How do you use the so called stabilization function of leica D LUX 3? Does flash stabilization work?

Hehe. The so-called anti-shake is to prevent blur caused by shaking when taking photos.

Generally, when the light is very good, the high-speed shutter does not need to have an anti-shake function.

Generally, it is relatively dark, the light is insufficient, and it is easy to shake and blur when taking pictures.

Just turn on the stabilization and you will get a clear **.

You don't need to turn on stabilization anymore when you turn on the flash, because the flash is already filled in.

Stabilization is all aimed at, low shutter in low light.

If the light is good, there is no need to turn it on, and it is useless to turn it on.

So you can't see the difference, that's it.

Anti-shake is a technology that has only appeared in recent years, mainly used in slow shooting, if the shutter reaches more than 1 500, it is basically useless, but if the effect of low-speed shooting can be displayed, if the card machine anti-shake is very important, now the mainstream is anti-shake, why not buy that

Anti-shake is not very meaningful for home consumers, optical anti-shake, electronic anti-shake is just a technology, under the slow shutter, the anti-shake is not as good as a miniature tripod, and the high-speed shutter is even more unnecessary. No one would be stupid enough to wave a camera and take pictures, and that wouldn't really help. Personally, I think that the stabilization technology is just a showcase.

Stabilization in digital cameras can only be mitigated, not avoided. Don't be under the illusion that it's all over with anti-shake, hand shaking still won't work.

No matter how good the stabilization effect is, it is not as good as a tripod.

The main thing is that the shutter of the camera is improved after the flash is turned on, so it is better. You try it in a well-lit place, and it's all right.

1) The large bottom and large aperture are changed, and although the current M4 3's biscuit zoom is portable, the aperture is all - the shutter is poor in low light. And the 109's "cookie head" can actually achieve an aperture, which is quite a remarkable design.

2) Excellent control, friends who are used to SLR will be more willing to use the viewfinder, so that they will feel more focused on shooting without being disturbed by the environment (especially during the day), 109 rich dials and buttons can be quickly blind while using the viewfinder, which is very convenient.

3) The relatively light body, the weight of 400 grams is not as heavy as one of my SLR lenses, and now I throw a piece of cloth in my bag every day, and it feels good to take pictures every day.

4) When it comes to picture quality, there are good and bad, subjectively the color is quite good, objectively the high sensitivity is good, and the low sensitivity of the dark part is indeed a little noisy, and it would be good to lr.

5) At night, under the same light source, JPG will give different color temperatures, and there will be no problem with RAW. The fluctuating color temperature makes the color different all the time.

6) Under incandescent light, there will be a macular phenomenon in JPG films, there is no problem with RAW, and LR post-noise reduction can eliminate this problem.

7) The focus is quite powerful, pointing where to hit, the most satisfying thing is the default face focus mode, but as long as you press the setting button, you can instantly switch to the focus selection mode.

8) Because the machine is still very small, especially the fixed part of the biscuit head combines the aperture ring, control ring, ratio control and focus mode control, and a large number of buttons, it is inevitable that it will be misoperated.

9) The battery is not very powerful, especially in the case of the commonly used electronic viewfinder, the power will drop quickly. Panasonic DMW-BLG10GK is perfectly compatible, and you can also choose a domestic alternative like Pinsheng.

This is normal, if it's just optical image stabilization, it's not normal to not be able to turn on the flash, but if it's night scene image stabilization, turn off the flash to prevent **excessively. I don't believe that you can turn on the flash to take pictures in the dark, and the screen is absolutely full of noise, plus **excessively.

Yes, millet just hurts...

You can try my steps to see if that's right.

1.Right-click"My computer"Select Manage and it will pop up"Computer management"window.

2.Click"Disk management"See if there are any unread disks3If there is one, then you can right-click and select"Change the driver name and path"Define a drive letter for him.

This should come out.

If it doesn't come out, your hardware may be damaged. It is recommended to replace the card reader or flash card to see which one is broken.

OIS has 2 stabilization methods: 1. full-time stabilization, which works at any time; 2. Press the shutter to instantly stabilize the image; I remember it was OIS that only full-time stabilization worked on the O machine.

Looking at the evaluation, it seems that the instant stabilization effect of pressing the shutter is better than the stabilization effect all the time.

A mode is aperture priority, why can't I dim the aperture? There must be something wrong with your operation.

For beginners who don't have the time to practice their camera regularly, reliable optical image stabilization can make it easier for photographers to use slower shutter speeds, sharper images, or improve blur.

The average photographer can tolerate a shutter speed of 1 60 seconds, and with optical image stabilization, a shutter speed of 1 15 can be used, which is advantageous in low light.

If your hand shakes a lot, or on a vehicle that shakes a lot, optical image stabilization may not be effective.

For most cameras, optical image stabilization is ineffective at a slow speed of 1s, in which case it is best to use a tripod. The main application range of stabilization: 1 8-1 30 seconds.

