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The reason why the LED chandelier is slightly bright after the power is off is: induced current.
The reason for the induced current is that the dual-control switching circuit, the wires are long and the parallel phase wires are parallel.
There are high potential lines that remain high after a power outage. Solution: Add a bypass to drain the induced voltage that generates the induced current.
Bypass discharge method: parallel connection of electrodeless capacitor. You can also connect another lamp, or an energy-saving lamp.
Although a small current passes through the bypass capacitor, it is reactive power.
No power consumption will be generated.
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Two open one road and one open the other slightly bright, what's going on, such a situation should be a fault in the circuit, so there will be such a situation, it may be caused by the circuit is virtual, so you can check whether the installation of the circuit is reasonable.
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If you open the first road and the other road is small, I think it should be a road problem, because the road problem will affect this.
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In this case, it is very likely that the contact is poor, so you had better check the line chart and see if there is a problem, and briefly repair.
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The open switch, it looks like there is a line that is disconnected, you must ask the electrician to repair it for you.
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That is to say, if you can't do business, both businesses are good, and one is bad, so it's very simple.
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I think there should be a bad contact all the way, you just squeezed the switch.
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Liang Kai all the way to the other open slightly cool what's going on, two open, what are you talking about, what are you talking about two open all the way to open the open slightly cool, I don't quite either.
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Don't know what specific problem you're talking about.
It should be caused by the different resistance.
Or maybe the opening and closing force is not enough.
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Two open and one road and the other open is slightly bright, what's going on, what does this mean?
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If you open two ways and open the other, it is a small amount, they should be the problem of his light bulb, at this time you have to change the light bulb will be better.
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What's going on with the two openings and the other opening and the other slit being slightly bright, this also depends on his terrain and environment.
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What's going on with opening one way and opening another microdose? We don't know about these things, because we haven't paid attention to them.
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Two open roads, the other open faint bright, what's going on? This should be the wrong line contact.
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The drive for the ceiling light is broken.
Open the lampshade, remove the drive, and take it to change to the same model.
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The switch in one of them did not control the live wire.
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Obviously, it is current induction, the live wire in the switch of your LED spotlight is connected with the live wire of the other two switches, and the zero line is connected, if the LED spotlight switch is only the on/off of the zero line of the control, this induced current will be more obvious, and the LED will be slightly bright; If the control is the on-off of the live wire, the induced current will be very small, generally will not cause LED light, if it is still bright, two reasons: 1 is that there is a problem with the design of your LED spotlight power supply controller (this is more profound, I don't understand it very well, mainly when the zero live wire has an access circuit, that is, the switch only controls the on-off of one line, but the whole circuit is still disconnected) 2, it is the wiring of the other two ways in your house that is just with the line of the LED spotlight, Roughly in the same direction or side by side, winding, so that the induced current will be generated. Overall, it's because your LED spotlight controller is too simple.
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This shouldn't be possible, because no matter which lamp input voltage is generally 85V-220V, how can the voltage of just the circuit be lit, you take it apart to see if there is a wire behind the switch that is connected to the wrong one.
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It is important to know that the bright voltage of LEDs is only about 3V, and a little leakage or leakage may lead to a trace amount of lamps, but because the current is small, it will be very weak, so it is recommended to check the circuit.
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I think it's a problem with your circuit control, and the way to eliminate it is to take off the lights and try them one by one to see if they are normal or not, so that you can find the reason. I hope it can help you, I'm really beautiful lighting technology.
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The slight brightness of the zero line is the induced current, and the slight brightness of the indicator light is the fact that the live wire is not broken when the switch is turned off, and it is the broken zero line.
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Induced electricity.
The LED light is lit at a very low voltage, and the tiny induced electricity causes it to emit light.
The wires are routed side by side, and it is easy to generate induced currents.
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It is possible that the switch is wet, causing the power to pass through.
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The size of LED lamps with this phenomenon is caused by the unreasonable design of the power supply circuit. Because LED lamp beads are semiconductor components, as long as there is a very small induced current, the lamp beads will be triggered, so at the output end of the power supply circuit, even a very weak induced current is not allowed, so LED lamps and lanterns in this regard The design requirements of the power supply circuit are relatively high.
For LED lamps that have been formed, if this problem occurs, you can connect a resistor of about 150K in parallel on the filter capacitor at the output end of the power supply voltage (that is, the end of the power supply light board), and work it to solve it, you can try it.
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Maybe the switch is broken, try a new one.
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The switch must control the neutral line, and the control line needs to be changed.
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This is not something that can be achieved with physical control. The program has been burned to the chip, and there is no way to change it.
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Hello dear, happy to answer your questions! 1. Look at that kind of LED light, one comes with a segmented controller, and the other does not come with. All it takes is a switch.
Turn it on once, it's 1st gear, turn it off and turn it on and on it is 2nd gear, and turn it off and on again it's 3rd gear. 2. Three-tone light: three light colors can be adjusted, that is, positive white light, natural light, and warm light, that is to say, there are three fixed gears, and the wattage is fixed.
3. Stepless dimming: the brightness of the lamp can be adjusted at will from watts to the maximum wattage of the lamp, it is a gradient effect, there is no gear limit, free to master, what brightness you want, what brightness you want, the light color can be adjusted at will from white light to warm light, and you can feel free to your own comfortable color. 4. Three-color segmentation refers to the segmentation of the color of the light through the switch, without a remote control, and is controlled by a switch.
Press the switch once to change a light color, press the switch for the first time to turn on the white light, press the switch for the second time to turn on the neutral light (white light is 50% brighter + yellow light is 50%), and press the switch for the third time to light up the yellow light.
Questions. It doesn't matter if the order is adjusted or not, is there this kind of light, turn on half of it, and then turn on all of it, the LED light energy-saving lamp?
Three-color energy-saving lamps become three-color energy-saving lamps don't seem to save electricity, and they are fixed wattages every time, right?
Hold on. <>
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Two problems, either the light is broken, or the line contact is not good, and the power outage is taken apart to see if the screws are loose.
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First of all, check whether the switch is broken is the live wire, if the switch is broken is the neutral wire, this is it.
Circumstance. Changed to a fire breaker.
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