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My car uses an XT big case, and you said this happened twice. Once I walked more than 10 kilometers of dirt road, I found that the car vibrated badly, and once I rode over a small stream, and the height of the water was higher than the transmission and the bottom bracket. After crossing the river, when riding, all riders could hear the sound of my car snapping.
When riding by yourself, you don't need to listen to the sound, and the vibration is obvious. After other friends rode on the test car, they directly affirmed that there was a problem with the bottom bracket of your car. After crossing the dirt road for the first time, I washed the chain with kerosene and applied the chain oil, and the symptoms disappeared.
The second time I took the bike to the bicycle shop (my kit is licensed and under warranty) and after the car was tested, I applied the chain oil directly. The symptoms are gone again. You have to trust the quality of the XT level kit.
But with a ten-speed shift, the chain is very thin, and it usually needs more maintenance, and the chain and crankset must be washed in about a week. If the central axis is as you say, it may be flooded. But I rushed through my car with a water cannon for car washing (which is not good online) and didn't get into the water.
You should try to look for problems on the chain.
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Follow these methods to check the bottom bracket:
Hold the left and right cranks in each hand and shake them left and right to observe whether there is any space (bearing damage).
Take the crank in a horizontal position, hold the left and right cranks with both hands and exert force up and down, observe whether there is noise, and rotate the crank 180 degrees to repeat (center shaft).
Take the crank in a horizontal position, pinch the brake, press the pedal hard to observe whether there is any noise, and rotate the crank 180 degrees and repeat once (the connection between the crank and the bottom bracket, the platter fixing screw or pedal).
Change to another crankset and repeat the previous action.
If there is no problem with the bottom bracket, apply grease to the bottom bracket thread, bottom bracket spline, pedal mounting thread, and crank fixing screw, tighten the disc fixing screw according to the specified strength, and reinstall it according to the requirements of the manual.
Although the ** of the stepping noise intuitively and audibly is not the crankset or the bottom bracket, there are many times when it is not necessarily them, if the noise cannot be reproduced after checking it according to the above steps, or the problem cannot be solved after re-lubrication and installation, then it is likely that the noise ** is another part, and the pedal is also easy to cause this problem
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Here are my problems and solutions.
The possibility of the central axis ringing is very small, my previous two rings are the problem of the pedal, first the right step, in the upper half of the garden fixed position to think about it, then the left step, a left and a right I all disassemble and clean up, re-butter after the sound is not sound. Later, there was a hub card, and when it was slow, it drove the chain to turn, so that sometimes it was empty, and the store said that it was flooded, and it was replaced by one, and recently it began to ring again, and this has not been solved yet. You can take your pedals apart and clean them up and see how it works
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The pedal needs to be maintained, yours is probably the bearing pedal, disassemble it to see if the ball is abnormal, and then re-oil and reinstall it. Note that the oil must be viscous.
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Summary. Rear axle combination bearing clearance is excessive or damaged. First loosen the rear axle nut with a wrench, tighten the rear axle block with a wrench, hold the wheel horizontally with your hand and shake it without clearance, and tighten the rear axle nut.
The rear axle or quick release is loose, causing the entire wheel set to shake. The solution can be solved by tightening the rear axle locking screw or quick-release lever. Bearing damage in the rear wheel block, causing wobble.
Solution: Replace qualified bearing assemblies or beads and gears to solve the problem. If the fault cannot be removed, the rear axle nut needs to be removed, the rear wheel should be removed, and the damaged parts of the rear axle should be inspected and replaced.
The gap between the rear axle combination bearings is too large or damaged. First loosen the rear axle nut with a wrench, tighten the rear axle block with a wrench, hold the wheel horizontally with your hand and shake it without clearance, and tighten the rear axle nut. The rear axle or quick release is loose, causing the entire wheel set to shake.
The solution can be solved by tightening the rear axle locking screw or quick-release lever. The Zaokai bearing in the rear wheel group is damaged, causing shaking. The solution can be solved by replacing the qualified bearing assembly or beads and gears.
