How to apply glue to the leakage of floor reinforcement How to deal with the exposed reinforcement o

The exposed steel bar of the floor slab is that there is no protective layer of steel bar, and the steel bar without the protective layer will rust, and often this will make the cross-section of the steel bar smaller, so that the mechanical performance of the steel bar will be reduced, and the service life and structural safety of the structure will be affected. The treatment method is to take anti-rust measures on the steel bar, you can paint epoxy resin glue on the surface of the steel bar, and then use 20mm thick cement mortar to wipe the surface.

Paint epoxy resin glue on the surface of the steel bar, and then plaster the surface with 20mm thick cement mortar.

The exposed steel bar is that there is no protective layer of the steel bar, and the steel bar without the protective layer will rust, and often the steel bar section will become smaller, so that the mechanical performance of the steel bar will be reduced, and the service life and structural safety of the structure will be affected.

Precautionary measures: 1) Before pouring concrete, check whether the position of the steel bar and the thickness of the protective layer are accurate, and repair the problem in time.

2) In order to ensure the thickness of the concrete protective layer, it is necessary to pay attention to fixing the cushion block.

3) When the steel bar is dense, choose the appropriate stone. The maximum particle size of the stone shall not exceed 1 4 of the minimum size of the structural cross-section, and shall not be greater than 3 4 of the net distance of the reinforcement.

4) In order to prevent the displacement of the steel bar, it is strictly forbidden to hit the steel bar with the vibrating rod. In places with dense reinforcement, vibrating rods with blades can be used for vibrating.

How to deal with the exposed tendons:

1) Rust removal: Because the steel bar is exposed for a period of time, the surface of the rust, in order to make the steel bar and the concrete well bonded, so the exposed part of the steel bar must be derusted, specifically the steel brush is used to scrape off the rust on the surface of the steel bar and clean up.

(2) Chiseling: In order to ensure that the upper layer of fine stone concrete has a good bond with the base concrete, first use a wire brush to remove the surface floating layer dirt. Then adopt artificial chiseling method, chisel off surface concrete, make the base expose hard, firm concrete surface, chisel must be thorough and comprehensive, but also should not be too deep to avoid damaging concrete.

(3) Flushing and saturation: For the surface of the chiseled concrete, the debris and dust are washed clean with tap water, and sprayed continuously and evenly to make the surface concrete reach a saturated state, and there is no clear water on the surface. In order to increase adhesion, cement oil can be evenly applied to the contact surface.

(4) Curing: 24 hours after watering, the pouring layer shall not vibrate and collide; Before the final setting, the surface should be smoothed and calendered, and after the final setting, it should be covered with a warm cloth bag or straw bag, and sprinkled with water for maintenance, 4-6 times a day. It is advisable to maintain the temperature above 15 degrees Celsius for seven days.

Solution:

1) After brushing the surface of the exposed ribs, use 1:2 or cement mortar to smooth the exposed ribs, and carefully maintain.

2) If the exposed ribs are deep, the weak concrete and protruding particles should be chiseled away (the examination is large), and after washing, it should be filled and compacted with fine stone concrete with a higher strength grade than the original, and carefully maintained.

Analysis reasons: 1) When pouring concrete, the cushion block of the reinforcement protective layer is displaced, or the cushion block is too little exposed, resulting in the steel bar falling or moving outward to be exposed close to the formwork surface.

2) The structure and component section are small, the steel bar is too dense, and the stone is stuck on the steel bar, so that the cement mortar can not fill the steel bar around, resulting in exposed ribs.

3) The concrete mix ratio is improper, resulting in segregation, lack of slurry or serious slurry exposure of the formwork.

4) The concrete protective layer is too small or the concrete leaks vibration at the protective layer, or the vibrating rod hits the steel bar or tramples on the steel bar, so that the steel bar is displaced, resulting in exposed ribs.

I judge that the floor slab of your house is a prefabricated slab, and the exposed steel bars may be beard tendons. You are taking a closer look to see if the concrete that has been shaken down is straight in one direction.

This one is not serious. If the exposed ribs are not very serious, first clean and moisten the exposed ribs, and then cover them with high-grade mortar to prevent the steel bars from continuing to corrode.

Brush a layer of waterproofing agent, the kind used in the toilet, choose a little better, basically colorless.

Just leave it alone for 20 years and it's fine, you just don't know if you do it once you make a wooden floor, it's not a big deal! It doesn't get in the way of your stay!

There are many exposed ribs under the floor slab, and the phenomenon of exposed ribs continues to develop, it is recommended to rework and deal with the rust of the steel bar The cause of the corrosion of the steel bar must be oxidation, and there are many reasons for oxidation, according to what you said.

Look at the degree of corrosion of the steel bar, if it is not very serious, remove the rust on the steel bar (you can use a steel brush), re-pour a layer of fine stone concrete, water and moisten the building before pouring, and brush it with pure cement slurry to prevent hollowing.

It should be possible to use concrete to make up and then scrape the lime essence.

1.Simple rust removal (you can remove the rust, don't wash it with acid, wash it with acid will hurt the steel bar, and don't brush the paint substance to remove rust, brush especially hinders the "grip and wrapping force" between the steel bar and the back concrete, that is, simple physical rust removal, simple grinding with coarse sandpaper, pay attention to try not to "hurt" the steel bar when grinding, and remove most of the embroidery), 2Use fine stone concrete to make up the damaged part of the floor slab [first treat the original floor slab, 1. Try not to damage the steel bar under the premise of removing rust; 2.

The original floor slab on the ash sand sweeped, sprinkled with water, soaked, in pouring fine stone concrete (not too thick about 4cm on, so as not to add too much load to the floor slab), the cement used in the pouring concrete, try to use "expanded cement" (this is sold, but more expensive than the ordinary, the amount is not much, you can find acquaintances to go to the larger construction site to point), if it is shaken down under the floor slab, it is inconvenient for the family to pour concrete, you can wipe a high grade of cement mortar (expanded cement is the best), The method of steel rust removal is the same as mentioned earlier, the cement mortar should not be too thick, wipe it several times, each time to 5 10 mm as well, and the total thickness is about 2cm after covering the steel bar.