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One of the characteristics of the loach is its ability to abscond. Due to its small size, it can get out as long as there is a small gap. If there is a hole in the pond, the loaches can even escape in a day.
Therefore, when building ponds for loaches, this point needs to be paid special attention.
One is to treat the bottom of the pond. After the excavator digs out the pond, the bottom of the pond must be tamped solidly.
The second is to deal with the edge of the pond. Dig near along the edge of the pond.
1 meter deep trench, and then spread the strong nylon mesh from the bottom of the trench to the ground, and the interface of the nylon mesh must also be tightly connected. After spreading the nylon mesh along the edge of the pond, the nylon mesh is compacted with the excavated soil so that the nylon mesh is connected to the pond. The upper end of the nylon mesh is fixed with wooden stakes every 1 meter or so to ensure that the nylon mesh is not blown open by the wind.
The third is to treat the inlet and outlet of the pond. Because the cost of PVC pipes is relatively cheap, farms can consider using PVC pipes as the inlet pipe of the pond, one end of which comes from the water lifting equipment at the side of the reservoir, and the other end directly leads to one side of the pond.
The outlet of the pond needs to be carefully designed, and we want the water to be discharged is the bottom water of the pond, and the bottom water of the pond is polluted by loach feces and the remaining feed, so the water quality is poor. At one end of the pond is a PVC pipe, and the other end is outside the pond. One end is in the pool, with an elbow that can be connected to a vertical pipe that is 40 cm higher than the water level in the pool, and a ring of anti-escape nets is set up with wooden piles outside the pipe.
When draining, lift the vertical pipe in the pond to drain the bottom water with poor water quality.
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I think how to build a loach pond in the spring next year, how much does it cost to build a pond, does anyone know.
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OK.
Loach farms should choose places with convenient transportation and certain water source conditions, and it is better to be close to rivers and streams, and it is also possible to use groundwater. The pond area will not be flooded during the high water season, the pond is relatively empty, and it is best to have no deciduous trees around the pond to ensure lighting, and no leaves fall into the pond to cause pollution.
Loach ponds are similar to fish ponds, so if there is an existing pond, it can be used with a little protection, and if there is no ready-made pond, it needs to be rebuilt.
The loach is very active, very flexible, and good at escaping, so in the process of breeding loaches, it is necessary to do a good job in the management and preparation of loach escape, and in the water inlet and drainage, as well as the water volume control, we must carry out detailed observation and strengthen management.
In the summer rainy season, do a good job of water control, do a good job of drainage, water mesh to prevent escape, drainage and water inlet diagonal setting, you can do some plastic simple fence around the farm, to prevent loach natural enemies, snakes, rats, etc. from invading and stealing food.
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OK. Pond loach, generally choose cement pond or triple soil pond, pond depth 70 100 cm, water depth 50 60 cm, the bottom of the pond spread 15 20 cm thick fat mud, the area of the pond can be large or small, with 2 3 acres as well.
The pond should be easy to drain and irrigate, and the inlets and outlets should be fenced with barbed wire. The pond should be cleaned and disinfected before stocking, and the method and dosage should be the same as that of the fry pond. If conditions permit, fish collection pits can be set up near the pond** and drainage outlets to facilitate future fishing.
Before loach seedlings enter the pond, fertilizer should also be applied to promote the proliferation of plankton in the water. After fertilizing 2 5 days, the loach seeds can be put into the pond.
30 50 kg per mu can be stocked, and the stocking amount can be increased if there are abundant water conditions. According to the water quality of the pond, some organic and inorganic fertilizers should be applied frequently to cultivate the water quality. In addition, a certain amount of artificial bait is also fed every day.
The types of bait fed include fly maggots, fish meal, pig blood meal, silkworm pupal powder, rice bran, wheat bran, vegetable cakes, etc. The amount of feed can vary depending on the season.
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The cultivation of loaches needs to pay attention to pond conditions, pond disinfection, loach seedling feeding, feed feeding, and water quality control.
1. Pond conditions.
At present, artificial breeding loaches are mostly cultivated in cement ponds, and the pond conditions require an area of 2 to 3 acres, with a water depth of 50 to 60 cm, and a thickness of 15 to 20 cm of fertile mud at the bottom of the pond. Moreover, environmental factors such as drainage and irrigation, transportation, sunlight, and water quality should be considered in the selection of pond sites.