With optical image stabilization turned on, the shooting effect at a speed of 1 30 is close to the effect of 1 80 without stabilization.

If the fundamentals are excellent, a skilled photographer can withstand a shutter speed of 1 2 seconds; Therefore, if you have time, you should practice more, and manual image stabilization is stronger than optical image stabilization.

Useful, but only limited, is to correct subtle jitter. As mentioned above, you can't deliberately shake it to experiment.

It can still work at critical times, so it is better to buy one with anti-shake as well, if you want not to blur, in addition to the settings of the camera, it is best to use a tripod.

Optical image stabilization can generally reduce the shutter speed by 2 stops, but the premise of shooting clearly is to meet the safe shutter (the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens).

For example, if the safety shutter speed of a 50mm lens is 1 50 seconds, then when you lower two stops, it is 1 15 seconds, which means that when you turn on the stabilization, you can get a clear image with a 50mm lens at a shutter speed of only 1 15 seconds.

As for whether the effect of 1 30 and 1 80 is the same, it depends on whether the focal length of the lens exceeds 80mm, and if it does, it may not be able to shoot clear images.

However, the ** time of 1 second cannot be cleared regardless of whether the stabilization is turned on or not.

In the same poor light conditions, I want to achieve the correct amount of ** and the picture is not blurry1 Improve the ISO

2 Use a tripod.

3 Change to a lens with a larger aperture (DSLR).

4 Optical image stabilization.

5 Flash.

Increasing the ISO will increase the noise of the picture The image quality is affected by the tripod is a good way It's just inconvenient to carry After all, no matter how small it is, you can't put it in your pocket for a large aperture Yes, who will give the money? Monkey expensive flash, the average digital camera, effective within three meters, too close and then flash out of the light is not very natural

That's where optical image stabilization comes in.

Increase the shutter speed by two stops: If you prefer to use a telephoto, you need to use stabilization, because the aperture will be smaller after zooming.

Therefore, there is a sixth way, which is not to zoom, walk over by yourself, hehe, zoom is basically by walking, and anti-shake is basically by elbows.

PS: With optical image stabilization turned on, is the 1 30s shooting the same as the 1 80s without stabilization?

It's not the same, I didn't turn on the anti-shake 1 80, and it must be insufficient.

If you deliberately shake to test the ability of stabilization, then stabilization is useless, the limit of stabilization is to correct the muscle shaking caused by the excitation of the human sympathetic nerve, breathing, and the effect of heartbeat.

The anti-shake technology is different from one company to another, and it is basically equivalent to increasing the shutter speed by 1-3 stops. 1 30 seconds to turn on the stabilization is 1 60 seconds - 1 250 seconds.

The stabilization function is independent of the focal length, which is 1-3 stops higher than the focal length.

For example, at 80mm, the safety shutter is 1 80 seconds without stabilization, and 1 40-1 10 seconds when stabilization is turned on.

From the perspective of 20 years in the industry, it is definitely useful!

The most effective way to stabilize the shake is still a tripod.

The installation shutter speed is generally the reciprocal of the focal length, preferably twice the reciprocal of the focal length. In the early days of film, the sensitivity was basically ISO100, and it was generally good to be able to buy ISO400, so stabilization was very useful. For example, if the ISO is 100, the shutter is 125 and the aperture is 11 when the light is good, then if you use the header, there is no problem, but if you use the 200 telephoto, you have to reduce the aperture.

Optical image stabilization can reduce the shutter speed by 3-5 stops, and at this time, the shutter speed can be reduced by about 30-10, which is very useful. There is no problem with using the 200 telephoto either.

But at present, with the development of electronic technology, high ISO can also be used, for example, the same aperture 11, shutter 125 light. If you use the telephoto 200, then use the ISO 800, by this time the shutter has reached 1000, and there should be no problem with holding it in your hand.

So unless it's an extremely poor aperture, it's generally not a big problem if there's no stabilization. Of course, something is better than nothing.

I see that everyone's replies are very professional, but there is one aspect that is not mentioned, optical image stabilization is to consider the frequency and amplitude of jitter, not that all problems can be solved with image stabilization, of course, general image stabilization refers to the stabilization of normal shooting in the case of handheld.

It does not have stabilization. Tap the flash symbol in the upper left corner of the photo screen (Auto On Off).

The iPhone camera of the Apple 5 does not have the stabilization function, and the iPhone camera flash is turned off

Turn on the camera in your iPhone.

Go to the lightning bolt icon in the top left corner.

Turn off at the Automatic, On, and Off clicks.

When the lightning bolt icon is turned off next to the lightning bolt sign in the camera, the flash is turned off. That way, there won't be a flash when taking pictures.

In addition, when Auto is turned on, it will automatically turn on the flash fill light based on the low light in the surrounding environment. If the light is good, there will be no flash when taking pictures.