I m a novice in oil painting, and I want to ask the old bird how to brush the foundation

The following are the steps to make the oil painting base:

1. Break the rabbit skin glue first, then soak it in water for 6 hours, put about 7% 10% glue in the water (of course, this depends on the hot and cold conditions of the weather, if the weather temperature is high, add more water at this time), sometimes it is advisable to use a little water to soak the rubber in the hands first, and then mix with water.

2. The water temperature of the glue is between 25 and 30, and when the temperature drops to 17, you can scrape the glue on the canvas. Place the inner frame nailed to the canvas with the picture facing up, pour the rabbit skin glue on the middle side of the canvas, scrape the glue horizontally with a special spatula, and then spread it up and down, left and right, until the entire canvas is scraped with glue.

3. Pay attention to the temperature of the glue during the squeegeeing process, the action should be agile and fast when squeegeeing, and finally the glue that seeps into the back of the canvas must be scraped off. Place the scraped canvas in a ventilated place.

After drying, use a pumice stone or sandpaper to gently sand off the small hairy knots on the canvas, and when there are convex huddles on the canvas, you can place the canvas on the smooth slate in reverse, and gently hit it with a small hammer.

4. We know that the glue on the bottom layer of the canvas plays two roles: on the one hand, it is to glue the small hairs on the canvas to cover, and on the other hand, it is to block the fine pores of the canvas to prevent the pigment from penetrating the bottom of the painting.

Squeegee is the most difficult step in the process of making a painting base, and it is very important to control the temperature of the glue. If the glue temperature is high, the glue will seep into the back of the canvas, and the glue temperature is low and the scraping is uneven, and the combination effect with the canvas is not good. We usually use latex rubber when squeegeeing, and latex rubber is sensitive to heat, alcohol, etc., so rabbit skin glue should be used.

5. After the glue base is dry, if the canvas is lightly scratched with a fingernail on the back side of the canvas, there is a cracking sound, which means that too much glue is used, and the picture is easy to crack in the future, which is an unqualified glue base. After the rubber base is done, scrape the oily base or rubber base on it as needed.

Materials required: canvas, linen or canvas, brushes, base,

Steps: 1. After a piece of high-quality linen or canvas is tightly stretched on the frame, first brush the canvas base material (a milky white acrylic liquid, elastic after drying, not afraid of folding), this layer is the lowest line of defense of the oil painting canvas, which is to prevent the front of the oil painting from penetrating into the bottom surface and contact with the canvas, and also to prevent moisture from invading from the back side of the canvas, which is a very important isolation layer.

2. After the base material is dry, apply a canvas coating, which is a white acrylic emulsion, which is insoluble in water and other liquids after drying.

3. After the first coat of paint is dry, then brush the second coat of paint, if you want to paint a flat effect, the canvas has been made at this time.

4. If you want to make the oil painting completely non-absorbent and shiny, you can brush the base material again after the second coating, and then use it after it is dry.

I first brushed a thin layer of white latex to dry thoroughly, and then brushed lithop powder and white latex to dry, and then brushed a layer of white latex Done! However, pay attention to the second time, polish flat, and then brush the white latex. . . It's perfect...

Go buy paint, the white kind, if it's sketch paper or something, you can use acrylic. Buy a larger scraper, pour the paint on a cloth or paper, use the scraper to spread the paint in the same direction and let it dry.

If you don't add water to the latex, use a long spatula to scrape it on the canvas, and if you want to add water thinly, apply a layer with a brush, and then apply another layer when it is dry.

After the latex is dry, the holes in the linen are almost filled, and if you still have holes in this light, you can do the above steps again.

Then you can go directly to buy Windsor or Mary's base and brush it once or twice to be thinner and dry and you can paint it, but if you want to be less absorbent, then brush it all over the wet latex, which is an easy way to buy a finished cloth It's okay to use it if you want that kind of classical production method... Can only tell you that it is very complicated.

It's easy to brush a thin layer of white latex first to dry it thoroughly and then brush it again.

Oil paintings, whether painted on wood or canvas, need to be painted with a base, and there are two types of materials used for the base: adhesive material and filling material. Depending on the material, there are eight methods of making the base for classical oil paintings.

1) Rubber sole. The ancient masters often used animal glue, such as bone glue, rabbit glue, etc. The best is parchment glue, which can be soaked in water, heated and melted.

2) Chalk base. Chalk (calcium carbonate) powder, zinc white powder, and glue solution are mixed with one part each.

3) Semi-chalky base. Mix one part chalk powder and one part gel solution. Add half of cooked flaxseed oil and apply a base layer with 7 water glue before using this base.

4) Casein base. Since ancient times, there have been records of fine arts, and painters have used casein. Casein is a brittle and soft substance that needs to be diluted with water and dissolved in a small amount of ammonium carbonate as a base.

5) Egg base. Egg yolk increases the softness of the base. The best results can be obtained when the yolk base is used as the final coating. Egg whites and yolks can be used as additives for chalk bases.

6) Plaster base. Gypsum (calcium sulfate) is also called light crystal. It is usually used as a base on a wooden board. It has abnormal brightness, and the preparation method is the same as that of chalk base.

7) Oily base. Same as making a semi-chalky base, only with an increased oil content (two parts cooked flaxseed oil).

8) Colored base. On the finished chalk, semi-chalk and oil base, according to the needs of the painter, various transparent colors are thinly applied to make the color base. Rubens once mixed charcoal, white pigment, and binder and applied it to a plaster base to make a silver gray base.

