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This is not something that can be explained in a few words, pruning also involves stance, shaping, and it is best to buy a book or consult a local agricultural technician.
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How are family trellis grapes managed? The rural guy summarizes the management experience for everyone, come and see.
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Look at the planting in **, as well as the variety, size and so on.
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Shrink the pile. If you do not leave a certain length of stump when thinning and shrinking, it is easy to cause branch rot. The length of the stump should depend on the size of the diameter of the branches, and the stump of 2 3 cm long should be left when thinning the annual vines; When thinning large branches, depending on their diameter, they leave centimeter-long stumps.
When shrinking and pruning, a part of the bud eyes should be appropriately left as a reserve bud eye on the basis of the predetermined number of buds.
Less damage to the main vine. The main vine is the main organ that stores nutrients. If the damage to the main vine is too much and too heavy, it will not only cause the main vine to rot, but also affect its growth potential and fruit set.
Therefore, the wounds on the main vine should not be too close to each other when pruning, and the wounds on the main vine should not be too close to each other, and the wounds on the mouth should be avoided. After pruning, the pruning mouth should be closed with callus antiseptic film in time to prevent wound decay.
Wound protection. For large wounds with a diameter of more than 2 cm caused by the renewal of old vines and wounds on the main vine, in order to avoid wound infection with germs, 3 potassium permanganate solution plus new high-lipid film or 1% calcium chloride solution plus new high-lipid film should be applied after pruning for disinfection and protection.
Spring shearing. The stump left during winter pruning has different lengths due to the different diameter and size of the branches, especially for the long stub of the 1-year-old vine, which can be cut off when wiping buds in spring.
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Grape pruning is as follows:
Tools: vines, scissors.
1. In the spring, the pruning of the vine is mainly to wipe the buds and prune, cut off all the multi-headed buds on the branches and the thin buds with poor growth, and remove the sprouting tiller buds, and then prune the shoots on the side branches, leaving only a small amount of strong shoots to let them absorb nutrients and grow.
2. In summer, it is generally necessary to carry out topping at this time, and set the tips after the vine grows inflorescences, so that it can climb and grow fixedly, and then carry out topping treatment to remove the tender shoots and excess leaves, so that its branches can better bloom and bear fruit.
3. In autumn, the vine is mainly topped and branches thinned, and the overly lush branches are topped twice to make the branches grow luxuriantly, and the dense branches and diseased branches are thinned to maintain a good ventilation environment and sufficient sunlight.
4. The pruning methods of grape vines mainly include the thinning method of pruning off weak and redundant branches, the short tip pruning of 2 3 small buds of small trees, the middle tip pruning of 3 5 buds and the long tip pruning of 6 12 buds on the main vine, and the renewal and pruning of branches can be carried out to make the grape branches grow well.
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The following are the general steps and precautions for grape pruning:
1.Tool preparation: Pruning with sharp pruning shears (scissor-type or scissor-type pruning shears). Make sure the pruning shears are clean to reduce the risk of wound infection.
3.Pruning objectives: The goal of pruning is to adjust and control the morphology of the vines, to maintain the proper growth balance and to develop a firm spike. Mainly prune useless, pests and diseases, simple and intertwined branches.
4.Principle 1: Remove the base: Remove the branches at the base, including dead, diseased and insect-eaten branches. Make sure the remaining shoots are healthy and vigorous.
5.Principle 2: Preserve the main branches: Retain the main branches or trunks, which are the main branches that produce the ears. Trim their length to adjust the height and control of the plant's oversized pants.
6.Principle 3: Reduce Side Branches: Reduce the number and length of side branches to reduce wasteful growth and promote ear development. Keep 2-3 buds on each side branch and cut short to the length of 2-3 buds.
7.Pay attention to pest and disease prevention: When pruning, pay attention to prevent the spread and invasion of pests and diseases. After each pruning, the branches and garbage generated by pruning are cleaned and disposed of in a timely manner.
Different grape varieties and cultivation purposes may require different pruning methods and philosophies. If you are not familiar with a particular grape variety or pruning technique, it is advisable to consult a professional viticultural technician or refer to the relevant cultivation guide. Pruning needs to be done with care, trying to avoid over-pruning or cutting healthy shoots, which can adversely affect the growth and yield of the vines.
