The structure of the automatic discharging chip dryer

The automatic unloading iron chip dryer has also become an iron chip deoiler, mainly for the spin dry deoiling treatment of oily iron pins in machine tool processing, and the equipment can be directly matched at the outlet of the chip conveyor of the machine tool for spin dry deoiling treatment, with high deoiling rate and good spin drying effect, which can greatly reduce the chip oil and reduce waste, and the chip oil can also be filtered and purified for recycling.

The scrap dryer is fully automatic unloading, without manual participation, and is an ideal equipment for modern factories.

Introduction to the separation of material chip deoilerIntroduction The iron chips generated by the machine tool are lifted by the machine tool chip conveyor and lifted into your supporting chip conveyor, and lifted to the dryer for spin drying, and the dried iron filings are directly discharged from the discharge port, and the thrown chip oil directly enters the oil tank through the hose The chip conveyor also has a small oil storage tank.

There are two kinds of on-site conditions of supporting iron filings deoiler in general projects:

1. The chip deoiler is placed directly under the chip conveyor of the machine tool, so that the chips discharged by the chip conveyor can be spun dry and deoiled, and the thrown chip oil can be reused through the hose into the oil tank of the machine tool (or it can be filtered by the filtration equipment).

2. Centralized processing of iron filings deoiler is to manually concentrate all the chips, aluminum chips and copper chips processed by machine tools into one piece for spinning dry and degreasing, and the supporting situation is generally the chip removal conveying device metal deoiler oil storage tank.

No matter which set of solutions is matched with the iron chip deoiler, it is not only the best for cutting fluid, but also can reduce the operation of workers and reduce the environmental pollution of the workshop. Improve the effectiveness of your work.

You can go home and look at the structure of the dehydrator, but there is an extra hoist to unload.

Dismantle the washing machine and spin the bucket to disassemble the steps:

1. Remove the top cover, there are screws behind the machine. Remove the control panel. Remove the front panel. Separate the inner and outer cylinder components from the number of lines, inlet and drain water level control hoses.

2. Separate the inner and outer cylinder components from the box. Panasonic pulley on the belt. Loosen the pulley bolts and do not remove the screws completely. Take 3 to 2 places. Separate the front and rear sections of the outer cylinder.

3. Hit with a heavy object, bolt, make the inner barrel shake, and then pull out the inner barrel.

Spin dry bucket for a double-cylinder washing machine.

1. Open the back cover of the fuselage first, and loosen the top wire (screw) of the barrel shaft and the motor coupling with a screwdriver, so that the dry barrel shaft is not driving the motor shaft to rotate.

2. Unscrew the self-tapping screws of the washing machine barrel lid again, and then lift the machine cover, so that the dry bucket can be taken out smoothly from above.

3. If you continue to disassemble the motor, you can put the washing machine down, and unscrew the balance spring of the spin-off motor at the bottom to take off the motor.

Fully automatic washing machine.

1. Remove the top cover of the washing machine and the fixed wire of the control panel.

2. Set off the control panel.

3. Tighten the top cap of the cylinder and take out the cap.

4. Tighten the gaskets on the upper and lower sides of the cylinder disc and the wave wheel cover.

3. Wire the bottom of the drum to take out the laundry bucket.

2.There may be 2 hooks in front. Lift the workbench slightly behind it, push it forward, then lift the front up and erect it back at 90 degrees, so that it is leaning against a wall or someone to hold it up.

Note that a "handle" on the left rear side cannot be touched. It's mainly the wires in the back, so that's the only way to get it.

3.Seeing that there is a ring lid on the whole barrel, it may be a buckle around it, or it may be a screw, remove the ring lid and put it aside.

4.Using a large Phillips or flathead screwdriver, remove the roller, unscrew it, and remove the roller from the barrel. There is a spacer underneath the wheel, so you don't have to lose it.

5.The next step is to disassemble a large nut, which is recommended to find a special tool, or call a service person, otherwise the whole barrel will fall if it is not tightly loaded in the future. Be sure to tighten it when you put it back on, as tightly as you want.

6.The nut is removed, and there is an L-shaped fixing sleeve with a cross-section underneath, which cannot be lost. Then the whole bucket can be taken out, and it is more difficult to take it for a long time, swaying from side to side, and pulling upwards. Or put your foot on that shaft and pull that bucket again.

The spin-off bucket of a double-cylinder washing machine is usually connected in this way.

The dewatering motor is connected to the connecting shaft, and there are two fastening screws on the connecting shaft, one is to connect the motor shaft, and the other is to connect the shaft of the spinning bucket.

