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The Shimano cable pull ratio is different from the SRAM's, and the finger and rear derailleurs can only be used of the same type. However, SRAM also has shifters for Shimano cable ratios, but they are rarely seen and you can ignore them.
The front derailleur has nothing to do with the manufacturer, mixing and matching is generally possible, but there are models and speeds, the front derailleur up and down the pendulum has requirements for some frames, and chain line, there are also different front dupliceur requirements according to the width of different bottom brackets, and the front derailleur has a compatibility, which is determined by the number of teeth of the crankset. Some of the front derailleurs for DH do not have as many teeth as the front derailleur for XC.
There are short legs, medium legs and long legs in the case of rear dialing, and in mountainous areas, they are generally medium and long legs, and the number of teeth supported by short legs is relatively small, and they are generally used for small wheels or roads.
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In general, the Shimano finger dial can pull the SRAM front and back derailleur, while the SRAM has only one series dedicated to pulling the Shimano front and rear derailleur, and the others cannot.
The pressure plate can be mixed and matched Even if the road is in the mountains, as long as the front duplicator has a tooth tolerance range greater than or equal to the maximum piece of the pressure plate. The same goes for the rear derailleur and the flywheel, the rear derailleur is divided into three leg lengths, both of which have their tooth range, as long as the flywheel is within its tooth range.
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The crankset is also different, mainly the front derailleur. A 9-speed cassette is best suited to a 9-speed front derailleur.
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Go and ask the person who sold it.
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There is a principle for the front and back of the gears, which is to avoid cross-chain as much as possible. For example, the first 1 after 7, the first 3 after 1, etc., are mainly to protect the transmission performance of the chain, and there is nothing taboo about others.
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The 21-speed is too basic. 2-5 is fine, as long as it's not 2-7.
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In fact, it doesn't matter how you match it, there's no right one, it's just personal preference.
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For 2000 yuan, you can use the small suite of x9 plus pg990, and the chain can use cimano 93The front dial directly uses xt, because the SLX has to be the front dialer more chicken. The crankset uses Raceface's Evolve, which is cheaper than the XT and the mid-disc is stiffer than the XT.
The disc brake can be used directly with the E5. Just 300 yuan more.
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1. The transmission system is only two companies: Shimano and SRAM;
2. The crankset feels that Shimano is better than SRAM, especially the high-end crankset at the same price above Deore, and the devil is more cost-effective than the Yankee. But Flywheel personally feels that SRAM from PG970 and above is doing very well;
3. In terms of the shifting system, Shimano is now deore the above shadow rear derailleur, but it is not that the chain does not hit the frame, but the rear derailleur is hidden in the frame, which is not easy to bump, and the disadvantage is that the speed is a little slower than before when shifting, but the shimano shifting feel is delicate and accurate; SRAM's workmanship is rougher, very rough, but full of strength, especially the rear derailleur spring, the basic chain does not hit the frame, the shifting style is clean, neat, and there is no feeling of dragging mud and water;
4. The front dial is convenient SRAM and the cost performance is seriously not high, so it is recommended to use SHIMANO for the front dial; The chain is not too much;
5. To sum up, the following two kinds of mix-and-match can be adopted for different styles:
1) Front derailleur SLX, rear derailleur x9, crankset xt, chain PC991, flywheel PG990, finger dial x9
2) SLX in the kit.
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Rear dial XT M773 400 pieces Front dial M590 130 pieces Crankset M660 700 fast Finger dial XTM770 500 pieces.
If the weight of the main body of the building is not heavy, the chain can be a little worse. 400 + 130 + 700 + 500 = 1730 The remaining 270 landlords can use it to buy ice cream and eat it.
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Handlebar left derailleur: adjust the "frisbee" (pedal that flywheel), the back dial is the high gear, dial to the highest gear and want to dial to the small gear on the front of the left transmission on the handlebar right transmission transmission frame behind the flywheel, the shift is just the opposite of the left transmission (if the high gear is pressed by the front button), and finally the shift do not front high gear back high gear (big frisbee to big flywheel), low gear to low gear,
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These don't need to be so clear, according to their own habits, in fact, don't look at so many gears that can be changed, many professional players are not always tuned around, 80% of the time is to use a speed, only in special circumstances will be changed, what speed to use depends on your personal habits, such as when accelerating, it is best to have a larger gear behind, and the speed is fast.