If the fault cannot be removed, the rear axle nut needs to be removed, the rear wheel should be removed, and the damaged parts of the rear axle should be inspected and replaced.
1. The rear axle shaft refers to the loose bearing or ball assembly or damage to Wei Xunsen, the solution is to replace the bearing or bead file to restore normal, the rear axle fixing screw or quick release component is loose, the solution is to lock the fixed screw or quick release assembly, the rear rim is deformed by external force, try to return to normal with the tightness of the strip, if the deformation is serious and cannot be recovered, you can replace the new rim or wheel.
Rear wheel deflection caused by uneven rear wheel spoke tension. Maintenance method to find the place of swing, if like the right swing, use a spoke wrench to tighten the hub orange socks against the missing left side of the spoke, the rear wheel bearing damage caused by the rear wheel deflection. Maintenance method: Replace the bearing damaged by the rear wheel damage circle, and the rear wheel deflection caused by the displacement of the rear wheel installation.
Maintenance method: Reinstall the rear wheel in the correct position and lock it.
Bicycles should be washed frequently and kept clean. To wipe the bicycle, you can use 50% engine oil mixed with 50% gasoline as a wipe. Find loose or broken strips, tighten or replace them with new ones.
After changing the outer tire, it may be to cover or beat the tire, release some air, and then tidy up the inner tube evenly, and then try to fill it up, if it shakes violently from side to side, tighten the rear wheel fixing screw or quick release lever.
Generally, the handlebar, the central axle, the front and rear axles of ordinary bicycles are simple bearings composed of steel balls and steel bowls, and if the round bridge is full of bearings composed of inner and outer rings, rolling elements and cages, it is a full bearing. Due to the good sealing, the bearing can be better waterproof and dustproof, and it has a longer life than the general use of longevity. The traditional money for changing the ball a few times and changing the oil a few times is enough to replace one or two new bearings.
If you want to save more, you can actually pry open the cover on the outside of the bearing, so that the refueling is no different from the traditional one. In addition, due to the good integration, the bearing can be more labor-saving. Nowadays, many of the better bicycles and competition bicycles use the bearing method.
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The bottom bracket bearing is broken, replace it. **Remove the screw in the middle of the crankset, see if it is a square hole or a spline, buy a bottom bracket with the same specifications and replace it. There are special tools to disassemble the central axis, go to the car repair shop, it is best to buy a bearing-style central axis, and buy a Taiwanese one (estimated to be from Kunshan, China) is about 30 yuan, which is very easy to use.
The following are commonly used in the bottom line of mountain bikes:
1. Loose bead type. 2. Sealing square type. 3. Sealed spline type.
4. Sealed hollow type. Mountain Biking Tips:Freestyle pedaling method:
At present, most of the athletes in the Youheng Duanxiu use the freestyle pedaling method. In this pedaling method, the angle of the ankle joint changes depending on the position of the foot during the rotation of the foot.
Freestyle pedaling, in line with the principle of mechanics, the direction of force and the circumferential tangent formed when the pedal rotates are believed to be consistent, reducing the range of motion of the knee joint and thigh, which is conducive to increasing the frequency of pedaling, naturally passing through the critical area, and reducing dead spots. The thigh muscles can also be relatively relaxed. However, this pedaling method is more difficult to master.
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The bicycle makes abnormal noises as soon as it pushes hard, and there are generally problems with the following components:
1. The chain is different from the lead soundDue to the lack of lubrication of the dry chain and the excessive adhesion of sediment, the chain is often beaten by the wind and rain outside, and it is necessary to apply some lubricating oil to the chain regularly.
2. Abnormal sound of flywheel tooth disc: The occlusion degree of the flywheel chainring and the chain is directly related to the lubricant, and the chainring can be properly coated with some lubricating oil; In addition, the relaxation of the chainring will also lead to a "click" abnormal sound, which needs to be solved by dismantling the chain and reorganizing the chainring;
3. Abnormal sound of foot pedal: Because the driver exerts pressure on the pedal to produce abnormal noise, most likely because of the loose or deformed pedal problem, it is recommended to replace a new set of pedals to solve.
