If you are satisfied, you will be rewarded with 40 points! How to buy a DSLR?

1.Look at the packaging, look at the insurance card, look at the body number, and make inquiries**, there are too many ways, and the easiest way is to find someone who knows how to buy it together.

2.Look at the body to see if there are traces of use, and see if the bag has many wrinkles, that is, the plastic bag that wraps the camera in the box; Attach accessories to take a few photos on the spot, and check the **serial number; Take a few photos of all black at different times** and check the irritability and bad pixels; Pay special attention to focus when shooting.

3.The invoice is stamped, check whether the insurance card is consistent with the fuselage number, and generally do not need to fill in the insurance card.

The materials pasted downstairs are out of date, at least a year and a half ago, hehe!

Buying a camera is not that hassle, as long as you find the right dealer.

You can go to the specialty store and buy it, it will be fine

1. There will be a certification under the camera, that is, an anti-counterfeiting logo, which can be called back to the manufacturer or online certification.

2. You can't see if there is anything wrong with the camera, as long as you see the origin clearly when you buy it, and take a few random shots to verify the shutter. After that, there will be a warranty date, before which you have to use the camera to shoot a roll of black and white, one roll of color, and immediately develop it to see if there is any problem with the color and effect, and replace the new machine in time.

3. The warranty and invoice are OK, and there are many accessories for other cameras, please check them together.

I only buy parallel cameras. So don't worry about being filled with parallel goods.

As for the selection, look at the packaging, condition, shutter times, and body number. Take a picture of each of the black and white cardboards to see if there are any dead pixels.

There is basically no need to choose a new machine.

I never needed a warranty. If you don't fall into the water, it will generally not break, and the warranty coverage will not cover these if it is broken. If the normal use is broken, you can basically throw it away and replace it with a new one.

It's best to find someone experienced to buy with you.

I have a question that I don't understand: Is a DSLR a camera? Why?

At present, it is not recommended to buy D7000, D7100 has a great improvement, in addition to Nikon, Canon, it is recommended to look at Pentax can also make you satisfied, the budget is enough 8000 to 9000, don't ** door-level machine, it is very chicken to upgrade in the future. Two suggestions for you.

1 Pentax K5II, 7 shots, Prime2 processor, ISO51200 high sensitivity, shoulder screen, excellent performance, compared to the K5's poor shadow focus has been greatly improved, now it can focus quickly in a 3EV environment, and with a DA18 135WR, plus a DA35mm and a Zeiss M42 adapter lens, you can hardly upgrade for a long time, meeting most requirements. Coupled with the waterproof 18 135 and rugged body, you don't need to worry about the safety of the equipment at all for outdoor shooting, and the battery life of 980 shots is powerful. The cold colors of the color Pentax are very unique, and it can be said that it is the closest to the taste of the German Leica camera.

Airy ecstasy.

2 Nikon D7100, 22M new CMOS, go to the low-pass filter, the resolution is very high, the imaging is sharp, and it is also cold, the current budget of this machine can only get 18 105 sets, but its focus and control have a huge surpass compared to D7000, so this machine is not as cost-effective as Pentax K5II, Pentax has no chance of winning. Of course, Pentax's fuselage motor supports old lenses well, but the focusing speed is really not enough, and the fuselage motor is not as good as the lens motor.

Overview, if you want to play with old lenses in the future, it is recommended to buy Pentax K5II, if you just want to do it in one step, Nikon D7100 is the best C-frame camera. Appendix, K5II, Hong Kong Bank stand-alone 4700, D7100G Hong Kong Bank 18 105 sets of 8000, mobile phone call, hope to adopt.

1. The fuselage can buy the mid-range on the mid-end, and the full-frame can be full-frame; 2. The mid-range and entry-level machines with the same APS-C format are still different, and the mid-end metering and focusing systems are still different, especially with shoulder screens, the control performance and feel are good, but the difference in image quality is not so big; 3. The budget is more than 9,000, a lot, even if you buy D7000, you can't get a good head, directly on the D600 + 24-85mm set of machines, the licensed goods are about 3K or so, the parallel goods are estimated to be more than 1W, the image quality is excellent, and the lens will be better in the future, such as -200 or fixed focus and the like.

