-
This difference is big, the former normal mode 50cm-infinity, can only focus correctly for distances above 50cm; The latter is normal 5cm-infinity and can be directly entered into macro focusing in normal mode, that is, it can be correctly focused at a distance of 5cm.
-
Ixus210 Normal: 5cm-infinity (wide angle) good! Focus is clear beyond 5cm.
The smaller the number, the better, according to the number you sent, the Ixus200is is ordinary: 50cm-infinity (wide angle). That is, the focus is clear from 50cm away, and it is not clear from within.
-
The ixus200is is also 5cm-infinity (wide angle).
This parameter refers to the range of focus, generally xxcm-infinity, xxcm refers to the closest focusing distance, a very useful parameter, especially in macro photography, such as taking a local close-up of a mouse.
If I don't have a problem with my understanding, the IXUS200IS and the IXUS210 are the same machine. IS stands for Optical Image Stabilization.
-
It should be a clerical error.,The wide-angle is usually within 30cm recently.。
-
To put it simply, when you press the shutter halfway, it will focus on the object in front of you (whether moving or stationary) at high speed, so that you are always in focus. The advantage is that you don't have to worry about focusing anymore, and you can just concentrate on framing, which is much more convenient.
-
Canon DSLRs have 4 focus modes.
They are one-shot autofocus
Artificial intelligence focus (AL FOCUS).
Artificial intelligence servo focus (al servo).
Manual focus (MF).
These 4 are for use when focusing in different scenes, so let's take a look at their functions separately
One-shot autofocus.
In this focusing mode, as soon as the shutter is pressed halfway, the small red dot in the camera's viewfinder will illuminate, indicating that the focus is complete.
If you want to adjust the focus point, you can toggle the dial next to the shutter, select the focus point and press the shutter halfway, and when the focus point is lit up and the focus is completed, press the shutter completely, and you can get a sharp focus**.
This focus mode is mainly used to shoot some still subjects, portraits, landscapes, etc., and is not suitable for shooting moving objects.
AI focus and AI servo focus.
These two focus modes are mainly used to shoot moving objects, such as competitions, animals, etc.
When the camera is set to AI focus or AI servo focus, the camera will intelligently recognize the moving object and make corresponding adjustments.
In AI focus mode, the focus operation is the same as single-shot autofocus. But if your subject starts moving, the camera will spot it right away and automatically switch to AI servo focus, switching between the two modes very quickly to ensure that you get a sharp focus**.
In the AI servo focus mode, the camera continuously focuses on moving objects to ensure accurate focusing.
It is especially suitable for shooting sports games where it is difficult to maintain accurate focus.
Manual focus. Most DSLR lenses have a manual focus and autofocus toggle button, and the words AF and MF on the lens are the manual focus toggle button.
In manual focus mode, you can select the focus point by rotating the focus ring on the lens.
This mode is mainly used in low-light, low-contrast environments or scenes with complex graphics, because in these cases, the camera's autofocus system will fail and it will not be able to find the focus of preparation.
In these situations, the best way to do this is to use manual focus, rotating the focus ring on the lens to select the prepared focus point while looking at the scene to be shot from the viewfinder.
-
The scientific name of focus in English is focus, and usually digital cameras have a variety of focusing methods, namely autofocus, manual focus, and multi-focus methods.
Autofocus: Traditional cameras use a method similar to visual ranging to achieve autofocus, the camera emits a kind of infrared (or other rays), determines the distance of the subject according to the reflection of the subject, and then adjusts the lens combination according to the measured results to achieve autofocus. This method of autofocus – direct, fast, easy to implement, and low cost – but sometimes it can be wrong (autofocus is not possible when there is something else between the camera and the subject, such as glass, or in low light), and is not very accurate, and is generally not used in today's high-end cameras.
Because the camera actively emits rays, it is called active, and because it is actually only a distance measurement, and does not judge whether it is correctly focused through the actual imaging of the lens, it is also called non-TTL type.
Compared with active autofocus, this focusing method later developed passive autofocus, that is, judging whether it is correctly focused according to the actual imaging of the lens, and the basis for judging is generally contrast detection, and the specific principle is quite complex. Because this method is achieved by lens imaging, it is called TTL autofocus. Because this autofocus method is based on lens imaging, it has high focusing accuracy and a low error rate, but it is technically complex, slower (except for advanced autofocus lenses with ultrasonic motors), and high cost.