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Actually, it's just about how you feel.
When you don't feel like you need any force, adjust the rear dial to make the gear lighter.
Or the front disc is lowered.
When you feel that the foot frequency is high, you can make the gear heavier, or turn the front disc higher.
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Landlord, I'll just tell you a few words, you can listen carefully.
One, you have to know that the front wheel is smaller, the more effortless and slower the speed, while the rear cassette is the bigger and slower the effort.
Second, the timing of the shift: when you feel a little struggling, you should reduce one to a lower speed, that is, the slow gear. Generally, only the rear can be changed, and only one gear can be changed at a time.
Third, avoid the situation that the front and back are the smallest, and the front and back are the largest.
Fourth, this thing relies on its own feelings. In short, you can't feel tired riding, that's right. Except for special terrain.
Fifth, the third point is to pay attention to it again.
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Generally, ** is kept in third gear, and the flywheel is kept below the fourth gear (8-stage cars generally use 4-8 gear). This will result in less deformation of the chain. When going uphill or uphill, the crankset is lowered to 2nd or 1st gear, and the flywheel needs to be adjusted up (up to 6 gears).
In short, you should choose the gear according to the road conditions and your physical strength, and make the shift to your own extreme.
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It's not broken, it's just that the front dial is crooked, and you only need to fix it from the new dial, and you can go to the car shop to repair it if you don't know how to operate.
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The fixing screws are not tightly in place, reinstall them, and then debug them.
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The fixed screws are loose, and the position is adjusted. Go to the car shop.
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The cleaning tool ** on the pile of not to go into detail, the finish line on the chain, preferably waxy, does not contain any grease and will not be contaminated with dust. However, after a period of use, the chain will turn black, which is just a surface phenomenon caused by wax rubbing, and it can return to normal by wiping it with a dry cloth.
Wet roller skating is the best, but it's a vacuum cleaner and can pick up dust and dirt. So don't use too much at once, like one drop per deduction is obviously too much. The dryness is between wet and waxy, the lubrication performance is not as good as the wet, and the antifouling ability is worse than that of wax.
Even if you forget about Yafushi, buying a sewing machine oil is not much worse than him.
There is no need to oil the front and rear derailleurs, and some Shimano dura-ace can be used at the spring of the rear dapple, many friends call this applesauce, and the Shimano rear dial is touched with this grease before leaving the factory.
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Maintenance methods for mountain bike chains, flywheels, cranksets, and front and rear derailleurs:
The maintenance interval for chains, flywheels and cranksets is to be cleaned every 300 km and lubricated every 100 km. The lubricant can choose professional bicycle chain oil or industrial gear lubricants, sewing machine oils, etc.
Cleaning can be done with a brush dipped in chain cleaner or kerosene to repeatedly brush the surface of the chain, flywheel and crankset, wipe the cleaning agent or kerosene with a soft cloth after brushing, and finally evenly apply lubricating oil on the surface of the chain, rotate the crankset to lubricate the surface of the flywheel and crankset respectively, wait for 10 minutes for the lubricating oil to flow to the inside of the chain and then wipe off the lubricating oil on the surface of the chain with a soft cloth.
The maintenance of the front and rear dials should be cleaned and lubricated every 3,000 kilometers, and wiped at least once a week. The cleaning method is the same as that of the chain. After cleaning, a small amount of lubricating oil can be dripped into each pivot pin of the front and rear derailleurs.
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When my car chain is dirty, I remove it and fill it with a pulsating bottle with gasoline, and shake it and shake it clean. The crankset flywheel or something is brushed with a small brush dipped in gasoline. I used the roof stone, and it was okay, a little sticky.
When the chain is oiled less, drop a drop from each buckle and take your time. We also have oil in the shop here. It's free
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Don't put too much oil on it, and put it on oil that doesn't have stickiness. This way it doesn't stick to the sand. Rip off the grassroots.
A decent climbing car is more expensive. The structure is relatively different, and riding on flat roads is not as comfortable as mountain bikes... Merida is still okay.
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