The ISO remains the same, and the optimal combination of shutter and aperture is

Simple, I'll tell you. The aperture changes from f8 to f11, which means that the amount of light is reduced by one stop, and accordingly, in order to ensure that the exposure is normal, you should slow down the shutter speed by one stop, which is 1 60s

You see, the shutter dial on the camera shows only the denominator, and the two adjacent sets of values differ by twice the amount of exposure; The number displayed in the aperture and the amount of adjacent exposure are basically one notch, but they are not fractional values. The smaller the number, the larger the aperture, e.g. twice the amount of exposure (double) greater than f2, twice the amount of exposure (quadruple) greater than that

To put it simply, controlling the amount of light exposure is like using a tap to drain water. Drain the same volume of water: the smaller the water valve (aperture), the longer the water will be released (shutter time).

Conversely, just like a lever, the larger the water valve (aperture) is opened, the shorter the water release time (shutter time). Can you understand?

This statement is false, and the empirical rule of estimation ** is:

Aperture: Intense sunlight f 16, thin cloud f 11, thick cloud f 8, cloudy f Shutter: reciprocal of ISO.

The above table applies to spring and autumn from 2 hours after sunrise to 2 hours before sunset, with the aperture reduced by 1 stop in summer and increased by 1 stop in winter. When estimating**, pay attention to more than less.

Inverted law: increase the aperture by one stop, and increase the shutter speed by one stop; Or the aperture is reduced by one stop, the shutter is slowed down by one stop, and the amount remains the same. If 1 125 f8 is accurate**, then 1 60 f 11 is also accurate.

Note that when the shutter speed is higher than 1 1000 seconds or lower than 1 second, the reciprocal rate fails, and the amount of ** needs to be increased appropriately.

In the case of indoor flash photography, the reciprocal rate fails The shutter speed is as long as it is any value at the highest synchronization (except for ultra-slow speed), which is meaningless.

It has little to do with this question.

At the same amount, if the aperture is reduced by one stop, the shutter will be increased by one stop.

In other words, if you reduce the aperture from f8 to f11, the shutter speed will increase from 1 125 seconds to 1 60 seconds

If you keep the ** amount the same: the shutter should be set to 1 60

The best combination of shutter and aperture is 1 125s and f8 ?? This is an exam question, right? If someone tells you that the best combination for a certain ISO is this, then you should immediately stay away from him, he has a bag in his head.

Looking at the standard aperture value sequence, f8 and f11 are just one level apart, then the aperture shrinks by one level, and the shutter needs to be slowed down by one level accordingly, 1 125 slows down one level, generally 1 60

80 is fine.

The aperture is one stop smaller, and the shutter speed is one or two stops slower.

The shutter should be 60

The values of aperture and shutter are inversely equal.

The f8 - f11 aperture is getting smaller and you want to keep the same effect.

Then the shutter speed will be slower step by step.

The 125 - 90 - 60 aperture and shutter combination are corresponding.

The calculation works by turning them the same number of squares in reverse!

The aperture is rotated a few times, and the shutter is reversed a few times, so that it is the same **, different combinations.

Please forgive me for being rude. Who put the fart of this "best combination"!?

The shutter and aperture values should be determined according to different equipment, different lighting environments, and the effect to be expressed.

The amount of light entering the aperture is halved with each stop, and the corresponding shutter time is doubled.

Don't be superstitious about what the "best combination" is, these things depend entirely on the environment.

The role of the aperture is to determine the amount of light entering the lens. With the shutter unchanged:

The smaller the value behind f, the larger the aperture, the more light intake, the brighter the picture, the narrower the focal plane, and the greater the bokeh of the subject's background;

The larger the value behind f, the smaller the aperture, the less light intake, the darker the picture, the wider the focal plane, and the clearer the front and back of the subject.

The main focus of taking photos of people is to focus on the demeanor of the characters, the foreground should be deep, the background should be simple and blurry, then it must be matched with the reflector to show the light of the character as the outline light, and the face and hair of the character show the outline line light, which will show the demeanor of the character more.

Usually take landscape photos and choose a depth of field.

In order to highlight the subject of the subject, choose a small depth of field, the larger the aperture, and the smaller the value.

