The car stalled because the motor control was broken

The engine sometimes stalls when idling, and it is normal after restarting, which is called "interstitial idle stalling", because the engine can be restarted after occasionally stalling and can return to normal, so even if the engine is idle and stalled due to the sensor, the engine electronic control unit will think that this phenomenon is not a fault, and will not be recorded by the engine electronic control unit, so it cannot obtain information about the fault from the fault diagnosis system of the engine electronic control unit. The reasons for "intermittent idle stalling" generally include: the engine idle motor is stuck; The wire sheath of the idle motor is somewhat worn out; The idle air hole is too dirty; There is a problem with the engine throttle position sensor; There is a problem with the camshaft position sensor or the crankshaft position sensor; The engine speed sensor is faulty or too dirty; There is a problem with the idle control program in the engine's electronic control unit, etc., I once repaired a liter Chevrolet bullet, and when the vehicle came to the repair shop, the driver reported that the engine was not idling, and after the test drive, it was confirmed that it was "not idling".

After inspection, it was found that the engine idle motor was stuck by carbon deposits, and it could not be repaired, so the idle motor could only be replaced. During the conversation, it was learned that the car began to idle and stall a month ago, but every time it was turned off, it was normal to restart, so it did not come for maintenance, and this time it was completely idle. After cleaning the throttle body and replacing the idle motor, everything returned to normal, so I guess this is caused by the idle motor, and I also told the driver that there will be no more idle stalling after a while.

But two days later, the driver drove over and said: sometimes there will be idle stalling, and the engine fault light is not lit like the original problem, so only Tech1 (General Motors special tester) can be used to detect the dynamic data of the engine. About half an hour later, it was found that there was a sudden drop in the value of the speed sensor, and the engine also stalled, restarted the engine, and the idle speed returned to normal.

Immediately check the engine speed sensor, found that the sensor is very dirty, there is a thick layer of oil on the surface, remove the sensor and clean, and then install it and then start the engine, try for about an hour and a half without stalling again, so it is concluded that the car's "intermittent idle stall" is caused by the engine speed sensor is too dirty, and the idle motor stuck caused by the "no idling" is just a coincidence.

The vehicle can not start first check whether the battery is missing, the battery is normal to disassemble a spark plug to test whether the electrode is jumping, the spark plug is no problem, focus on checking whether the fuel injector can inject normally, if the fuel injection is normal, check the throttle and air flow sensor, these two components are normal, and then check the camshaft position sensor, some of the above circuit problems are the main reasons for the normal start of the vehicle. The oil circuit part focuses on checking whether the gasoline pump and fuel injector are working properly.

Hello car owner, this is not necessarily, the specific situation needs to be specifically checked.

It doesn't have much to do with it, and it doesn't have anything to do with it.

Hello, it's the idle control motor.

The car can't be opened, is the starter motor broken? I feel that the car can't hit, the leakage town is not exactly the motor is broken, I think there are still many reasons why the car can't be hit, and there are also returns and rough may be because of the loss of electricity, so it can't be hit.

There are several reasons why the car won't start: one. No oil. Two. Power. Three. No air intake.

Let's analyze these four items approximately:

One. No oil.

The reasons for the failure are:1The oil pump relay is working poorly. 2.The oil pump is not working well. 3.Out of gas.

Fault Detection: 1Detection of oil pump relays:

Turn on the key switch and don't hit the motor, you will hear a click, which means that the relay is working properly! If there is a continuous clicking sound, check whether the tie wire is loose. If the relay is judged to be damaged, the light relay can be interchanged with the oil pump relay.

Drive to the repair shop and buy a new relay.

2.Detection of oil pump: Generally, it is checked with an oil pressure gauge, because it is self-excluded.

There is no oil pressure gauge! The easiest way to do this is to remove the tubing and turn on the key switch on the position. Do not start the motor.

If the oil pipe is injected, it means that the oil pump is normal. On the contrary, it is not normal.

Two. Power. Cause of failure:1The head of the battery pile is loose.

2.The high-voltage ignition coil is damaged. 3.

The cylinder line is damaged. 4.Whether the starting relay is plugged in properly or not, it is damaged.

5.Whether the insurance is burned out. 6.

Whether the motor is working properly. 7.Whether the main output cable of the computer case is loose.

