The electric fan is powered on but holds the shaft, if it is not powered on, it is not held, the lub

The longest problem is that your motor is a bushing type, not a ball bearing, with a long time and not enough lubrication, the shaft sleeve will grind bigger, and the early lubrication will be better, and then it will be bigger, because it will sweep the hall, but the friction between the rotor and the stator is greater than the torque, the rotor will be sucked by the stator, and it can't be rotated, but if you adjust it carefully, you may be able to adjust it to the time of rotation, but the effect is not very good, whether you can hear the sound of when you power on at the moment If you can, that's it.

It's all dismantled and regrouped, it should be fine, but it's not clear where it's broken

This is usually due to a loosening of the seat of the previous bearing, resulting in a larger axial string. When the power is not applied, the rotor is in a state supported by the front and rear bearings, and its force is only the gravity of the earth, as long as there is enough lubrication, it behaves very smoothly. However, after the power is on, the rotor is displaced to the working position by the coil, and then a force is generated to push the displacement of the bearing, resulting in locking, without installing a fan, with the hand to assist the start, it can still work normally, the performance is also very smooth, and there is no abnormal noise.

But after adding the fan and toggling it to start, it will spin very slowly. The friction caused by the axial string due to rotation is reduced when there is no load, but after adding the fan, the eccentricity becomes larger, and every revolution will be affected by the greater friction in the displacement area and cannot speed up, so it is always maintained at a low speed. The main reason is to use electric fans with their heads down for a long time, so this problem usually appears on higher floor fans, and the whole structure is biased forward.

This structure is usually equipped with a mid-to-high-end product with a separate motor responsible for shaking the head, resulting in the rotor lever is not extended in the rear, so the center of gravity is more inclined to the front, and in long-term use for 5 to 10 years, the front shaft seat is prone to displacement and loosening. You can try lubricating the front and rear bearings, maybe it can be used normally. If the general special engine oil can not be effective, you can use the loosening agent first, add the rust debugging agent and then clean it, and then add grease to try, if it still cannot be used, the lubrication can not solve the problem.

If there is a problem with the connection of the motor coil, take it apart and check it well.

The capacitor on that is for starting.

There are several possibilities <> the fan does not turn:

1. The bearings at both ends of the motor are not well lubricated and cannot rotate freely. Due to the long-term lack of maintenance, the bearing and the motor shaft are dry grinding, the sludge is too thick, the resistance increases, and the motor torque is small, resulting in the motor can not work normally.

2. After the power is energized, the buzzing of the motor does not rotate, the reason is that the lead of the starting coil is broken, or the internal circuit of the starting coil is broken, resulting in the circuit not being able to pass and the motor cannot be started. It is necessary to rewind the motor or replace the motor of the same type. The starter capacitor is disconnected and not connected properly, or the starter capacitor is broken, and the capacitor of the same type needs to be replaced.

3. There is no response after power-on, check whether the fuse is broken, and then the main coil (running coil) is broken, and measure with a multimeter.

4. Due to the long use time, the motor shaft and bearing are seriously worn, and the motor rotor and stator are not concentric and scratch each other (commonly known as sweeping), and they are stuck with each other after being energized. Just hearing the buzz just doesn't turn. It is recommended to replace the motor bearings.

If the wiring is correct, the fan will not turn after changing the starting capacitor, and there are two reasons:

1. In the case of no power, rotate the motor shaft by hand, if the rotating shaft is very forceful and difficult to rotate, it means that the motor shaft is stuck, you can drop a few drops of gasoline or kerosene to clean it to make the shaft rotate easily, and then drop a few drops of engine oil or sewing oil to lubricate it.

2. If the shaft is rotated by hand, it is very easy to rotate, and it does not work if the capacitor is changed, it means that the motor may be broken, usually a certain winding of the motor has an inter-turn short circuit, or an open circuit. At this time, it is necessary to change a motor according to the original motor specifications and models.

Check that the plug of the electric fan power cord is in good contact.

Possible reasons: 1. The electric fan belongs to a single-phase motor, and there are two sets of winding coils in the single-phase motor, namely the running coil and the starting coil. The circuit diagram is as follows:

Check whether the 4 winding coils in the figure are normal, under normal circumstances, the resistance value of these two groups of coils is basically the same, the error can not be too large, too large means that the resistance value is small may have inter-turn short circuit phenomenon or has been burned.

2. The motor bearing lacks lubricating oil, resulting in the inflexible rotation of the wind blades, the oil pollution of the bearing is too dirty, and the resistance increases, or due to the serious wear of the motor bearing, the bearing clearance is too large, and the rotor and stator are stuck under the action of magnetic force after being energized, and the motor is just buzzing or not rotating. It is recommended to replace the motor bearings.

