The plastic suction cup on the stainless steel heating rod in the fish tank will not be scalded

Yongcheng's heating rod is safe, after all, it is a brand product.

First, the glue suction cup will not be scalded, because the constant temperature of the water in the fish tank is about 25-30 degrees, and the temperature of the heating rod is about 60-70 degrees at most, and it will never exceed 100 degrees (the boiling point of water), so there is no need to worry about the suction cup being scalded.

Second, don't worry about the fish will be burned, because the fish also has a temperature sensing process, when it swims close to the heating rod, it will feel that the water temperature becomes higher quickly, if the temperature is too high, then it will have a natural reaction, no longer swim close to the heat source, just like people, will have a similar reaction, so don't worry.

As long as it is not dry burning, it will definitely not, the melting point of general plastics is above 200 degrees, the melting point of rubber is even higher, but the boiling point of water is only 100 degrees. Even if the water is boiled, the suction cup will not melt.

Use the heating rod or pay more attention to the accuracy and power of the temperature control, and there is nothing wrong with the rest.

No, the glue suction cups are high temperature resistant rubber.

The safety of the heating rod lies in you, temperature control and observation are very important, no matter how good the heating rod is, there are times when it is bad.

Definitely not! Rest assured! The heating rod is not hot fast. As long as the temperature control is not bad, it is fine.

The heating rod doesn't get hot at all when it works!

The heat generated is taken away by the surrounding water at any time, and it will not get hot if there is no problem with the temperature control.

Under normal circumstances, the heating rod is triggered by the temperature sensing of the internal bimetal sheet, and the heating rod is at a constant temperature, and it will automatically stop when the temperature you set is reached. If you don't stop, your fish will become boiled fish. So it's usually checked from the circuit first, and then from the device.

Noisy friends. Because the heating rod is automatically controlled according to the electronic thermostat, the heating function will be started only after the water temperature drops to the set temperature, so there must be an excessive process before starting the heating function, so there is a situation that my friend said.

You check the temperature setting of the heating rod, the water temperature will definitely not be heated when the water temperature reaches the setting, if there are water droplets on the inner wall of the pipe can also cause a short circuit, the easiest way to check is to take it out, find a basin to swim on the cold water, put the heating rod in to see if it can be heated can be judged to be good or bad.

There is also a reflection process between the temperature display and the electronic thermostat, so the temperature displayed by the thermometer has not changed, and the temperature of the water tested by hand is sometimes affected by the air temperature, body temperature, sensory system, and environment, and even emotions, so there is an illusion, and it is recommended that a thermometer display prevail. In this case, if the temperature difference is less than 3 degrees, the fish will quickly adapt to the temperature change and will not have a bad impact on the fish.

The large temperature difference between the outside world and the higher the requirements for the heating rod, but in the case of a fish tank with a lid, the requirements for the heating rod are slightly lower! For example, a 60-long standard rectangular fish tank needs 150w or 200w without a lid, while 100w is actually enough if it has a lid. Someone said, then I'll buy a 500w directly, so it's not provincial, and I'm not bad for that electricity.

Hehe, electricity is one thing, if you don't want your fish to turn into fish soup, you can go up to a kilowatt.

If the wattage is too low, at the low temperature outside, the heating rod will enter a long-term work, and even not reach the level required for the work! For example, if it is set to 30 degrees, it can only reach 245 degrees. The wattage is too high, and the heating rod will be turned on and off again at low temperature, which greatly reduces the service life of the heating rod.

Generally, the service life of the heating rod is about two years! It is estimated that the heating rod used in that way has been operating normally for more than half a year.

The placement of the heating rod: This is no stranger to everyone, the fish tank, of course, it is placed behind the fish tank to avoid, how to put it casually, as long as it does not expose the water surface. In fact, although there is no big research on how to place the heating rod, there are two best ones, one is vertical vertical placement, and the other is balanced horizontal placement.

In terms of aesthetics, it is placed at the bottom of the cylinder and lies horizontally below, which is very space-saving, and because the heating tube inside is horizontal, the heating surface is a little wider, which belongs to the best heating effect. Of course, the vertical placement also looks good! But the heating effect is slightly worse.

