What is a literary bird, what are the habits of a literary bird, and can it be trained?

The bird is placed in a square cage, a very small green like a small thrush, a small and dexterous one.

The first step is to get started in the cage.

Remove everything that can be parked, such as a pole rest table in the cage, and then reach into the cage with your hand. It's a similar gesture on the picture, four fingers together, and the thumb is clasped up. It's bound to be a mess at first, and that's okay, just get enough of it.

Every time it flies somewhere, on the cage, move your hand over to reach for it, as fast as you can reach for something, or a little slower, and the target position of the hand should be in front of its stomach until it jumps into the hand.

I only started training on the first day, and after chasing it a dozen times, I got started. Once you get started, don't move, let it rest for a while, and let it know that there is no danger in the hand. Rest for half a minute, manually let it fly away, and repeat.

Basically, repeat this a dozen times, and you can jump smoothly.

Before I get acquainted with it, my bird will only get started when it first gets started. The first time it started in the back left of the cage, the next time I reached it, it would fly to that position and then jump up. This may be a habit of the bun bird.

How much training does it take to get started in the cage – until you put your hand in the cage and it will jump up on its own. My bird cage is quite large, and I had to get under my stomach before jumping up at first. Later, I got used to putting my hand in the middle of the cage, and it was still a little away from it, and it was able to jump up.

If you can do this, you can move on to the next step.

The second step is to set a point outside the cage.

That is, find the outside of the cage where you want it to fly back to its park. For example, mine is just the cage door, because the cage door opens downwards and can stand like a small platform, so I use the cage door as a fixed point. After getting started, slowly move your hand to take it out of the cage and put it on the cage door.

If it goes well, it will jump onto the cage door on its own.

In case it doesn't go well, if it flies back into the cage early, just take it a few more times. Or if it flies to where you want it to stop while you're driving, stop driving and let it stay there for a while. That location is the so-called fixed-point position.

You can also put a food box here, you don't have to really feed it, just let it know that it's safe there. The idea is to make it stop where you want it to stop.

The third step is to get started outside the cage.

That is, if you want your bird to come to you, you should start first, bring the bird out, slowly take a few steps back, and widen the distance from the fixed point. If, in the process of retreating, the bird flies back on its own, it doesn't matter, just start over. If it can be brought to the distance you want, say two meters away, stop at that location, then let the bird face the fixed point, and let the bird fly back.

First, take it out and let it fly back, repeat a few times.

After about four or five repetitions, you can stand near the cage and shout at it, and when it is familiar with it, it should know that your hands outside the cage are also safe, and it will fly up. The big guy has a wise saying: don't care about the distance, talk about the success rate first.

Even if your hand is 10 centimeters away from the fixed point, and it jumps up, it is a success. In the future, just slowly pull away from it.

The three things that Wenniao is most afraid of are as follows:

1.What the bird is most afraid of eating is the pit and seeds of the fruit of the Rosaceae family. For example, apples, pears, peaches, apricots, cherries, etc., contain cyanide in the pits or seeds as preparations. The pulp itself is non-toxic and beneficial, but remove the pits or seeds before feeding.

In particular, the peel and pit of avocado contain a toxic substance called "persin", which can cause rapid heartbeat in the heart nucleus, difficulty breathing, myocardial damage, feather growth disorder, emotional restlessness, weakness, and mental sluggishness.

2.The animals that are most feared by the birds: snakes, cats, magpies, weasels, polau, small birds of prey, etc.

3.People of the colorful bird are most afraid of its disease, especially trichomoniasis.

How to make Bai Wenniao not afraid of me:

If you want to make the white bird not afraid of people, pay attention to its movements must be gentle, establish its relationship of trust with it, and at the same time after it adapts to the environment, hand feed it, and satisfy its wail that likes to bathe, over time, the white bird will no longer be afraid of you.

When getting along with Bai Wen Bird, pay attention to the action must be gentle, and you can't get along with Bai Wen Bird with Hu Qing anger, they are very sensitive to human feelings, let alone build trust if they don't get along well.

When the white bird adapts to the home environment, it can start to raise it by hand. First, feed the bird with its hands, and if it can jump on its hands to eat, it means that it is beginning to get close to people. Some white birds are timid, so don't force them to raise them by hand at this time.

The white bird is a kind of small bird that likes to bathe, when the weather is hot, prepare more water to bathe them, the white bird will get closer and closer to you, and then no longer afraid of you.

After the embroidery-eyed bird arrives in a new environment, it is best to put it in a dark-lit environment, try not to disturb it, and when it is familiar with the environment, it will start to approach people. To keep the embroidery-eyed bird in the environment, you should spend more time with it in normal times. Take the bird out for a walk more often, so that it can be exposed to more environment, and it can also train its courage.

The embroidery-eyed bird is not afraid of people's taming methodsWhen the embroidery-eyed bird first arrives in the new environment, it is normal to be afraid of people, it is best to put it in a darkly lit corner during this period, and prepare a clean diet for it every day without disturbing it, and after a few days it will begin to approach people after it is familiar with the environment.

When raising the embroidery-eyed bird, because it is more energetic, it is necessary to prepare a cage with a larger space, and keep the environment ventilated, spend more time with it in ordinary times, and wait for it to be very familiar with the owner, and it will not be afraid of people.

It is a common name for several finches such as mannikin and waxbill, which are native to Asia. In the place of origin once endangered the local crops, regarded as a pest bird, now through the breeding and breeding of bird keepers, in addition to the original species of gray, has been successfully bred into white, camel, there are new varieties of occurrence, black text and silver text, silver text is not actually silver, it is just a very light gray, its body color from the original gray gray to light gray, the original black area into medium gray.

Among them the Grey Bird Lonchura Malacca, including LAtricapilla with Lferruginosa) is a pest bird in rice fields that is distributed from India to Java and the Philippines, and is called a tricolor nun bird if it is kept as a cage bird.

It is a bird that everyone is very familiar with, because it is strong and healthy, it is suitable for beginners, and it is a beginner bird species.

The bird lays about 5 to 8 eggs at a time, with a hatchability rate of 85% and an incubation period of 18 days, with a delayed winter. Male and female birds take turns incubating eggs during the day, and mothers are responsible for incubating eggs at night. Young birds stay in the nest for a long time and leave their parent birds as soon as they become independent.

Don't put food in the cage, only put water, and the big bird will be hungry for 1 day or two days.

Every morning is the most active time for the birds, in the morning when the sparrows are chirping, find a room without dead corners (there are dead corners of the bird is easy to get into, you are not good to interact with it), and then sprinkle millet on the ground to squat yourself (be sure to squat, it is better to sit on the ground) in a far place to wait for him to eat, only sprinkle about 10 pieces.

After eating, continue to sprinkle a second time, sprinkle closer than the previous time, a distance away from you is more appropriate, and wait for him to finish eating and then sprinkle, closer.

After that, you can sprinkle millet on your shoes, and then hold the millet and wait (some birds will take a long, long time, maybe 10 minutes before they dare to stand on your hands, so be prepared for numb legs and feet).

That's how to do it, remember to sprinkle no more than 15 pieces at a time, otherwise it will have no effect when you are full, never use your hands to grab him, grab him, touch him, don't put your hands in his cage.

This method can make the bird get started, but can not go outdoors, because although the big bird and the chick can get started, but the chick gets started because of the dependence on your hand, it will not fly away easily, the big bird is just not afraid of your hand, dare to stand up, once you get outdoors to your hand has no sense of dependence, it will fly away instantly and will not come.

Food. Start by placing the food a little further away from your hand, gradually get closer to your hand, and finally eat it in your hand.