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1. The airtightness and thermal insulation of the room, and the heat loss of the walls and windows all have an impact on the indoor temperature.
Square meter house, 4 circuits, is a bit less, there should be 6 circuits are about the same. If it is a wall-hung boiler, it will definitely not burn hot. If the total number of pipes is sufficient, the fewer the circuits and the longer the meters of a single circuit, the greater the system resistance, the greater the temperature difference between the supply and return water, and the indoor temperature is difficult to rise.
The temperature difference between the supply and return water is about 10 degrees, and your temperature difference has reached 17 degrees.
3. The total height of your backfill layer and tiles is 10cm, which is not thick.
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The cause of the sound is that there is an air blockage, or a sharp bend in the elbow. According to what you said, you don't have anyone living in your house, so it's a bit unlucky, because the current floor heating is all floor without insulation, so you have some of the heat dissipated downstairs. If you don't believe me, go down and measure the temperature at least 10 degrees Celsius.
Because the designer designed according to all the heating, but you don't have anyone up and down to 16 good.
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The temperature of the inlet and return water is almost normal, look at your picture, whether the radiator is still connected behind the floor heating water divider, and the upstairs and downstairs are not heated to have a great impact on your home.
The shut-off valve cannot be used for heating, because the shut-off valve blocks water and affects the flow rate, which is easy to cause problems.
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How is your water separator like this? Wasn't it many years ago? Now we have installed a thermoelectric valve to control the temperature.
Then you don't have a control panel either?。 Try a panel on your home? A room all the way to a thermoelectric valve.
There will be a control panel. Do you have to go to the equipment room every time to adjust the temperature?
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The switch should be no problem, the floor heating at home is not hot may be due to the following situations:
1. First use or long-term unused.
If it is just installed floor heating, or has not been used for a long time, at this time turn on the floor heating its heating is relatively slow, it generally takes a long time (more than 10 hours) to reach the temperature we set, that is, because the temperature is too slow, the temperature has not changed much for a long time, which has caused people a feeling that the floor heating is broken.
Solution: This kind of quality problem that does not belong to the floor heating itself still needs to wait patiently.
2. Small heat dissipation area.
Sometimes the floor heating at home is not hot, not because the floor heating is broken, but because there is a shelter on the ground, the indoor heat dissipation area is too small, which affects the heat dissipation effect. For example, furniture in the home, carpets, etc.
3. There is gas in the pipeline.
If the main floor heating bar is hot, but the return bar is not hot, it can be determined that it is because there is gas in the pipe. There is air in the geothermal pipes, which obstructs the water circulation, so that the hot water cannot enter the circuit and cannot be circulated.
Solution: Generally, the water separator will have an exhaust valve, which is used to exhaust gas, and the newly used and installed geothermal must be exhausted. Use the air release valve on the water separator to open the air in the pipe and deflate until the hot water is released.
4. The filter is blocked.
If the inspection finds that there is no gas in the water pipe, but the floor heating is not hot, then you should check the filter, there is a filter on the bar of the water separator, which plays the role of impurities. If the filter is blocked, it affects the normal circulation of water in the water pipe, the flow rate of the water decreases, the floor heating pipe has no flow, and the natural floor heating is not very hot.
Solution: Remove the filter and clean it, and then install it, if you are worried that you will damage the filter by dismantling, you need to find a professional person to operate.
5. The circuit is uneven.
If it is in the same district, the heating effect of other users is very good, but their own effect is very poor, which may be the uneven floor heating construction circuit.
Solution: Use the small valve on the water separator to mediate the circulation of each circuit, so that it can circulate evenly and achieve a good heating effect.
6. The floor heating has not been cleaned for a long time.
The floor heating is not hot due to untimely maintenance and inadequate, because of long-term use, it is easy to accumulate scale or silt in the water pipe, and if it is not cleaned regularly, it will be attached to the inner wall of the pipeline, and the situation of blockage will occur, affecting the normal use of floor heating.
Solution: Maintain regularly, but don't do it yourself to clean up the floor heating, and find a professional cleaning company that is more reliable.
7. The floor is too high and the pipeline pressure is not enough.
The floor is too high or at the end of the water supply in the community, the pressure in the pipeline is not large enough, and the speed of the water flow will be directly reduced, which will lead to insufficient hot water in the pipeline.
Solution: You can first find the property and heating company to solve the problem, if you can't solve it, you can consider buying a circulating pump to improve the circulation of hot water, which will generally be improved.
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Whether the main pipeline filter and the entrance filter are blocked, and whether the valves are opened.
Whether there is breath holding in the manifold.
Analyze whether there is any unobstructed place in each loop heating pipe.
