GUNPLA Choice!! About GUNPLA making!

MG is suitable for playing, pose is strong in action, has good details, and MG is almost completely color-separated, has a skeleton, and is quite mechanical.

TV is a large HG is generally not recommended to be a fast food product.

HG is more suitable for collection, and the UC series is generally better, some of the proportion is better than MG, and the body equipment is relatively complete.

RG is highly recommended, after all, there is a skeleton to be considered a Gundam, and RG's outer armor details are better than MG, understandable, and good.

It is recommended that if there is RG first, RG will make up for the rest.

Because you like small proportions, if you order 144, you can buy 144, otherwise the proportions will be messy and uncomfortable to look at.

Generally speaking, it is too expensive to sell physical stores, and the quality of several new HGs is very good, and the previous ones are not recommended with less money, and you can buy domestic ones.

1:100 has few parts, and the knuckles of the hand can't move, it's very difficult for your model to play a mess, if it's not a meteor, gp3 this kind of monster, it is recommended that 1:144 is better.

You've said you're leaning towards small proportions = =. 1:144 If you have love for the species, I recommend fate, with light wings, it seems that I also send a bracket, and the color separation is better Recommended Black Attack is also good!

The others have unicorn destruction forms, and the Zida that appears in the gravity front seems to have a good evaluation The Hazel series also looks very handsome Or you can also consider the RG series Now it seems that there are 4 recommended Char's special Zagu

First of all, let's start with MG, whether it is workmanship, details, color separation, motility, and reduction, there is nothing to say, and the price is relatively expensive, suitable for collection, after all, you get what you pay for; The color separation, detail, and articulation of the HG1 144 are relatively inferior to MG. However, compared with MG, the types of HG1 144 can be said to be varied, moderate, and the quality is even better than some MGs (very important!! There are many types of Gundam fans (UC series, beauty series, SEED series, and OO series) that meet the needs of all kinds of Gundam fans, and the recently released UC series and OO series are both good and worth buying.

If you really like the 1 144 class, and you can trust your own ability, you may want to consider the rg1 144 (with internal structure and small size). The above are all my insights from 10 years of model experience, I hope it will be helpful to you.

Note: If you are a prime-type group (no color, no color, no painting, no transformation), it is best not to start MG, otherwise it will be a waste of money.

Since it tends to be a small proportion, it is recommended that HG and RG have a one-piece skeleton structure, ** and it is not very expensive I, about 150.

It takes a lot of work to treat the nozzle in detail. First, the scissors leave a millimeter of water, and then the pen knife is flattened and then roughly sanded with sandpaper of no less than 800 gauge, and then continued to be polished with more than 1000 gauge. According to the effect, gradually increase the sandpaper size (the higher the sandpaper size, the more delicate the polishing), and finally use glasses cloth or cotton swab dipped in coarse sanding paste to finish.

Whether or not to use sanding paste is decided according to the effect, if you think the sandpaper has a good effect after sanding, you don't need sanding paste.

Coloring is a big deal, and there are many ways to do it with different effects. The most basic thing is to make up the color for small details, just use a marker. Of course, markers can only do this, don't use markers to paint models on a large scale.

Extensive coloring is mainly divided into pen application and spraying. Due to the complexity of the various techniques, there are various tutorials, so I will not go into details.

As the name suggests, the hook line is to use the pen to directly hook the ** slot. It is usually recommended to use a special pencil for oily drying quickly, but also to use a 2B pencil. Some automatic lead or fine grinding with a regular pencil can also be used.

Although the operation of the hook line is simple, the effect is not good, and the line is thicker and more rigid. Pencils don't have as rigid lines as oil-based pens because of their lighter colors. And you can modify it with an eraser at any time, the disadvantage is that some of the shallower trunks will fade due to frequent play.

The seepage line is to use paint + thinner to transfer out the seepage liquid, and then use a fine brush (commonly known as a face pen) to point on the ** groove, and use the fluidity of the liquid to automatically fill the paint with the line. Finally, use a cotton swab dipped in a small amount of thinner to wipe off the spilled paint. The paint is usually made of Tamiya lacquer, and the round bottle is water-based, and the square bottle is oil-based.

Use Tamiya X20 or genuine ZIPPO fire engine oil for oily dilution, X20A or medical alcohol for water-based dilution. The disadvantage of oiliness is that the improper ratio of thinner will lead to cracking of the plate, and the thinner itself is corrosive to plastics. Moreover, the toxicity of oil-based paint can hurt the body when used for a long time.