These two are the most commonly used and the most aesthetically pleasing.

But in fact, it works best in **, and there is a difference. First of all, the heating rod should not have dead corners up and down, left and right, that is, it should not be close to a corner. There must be at least five or six centimeters to the left and right of it.

I believe that many friends have had the experience of the baby fish stuck in the corner between the heating rod and the fish tank!

Because tropical fish have a habit of drilling into ......So the heating rods are also a danger zone that they frequent. Once stuck, heating the temperature of the rod can definitely kill it instantly. Be absolutely aware of this!

In addition, if you want the best heating effect, it is necessary to place the best place for cylinder circulation, that is, near the water outlet of the circulating pump, and use the water flow to circulate the high-temperature water near the heating rod to other locations without the heating rod.

The possible reasons why the fish tank heating rod will not heat up after a while in the water are as follows, which can be checked one by one:

1. The plug is loose.

2. The power supply is damaged.

3. The circuit is tripped.

4. The water temperature is relatively high.

5. The setting temperature of the heating rod is relatively low.

6. The capacity of the fish tank is small.

7. The power of the heating rod is too large.

8. The heating rod is faulty.

Under normal circumstances, the heating rod is triggered by the temperature sensing of the internal bimetal sheet, and when the water temperature reaches the set temperature, the main pop-up contact is not heated. So it's usually checked from the circuit first, and then from the device.

The heating rods are all at constant temperature, and they will automatically stop when you reach the temperature you set. If you don't stop, your fish will become boiled fish.

It is best to use an oxygen pump, the heating rod may be broken, if you just bought it, ask him to replace it.

You see if the temperature adjustment knob next to the heating rod leads is too low.

The heating rod in the fish tank is usually fried for the following reasons:

1. The voltage of the power supply increases suddenly;

2. Improper installation, the electric heating device is not completely submerged;

3. Improper operation, external force action to form cracks;

4. Improper function, heating when there is no water;

5. Inferior products.

It is recommended to deal with it as follows:

1. Cut off the power supply immediately;

2. Remove the residue;

3. Temporarily use hot water to bottle at a constant temperature;

4. Buy a new heating rod as soon as possible and install it in the manner required by the manual.

Two possibilities. Ordinary heating rods, lack of water must be fried.

Large fish with glass heating rods, were crushed.

The heating rod is very important, buy a *** one.

First, it is bad. The second time is long.

Isn't it a little too long to get out of the water

1) This has something to do with the local temperature and whether it is covered, and the power of 100W should be considered normal;

2) 24-30 temperature difference of 6 degrees, parrots are more leathery, if it is slow cooling, heating should not be a big problem, some aquarists say that this is to imitate the wild environment, increase immunity. But nature Bi Li Qiao is actually the survival of the fittest, so it is a matter of opinion. The key is to keep the water quality good, no bacteria, no parasites, and there is no problem with the tossing point;

3) It is still the same as question 1, it is related to the local temperature, whether it is covered or insulated, but under the same conditions, it must be less than 6 hours, because it takes 6 hours to heat the heat loss rubber scrambler pin, and the cooling speed is definitely faster than heating;

In fact, it doesn't need to be so high as 30 degrees, the high temperature is mainly to inhibit the growth and reproduction of similar common fish disease sources such as small melon insects or bacteria, so it is appropriate to add coarse salt and the temperature is 27-28 degrees, and the key is water quality. The temperature is adjusted to 27-28 degrees, and there is no need to toss the switch every day to save some electricity.

The possible reasons why the fish tank heating rod will not heat up after a while in the water are as follows, which can be checked one by one:

1. The plug is loose.

2. The power supply is damaged.

3. The circuit is tripped.

4. The water temperature is relatively high.

5. The setting temperature of the heating rod is relatively low.

6. The fish lacks branches, such as the small capacity of the tank.

7. The power of the heating rod is too large.

8. The heating rod is faulty.

Under normal circumstances, the heating rod is triggered by the internal double permeable metal sheet temperature sensing, and when the water temperature reaches the set temperature and volt opening degree, the main pop-up contact is not heated. So it's usually checked from the circuit first, and then from the device.