Due to the low quality of construction personnel and brutal construction, the floor heating pipeline appears dead bends and flattening, resulting in poor water flow, increased resistance, low flow rate, and unhot system.
The debris in the pipe was not cleaned before the pipe was laid, resulting in local pipeline blockage.
If none of these are the case, there may be something wrong with the design.
The design inlet water temperature is low, and the pipe water design is unreasonable. It is recommended that the loop of central heating mode should be 70 90 meters long; When the user designs the heat source individually, it is advisable to choose a loop with a maximum length of 50 to 70 meters. According to the structure of the house, the orientation is different, should be selected without heat load, if the same is selected, the design load may be less than the actual heating load of the room, resulting in the room is not hot, the pipe spacing design is unreasonable, the spacing is too large, the radiation heat dissipation is small, and there may be no heat.
If all else is not, then you can change the floor heating, haha!
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I don't know exactly what the reason is, but there are the following aspects you can check the following: 1. Turn off the water supply and put the water back, turn off the water supply and release the water supply, all the way to see the situation; 2. Check whether the dirt remover is blocked; 3. Check whether the temperature control valve is open; 4. Check whether the water supply and return pipes are reversed.
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1. Please first determine the whole building heating inlet and return system diagram, there are many kinds, the pros and cons are different; Inlet water of 50 degrees does not represent the flow rate.
2 Even if there is no problem in the room and the return water is cold, please measure the temperature difference between the inlet and return water of each branch of the water separator. If the backwater is below 18 degrees, it proves that the cold source of your home is much greater than the heat source, which may indirectly be a small flow.
3 Water discharge is the embodiment of the flow in your home, 5 kg pressure release who has this kind of circulation performance.
4. Changing the distribution of the system is the root, and it is ideal to realize the downward entry of the whole high-end building, the main circulation of the double-pipe circulation and the main flow, and the realization of same-process control.
5. Check the contact angle and diameter of the backwater branch in the main pipe from the micro aspect, and check the dead zone and distribution adjustment of the distribution pipeline of each building.
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I don't understand
Maybe the tube is frozen
Let's check it out.
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Brother, I really want to solve the problem for you, but I don't understand, floor heating is easy to make people angry, but this is just my personal opinion, buy an electric heater, more than 100 yuan, but it will cost a lot of electricity, I can help you with only these, if there is a problem to find a property, and.
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1. The return valve is blocked in the pipeline of the main pipe.
2. The return valve is not open.
3. Install a hot water circulating pump at the inlet, and there is an air blockage at home.
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Personally, I think this thing is really annoying, and my family used to do the same, and I couldn't find the problem, but then my dad knocked it in a place where you could see the pipe, and it actually worked. Hehe, but not now, and I'm doing electric underfloor heating now, you can refer to hotswell
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1. Prove whether the water inlet management is blocked: as long as you close the inlet and return valves, put water in the bedroom heating, and the pressure will soon be gone. When the water does not come out, you open the water inlet valve, and if the water comes, it proves that there is no problem with the water supply pipe and valve.
2. The same method can also be used to verify the backwater system.
3. If the inlet and return water are not blocked, it is likely that the inlet pipe and the return pipe are reversed. Of course, it is not excluded that the heat supply side itself is insufficient.
4. The backwater and inlet water are in the same pipe, I don't know what you mean. If you say that you have a good analysis in your home, it is indeed generally a pipe, but this end is close to the water main, and the other end is connected to the water main. If you're talking about the main pipe, that's definitely not true.
The main pipe must be two. One ingress water. A return water.
5. There are three pipes in the bathroom: the public water inlet pipe, the entrance pipe, and the return pipe, which should be the main problem.
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I don't know where you live, I can help you take a look for free, if there is no big problem, it is basically done, I believe I can get it right. Waiting for your news.
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Try not to release water to the outside, as this will cause a lack of pressure, just deflate. It could also be the reason why other users put hot water or installed heat exchangers.
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There are many reasons why the floor heating is not hot, some can be solved at home, and some need to contact a professional to help. 1. There is gas in the pipeline: If the main floor heating bar is hot and the return bar is not hot, it means that there is air in the pipeline, which affects the hot water circulation.
At this time, it is only necessary to open the air release valve to release the air in the pipe.
2. Filter blockage: If the main floor heating bar is not hot, it may be that the filter screen is blocked due to poor water quality, which affects the normal circulation. At this time, you only need to take out the filter and clean it, and then reinstall it.
3. Uneven circuit: If it is central heating, the heating effect of other users in the same community is good, and your effect is poor, which may be the uneven circuit of floor heating construction. At this time, the valve on the water separator can be adjusted to make the circulation uniform and achieve the ideal heating effect.
The above points are simple problems that can be solved by the family.