Recommend a way to save money and be safe, not to hurt the model, and not to hurt the body, is to use propylene + alcohol. Acrylic is very cheap, 5 yuan a can can last a long time, and alcohol is also 5 yuan a large bottle. The dilution ratio is roughly 1 part propylene:

After about 20 minutes, the paint is almost dry, and you can use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to wipe off the excess, and if you feel that the wipe is not clean, you can use an eraser. In addition, the seepage line is completed in the state of the plate, that is, the parts are cut out and assembled after the seepage line is completed. There is no requirement for hooking, but it is more convenient to hook after assembly.

There are also specific tutorials.

1.The most basic type of painting is a Gundam marker, and there are many colors that can be applied directly or by squeezing out the paint and applying it with a lacquer pen. Lacquer pens are also very useful, similar to those with thin yellow heads, and can also be used to wipe off dust, adjust the position of water stickers, and so on.

As for the enamel lacquer you mentioned, it's mainly used to bleed threads, right, and the excess can be washed off with a special solvent dipped in enamel paint with a lacquer pen. Basically, it is washed with solvents. But I personally don't recommend it, and I rarely use it, because it will make the plastic brittle and break easily.

2.The best I said above is of course the enamel lacquer, which is first carved out with a pencil and then immersed in the liquid throughout. However, it is also very effective if you use a Gundam marker (for the ink line), and there are two types: watery and oily.

You can try the effect separately, but you need to use a cotton swab stick to wipe off the excess first.

3.Thinners are usually melted into the paint and used with solvents, and professionals must use them, but unfortunately I don't seem to use them.

4.It's the lacquer pen mentioned above, which is divided into flat and pointed heads, of course, it's good to replace it with that kind of ordinary brush.

5.The lotion requires a special solvent for that pigment, and it seems that alcohol is also available, but I haven't tried it. Weathering just wipe that part of the surface clean, I washed it with a cotton swab stick dipped in alcohol.

It is best to spray a layer of matte transparent paint, which is to improve adhesion, so it is recommended to use nitro paint, if not, sandpaper sanding can also improve adhesion. The color of the weathering pigment is according to personal preference, and the matting agent can be added appropriately, in order not to make the pigment too shiny, so that the weathering effect is better, right?

I can probably think of so much, I also explored it step by step, and I can't see many of the completed effects without trying it. Happy making! (Purely original, piracy must be investigated!) ）

There are detailed tutorials on 78 anime, go check it out.

Since you are a novice, all domestic Gunpla models are excluded, because the domestic Gundam is not as good as the color separation, detail depiction, and the fit of the parts, and the domestic Gundam is only suitable for model friends who lack funds or have the ability to trim and transform, and it is difficult for novices to improve the degree of completion, and the domestic primitive group is relatively ugly.

If you are in Xin'anzhou, you can try Bandai's, the workmanship is very good, about 400 for MG, and about 155 for HG. If you are free, it is recommended to try RG, because RG uses a new skeleton, as a 1:144 scale model, its mobility exceeds MG, it is worth fighting, and** but, about 150, suitable for novices, it is also very good to look good only as a prime group, the only drawback is that there is no MG handsome in the posing display.

MG freedom didn't say, it's good, about 230, and it's also beautiful to do the prime group, but I personally prefer RG freedom.

F91 is recommended to buy mg, ** around 200, fine workmanship, very good vegetarian group, gp03, mg200, hg95 or so, I don't like it very much.

If you buy a Gundam or buy your favorite, if it's just a momentary impulse, you will feel unmotivated to put it together. If you have more money, you'd rather buy PG, although there are many parts, but it's not too difficult, and even if you do a prime group, it will be very, very handsome (because it's big).

In general, if I had to choose one of them, I would choose Liberty, but it's up to you to decide whether to choose MG or RG. It is not recommended to buy HG's.

The above Gundam **are all **on**, not in a physical store**.

Bandai Freedom Freedom is a seed artifact that is very awesome and the prime group has a good color.

Novices don't play RG.,The color of the high-tech Anzhou Su group is not good,There is basically no problem with the accessories of the dragon peach freedom, all kinds of pits,Pen knife repair,Fill the soil and fill the harmonious bullet hole,Bandai free wings are not linked,Waist weakness,There is nothing else to do,GP03S I personally think it's slag,Recommend MGF91 Good structure,It's also better-looking

Novices buy domestic products, don't feel distressed about dropping o

Recommend RG free, a simplified version of MG, more refined than HG, cheaper than MG, and some of the details are even inferior to MG. There is a partial skeleton.

This is not Gundam, this is the original mech from the Japanese srpg Super Robot Wars, and its name is Fierce Bird.

Isn't this the Akatsuki Strike Tyrant MK-II in OG2?