Nikon D50 with prime lens, recommended for prawns!

Look at your own needs first and then consider what lens to buy, otherwise it's just a matter of falling into the dust. If it's just a landscape or something, the sleeve is enough, if it's indoors, often encounter insufficient light, and the flash is not very ideal, it is recommended to buy 35, this lens can be stretched out indoors, 50 is too long, and the house is not big to lean against the wall. If you want to bokeh the effect when shooting portraits outdoors, you should buy the 85, this bokeh ability is much better than the 50, which is not long or short, but the application range of this medium and telephoto lens is relatively narrow.

The 50 focal length lens is actually not long or short on the D50, if you have the money to get a 50, it is good, and a few hundred dollars to get a 50 is actually about the same, the D50 has a body motor, there is no need to buy a G head.

I recommend you take a look at the Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm F 1400 or so. The imaging is very good. **It's not expensive, the half-width machine can be used as a hang-up head. Good value for money and great for newbies.

It's good, but the poor mechanical properties are not as good as the aperture and aperture and lens structure that are worse between the two: 6 groups of 7 lenses, lens structure 6 groups of 8 elements (1 aspherical lens), the rest is no difference, and besides, you just go out to play with it, why don't you have a fixed focus, buy an 18-105vr is enough to use it anywhere. It's much cheaper than it, and you can take photos from near and far.

Generally, it's not 50 to take a picture of a landscape and a class reunion or something, and I personally think 35 is better.

18-105 bar, it's basically enough for daily use.

Say it little by little:

1, on 35 The idea is good, after changing the focal length, it is probably the header, but in order to shoot the scenery, one is that the super large aperture of the header is not used, and the other is that the angle of view of the header is not wide enough, and the scenery is a little narrow, some are unreliable, 35 on the half-frame machine, just like the 50 on the full-frame, at most it is a hang-up human head, and the scenery is still relatively reluctant.

ps:35 There is a common problem with this head, that is, the purple edge is more serious, think carefully!

2. If there is no original plot, I personally recommend considering Tuli 12 24, after changing the focal length, it is just ultra-wide, the resolution and coverage are very good, known as the poor man's gold wide angle, the main reason is that the money is used on the blade: what is the big aperture for shooting scenery? Ultra-wide-angle focal length is king!

There is a photographer who has traveled the world on Tuli 12 24, and you can refer to his works.

3. If there is an original plot, consider giving up 35, into a 55 200 is the king, telephoto shooting scenery, more reliable, telephoto is not all used to fight birds, a good telephoto head can provide bokeh (200 end provides shallow depth of field), can make a lot of beautiful portrait close-ups, there is a compression effect, shooting scenery is also more beautiful, with your existing 18 55, it can be said that the focal length is fully covered, photography is an art of subtraction, ultra-wide end in actual combat, no medium focus is easy to use, this is my personal experience.

To sum up: I like big scenes, I have money and often travel around: Tuli 12 24, poor gold wide angle.

Urban humanities, botanical scenery, occasional travel: Nikon 55 200, poor people's small bamboo cannons.

I like to hang up and sweep the streets, shoot mm with a wide aperture blur background, and shoot humanities: 35

As above, hope it helps.

Additive: "I often need to shoot some plants and sketches, and some scenes", in this case, into a 35, because it has a lens motor, and D5100 does not have a body motor, 50 does not have a motor, can only turn the focus ring by itself, that is a very sad ......

Based on what you're saying about your shooting preferences, I suggest you change the 18-55 out to the 18-105vr 156.

If the budget can be more, you can go to the 17-50 of the Ascendant, and the B005 of the second generation or the third belt is also 17-50, but with anti-shake, the picture quality is also better, about close to 3,000 yuan, which is nearly half more expensive than the 18-105.

With your 35, it's all 35, you can shoot still lifes, sketches, portraits, humanities, 18-105 or 17-50, you can shoot tourism, big scenes, landscapes, this set is enough for you to use n for a long time, hehe, when you have money, the technology goes up, and then upgrade, hehe, I hope it can help you.

Nikon D5100 with 35mm is very good at shooting some humanities, and this head is worse for tourism.

Two suggested copy gives you control of **:

1.To use the BAI aperture priority setting, you can dial the dial to zhi "a", if the subject is brighter, for example.

DAO can be adjusted down by another small gear-like dial during the day (e.g., f8, the higher the number, the smaller the aperture), and indoors or in low-light places (e.g. In this way, the time is automatically adjusted by the camera according to the value after metering.

2.Use the metering mode well. Generally, there are spot metering, ** key metering, or surface metering.

If the contrast of the scenery you shoot is too great, such as shooting people against the backlight, if you use spot metering to shoot the people, the characters will be shot clearly, but the scenery behind them is excessive. If you don't want to overdo it, you'll need to use face metering. You can feel these skills when you practice, just shoot more and think more.

Regarding pure theoretical knowledge, you can search for it yourself, there are a lot of them, and I personally think that it is necessary to practice more.

In general photography tutorials, there are methods and principles for setting aperture and shutter, which only define the range of basic data under the scene and lighting conditions, but in actual photography, the specific matching value of aperture and shutter is still obtained through practice.

Use auto first, the one with the green camera icon. Metering, ** and other knowledge should be learned slowly

You try using the P file first.

Then take a look at the parameters.

Learn it slowly.

Take a look at the information.

There is no most suitable lens for photographers, only more suitable lenses. It mainly depends on the amount of money prepared and what the subject material is often filmed.

The D5 is a high-end SLR released in January 2016 using a 20.82 million pixel full-frame CMOS image sensor. Therefore, the lens should also be tall to match it, and can be selected according to the following scheme:

Full prime lenses: AF 14mm F ED, AF 16mm F ED, AF 35mm F 2D,

AF85mm F VR, Macro 105mm F IF-ED, AF-S 200mm F 2G ED VR II 、......Or longer, shorter.

Varifocal lens series, ultra-wide-angle AF-S 14-24mm F-ed, AF-S 17-35mm F-ed, ......Standard zoom AF-S 24-70mm F ED, AF-S 24-120mm F 4G ED VR, AF-S 70-200mm F ED VR II ......or longer zoom.

Special series: such as perspective adjustment lenses, lenses with focal lengths, and lenses with macro functions, which will not be listed one by one.

To be honest, without stabilization or autofocus, can you still want this head? Telephoto without VR, some people can't stand the bird, and you don't have focus! Why don't you buy a 135 manual old man?

Take a picture of the flowers, take a picture of the scene'To shoot the model out of the film low. Some friends use it well. Zoom manual no VR telephoto head forget it'Just that little aperture!

Do not say. 1

Looking at the number of the lens, all those with G are supported.

Nikon's lenses, with G are specially prepared for digital cameras.

Take 50 as an example, 50 does not have a lens motor, and 5100 does not support.

However, the 50 comes with an ultrasonic motor, and the 5100 does.

In the final analysis, it is because the 5100 does not have a fuselage motor.

Therefore, when you buy a lens, please see if the lens has an ultrasonic motor (both with G).

Basically.

The most affordable is 18-105

Secondly 16-85

Preferably 17-55

Fixed focus can be equipped with a G head, in fact, an 18-105 is completely sufficient.