If you choose a low-end machine like D5200, the remaining money is not enough for the original lens.

These are average.

It is recommended that you Pentax K30. Among the products of Nikon, Canon and Pentax, the three major Japanese camera manufacturers, the K30 is currently the most cost-effective DSLR entry machine. Sony, Olympus, etc. are not recommended, because the lens quality of these homes is not as good as the above three, and the image quality of the lens in SLR photography is very important.

K30 is currently the most versatile, the best performance, the best workmanship, the most inexpensive entry-level SLR.

Nikon's entry-level SLRs do not have a body motor, and some of Nikon's automatic lenses do not have a lens motor and need to be driven by a body-based motor. In addition, Nikon's timed interval continuous shooting function is also very limited, so this function is much worse than that of Pentax (although it is not slightly better than that of Canon).

Most of the Canon SLRs have functional defects, since 2DII and below, there is no duplicate** function, and only the new 5DIII has the duplicate** function; But even on the 5DIII, it does not have the timed interval continuous shooting function that Pentax's entry-level K30 has.

In addition, Nikon and Canon SLRs both use lens stabilization technology, and only lenses with anti-shake devices can have an anti-shake function; Pentax DSLRs use in-body image stabilization technology, which can be enabled no matter what lens is attached to the body (even if it is redirected).

In addition, the K30 has the level function, focus fine-tuning function, dustproof, anti-drip protection capabilities, etc., which are only available on Nikon and Canon's mid-range and above SLR models, and are not available on Nikon and Canon's entry-level SLRs.

You get what you pay for, the more expensive the more complete the features, think for yourself! The picture quality is basically the same.

You can buy a camera at Beijing Wukesong Photographic Equipment City, in the West Fourth Ring Road, next to Dinghui Bridge Wukesong Jimei, and Zhongguancun.

As for not wanting Japanese products, I'm really sorry, Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Olympus, Panasonic, Ricoh are all Japanese manufacturers, Samsung uses Japanese chips, and Hasselblad is left, and 5000 is not enough.

It's really helpless to buy a camera without Japanese products, 90% of the world's cameras are from Japanese manufacturers, and the rest have something to do with Japan.

Samsung and Sigma have DSLRs.

Sigma's is more expensive, 10k or more.

The Samsung GX10 is more than 5K on a single machine, and more than 7K on the lens sleeve.

The only DSLRs with lenses around 5K are Nikon's D40, D40X, Canon's 350D, and 400D.

SLR camera, you index size SLR, or traditional film SLR, if it is a DSLR, 5000 is enough to buy a new machine that does not match the head, but it seems that now there are only Japanese brands of DSLR on the market, and the film is not only Japanese, but now even if you buy a machine, it is difficult to buy film for SLR.

1, Leica is all listed goods, just like Sony's Zeiss lens, don't take it seriously. Laika buys high-end luxury Liangsao.

2. The lens 18-135 is cost-effective, and the 55 focal length is sometimes a little shorter, and 135 is definitely enough.

Camera, grade, it doesn't matter if you choose between the mid-range, and it doesn't matter if you choose it in the entry. It's 60d, d90 if you can.

Otherwise, just buy 600d, d5100 and so on, it's not much worse.

I personally feel that the D3200 can be considered, and the D3100 should be considered as well.

5200 is not recommended.

Lycra, personally, I feel that Lycra's low-end products may not have any advantages.

If you want to have a good effect, you must choose a beginner SLR.

First of all... Don't think about Leica about 5000, it doesn't mean much.

Secondly... You are really suitable for buying a micro single instead of a SLR, SLR is stupid and stupid, and when you go out to travel, you are not looking for your own guilt. . . Like the previous two friends, it is recommended that you buy a better DC or mirrorless, as for the lens, you can choose a lens with large focal change when the image quality requirements are not high, so that you can shoot more various compositions and scenes.