Function: Adjust the amount of light entering the lens, for example: domestic kittens, the pupils are always retracted into a line during the day, and at night, they automatically open into a round hole.

In the same way, when taking a photo, if the light is strong, you should reduce the aperture, and if the light is dim, you should open the aperture wide. In other words, the smaller the f-number of the camera (other parameters remain the same), the better it is for night shooting.

Aperture is the most important factor in determining the size of depth of field, and the aperture is small (aperture value.

Large), depth of field, large aperture (small aperture value), shallow depth of field! For example: having myopia.

Friends, if they don't wear glasses, always habitually squint their eyes to see things, so that they can often see more clearly.

With the same ISO and the same light, the wider the aperture, the faster the shutter speed. With the same aperture, the higher the ISO, the faster the shutter speed.

The setting of aperture, shutter and ISO is said to have an equal amount of setting methods. ......But that's not really the point. ......The real key issue is that you have to be flexible to the actual situation in order to get accurate** results.

1. The shutter is to control the time, the aperture is to control the amount of light, and the sensitivity refers to the sensitivity to light.

2. Accuracy is the balance between the three, under the premise of accuracy, the least we need to consider is the sensitivity, generally we will ensure the safety of the shutter on the basis of combining the depth of field of the picture we want to shoot, and finally adjust the sensitivity ISO, generally adjust to one or two hundred and do not move.

3. If you want to shoot landscapes or capture people or objects in motion, there will generally be a shutter priority, and the time circle is automatic, and you can shoot the ideal effect by adjusting the shutter, such as instant freeze frame or drag, light painting, etc.

4. When shooting, the priority is the scene and effect, if you want to shoot portraits, you will generally use the aperture priority mode, at this time, the shutter is automatic, and the ideal effect is shot through the aperture, such as the background blur with a small depth of field.

The aperture indicates the size of the effective aperture of the camera lens, which is expressed by the f-number, and the larger the value, the smaller the inlet, and is increased by a series of numbers equal to the root number 2, because the aperture value is defined as inversely proportional to the diameter of the aperture, so every 2 times increase in the value indicates that the area of the aperture is reduced by half.

The shutter indicates the time to let the sensor **, which is normally the ** time.

is expressed as the reciprocal of , and is incremented in a series of numbers equal to 2, with higher values indicating shorter ** time.

ISO is light sensitivity.

There is no direct connection with the aperture shutter, and the colors with high sensitivity (ISO) are relatively bright (this is the intuitive feeling of looking), and the low ISO is relatively dark.

Aperture gear design

is the square root of the square root of the two adjacent stops.

The approximate value of the two adjacent stops, the diameter of the translucent aperture is 2 times different, the area of the translucent aperture is doubled, the brightness of the image formed on the negative is doubled, and the time required to maintain the same amount is doubled.

It is worth mentioning here that the smaller the f-number of the aperture and the larger the clear aperture, the more light will enter in the same unit time, and the amount of light entering the upper stage will be exactly twice as much as that of the next stage. For example, when the aperture is adjusted from f8 to , the amount of light entering is doubled, and we also say that the aperture is opened one step wider.

Aperture shutter ISO 3 elements refer to the details you need to pay attention to when shooting a complete **, these three points affect each other, the same light condition, the same sensitivity, the larger the aperture, the higher the shutter speed. The higher the aperture consistency, the faster the camera's shutter speed.

Aperture, shutter, and ISO (i.e., sensitivity) are the three elements of photography.

In order to shoot well, these three parameters must be set to the degree of accuracy. Otherwise, it is impossible to make a good film.

Shutter, aperture, and ISO are the three elements of photography in themselves. ......There's really nothing to explain this.

ISO, shutter speed, aperture, and compensation are all different devices of the camera control system. If we look at it as a whole, their adjustment principles are allocated according to the principles of the measurement and system

ISO: If you adjust it, you can use ISO100 in bright outdoor light during normal daytime, and you can use ISO200 ISO800 when the light gets darker, and you can increase the sensitivity and shutter speed if you don't use flash for indoor shooting. The sensitivity is not a fixed setting and can be set according to the specific light and darkness needs.

Shutter speed: The shutter adjustment is assigned according to the value given by the metering system with the aperture, under the same **, the larger the aperture, the faster the shutter speed, on the contrary, the smaller the aperture, the slower the shutter is required.