Precautions. Abnormal sound of the central shaft is a very common problem, generally the abnormal sound of the central shaft is mostly caused by the degree of locking of the central shaft, or there is rain cement and sand intruding into the central shaft bearing, at this time, you need to go to a professional repair shop to use the bearing disassembly tool to reinstall the bearing.
When these parts are worn, aging and other undesirable phenomena, please be sure to pay attention to them, and check and replace them when they are good.
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1. If the crank or crankset is loose, use a rubber hammer to hammer it a few times, and then tighten the crank or crankset fixing screw.
2. The steel ball or ball block inside the central shaft is damaged, this must be replaced on the central shaft, and you don't use your hands because the strength of your hands is much smaller than that of your feet, and it will not shake it.
3. The shaft lacks oil or dust is serious, if it is a sealed integrated shaft, only a new one, you have no way to add oil or take it out for cleaning, if it is the old-fashioned split bead block shaft, you can consider removing it to refuel or clean, but this shaft is generally difficult to dismantle, quite a test of your skills, tools and character.
4. There is also a possibility, mostly seen in the old-fashioned bead block shaft, that is, the outer bead block of the shaft is loose, resulting in a large gap between the steel ball and the bead block, resulting in abnormal noise, this repair is simple, luck with an open wrench to tighten the bead block, if your bead block shape is more special, the wrench or something can not be used, a hammer and a chisel waiting, the chisel is put on the bead block, regardless of the left and right bead block, all hammer in the direction of the rear wheel, and the hammer is OK.
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The first step in modifying a mountain bike with a mid-mounted motor is to remove the central axle of the mountain bike; How to disassemble the central axle, methods and tools are very important, and you can also modify the mountain bike yourself if you use it correctly.
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If there is a pop on both sides, as if stepping on the void, it may be that the bearing of the bottom bracket is damaged.
If there is only one side, it may be that the connection between the crankset and the bottom bracket is loose.
Abnormal noise near the axle may also be the reason, taking the square hole shaft as an example, after the fixing screw is loose, the crankset will produce a certain angle with the shaft as soon as possible, friction occurs, it is best to go to the car shop as soon as possible to check it, if the bottom bracket or crankset hole is worn for a long time, it may be necessary to replace the bottom bracket or crankset.
There are many reasons for the poor force, such as soft bottom bracket, soft crankset, and too small frame.
Happy riding!
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It doesn't seem to be a problem with the five-way bowl set, it should be that the steel ball of the pedal is stuck, and there is a clicking sound.
Shake it gently with your hand and you can shake it.
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It should be the right pedal that is loose! Just take the wrench of tool 15 and tighten it! Not a problem with Midstate?
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Look at the connection, it may be loose. It's okay to take a look at the car shop.
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The crankset is shaking ???
This is a rare problem.
Combining your situation, you check a few places.
1.If it's really a bottom bracket problem, the crank and pedal will also have a shaking feeling when you pedal. But you mentioned it, so I don't think it's a problem with the central axis.
2.Check the disc nail, which is the screw that fixes the platter, to see if it is loose, to be honest, I have not seen the disc nail loose.
3.According to your description, the main problem is that there is friction between the mid-game and small-set gears, and I think the front derailleur is not adjusted well.
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It should be that you changed the gear wrongly, or the crankset was worn out, so you have to go to the car shop to check it.
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Dude, our cars are the same, but I'm giant, go to the store and open the bottom bracket to row the beads, and put a little oil on it, because the pedaling and cadence are too fierce, and the bottom bracket is damaged.
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Oh! Thank you. The crankset is a waterproof bottom bracket. Can it be taken apart? Or need a new one?
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The beads in that roulette wheel in the bike fell off and it cost a little money to fix it.
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