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The hare has a quirk, which is that he likes to go the old way. As long as you are not disturbed and frightened, you will walk the same road every day when you go back and forth to the nest to eat, and as time goes by, you will step on a faintly recognizable path between the wheat ridges. We went to the field during the day to reconcon the path of the hares, and in the evening we used thin wire loops to make some loopers slightly larger than the rabbit's head, tied them to the wooden pegs and nailed them to the side of the hare's path, and adjusted the height of the wire sleeve so that it was four or five centimeters above the ground, so that the rabbit could get its head into it when it passed.
As soon as the day is dark, the rabbit will come out of the hole to forage for food, because its eyes are on both sides of the head and the observation ability of the front is not strong, and it can't notice the wire sleeve hanging in front of it, and the head will be ** firmly when it gets in. **The rabbit only knows how to move forward, but does not know the truth of taking a step back to open the sky, and the more he struggles, the tighter he gets, until he loses consciousness. The next morning, I went to pick rabbits at dawn, and if I was lucky, I could get four or five rabbits in one night.
There are also those who have not mastered the technique of setting rabbits and drive agricultural tricycles out to "photograph" rabbits. The bright headlights scan around the field, and if they spot a rabbit, they use the headlights to cover it. The rabbit likes to run within the range of the headlights, and it will never take the initiative to run into the boundless darkness that the lights do not shine on, so once it is illuminated, it will inevitably not escape the fate of being caught.
The most interesting thing is that after the heavy snowfall, the thick snow obscures all ground signs, and the rabbit gets lost and can't find his home. During the day, the sun warms up a layer of snowflakes, and at night it forms a layer of ice on the surface. The children got up early in the morning and ran on this layer of thin ice, and the startled rabbits were panicked and ran desperately but always couldn't recognize a direction, and as a result, they couldn't escape the children's joint round-up when they rushed left and right, and finally they were so tired that they couldn't run, and they lay on the ground and obediently "tied their feet and caught".
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It is best to raise it from the first full moon, which is easy to train. If it is an adult rabbit, it is difficult to feed, and the wild nature is difficult to change.
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OK. The hare can be raised, it is a herbivorous animal, mainly eating wild grasses, leaves or sweet potato vines. The feed is more extensive, and the cost of breeding is relatively low.
It is more resistant to disease, has a high survival rate, and is easier to breed than rabbits.
The reproductive ability of hares is relatively strong, female rabbits can give birth to 6-8 litters per year, and each litter can give birth to 7-8 litters, and they can be marketed after about three months.
Precautions for hare breeding:
1. Artificial domestication. Hares mostly live in mountainous areas, wild, fast running, not easy to catch manually, even if they are successfully caught, they will refuse to feed because they are timid and afraid of people, and they are not easy to survive, let alone breed and breed. Therefore, the first thing to do in captive breeding hare is to domesticate, and only after successful domestication can artificial breeding be carried out.
2, environmental sanitation in the breeding should first keep the breeding environment clean and hygienic, hare like a dry environment, avoid dark and damp, polluted environment, grow in this environment, hare is very susceptible to disease, serious resulting in a large number of deaths.
Therefore, it is necessary to regularly clean the rabbit cage and rabbit house every day, clean up the excrement and residual bait, regularly clean the breeding utensils, and take disinfection measures to inhibit the growth and reproduction of bacteria and microorganisms.
3. Keep the environment quiet. Hares are timid and easily frightened, extremely sensitive, and the slightest movement will make them frightened, which will affect their growth and development, so do not easily catch or make loud noises when breeding.
In addition, the breeding place should be kept away from residential areas, highways and other areas, try to keep the environment quiet, and also pay attention to the harassment of cats, dogs, rats, etc.
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Can be fed but must be carefully cared for The body of the hare is more delicate The requirements for the environment and food hygiene are relatively high The hare is afraid of the cold Be sure to pay attention to keeping warm A hare I raised was frozen to death In addition, there are two ways to feed the hare The first is mandatory feeding You can use skim milk mixed with a syringe Slowly push against the rabbit's mouth Be careful not to feed too much Second, put it in a quiet place People leave immediately after putting food Note that the ambition is still there after the hare is raised Pay attention to care.
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Yes, but it's not easy to raise.
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<> if it is a young hare, it is generally easier to feed. If it is an adult hare, it is generally difficult to feed, because after the hare comes to an unfamiliar environment, it is easy to produce a stress response and refuse to eat, and when the hare is overly frightened, it is possible that the intracranial pressure will increase, and the cerebral blood vessels will burst and die.