Start with the material?

Canvas, linen, of course, can also be painted on hard paper or wood, in fact, the earliest oil paintings were painted on wood, whether it is canvas or wood, it must be the base, otherwise the oil will be sucked away.

Pigments, there's nothing to talk about, just go to the painting material store and buy it, you don't need to buy a lot of bells and whistles, just buy a little more of the commonly used colors, white is the most used, as far as I'm concerned, green and purple are not used much, especially purple.

Paintbrushes, hard and soft can be prepared, hard is a bristle pen, soft is a wolf pen.

Toning oils, turpentine, and flax oil (remember to use cooked flax oil is the darker one), more complex ones you don't need now.

At the beginning, you don't need to stretch the canvas yourself, buy a ready-made frame of the cloth, but the bottom of the frame is not good, you have to process it, evenly wipe a few layers of milky white glue, remember to polish it when it is dry, and then buy 2 to 3 layers of oil painting ground material drawing, but also remember to polish, don't use too coarse sandpaper, it is recommended to use the base material of Tianjin Windsor Newton, the quality of Marley's is not as good as before, every time it is not very thick, but it must be even, and it must be smoothed.

After starting to paint, you will be familiar with the nature of the material and the original painting foundation.

Try to avoid the problem of "oil absorption" (although it is a little difficult), that is, if it is not made properly, the oil contained in the top layer of pigment will be absorbed by the paint or the bottom of the canvas, then the surface pigment will lose its luster and become dull and the color is not good-looking (deliberately pursuing this effect does not count) The basic principle is to wait for the surface of the lower layer of pigment to form a film before covering the new pigment, and it is also related to the bottom of the canvas.

Use transparent colors when starting the draft, mainly brown and ultramarine, which will not be turned over (colors like red and purple are too strong to be used for the draft, and they will gradually come through in the future, so be careful when using them).

Start painting with turpentine, and then slowly increase the proportion of flax oil, if you only use turpentine to paint the color is dull and the adhesion is not very good.

The actual painting technique is not fixed, depending on what you are suitable for, you can get in touch with it at the beginning, thick pile, thin painting, direct drawing and indirect painting (cover dyeing method).

Oil painting involves a concept of "production", many things will not be known without trying it yourself, and the use of the material itself is very particular, only more painting, more trying.

I can only talk to you about the materials and production, as for the painting itself, it's up to you, buy some books to see, paint more, it doesn't matter what you paint, even if the stinky socks that haven't been washed for a month are painted, it's a good painting, and you don't necessarily have to copy it first, but at the beginning, you still have to look at more good paintings, think about how people paint.

It doesn't matter if it's just for fun with your own drawing, but it's better to have someone teach you if it's for the exam.

The raw linen cloth cannot be directly copied into contact with the pigment, because the vegetable oil in the pigment will corrode the cloth fibers, and the cloth will become brittle and crack after a long time, so an important function of the painting base is to act as an isolation layer.

Sometimes we see a canvas with a primary color, as if we don't have a painting base, but in fact, this kind of cloth is brushed with transparent acrylic latex, which is something of the same nature as acrylic paint (acrylic paint = acrylic latex + pigment).

In addition to isolating the canvas and the pigment, the main function of the painting base is to combine the canvas and the pigment, the painting base can fill the rough gaps on the surface of the linen cloth and provide a flat surface for the pigment layer, and at the same time, the pore structure of the absorbent base itself can allow the dry vegetable oil in the pigment layer to penetrate, playing a role in the physical and mechanical combination.

In the classical period, oil-based painting bases were very commonly used, and this kind of painting base (lead white, red lead + cooked oil) could not directly touch the canvas, so there should be a layer of animal rubber sole between the canvas and the canvas to isolate.

No matter what material oil painting is painted on (canvas, wood, paper, wall, metal plate), it needs to have a foundation, and it cannot be painted directly.

Non-absorbent substrates are compared to highly absorbent substrates. It still has to be absorbent, to be precise, it should be called a weak absorbent base. If the base is as smooth as the glass surface. The paint can't be caught.

The attachment of the pigment to the canvas and the canvas depends on this physical grasping. That is, the bottom should have bumps.

What kind of painting on what basis: Painting delicate and neat paintings requires relatively high requirements for the concave and convex of the base, and it needs to be made many times. Delicate, flat, the surface looks smooth, but it is still absorbent.

At the same time, the requirements for pigments are also high, and the particles are fine. Painting directly or modern painting does not need to be so demanding.

Oil base: The base contains a certain amount of flax oil, mainly to reduce the absorption of the base. Facilitate the layer of conjunctiva.

The easiest way to do this is to use oil paint. But the oil content must be as small as possible. You can't let the base have an oil film before it is painted, then it will not be absorbed.

Slip with a pen. Adhesive base: Generally, you can paint by brushing a layer of glue on a rough canvas. Because the fiber of the canvas itself is relatively large, it is also possible to grasp and grasp only the glue in time.

But on a delicate canvas, you can't just brush the glue, the glue is not absorbed, so adding a little powder to the glue becomes foundation. The amount of powder controls the strength of absorption.

The base material has not been used. It's all about buying ready-made canvases directly.

The canvas you buy needs to be used as an oil painting base. Brush the canvas with white latex first, then with a white base. Depending on the canvas you bought, you need to brush it several times.

It also depends on what kind of oil painting you paint. The classification of canvases results in different textures and paintings on different canvases. Coarse-grained canvas painting realistic ones need to be brushed with white latex repeatedly.