The double-cylinder washing machine is as simple as that. If it is a washing machine that has been used for a long time, it is generally difficult to take off the dry bucket easily, generally after loosening the screws on the connecting shaft, find someone to tighten the connecting shaft with something, and then rotate the spinning bucket until it can rotate the dry bucket smoothly, and then pull it up hard, you can remove it. If it is fully automatic, the entire barrel must be taken out of the box first, and then the clutch and wave wheel must be removed. Generally this is the case, but there are more special circumstances, in fact, it is very simple, change the soup without changing the medicine, as long as you master the installation method, it is easy to remove the dehydration bucket.

Is it a double-barrel washing machine or a fully automatic one?

Friends, there are generally several situations in this: 1. The motor coil is faulty, and the starting winding is burned out or opened. This can only be done by rewinding the motor coil or replacing the motor.

2. The motor clutch is stuck or the clutch cable is broken, causing the clutch to hold the motor shaft, this can be solved by connecting the cable or finding the clutch place where the motor shaft is locked, if the clutch cable bayonet is broken, then it will be good to repair it. You can change the position according to the actual situation. 3. If the starting capacitor of the motor is broken or the capacity is reduced, it may lead to difficulty in starting the motor, so it is good to replace the starting capacitor.

There are several possibilities for this. The first is that the capacitance is insufficient. The second is that the clutch is stuck. The third is that the transmission belt is loose.

Being able to wash clothes means that the motor is basically normal, and the reason may be that the clutch is stuck, which should be a mechanical failure.

1. Before using the washing machine, its inner cylinder should be adjusted smoothly, otherwise it will affect the working effect of the dryer.

2. When dehydrating clothes, the cover must be closed, and the cover of the washing machine cannot be opened from time to time.

3. The dryer of the washing machine is spinning and drying, and the computerized automatic washing machine can be corrected for dehydration imbalance, if the problem has not been solved after two corrections, it will stop and send out an alarm at the same time, then the cover should be opened, the clothes will be evenly distributed, and then the cover should be closed, and then press its start pause button.

4. After the washing machine is used, the glass window on the washing machine can be opened a little, which can extend the service life of the sealing ring of the washing machine, and at the same time can emit the moisture in the washing machine to prevent mold inside the washing machine.

First, the clothes should be placed evenly around the spinning bucket;

The second is to compact.

There is always a "knock" and "knock" sound, which is that there is something wrong with the dryer and it is unbalanced and hits the barrel and needs to be repaired.

Remove the pulley under the shaft assembly, take out the plugging ratchet, you can see the clutch spring, if the clutch spring is broken, it will also cause dehydration, the clothes are twisted into strips, that is, when the cylinder rotates, the wave wheel is also rotating.

If the belt slips, loosen the motor set screws, tighten the belt and tighten the set screws, it's fine.

Since you rule out the problem of the belt, the problem is on the motor or clutch, you first disconnect the motor belt, let the washing machine enter the dehydration state, observe whether the speed of the motor is normal, if it is normal, the problem is obviously the clutch problem, if the motor is slow, check whether the voltage received by the motor is 220V, if there is a local short circuit in the motor winding, the motor needs to be replaced. But most of your problems are clutch failures, especially for washing machines after 6 years of use. (Note:.)

The wave wheel and the outer barrel are running synchronously during dehydration, if you can see that the wave wheel is rotating at this time, it must be wrong, and the clutch assembly needs to be replaced or hugging yellow).

After you put on the belt and "test the tension with your hands"?? Can you tell if it's a belt? Or the clutch? ）

The use of single dehydration is to adjust the function selection knob of the automatic washing machine to the "dehydration" setting, put in the clothes that need to be dehydrated, and press the start pause button to spin off the clothes.

This button should also be noted, different washing machines require different durations, some are pressed directly, and some washing machines need to be pressed for a few seconds, at this time, the machine begins to perform a single dehydration program.

Here's how:

1. First plug in the power of the washing machine, and then put the clothes waiting to be dried into the washing machine.

2. Then close the lid of the washing machine, press it open, and the commonly used indicator light will be on; Press Dehydrate again and set the indicator to the expected time period.

3. Finally, press start, the washing machine will start to dry the work, and the scheduled time will be over, and the drying work will be completed.

The specific operation steps for single dehydration are as follows:

Turn on the power switch.

Set the function selection knob to single offshift.

Open the door of the washing machine, put in the laundry that needs to be dehydrated, and try to distribute it evenly in the bucket as much as possible.

Close the glass door of the washing machine.