1. Whether the hare can be fed
<> if it is a young hare, it is generally easier to feed. If it is an adult hare, especially an adult male hare, it is generally difficult to feed, because after the hare leaves the familiar environment and comes to the unfamiliar environment, it is easy to produce a stress response due to panic, resulting in increased intracranial pressure and cerebrovascular bursting and death. In addition, hares that come to an unfamiliar environment will generally refuse to eat.
Second, the key points of hare breeding
1. Breastfeeding. 1) If it is a young hare that has not been weaned, it needs to be fed first.
2) Prepare a 20ml syringe, a carton of pure milk or pure goat's milk, a water cup with warm water, then use the syringe to draw a tube of goat's milk or milk, and put the syringe into the water cup to heat the milk, and finally put the syringe next to the hare's mouth, and slowly push the syringe (you need to observe the hare swallowing action when pushing to avoid choking).
2. Feeding environment.
1) The wild nature of the hare is full, so it is required to have a large space for movement (if it is caged, the cage is required to be large enough).
2) The surrounding environment requires to be quiet to avoid hares fleeing in all directions due to fright.
3. Food and drinking water.
1) Hare prefer to eat plant-based feed, especially pasture. In addition, you can also feed an appropriate amount of vegetables and fruits, but the amount of feeding should not be too much, because the water content and sugar content of vegetables and fruits are high, which is easy to cause diarrhea.
2) In the hare activity space, place a water basin and put an appropriate amount of water in it for the hare to drink.
4. Disease. 1) Hares are prone to diarrhea during the feeding process, and gentamicin can generally be used**, and then probiotics are used to regulate the stomach.
2) Regularly inspect the body of the hare, once coccidiosis is found, it needs to be carried out as soon as possible**.
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Hares are solitary and have no burrows, and they rely on fast running to escape danger, reaching speeds of up to 50 kilometers per hour. So how much do you know about how hares are raised? The following is the content of how to raise hares compiled by me, I hope you like it!
1. Feed diversification, reasonable collocation, should be more soybean feed, grasses, Asteraceae plants, mainly green fodder, feed about one or two concentrated feed every day. According to the nutrients contained, learn from each other's strengths and weaknesses to meet the growth and development of hares need a variety of nutrients, do not feed single, at the same time to prepare wintering materials, can be planted rye grass, radish and other green fodder.
2. Timing and quantification: Feeding should have a certain number of times, time and quantity, develop eating habits, and do not be hungry or overeating, so as to avoid digestive tract diseases.
3. Pay attention to hygiene, antiseptic and mildew-proof: the rabbit cage is swept every day, the rabbit manure is removed every day, the feeding equipment is selected, the bedding is changed frequently, the disinfection is carried out regularly, the rabbit house is kept clean and dry, the feed quality is paid attention to, the feed is not fed with mildew, rot and toxic feed, and the drinking water should be clean.
4. Group management and strengthen sports: according to age, gender and production methods, the hare is often exercised to maintain its wildness.
5. Feeding and management of rabbits: from birth to weaning, rabbits are characterized by incomplete body development and rapid growth, poor regulatory function, weak adaptability and small resistance. According to its growth and development characteristics, feeding management is divided into two stages, namely sleep period and eye opening period.
1. Nocturnal and sleepy, so in addition to feeding, there should be less alarm during the day.
2. Timid and suspicious, panic as soon as there is movement, so the rabbit house should be kept quiet;
3. Tired of tide and dryness;
4. Burrowing and rodent behavior, rabbits love to dig holes in the soil, gnaw wood, choose appropriate materials when building, smooth cages, leave no edges and corners, and put branches for them to bite.
1) Learn rabbit raising techniques. It is necessary to buy some rabbit breeding materials, systematically learn the theory of rabbit breeding, and understand the biological characteristics of rabbits. You can ask experts from colleges and universities, scientific research institutes, and farmers with many years of experience in raising rabbits for advice and accept their suggestions.
It is best to participate in rabbit breeding technology training courses and visit and practice in well-known rabbit farms for 1 to 2 weeks.
2) Do a good job of market research. Before the introduction, it is necessary to learn about the situation from the authorities and authoritative sources. For example, learn from the foreign trade department about the international market, the sales and prospects of various products of leather rabbits, meat rabbits and hairy rabbits; Learn from the animal husbandry department about the characteristics of different breeds and what good rabbit farms are available in the local area; Learn about the operation of rabbit farms from the relevant rabbit farms, and what experiences and lessons are learned.