Fault Detection: 1Detection of loose battery pile head: observe whether the instrument is displayed, if the whole car has no electricity, open the hood, and observe whether the battery pile head connection is loose and oxidized. Loosen it with a wrench, and pour boiling water on the pile head for oxidation.

2.Detection of ignition coil: You can use a multimeter to check the resistance value of its primary and secondary coils, which should be within the conforming range, and the secondary resistance should be larger than the primary resistance!

But that's not sure if it's in good condition! Unplug the cylinder wire, observe it for flashover, and see if there is any leakage in the insulation! The jumping fire should be blue, and the sparks are thick and long!

3.Detection of steel wire: check the resistance value with a multimeter, which should be within the load range. Unplug the cylinder cord and observe it for a flashover. Or skip the fire and replace.

4.Detection of starting relay: There is a problem with the general relay, and there is no response when hitting the motor. Plug and unplug the relay again to see if it starts normally! Replace the relay or motor shorted.

5.Detection of the fuse: Open the fuse and observe whether the fuse indicator is normal and whether the fuse is burned. Replace the fuse.

6.Motor detection: mainly listen to whether the sound of the motor is normal. If the carbon brush of the motor is severely worn, it can be temporarily activated by hitting the motor with a hammer. Go back to the repair shop for replacement.

7.Whether the main output line of the computer box is loose: check whether the plug-in of the computer box and its wiring and each sensor is loose. Fastening is recommended.

Three, no air intake.

Cause of failure: Damage to the eccentric wheel and wear of the eccentric shaft, resulting in the intake and exhaust valves cannot be opened and closed.

Troubleshooting: Call a tow truck!

If it helps you, please light it up, thank you.

Battery power loss, poor contact at the terminal post, battery management system problems, etc., will have a certain impact on the car.

In addition to the starter motor, there is also an electromagnetic control mechanism in the starter assembly. The function of the electromagnetic control mechanism is to push the small flying tooth installed on the rotor of the starting motor outward and engage with the large flying tooth on the flywheel, so that the starting motor can drive the flywheel to rotate.

When the control mechanism fails, the small flying tooth cannot mesh with the large flying tooth, and naturally the engine cannot be started. The symptoms manifested were the slighter with the key twisted, and only the sound of the starter spinning at high speed was heard, but the sound of the engine crankshaft flywheel running was not heard.

There is also a clutch between the starter rotor and gears, and the speed of the starter is generally 120r min when working, while the idle speed of the engine after starting is about 900r min. The function of the clutch is to prevent the driver from continuing to engage with the small and large flying teeth because the driver does not release the key in time after the engine starts, so that the engine in turn drives the starter, resulting in the starter burning out.

The vehicle uses a special DC motor, also called a starter.

The reason why you can't catch fire is nothing more than the following reasons:

1. The battery is seriously depleted, and you will hear a slight "click" sound when you take a taxi, but the starter does not rotate.

2. The battery is completely out of power, the line is broken or the contact is poor, and the starting relay is damaged, and the whole car has no response in this case.

3. The gear binder is broken, and the "hum" sound of the starter can be heard when ignition, but the engine does not respond.

4. Peripheral faults and stuck engine transmission parts will also cause a phenomenon similar to Cause 1.

The reason why the car motor does not start is that the carbon brush of the starter is seriously worn.

The carbon brushes of the starter are seriously worn, and the role of the carbon brushes is to deliver current to the rotor and make the rotor rotate. Although the motor only works at start-up, and the working time is only a few seconds, because the current of the starter is as high as several hundred amperes. In addition, the carbon brush is attached to the rotor under the preload of the spring, so the contact point between the carbon brush and the rotor will produce a strong electric spark at the moment of starting, which will cause the carbon brush to be ablated.

When the carbon brush of the starter is seriously worn, the performance of the start-up is weak in attack, and the crankshaft can be clearly seen to rotate very slowly through the belt and pulley. When the wear is very severe, the starter may not be able to rotate the crankshaft at all, only the sound of humming electricity.

Precautions for automotive motors

To have a good starting habit, the start should generally not exceed 5 seconds, the gap between continuous start is more than 15 seconds, and the third time in a row can not start normally after one minute before starting. Do not start continuously for too long, so as not to burn the starter (i.e. the motor).

The battery should be checked regularly so that the battery can start the engine at normal capacity and power. Car starter batteries are maintenance-free, and the life span is between one and a half to two years. When it comes to a certain time, be sure to go to a professional maintenance point for inspection.