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The first step is to prune the short shoots, which can be cut short at 2-3 pairs of buds of the vine to help with nutrient absorption. This is followed by long-tip pruning, which is mainly aimed at the excessively long branches on the vine. Then there is the renewal of double branches, the branches grow too densely and need to be pruned in time to avoid excessive loss of nutrients, and the main is slightly topped, which can induce winter sprout fruiting.
The first is to prune the short shoots, which can be pruned in short sections at 2-3 pairs of buds of the vine, which helps the seedlings to absorb nutrients, mainly for 1-2 year old vines. If there is a lack of plants, you can prune it slightly in 3-5 pairs of buds to make the growth space of the branches more even.
This is followed by long-tip pruning, which is mainly aimed at overgrown shoots on the vine. Choose a location where there are 6-12 pairs of buds on the vine and cut 6-10 cm of branches, otherwise too long branches will block the light of the bottom branches, so that the overall growth of the vine is not good.
Once it is found that the branches on the grape trellis are too dense, it is necessary to prune the branches and buds at 1-2 degrees of growth, and keep 2-3 buds to avoid excessive nutrient loss. Too many shoots will absorb too much nutrients, which will affect the nutrient absorption of the vine and cause it to grow slowly.
In addition, in order to induce the round and stupid winter sprouts to bear fruit, it is necessary to topping the main and secondary topping, and only retain the top 1-2 pairs. It is advisable to choose 6-8 or 8-10 nodes above the inflorescence for topping of the main shoot, and temporarily retain the secondary tip at the top of the main shoot. Try to choose new shoots that grow strongly, weak shoots will not give you the best results.
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Grape pruning method: wiping buds, topping, pinching inflorescences, pruning shoots.
1. Wipe the buds
The most important part of grape pruning is to wipe the buds, and only after successful bud wiping can the vines really grow in the direction you need. This is when the vine has just grown to 3 cm, and all the delicate branch buds and useless hidden buds are removed. In the case where the main bud is a triple bud of twin buds, only one branch bud should be left for growth.
2. Fixed-tip topping
After the budding is done, the tip needs to be fixed, which is to fix the vine to the support it is going to climb. It is only when the vine grows to 20 cm that the inflorescence is seen and the shoot is set. Soon after, topping is required, which is a way to increase the fruit rate and grape size, and only needs to leave 6-7 leaves for the early inflorescence.
3. Remove the secondary tips and pinch the inflorescence
After topping the new shoots, there will be a phenomenon of excessive growth of secondary tips, and we need to trim these secondary tips. Except for leaving 2 acres of front and side tips at the top, all the others can be pinched. 3-5 days before the grapes bloom, we also remove the weak branches of the grapes 1 4 years.
This will also increase the yield of the grapes.
4. Prune branches and buds
It is best to wait until the vines are already in full bloom in the summer, and to cut off all the new branches and buds that have grown out of the mess. In this way, it is conducive to the growth of the main branches. Especially when the vine is already producing small grapes, don't let the new shoots absorb the nutrients that the grapes need to absorb.
It is necessary to constantly cut off the newly grown branches with tendrils.
Two kinds of pruning times for grapes
1. Summer scissors
In fact, grape pruning generally has two suitable times, one is to prune the vines in the summer, when the grapes are at their most vigorous. Because by this time the vines have already begun to produce small grapes. If you don't prune it in time, the nutrients of the grapes will be absorbed by the new shoots that grow and absorb a lot of nutrients, so that the grapes will not only become smaller, but also have a smaller yield.
2. Winter scissors
Many people don't understand that the vines are already bare in winter, and cutting the vines at this time doesn't seem to have any effect. In fact, it is necessary to cut the vines in winter, and it can also help the vines to hibernat, and the fallen leaves that have not fallen can only be cut off so that the vines can enter real hibernation. Only then will the vines grow better in the spring.
And because grapes sprout in spring, if you don't cut off some of the extra shoots in the winter and wait until the spring to regenerate some new shoots, the vine will grow upside down! In fact, the so-called winter pruning is to try to keep only the main vine of the grapes, and a small number of winter buds, which is convenient for nutrients to concentrate, and wait until spring to grow the most suitable new shoots.
The quality of the grapes, the timing and the process of fermentation all play a key role in the quality of the wine.
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