In this way, you can decide the variety, quantity and development plan you want to buy.
3) Build a cage. Before raising rabbits, build a rabbit house, rabbit cage, prepare relevant utensils, such as food basins, water basins, birth boxes, etc., and comprehensively clean and disinfect a week before entering the rabbit, so that the rabbits will have a comfortable "home" as soon as they enter the field.
4) Prepare feed. Roughage, concentrate and minerals and additives commonly used in rabbits should be prepared for more than 1 month. Before entering the rabbit, the formula should be formulated according to the rabbit farm in the place of origin of the rabbit, and the feed should be prepared so that the newly introduced rabbit will not cause adverse reactions due to changes in feed.
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Yes! Rabbits are a bit like cats and have an independent personality, but they can be clingy and afraid of loneliness at times, so be sure to make time to play with it every day.
If there is no safe space to keep it (e.g. a balcony), it can also be kept in a cage with a large space (a cage for small dogs). It is not allowed to be kept in a cage all the time, and it must be released for more than half an hour every day.
Prepare a feed bowl and a water bowl in the cage, a 10 cm straight clean wood head for it to grind its teeth, and put some dry wood chips and straw (no dry towels are fine).
Rabbits are omnivorous and need to be fed once in the morning and evening. Rabbit feed can be bought at the bird park, and some cereal or teeth grinding feed can be added to the feed.
For the sake of balanced nutrition, do not only feed the feed, but also sometimes feed fruits and vegetables, such as water spinach, celery, cabbage, sweet potato leaves, carrots, apples, paratin...Wait a minute. Due to the poor function of rabbits, it is best to do without pesticides, and after washing, put it in a ventilated place to dry for 1 2 hours (do not expose to the sun), and then wipe the remaining water with a paper towel.
Also, rabbits need to drink water, and they can't be given raw water, it must be boiled water. If feeding, water can be put more. Feeding and destroying fruits and vegetables means that there is less water.
Also, the rabbit is very well-behaved, and in the cage it will be convenient in a fixed place (usually in the corner on the other side where the feed is placed), so you can be under the cage? Newspaper (preferably white newspaper, because rabbits sometimes bite newspapers, and the ink on the newspaper is not good for rabbits), in that corner of its convenience? several layers.
Rabbit urine is very smelly and has a lot of volume, so you should change the newspaper often, about once every two days, otherwise it will spread soon"Fragrance", the rabbit will not be able to stand it either.
You can also make a fixed toilet outside the cage, prepare a carton for Western-style cakes, cut it into an L shape (remove the upper half and one side) and put a few more layers of newspaper, and clean up the soiled newspaper immediately when the rabbit runs out of urine, otherwise it will not be booing in the same place.
As for how to teach a rabbit to be fixed outside the cage conveniently, just like teaching a puppy to be convenient, rabbits are smarter than dogs in this regard, and it will be enough to teach them once or twice.
Too much of the rabbit's emotions is for Shunyu. When it finds that there is no food in the bowl, it knocks over all the bowls and makes a noise? You're hungry.
When it stomps on you, you have to self-reflect. Because when a rabbit steps on its hind feet, it is angry or warns of danger to its companions.
Don't underestimate the intelligence of the rabbit, when you get to know it, you will find that its intelligence is sometimes more than that of people.
The lifespan of a rabbit is about 6 years, so please cherish every period you spend with it.
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*Rabbits can be kept outdoors**. But raising rabbits outdoors requires the following to be aware of:
1.Rabbits' hutches need to be spacious and able to protect them from the weather and predators. It is recommended that the rabbit house should have an isolation space in order to isolate and ** diseases.
2.Rabbits are very sensitive to hot and humid environments, so it is advisable to choose a cool, dry area for the rabbit house. To place a rabbit hutch during the summer months, make sure the rabbit has enough water and shade.
3.Rabbits need to be provided with plenty of food and water. When keeping rabbits outside, you need to make sure they always have plenty of hay, water and some fresh fruit and vegetables.
4.Attention needs to be paid to safety issues. When keeping rabbits outdoors, it is important to ensure that the surrounding environment is safe and that predators such as dogs, cats, foxes, and other factors that threaten their health and life can harm them.
5.It is necessary to regularly check the health status of rabbits, including the health of fur, eyes, tooth chain, ears, etc., and if any abnormalities are found, corresponding measures can be taken in time to ensure their health.
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