3. The city voltage is too low, the fan horsepower drops, it is difficult to start, and it cannot operate normally.

This may be a lack of oil in the motor bearing, you can drop a few drops of lubricating oil on the motor bearing. If you don't turn yet, turn the shaft by hand to see if it's not difficult to turn. If yes, then adjust the shaft so that it is exactly the center of the bearing.

The method of adjustment is to gently tap the shaft with a screwdriver until it is flexible when turned by hand.

If the capacitor of the hood fan is changed and still does not turn, there may be the following reasons:

1.Power failure: Check if the power supply is normal and the plug is loose or burned out.

2.Motor failure: The motor may have been damaged or burned out and the motor needs to be replaced.

3.Faulty switch: The switch may have been damaged or burned out, and the switch needs to be replaced.

4.Poor wire contact: Check if the wire is in good contact and whether it is loose or short-circuited.

5.Incorrect capacitor installation: Check if the capacitor is installed correctly and has good contact.

If none of the above methods can solve the problem, it is recommended to find a professional maintenance personnel for maintenance.

Summary. There is no problem with the electric fan, capacitor and wiring, but what is the reason for not turning, pro! Hello, happy to answer your <>

There are two reasons why the capacitor is good and energized, one is that it is blocked and stuck, and the other is that if the motor has a buzzing sound and does not rotate, there is a broken wire inside the motor, and a group of broken wires in the two windings. There is no buzz that the common line is broken. Hope mine can help you <>

Do you have any other questions?

There is no problem with the electric fan, capacitor and wiring, but what is the reason for not turning?

There is no problem with the electric fan, capacitor and wiring, but what is the reason for not turning, pro! Hello, happy to answer your <>

There are two reasons why the capacitor is good and energized, one is that it is blocked and stuck, and the other is that if the motor has a buzzing sound and does not rotate, there is a broken wire inside the motor, and a group of broken wires in the two windings. There is no buzz that the common line is broken. Hope mine can help you <>

Do you have any other questions?

When the power is turned on, I obviously hear a little sound in the motor, and then there is no movement.

The first is that the rotor of the motor is inflexible and stuck, and the second is that the starting capacitor fails or the starting winding is open. First of all, eliminate the first fault, turn the rotor of the motor by hand to see if it can rotate flexibly without power, and if the rotor is very flexible, measure the starting winding of the motor or replace the capacitor.

If there is a problem with the starting winding, I start it with my hand and there is no response, and the blades are very flexible.

The pro-start winding is not connected by the following two reasons, one is the opening of the starting winding Shao coil caused by the opening of the Qibao line, so that the motor can not be used normally, and the coil needs to be rewound. The second kind of single-phase motor starting winding is connected in series with a starting capacitor, and the capacitor is burned out, which will also cause the failure of the single-phase motor starting winding.

If there is a problem with the starting winding, I can start it manually.

Dear, there is a set of broken wires in the two windings. There is no buzz that the common line is broken.

It means that there is no problem with the capacitor, which should be caused by serious wear of the motor bearing or dry lubricating oil, or the motor coil has an inter-turn short circuit fault.

First of all, turn the motor shaft or fan blade by hand without power to see if the rotation is flexible? If there is resistance to rotation, it means that the motor bearing is seriously worn or the lubricating oil is dry, and the new bearing should be replaced or lubricated to make it rotate flexibly without resistance. When installing the fixed motor, it is necessary to tighten the screws diagonally, and it must be tightened gradually, not in one step, and at the same time, it is necessary to hit the shaft back and forth with a wooden handle driver to ensure that the shaft is concentric with the bearings at both ends, so that the rotation will be flexible and without resistance after fastening.

If it turns flexibly without resistance, there are several reasons:

First, the capacitor is damaged, and a new capacitor of the same capacity should be replaced. You have already replaced the capacitor, which means that there is no problem with the capacitor.

The second is that the coil has an inter-turn short circuit fault, and a multimeter can be used.

Measure the resistance of the running winding and the starting winding to judge whether it is good or bad. If the resistance value is not normal, it is better to use the new motor.

If you change the capacitor, it still can't start, it may be that the spindle lacks lubrication and the friction is too large to start, you can put a few drops of oil in the front and rear axle sleeves of the motor and try again.

The motor needs to be turned by hand, which indicates that there is contact between the rotating part and the fixed part. It may be that the bearings are worn or there is contact between the rotor and stator. It should be a lack of maintenance or a problem with the quality of the parts. Hope.

