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1.Look at whether the seal of the box is unopened, Canon's seal has two layers, pay special attention to the half of the box, because the half of the box lid is not very obvious if it is torn.
2.The code on the fuselage should be consistent with the number on the box and warranty card.
3.Look at whether the sixth digit of the number is 1 or 2, these two batches of machines are leaky, as long as the sixth digit of the number is not 1 or 2, it is no problem.
4.After unpacking, see if there are traces of use in the bayonet and other places (SLR does not exist fakes, only the difference between Hong Kong (that is, parallel goods) and mainland licensed goods, the quality of these two machines is the same, but only in Hong Kong warranty, one in the mainland is a larger city warranty. Because 5D3 has just come out for a short time, I personally don't think there will be any problems with refurbished and second-hand or something).
5.Take a few test shots at start-up and take a look.
I also just bought 5D3 more than half a month ago, which is very good, and I wish you the fun of getting the machine as soon as possible to start shooting
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1 Pay attention to whether the box is unopened, especially pay attention to the following2 Pay attention to whether the contents are neatly packed when you open it3 Look at whether there are scratches on the interface between the lens and the body.
4 Turn on the test shooting, pay attention to the number of the file name.
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1. Check the body number, the number on the insurance card, and the number on the outer box, the three are the same.
2. Carefully check the Canon sealing sticker, which is disposable.
3. Set the time and language before starting the new machine.
4. Check whether the camera mount and metal contacts are brand new.
5. Go to the regular way to buy.
6. Test shooting to see whether the various functions are correct, the feel of the lens and the shutter sound, etc.
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1. See if the seal has been torn.
2. Whether the fuselage is worn, whether there is dust on the reflector, or even scratches, whether there are fingerprints on the LCD screen, if there is one of these, the machine is not wanted, change! The code on the bottom of the body and the outside of the box must be the same, and the number of shutters (special software is required) should be checked
3. See if there are dust settings scratches on the lens, install the lens and take a few random shots, see the effect, listen to whether the shutter sound is normal, cover the lens cover, adjust the lens to manual focus, take a picture of all black, see if there are dead pixels on the LCD screen, and then put it on the computer to see if there are white spots, which proves that the CCD and reflector are normal.
4, you can see it in the exit of the light and shadow magic hand.
5. Let's talk about it together.
6. The new machine index inspection of the DSLR camera CCD CMOS mainly depends on viewing the all-black ** and all-white ** taken by the camera, which is divided into two parts: naked eye detection and software detection. There are only two tools - our eyeballs, and a small software DeadPixelTest that is less than 200kb!
The thing we inspected was not a camera or a CCD or CMOS component, but a "black-out map" and a "whiteboard map" that we just captured!
1. The requirements for taking pictures of the all-black test chart are:
1. Block the lens with a tight lens cover or other objects, and never let it leak light.
2. The camera can be set to M mode, manual mode, shutter priority mode for shooting, and manual mode M is preferred.
3. It is very convenient to use a film barrel for machines without lens covers, but it must be ensured that there is no light leakage.
4. If the lens disables the "auto" AF, the camera disables the autofocus at the same time, otherwise the shutter will not be pressed!
5. The image format is set to the "maximum ** size", and multiple all-black ** photos are taken according to the following groups:( this detection group is very important, but ISO400 or above is already the limit value other than the manufacturer's CCD CMOS quality reference index).
7. The original packaging, unopened, no stains, mildew, no dust, fingerprints, scratches on the lens.
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There is a national consultation ** on the outer box.
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1. Whether you buy it in a second-hand store or trade it with a movie friend in person, you should be carefully selected, and if the conditions do not allow it, you would rather not buy it than make a hasty decision. There are a few things you should do when you get the shots:
Look at the color. Look closely at the lens to determine its fineness, so that you have a rough idea of how the lens will be used. The judging of the fineness is mainly based on the traces of use, the wear and loss of paint on the lens barrel, the corrosion of the aperture, the dust in the lens, and so on.
For example, you need to find the most used place on the lens to see the traces of use and look at the lens. The first is to see if the lenses have been removed, the second is to look at the dust and ash layer, the third is to look at mildew and coating, the fourth is to look at the white edges and the gluing of the lens, and the fifth is to look at the mechanical damage of the lens. Based on the above situation, determine whether the optical part of this lens is acceptable.
The first thing to see is whether the lens has been dismantled, which is very important, the more "high-end" it is, the more it cannot be dismantled.
Look at the aperture. This is probably the easiest of the used lenses. First of all, look at whether the blades are rusty, sticky, and deformed, then see whether the blades are loose, and finally adjust the aperture by hand to see if the accuracy of each gear is good, and whether the lag phenomenon is "exceeded".
Looking at the refurbishment, each item has been used, and its natural "aging" may be different in error, but there will be a "natural synchronization". This is also a bit like a person, it is impossible for an 80-year-old woman to be aged all over, but her hands are like an eighteen-year-old girl, which is abnormal. In the same way, no matter how you look at a lens, it is eighty percent new, but the lens is so perfect that you can't find even a small piece of dust in it, is that natural?
Listening to sound is mainly to listen to the shutter sound, aperture sound (including positioning sound). Of course, it is necessary to take the lens in your hand and gently squeeze it, the normal lens will have a little "loose" sound, don't be careful, but there can be no "loose" sound, that is a problematic sound.
The feeling of touch is mainly to find the damping of various moving parts, to see if it is normal, smooth, the lens of normal conditions is generally more comfortable to move (including domestic lenses), if you find that there is an abnormality, you should figure out the situation. In addition, sometimes the deformation that you can't see with your eyes can also be "touched" by "touching", and there are ......Forget it, if it's okay to take a lens and touch it more, it's better than anything I say.
Finally, take a look at the accessories of the lens, such as whether there is an original box, manual, original leather bucket, hood, tripod ring or something, if the accessories are complete, then even if it is slightly expensive, it is still worth choosing.
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1 It is impossible to get all fakes, but be careful to return the goods or patchwork them!!
1.The quality of the color is important, but it is more important to pay attention to the uniformity of the overall color, for example, the back is very new, and there is a piece of the side that is very old. If you carefully find that the screw has opening marks, you should pay attention.
2.Mechanical failure. Whether the buttons are normal, whether the shutter sound is abnormal, and whether the reflector pops up or something.
3.Test shoot to verify image quality.
4.Whether the accessories are complete and whether they are original.
It is full-frame, the shell is metal, the reflector is large, and the CMOS is very large, and some other features to pay attention to!
I hope I can help you and make a beautiful blockbuster, and I will also fiddle with the shooting.
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SLR cameras are relatively high-tech and there are no fakes.
However, there are refurbished machines You buy a second-hand machine to look at the color of whether there is any damage to the metering, color reproduction, white balance and the like, there is no problem with the number of shutters, the mechanical shutter has a life, although it is broken for a few hundred dollars, you can change it to a new one, but it is better to ask clearly, check carefully.
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There are no fakes in used 5D, but there may be hidden dangers. Familiarizing yourself with all the features of 5D before buying and trying them all before buying is the best way to prevent you from buying hidden products. Buying second-hand goods is always risky for buyers who are not very savvy.
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Check the invoice and measure the number of shutters. It's best to find a knowledgeable friend to check it.
Sometimes the sensitivity is too high, just set it to 100.
It is advisable not to make a move.
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