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It's not water, it's the culture fluid, or nutrient solution.
How to convert soil-grown flowers into hydroponic flowers.
Here's how:
1. Seedling planting.
Depotting: Tap the perimeter of the pot with your hand to remove the whole plant from the pot when the soil is loosened. To remove the soil, gently remove the excess soil by hand (you can rinse it directly with water).
Water washing: Soil or substrate stuck to the roots is rinsed with water. Cutting and planting baskets:
If the head of the plant is too large and the aperture of the planting basket is too small, the hole of the planting basket needs to be enlarged to facilitate planting. Add nutrient solution: Add the prepared nutrient solution to the container.
Seedling planting: Insert the root system of the plant from the planting basket and be careful to hurt the roots. Fixed:
Fix with sponge, granite or rain stone (other solids will also work). Finished product: Check whether the finished product is fixed.
2. Seedling planting.
The planting of small seedlings is much simpler than that of large seedlings, and the main steps are as follows: potted seedlings: small seedlings are generally not more than 8 cm.
Seedling root washing: Take the seedlings out of the pot directly, and wash the roots in water, taking care not to hurt the roots. Seedling planting:
Insert the root system directly from the hole in the planting basket and fix it with a stone.
3. Blending of nutrient solution.
Users can purchase and formulate according to the formula provided in this article at the chemical reagent store. At the same time, it can also use urea and other fertilizers for preparation research according to the local fertilizer source situation, and then use it in production after gaining experience, and the preparation principle of other fertilizers is to control the total concentration.
4 Diagnosis of nutrient solution deficiency.
In the hydroponic flower technology of flower plants, if there is a lack of certain nutrients, it will produce physiological disorders, affect growth, development and flowering, and even lead to death. Therefore, it is necessary to adjust the nutrient content of the nutrient solution in time.
Nitrogen deficiency: Plants grow slowly, the leaves are yellow, and the leaves fall off severely.
Phosphorus deficiency: often abnormally dark green, sometimes gray or purple, delayed maturation.
Potassium deficiency: dicot leaves are slightly lacking in green at first, and then scattered dark necrotic spots appear; In monocots, the apical and marginal cells of the leaf first die and then expand downward.
Calcium deficiency: significantly inhibits bud development and causes root tip necrosis, the plant is dwarfed and has dark wrinkled leaves.
Magnesium deficiency: green deficiency occurs first between the veins of old leaves, late flowering, light spots, then whitening, and finally brown.
Iron deficiency: There is obvious green deficiency between the leaf veins, and in severe cases, it becomes burning, similar to magnesium deficiency, except that it usually occurs on the more tender leaves.
Chlorine deficiency: The leaves wilt first, then become chlorine deficient or necrotic, and finally turn bronze.
Boron deficiency: It can cause physiological disorders and manifest various symptoms, but most of them are the death of the apical meristems of stems and roots.
In the case of the above-mentioned nutritional deficiencies, they should also be carefully investigated. Because some are not necessarily caused by nutritional deficiencies, they may be caused by improper pH, and some are caused by a lack of several elements at the same time. Be sure to figure out the situation and prescribe the right medicine.
Maybe this will help you.
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If you can't put it directly, you will die if you put it directly. It must be domesticated first, planted in peat with strong water retention capacity, at first, with less watering, then slowly increase the water content in the substrate for two months, and then planted in the nutrient solution.
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Let's separate a green basket from the soil and shake it clean.
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How to move pothos from hydroponics to soil: x0d x0a 1. Prepare flower soil, fine sand, and flower pots, mix flower soil and fine sand one to one, and set aside. Loose, slightly acidic or neutral sandy loam soil is best.
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It can be pruned and planted directly in loose sandy loam soil, and the aerial roots are very good to survive. The survival rate of slipping and replanting back into the soil from the water is very low, and it is easy to rot roots. Do not fertilize after planting, and then use thin fertilizer after the new leaves germinate.
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1. Prepare the water that has been sunburned.
2. Depot the pothos, shake off the planting soil from the branches, and rinse the planting soil attached to the root system with water.
3. Put the rinsed pothos into the tray of the hydroponic container, and then put it in the hydroponic container. Add the sun-dried water and you're done.
4. Note: Each step should be operated gently, so as not to hurt the old and root system next to the lead, and the germs will take advantage of the weakness to enter, causing root rot. Change the water frequently at the beginning, and wait for the new roots to grow up to about a week to change the water, and pay attention to the best use of sun-dried water when changing the water.
Also: Do not add nutrient solution until the new roots have grown.
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When washing the roots, it is necessary to remove some rotten roots, feast liquid and pay attention to changing the water.
In the early stage, the water can be changed frequently, and the water can be changed once in 7 to 10 days after the new roots grow in the later stage.
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You don't need to add anything, you can change the water regularly (you can change the water once every two weeks), and keep it in a place with bright scattered light, and you can't see direct sunlight.
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OK. Pothos can not only be hydroponic, but also soil and green.
The dill will grow faster, and the method of hydroponic pothos to soil cultivation is as follows:
1. Trim the roots and dry.
The root system of hydroponic pothos is relatively weak, so when we transplant it, we first prune the roots to remove the aging and rotten root system, and then find a cool and ventilated place to dry it.
2. Prepare potting soil.
Choose a good pot soil, the size of the pot should be about the same size as pothos, the soil should be sandy loam, air permeability and water permeability should be strong, and the pH value of the soil should be acidic, which is conducive to the growth of pothos after that.
3. Transplanting and watering.
When transplanting, there is no need to squeeze the soil and the root system together, which will make the roots breathless, and after transplanting, you can water, the first watering is thorough, and then put it in a ventilated place to maintain, do not fertilize within a month.
4. Remove pests and diseases.
After successful transplanting, you need to pay attention to the growth of pothos, during this time there may be insect pests and various diseases, if necessary, you can use pesticides, and when this dangerous period has passed, it means that pothos has begun to adapt to the growth of soil culture.
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Pothos has been in a hydroponic state for a long time, its root system has been fully adapted to life in water, the root hairs are degraded, and the root quality is brittle. After taking it out, wash it with water, put it in a cool position, and put it on the pot after half an hour, and the purpose of a little drying is to make the root system moderately soft and not easy to break when potting.
Secondly, in terms of soil, loose and breathable humus should be selected, mixed with about 1 4-1 3 pure sand, and it is very good to mix a little fungicide in the soil. When potting, pay attention not to press the center of the soil hard, squat on the ground and water thoroughly, and then place it in a ventilated and semi-shady environment to cultivate, no need to fertilize within one month, and the plant can enter normal maintenance after resuming growth.
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Of course, it can be better raised in the soil.
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