The starting winding burned out or an open circuit, so it is useless to change the capacitor.

The mechanical rotating part is dirty or obstructed, the rotational resistance is large, or there is a lack of oil.

That is, the capacitor is broken, and the capacitor of the same shape as the original is replaced. (It's boring to change the small, and it's big to burn the motor).

Your electric fan.

After replacing the starting capacitor, it still can't start, and the fault is as follows:

1. As we all know, the motor is a single-phase motor.

There is a group of starting coils in the single-phase motor, if the buzz after power-on, the fan does not rotate, can not start, first of all, the motor bearing lubrication is not good, the motor rotor bearings at both ends of the dry grinding, the resistance increases, it is difficult to start, sometimes it is good to dial it by hand, it is recommended to maintain it frequently, and fill the bearing with lubricating oil frequently.

2. The wire in the starting capacitor connection line has been broken and fallen off, and it has not been found, check whether the capacitor connection is firm.

Due to the fact that the starting coil is not open (open circuit), short circuit, and blackened (starting coil 3 4 in the figure), the motor cannot be started, indicating that the motor has been broken, and it is recommended to rewind the motor coil, or replace the motor of the same type.

4. The motor bearing is seriously worn, the radial clearance is too large, the motor rotor and the stator have the phenomenon of rubbing against each other, and after being energized, under the action of electromagnetism, they firmly adsorb each other, resulting in the rotor can not rotate, and it is recommended to replace the motor bearing.

5. Because the wire diameter of the transmission line is too thin and the voltage drop is too large, the mains voltage is too low (it is best to use a multimeter.

Measurement measurement), the fan cannot be started.

If the fan blade is flexible and cannot be started when the power is turned on (the temperature rise of the fan motor will rise for a while), it can be considered that the capacitor may be damaged, or the fan blade can be operated normally after the power is turned on (after a boost), and then it can be confirmed that the capacitor is damaged (or the motor starting coil is damaged).

Determine whether the new capacitor is good, try to change another one, if it doesn't work, it means that the motor starts the coil and opens the circuit, turn the shaft by hand when powering the motor to see if the motor can turn.

First of all, when there is no power, you should flip the blade by hand to see if the rotation is flexible?

If there is resistance to rotation, it should be caused by serious wear of the motor bearing or dry lubricating oil, and it should be replaced with a new bearing or lubricating grease to make it rotate flexibly without resistance.

If the rotation is flexible and there is no resistance, and the capacitor is also replaced, it should be that the motor coil has an inter-turn short circuit fault, and the motor should be replaced with a new one. You can use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the coil to judge the quality of the coil.

It may not be that the capacitor is broken, and most of the problems with the fan not rotating are that the motor is broken, so try to change the motor.

In this case, measure the motor to see if it is normal, whether the capacitance capacity is normal, and whether the bearing has grease

After the electric fan is energized, it does not turn humming, and it is generally systematic.

The starting capacitor is damaged, and the capacitor can be replaced.

It is also very simple to determine whether the capacitor is damaged, and if you use a stick to flick the fan blade, it can turn it is a problem of starting the capacitor.

Fan capacitors are generally divided into two categories: starting capacitors and working capacitors. The starting capacitor is to assist the motor to start when the motor starts, and it does not work when the motor is started; The operating capacitor is to assist the motor to run after the auxiliary motor is started, that is, it is still functional. The capacitance of an electric fan is generally a starting capacitor.

The electric fan can't turn up, and the fan blade is turned by hand, what is the reason? The old electrician teaches you how to repair and measure, practical electrician techniques!

If the fan is tossed flexibly by hand, it is likely that the capacitor is not working.

The reasons why the electric fan does not rotate and copy the hum sound may be:

BAY1, the main winding DU group or auxiliary winding is broken; 2. The capacitor is open or short-circuited; 3. The stator iron core rubs against the rotor; 4. The bearing is stuck.

The solution is that mechanical faults should be checked first, and then electrical faults. If the stator and rotor rub against each other, check whether there are foreign objects and metal chips blocking the air gap between the stator and the rotor.

For motors with spherical bearings, check their concentricity. If the concentricity is poor, the rotor will be easily absorbed by the stator after power-on, so that it cannot rotate and produce a humming sound, in this case, the concentricity of the spherical bearing should be adjusted. When adjusting, tap the end cover with a wooden hammer on one side, rotate the rotor shaft by hand on the other hand, and tighten the screws of the front and rear end covers when it can rotate flexibly, and then power on for inspection.

If the stator and rotor rub against each other due to bearing wear, the bearing should be replaced.