunking, which is used to install the bright wire, and now the dark line is generally not used at home.

5. The above said that you buy it back is just a terminal box, and the empty opening and leakage insurance inside are for you to buy again, and the quantity is determined according to your circuit. When you buy a terminal box, you just need to tell how many circuits you want.

6. This is a technical job, not an electrician, don't touch it, it's dangerous!! Remember!!

Distribution box pz30-15 bits.

Socket wire squared, single-phase three-wire system, (red phase wire, green neutral wire, yellow-green grounding protection wire) lighting wire general square, single-phase three-wire system, (red phase wire, green zero wire) distribution box on the phase switch under the pile head, zero line has a summary of the binding post, grounding protection wire grounding bolts.

The square of the line refers to the diameter of the line.

The hang-up with a square wire alone can be put on the line, and the kitchen socket is best to install a few more.

The kind of long, thin white box with wires on the wall is called a plastic trough board.

The household distribution box is equipped with a bipolar leakage protection switch, and the switch is installed to each line, which needs to be done by an electrician, which belongs to strong electricity and wants to die.

Configure distribution box 1 for home use. Take the small distribution box as an example, the first switch after the mains power enters the home is the main switch, it is recommended to use the isolation switch or the switch with overcurrent protection function, both can be, but the rated current carrying capacity should be as large as possible, you can calculate the current size of the future application according to the number of electrical appliances in your home, and the current size of the future application is simply calculated, and the general family is basically enough for about 40A. 2。

Under the main switch, it is necessary to separate many branches, and now one of them is lighting, it is recommended to use a single-pole or single-pole NA overcurrent protection switch, which is economical and safe, and all lighting circuits in the whole house must be controlled by it (C10 C16 is basically enough). 3。Socket circuit 1 (kitchen), the meaning is like the title, that is, all the circuits in the kitchen after the parallel connection of the sockets must be controlled by the leakage protection switch (C20 or so is enough).

4。Socket circuit 2 (bathroom), the meaning is like the title, that is, all the sockets in the bathroom after the circuit is connected in parallel, should be controlled by this leakage protection switch (C16). 5。

Socket circuit 3 (other rooms), the meaning is like the title, that is, all sockets except for the bathroom and kitchen are connected in parallel, and they must be controlled by this leakage protection switch (C20). The above is a mid-range configuration, all socket circuits and power circuits should be at least square wires, lighting circuits considering the problem of wiring after the fact, it is recommended to use square wires. (What is recommended to you is the maximum load value of the rated current, and it is difficult to reach the peak in daily use, so the total switch does not need to be too big, about 40 is about the same).

Now I am eager to know how to configure such a grouped distribution box, how much capacity of air switch is appropriate, and there is space to open about 100 amperes. It is not necessary to put a leakage in each branch, and the socket must be used, and the lighting is used in total

This is a bit difficult for you, it is recommended that you hire an electrician to solve this problem, even if you buy back all the switches, you can't connect them well, there are too many problems involved.

This general incoming switch is 32A2P, separate the socket to choose the leakage switch, the lighting to choose the ordinary switch, the air conditioner to choose the power switch, generally 16A.

If the electrical box is installed in the open, when the distribution box is installed on the wall, it is fixed with open bolts, and for relatively small distribution boxes, you can bury the wooden bricks in the installation place first, and then fix the distribution box or distribution board.

If it is a concealed electrical box, it is a flush installation. When building the wall, remember to reserve holes, and then when burying the distribution box, the box and the wall should be filled with concrete to fix the box. When concealing the installation, there should be no gaps around the distribution box, and the surrounding of the panel should also be attached to the wall, and the part of the box in contact with the building should be coated with anticorrosive paint.

The DC, AC or power supply of different voltage levels in the distribution box must be clearly marked. When the wire leads out of the panel, the panel wire hole should be smooth, and the metal panel should have an insulating protective sleeve.

The installation position of the low-voltage distribution box should avoid direct sunlight, avoid splashing water, avoid moisture, and have ample operating space in front. The equipment in the cabinet should be cleaned regularly, the terminals should be checked, the switches and contactors should be checked to see if they are in good condition, whether there is overheating inside, and the sealing performance of the distribution cabinet should be checked regularly to prevent small animals from entering or condensing inside. For areas with a lot of humidity, it is necessary to equip with a tide repellent, dryer, etc.

It should be checked whether the installation position is firm and should not be deflected and shaken.

The power distribution device is generally composed of the main fuse box, the electric energy meter and the current transformer control switch, overload and short-circuit protection electrical appliances, etc., and the larger capacity is also equipped with an isolation switch.

Generally, the main fuse box is installed on the wall of the inlet pipe, and the current transformer, electric energy meter, control switch, short circuit and overload protection appliances are installed on the same distribution board, as shown in Figure 1-50.

Figure 1-50: Installing the switchboard.

a) Small capacity distribution board (b) Large capacity distribution board.