2. Disinfection of clear ponds.
Some grasses (such as ryegrass, reeds, etc.) can be planted around the pond at a position of about 1 cm from the shore for shade, which is also good for water quality cultivation. Before the seedlings are planted in the pond, the whole pond is sprinkled with quicklime (150kg per mu) for pond disinfection, and when the pond water is green, the seedlings can be put in.
3. Loach seedlings are put in.
Under normal circumstances, the stocking density of loach seedlings is 800 to 1000, and the micro-flowing conditions can be appropriately increased. Note that loach seedlings of the same batch of hatching specifications should be stocked in the same pond to ensure balanced growth of seedlings and improve survival rate.
4. Feed feeding.
The loach seedlings that have just been put in the pond only need to be fed with some easily digestible concentrate feed such as cooked egg yolk, soybean flour, and soybean cake in moderation. When the seedlings grow to 1cm, they can already prey on small insects in the water body, and then they can be fed some cooked wheat flour, bran and minced fish, shrimp and other feeds, 3 to 4 times a day. In addition, in winter, when the water temperature is lower than 10, it is not necessary to feed, at this time, the depth of the pool water should be appropriately reduced, and the pool water can also be dried first and then spread a layer of straw at the bottom of the pool, so that the loaches can safely overwinter.
5. Water quality control.
When the loach species first enter the pool, the water depth of the pool is kept at 10 to 20 cm, and then with the growth of the loach species, the water level is gradually deepened to the due depth, usually shallower, and can be deepened when it is hot and high, and often inject new water to maintain a good water environment. If a loach is found swimming to the surface of the water to vomit air, it should be filled with new water or oxygenated measures should be taken in time.
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1. The choice of site The cement pond for raising loaches should be built in a quiet area with ventilation, sunshine, low terrain and convenient inlet and drainage. When choosing a site for building a pool, the following four factors should be considered: first, the site should be selected in the low and high places of high school; Second, the pool should be designed and built in a place without shade and walls to block the wind; Third, water sources should be abundant and free from industrial pollution and chemical pesticide pollution. Fourth, the pool should be built in a place where the environment is good, quiet, and free from noisy livestock and mechanical noise.
2. After the excavation site of the foundation is selected, according to different geographical conditions and different planning, the cement loach pond of rectangular and square village can be designed and constructed. The size of the pool can be as small as 10 square meters and as large as 40 to 50 square meters. Generally, a pond is built at one time, and two pools or multiple pools are jointly built, which can not only save investment, but also lay the foundation for the future feeding of loaches.
When digging the foundation to build the pond, it should be noted that the bottom of the pond should be lower than 1 meter below the surface, so that when the loach is cultivated in the future, the temperature in the mud layer at the bottom of the pond can be kept basically balanced, that is, the temperature difference is relatively stable, so as to facilitate the normal growth of the loach breeding period or the safe wintering when the person is stung.
3. The construction of small loach ponds When building cement loach ponds, cement mortar is generally used as walls. The wall is meters high. After the pool is built, the interior wall should be whitewashed so that it does not leak.
The bottom of the pool should also be leveled with cement. Meticulous construction should be carried out around the horizon to prevent water leakage after the pond is built. In the construction process of cement pool, two holes should be left, namely the water inlet hole and the drainage hole.
The water inlet is located at a height of 1 meter on the wall; The drainage hole is located at the height of the wall. The size of the hole can be flexibly determined according to the size of the pool. When building the drainage hole, a wine bottle can be stuffed into the hole from the inner wall outward, and when the cement is semi-solidified, the wine bottle is gently rotated and pulled out, so that the water outlet hole is a sharp bottle of wine bottle.
In the future, it is very convenient to use the wine bottle as a switch. If sometimes the water level outside the pool is higher than the water in the pool, a fort can be made at the outside end of the drainage hole. The fort is meters long and meters wide in meters high.
When the fort is built, a wine bottle is also stuffed in the fort, so that the tip of the wine bottle neck is opposite to the tip of the wine bottle in the inner hole, and when the cement is half solidified, pull out the wine bottle in the fort. In this way, whether there is a large amount of water in the pool or a large amount of water outside the pool, the pressure of the water will not squeeze out the bottle at the drain. If the wedge of the lid is leaking, you can stuff a little mud into the hole and then stuff it into the bottle, and you will find that the bottle is clogged without leaking.
4. After the cement pool is built, it should be wet frequently, and after a week, the cement will be completely solidified, and then the dealkalinization work can be carried out. After 5 7 days of dealkalizing, it can enter the soil.
Preferably half water and half mud.
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