Mode

After we decide the shutter speed ourselves, the camera metering system automatically selects the appropriate aperture f-number (which can be a stepless f-number) according to the light conditions at that time. Digital cameras with ** mode dials usually have the letter 'S' engraved on the dial to represent the shutter pre-requisite mode. Shutter Prerequisite mode is suitable for photography where you need to control the shutter.

The high-speed shutter can be used to condense the action, and the slow shutter can be used to turn the moving vehicle into a beam of light.

As far as it is described, this is the most basic photography knowledge. Two of the three elements. It is recommended that you go through the camera manual and practice again, which is the fastest way to get acquainted. ISO is generally 100, and the aperture generally depends on your requirements. Large apertures and small apertures are fine.

I don't know how to continue asking, satisfied.

These three elements, the same point - can be adjusted to the brightness and darkness of **, the aperture is bright, the ISO is high, the shutter speed is slow and bright, and the opposite is dark. The difference is that the aperture can also adjust the depth of field, the depth of field of the small aperture is large, the depth of field of the large aperture is small, and the depth of field cannot be controlled by the ISO shutter, which is the difference between the aperture and the ISO shutter, ISO in addition to the light and dark adjustment also has a feature of reducing the image quality, and the image quality will be reduced when the ISO is high, so increasing the ISO is the last consideration in the three elements, and it is really not enough to improve the ISO, of course, there are individual artistic creations who want to sincerely want the kind of high noise and low image quality and improve the ISO is an exception. In addition to changing the shutter, one of the functions of the shutter is to set the length of the capture moment, the slow shutter speed gets a dynamic blurred target, and the fast shutter speed gets a frozen moment target.

The above are all the similarities and differences of the three elements.

The aperture indicates the size of the effective aperture of the camera lens, which is expressed by the f-number, and the larger the value, the smaller the aperture, and is increased in a series of numbers equal to the root number 2, because the aperture value is defined as inversely proportional to the diameter of the aperture, so every 2 times (times) increase in the value indicates that the area of the aperture is reduced by half. The aperture value is generally as follows: f32, f22, f16, f11, f8, f4, f2,, of course, now the camera is more fine, there is half or one-third of the aperture value in step increments, so in the middle of this group of aperture values will be subdivided!

In addition, the larger the intake (the smaller the value)**, the smaller the depth. That is, it is often said that the background is blurred to highlight the subject, which is why so many enthusiasts do not hesitate to spend huge sums of money to buy lenses with large apertures.

The shutter indicates the time of the sensor **, under normal circumstances, it is expressed as the reciprocal of the **time, and is increased in a series of numbers equal to 2, the larger the value, the shorter the **time, such as 1,, which means 1 second, 2 means seconds, and the shutter speed continues to go down the whole gear, 4, ,, 8, 16, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500, 1000, 2000, 4000. Of course, there are also those that increase by one-third. The faster the shutter speed, the easier it is to freeze the action, so when shooting dynamic things, it is generally necessary to increase the shutter speed, that is, increase the value.

The sensitivity refers to the sensitivity of the CMOS sensor to light, which is increased by 2 times, and the higher the sensitivity, the more sensitive it is to light. The whole level is generally increased as follows: 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400 ......However, when the sensitivity to effective light increases, the image sensor will also be sensitive to some dark currents, which will be reflected in the noise on the picture, so the picture will become rougher and less delicate when the sensitivity is high.

In the case of low light, it is necessary to increase the ISO appropriately in order to be normal**. However, if light permits, use as low an ISO as possible to ensure image quality.

Specifically, I generally use the aperture priority mode: the so-called aperture priority is that the user defines the size of the aperture when the sensitivity is set. Then the camera automatically metering according to the scene to calculate the required shutter speed, automatically set the shutter, just like the faucet mentioned above, you set the size of the faucet, the faucet according to the volume of the bucket to know the required time, when the time automatically turns off the faucet (equivalent to the light of the camera shooting scene).

If you want to accentuate the subject's bokeh background, you need to make the aperture wider (the value smaller). This is useful for good portraits, and if you want the entire scene to be sharp, turn the aperture down, such as when you're shooting a landscape, and you generally need the foreground and background to be within acceptable sharpness.

I don't know if you understand that.