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You see if the ball valve down there is not opened, if the water in the ground is not circulating, it will definitely not be hot.
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1. Check whether the return pipes on the water distributor of floor heating are opened, the water supply pipe is open, and if the return pipe is not opened, the water cannot be circulated, and the room will not be hot.
2. Find out if the water supply pipe of the water separator (the one with higher water temperature) has a Y-shaped filter, and disassemble the filter to see if it is blocked and needs to be cleaned.
3. Remove the air in the floor heating, open the exhaust valve, and discharge the air in the system.
The structure of the water separator is shown below:
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1. Problem analysis: First, it may be that the gas is trapped, resulting in poor water circulation, so that the radiator is not hot. Second, the pipeline is not plugged. One of them is the most likely.
2. Solution. Since the direction of the heating water is the order in which the toilet - the big house - the kitchen - the hut flows out, the most disadvantageous point of the heating pipe is the hut, that is, where the water flows to the end. Hence the suggestion:
First, to install a drain valve on the radiator of the hut or connect a valve at the end of the water supply pipe for the radiator of the hut to discharge water, you need to find a professional plumber. Second, after installation, drain the water, exhaust the gas, and exhaust the heat. Third, if after the deflation, each group of radiators is only hot for a while, and then it will be cold, indicating that the installation slope of the water supply and return water pipelines or the inlet pressure of the water inlet pipe is insufficient or the return pipe is too thin, please check them one by one.
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1.If the pipes are long, they may be partially blocked, so take something hard and knock all the pipes again, maybe it will get better.
2.Someone else's home has a heating change that affects your home.
3.Or is it a matter of air pressure, it may be that there is still unreleased gas in the pipeline. If there is a valve at home, close the valve, install a vent valve on the group of heaters that you are not hot, or directly install a ball valve, and turn on the feed water and return water to see if the gas can come out.
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Directly to the property management department, you have formed a supply and demand relationship, they should provide you with services, and when you get it yourself, they still say that you are not doing it right.
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The water doesn't flow, change the radiators.
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In recent years, underfloor heating has become the first choice for people's comfortable life in winter. Compared with radiator heating, the heating effect of floor heating is generally better, but there are also cases where the effect is not ideal. So what is usually the reason for the decline of floor heating effect year by year?
Based on years of experience, it is believed that the main cause is the deposition of impurities and dirt.
Due to the diversity of the ends of the central heating system, in the underfloor heating system, the average annual pipe scale is 1 mm, and this 1 mm thick scale can cause the water temperature to drop6. In addition, the floor heating system mainly adopts a specially designed pipeline circuit structure, the shape is complex, the pipeline is long, the change of water supply temperature will produce calcium and magnesium ion scale, and the central heating will also have silt rust scale, bacteria and algae, etc., such as irregular treatment, long-term attachment to the inner wall of the pipeline, will reduce the temperature of the floor heating system, failure, resulting in floor heating pipeline embolism and system water separator valve blockage failure. Let's compare the consequences of underfloor heating before use and clogging.
Now know why your home's floor heating is not as hot as it used to be! It is the result of the perennial deposition of these materials!
If the valve fails, the pressure difference between the inlet and return water increases, how can the hot water be heated if it can't come in?
It's not my fault.
We are going to think deeply ... It's not hot! It's not hot! Come on! Come on! Why hasn't it come yet? My family is freezing to death! Why is your after-sales service so poor! I'm going to complain about you!
It's really not my fault.
I'll take a look at the other accessories.
It's really not my fault.
We were also helpless. We can't change the water quality, we can't change the status quo.
Protecting the virtuous cycle of the floor heating system, now with an artifact.
In the field of heating in Europe, the degassing magnetic dirt remover is a must-have product for the old and indispensable, and it is a complete and indispensable product.
Degassing magnetic dirt remover (alias; Spiral air impurity separator) It works continuously and plays a dual role, through which it can play the function of purifying bubbles and impurities in the water system. By taking advantage of this integrated action, all air bubbles and the tiniest impurities will be permanently removed, keeping the system free of bubbles and impurities. It works differently from traditional filters and dirt removers and requires little to no maintenance.
The specially designed conical structure air chamber is different from the previous constant pressure exhaust, and it will not be blocked even when the pressure difference fluctuates greatly, and the exhaust can be collected normally.
Copper wire mesh high-frequency welding, no need to replace it for life, with it do you still use to clean the filter?
To further adsorb rust particles in water, 25 neodymium magnet super permanent magnet material is used, and the rust can be easily removed by twisting and removing.
Tell the user that there is no need to shut down the system, twist to remove the collection ring, and open the blowdown valve.
Corleo is a registered trademark of Zhengzhou Corleo HVAC Technology****, the operation center of Corleo (China).
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