Your friend is a fool, a layman pretending to be an insider, and your situation is suitable for buying micro-orders.

do you understand！

give me extra points！

If the entry-level machine is recommended to get a second-hand SLR to try the hand, this thing will be addictive, and when you play the entry-level machine for two or three months, you will want to change it to a better one. In this way, you won't lose much by processing the entry machine.

A better card or mirrorless can meet your requirements, without the necessary photographic knowledge and post-production ability, the ** shot out of the SLR is not as good as the card.

If it's just for everyday household use, the D90 is definitely cheap and practical. 5D3 and D90 are not at all the same level. If you're just getting a DSLR, D90 is really good.

If you want to buy 5D3, I also recommend the line D600, which is cheaper than 5D3, and it is also full-frame, and the performance is not worse than 5D3.

Hello! Tomb.

In fact, it is better to shoot scenery or Nikon, because Canon shoots people, Nikon shoots scenes. So the D800 and D610 are still slightly better than the 5DIII in terms of scenery. **Also cheaper than 5diii.

Your colleague is right, but you don't seem to have a lot of money, so D90 is not very necessary. You can buy it first, then get to know and familiarize yourself with it, and it's never too late to play.

I read the manual overnight, and I learned it very quickly.

If there is a problem, **: Photography 198788047 learning

If you have professional needs, 60D is definitely better than 550D. Just because of the difference between the pentaprism and pentasides of the viewfinder, it is enough to make a choice. Not to mention the other parameters.

The standard lens of the 50 is recommended, which is entry-level, but the performance is absolute.

It is still recommended that you buy a 550D, and buy a better lens.

Novices don't need to use a mid-range camera when they come up, and the pullover effect of the 550D is far beyond the card machine, which fully meets the needs.

In addition, the quality of imaging is mostly determined by the lens, so even if the camera is good, it still can't be done without a good head.

Why does it cost so much? Just use it together.

Pentax K30 or K50, with 18 135WR, body image stabilization, anti-drip and dust-proof, 1 6000 second shutter, 6 second continuous shooting, full field of view, pentaprism viewfinder.

Nikon D7000+18-105 lens.

Canon 60D+18-135 lens.

Pentax K5+18-135 waterproof lens.

It's all good, you can go to the physical store to see the feel and decide.

Add better lenses later.

Now there are two options.

60d scheme.

Money-saving programs. 60D stand-alone plus Canon18-55 is the cheapest, if the 18-200 Tenglong of the deputy factory is the most affordable (the 18-200 magnification of the auxiliary factory is very large, it can be used as a telescope,) probably the sub-factory lens is about 1000 18-55 not to mention, can only shoot very small, can not be used as a telescope.

The best value for money on a budget.

The 60D stand-alone machine is about 4000, and you can buy an 18-200 one-shot lens from an auxiliary factory to go around the world (1000 lenses).

Then it is equipped with a 50 image quality that is super good, and after reducing the aperture by a few stops, it can be comparable to the image quality of tens of thousands of red circle zooms) 700 pieces.

If you can, add a 35 2 (wide-angle, large-aperture, image quality is still comparable to red-circle zoom) 2000

If you have money left over to equip a high-speed flash, (800) will suffice.

Then you can buy the most professional variety of things according to plan 2. If you're technically good. The equipment is no longer basically complete.

Entry-level machine plan.

d3200...Very cheap.

Plus 18-55 heads may only be more than 3000. And it's easier to use, and it can also be equipped with 18-105 and more than 3000, which is very affordable. That's pretty much the case for machines in this price range.

Of course 600d 18-55

d5100 18-55

At this price, D3200 is recommended....Cheapest.

As far as my personal experience is concerned, if you want to buy it, you can buy one with a shoulder screen, which is convenient in the end. Therefore, it is recommended that PentaxK5 (function on the second 60D) lens or DA1855, think about it better, 18135 waterproof head, if you can grit your teeth again, you can directly da1650 (portrait scenery takes into account) or K30 with 1650, after all, the SLR is mainly a lens.