Press the Start pause button, and at this time, the machine will start to perform the single dehydration program.

It should be noted that the single dewatering is still a drainage procedure at first, so there is no response at the beginning of the machine drum, and only the sound of the drain valve is heard, and it will take about a minute before the rotating dewatering bucket will be started.

Press the "Process Selection" button, the light tube will move between "Laundry", "Rinse", "Dehydration", and when the "Dehydration" light is on, press the "Start" button to start spinning and drying clothes.

Put the clothes in, close the door (it must be closed, otherwise the washing machine will not dehydrate) and then select the dehydration --- start --- OK

Turn the power switch on, then set the program to the Dehydration setting, and then press the start button.

Is light spin dry? Mode: That should have a dehydration, and you can set the mode to dehydration.

Do you know that automatic washing machines also have a separate spin drying function?

This is the brake spring of the dehydration bucket installed on top of the brake.

This spring can also be used without it, its function is to hold the lid of the washing machine.

It is recommended to go for repairs, it is not cost-effective to buy a new one. Reasons and treatment methods for washing machine spinning dry barrel motor not turning:

First, when the washing machine is washing clothes, if the motor has a humming sound, but does not turn, it may be a problem with the starting capacitor. If there is no sound from the motor, it may be that the lid linkage switch of the dehydration bucket is faulty.

Second, check whether the belt is loose, check the pawl and clutch, and see if the brake is tight or whether the mechanism plate on the drum cover is broken.

Third, the automatic washing machine does not rotate, some motors with clutches are very hot, and the starting capacitor may be broken, or the wire head falls off and the motor cannot be started. If there is no clutch, see if the motor is stuck, do not idle the belt under the motor experiment, whether it is stuck, if it is not stuck, most of the starting capacitors are problematic.

Fourth, the spinning tube does not rotate in the following situations:

1. The motor burns out (no reflection when energized).

2. The brake line is broken (the motor cannot be started after the power is turned on).

3. The timer is damaged (after twisting and twisting, the timer has no ticking sound).

4. The water seal is damaged (the water seal is damaged, and it is difficult to put the clothes right until the official does not turn, and the sound of the clothes tube can be heard at this time).

5. The line is open (generally visible with the eye).

My mother-in-law's washing machine can't be washed and dried, and the motor is broken, she said that it is repairing more than 200.

50 for a new one? It means that the motor is not broken, and it may be that the starting capacitor needs to be replaced.

Have fun!

New motor 50? You have to give the old ones to others, right? 50 can't be bought, your motor is probably not broken!

Can't it be started? If you can't turn or there is a starting sound, it won't turn, it's a broken capacitor, just a few more dollars, the old machine is still good, but you have to see if the others are about to break, if you buy a new one, remember: the same price, the first class!

Cheap no good goods!

It's been used for so many years, you can change to a new one, and now the new one doesn't cost much, and you don't know how long it can be used when you go to repair it, so it's better to buy a new one and use it so well.

It is recommended to repair, the old machine itself knows that it is not good there, and it is not easy to break when used.

You can change it to a new one, and the new one is now very cheap.

Or decide for yourself, buy or repair.

It's only 50 yuan to change the motor, it's really cheap...

Find a repairman! The leakage of my house burned out the motor no more than 30 yuan, if you do it yourself, the sealing ring is very cheap (I bought 5 yuan), but be careful not to puncture the sealing ring when installing.

The water seal ring of the deceleration clutch is damaged.

The clutch assembly needs to be replaced.

The cost is more than 100.

The maintenance cost is about 200

Generally, it takes more than 300 to complete.

If there is no leakage during laundry, the water pipe or link pipe is broken.

The water pipe costs a few bucks, and it's only 20 to replace it

1. There is a rupture in the drain pipe itself that causes water leakage, and it is recommended to replace the drain pipe.

2. After the drain valve is stuck by foreign objects, the closure is not tight or the drain valve is broken, you can first clean up the foreign matter at the drain valve port, if not, the spring of the drain valve is broken, and you can change the spring.

3. The central shaft leakage, the problem of central shaft leakage must be solved, otherwise the motor will soon be burned out, and the traction motor can be protected with a plastic bag.

4. It may be that the drain pipe is leaking at the connection with the washing machine, it is recommended to reconnect it, I hope it will help you.

Question: What is the problem with the automatic washing machine draining normally, but when it is spinning dry, water leaks from the bottom of the washing machine.

Ask if you need to find a master to repair it, or can you fix it yourself.

The central shaft does not know that it is **faulty.

Question Okay, thank you.