Manual focus: manual focusing, it is a way of focusing by manually turning the focus ring to adjust the camera lens so that the shooting is clear, which largely depends on the human eye's judgment of the image on the focusing screen and the photographer's proficiency and even the photographer's vision. Early SLR cameras and rangefinder cameras basically used manual focus to complete the focusing operation.
Today's quasi-professional and professional digital cameras, as well as DSLR digital cameras, are equipped with manual focus function to meet different shooting needs.
Multi-focus: Many digital cameras have a multi-point focus, or area-focus function. When the focus center is not set at the ** center, you can use multi-point focus, or multi-focus.
In addition to setting the position of the focus point, you can also set the focus range, so that users can shoot different effects**. Common multi-point focuses are 5-point, 7-point, and 9-point focus.
Holographic autofocus.
-
To put it simply, the purpose of the focus point is to facilitate the composition of the picture, so that the subject of the picture can be accurately focused in any position.
For example, if you are photographing a butterfly fluttering among the flowers, the butterfly flies from the bottom left to the top right from the viewport. You're using burst mode; A total of 5 ** shots were taken, and the butterfly wings of each ** were photographed very clearly; That's where multi-point focus comes into play.
This means that when the subject (butterfly) moves anywhere in the frame without moving the scene (flowers), the multi-point focus function causes the focus to follow the subject, and the subject is always focused on the subject no matter how the subject moves in the frame.
The function of the multi-point focusing system, which is mainly used to photograph moving objects, is particularly important.
-
The main thing is that it's easy to use, the more AF points there are, the more convenient it is to use, and the less opportunities you need to reframe your shot.
For example, if you want to shoot a portrait and want to choose the focus on the person's eyes, the composition requires the person not to be in the picture**.
In this case, for models with less focus points, there is no focus point to choose from, so you have to focus the human eye in the area where you can focus, then readjust the composition, and finally shoot.
Hello, I'm a photographer, I'll answer you The amount of focus depends on the camera's focusing system As for 51 points, he will make it more convenient for you to focus There is some convenience for use The focusing speed depends on your focusing system and lens 5D2 is only 9 o'clock Yes, it's the same effect for **.
Bonus points.
-
Hello, I'm a photographer, I'll answer you The amount of focus depends on the camera's focusing system As for 51 points, he will make it more convenient for you to focus There is some convenience for use The focusing speed depends on your focusing system and lens 5D2 is only 9 o'clock Yes, it's the same effect for **.
-
Cross-type focus, which is less susceptible to the shape and pattern of the subject, provides powerful subject capture capabilities.
Even slight hand shake or movement of the main subject can easily cause the AF point being focused to deviate from the main subject. The addition of AF-capable focus points enables more reliable capture of the main subject.
Reduces deviation when detecting subjects.
When a subject covers more than one AF point, multiple focus points can be used to capture the subject to prevent drop-off. It can be used when you want to capture a leading competitor running towards the camera, such as sports photography, or a single subject in intense sports. It is also suitable for snapshots where shutter timing is important.
-
The focal length segment of lens zoom can be divided into three main categories:
Ultra) wide angle. Medium telephoto.
If the focal length number is less than 35mm, it can be called a wide angle, and the next step below 35 usually refers to 28, and 28mm is usually the starting focal length of the wide angle; The smaller the value, the greater the wide angle; For example, -24 and the like, the zoom range is below 35, which is ultra-wide. This type of lens is mainly used to shoot ultra-wide angle scenery pp
The mid-focus zoom is about 35-100. This is the most commonly used focal length, portrait, landscape, etc., such as 35-105, 28-112, etc.
The zoom range of a telephoto is usually 100 - infinity, such as -30080-400 and so on, suitable for shooting long-distance scenery such as birds;
Fixed focus refers to lenses that cannot be zoomed, such as: 35mm, 50mm, 60mm, 85mm, 105mm, etc., such lens framing mainly depends on walking.
However, the prime lens usually has a larger aperture, which is larger than the zoom, and the imaging is better, suitable for portraits, etc., but if the prime lens is used, a camera needs countless fixed focus lenses of various focal lengths, which is why the zoom lens appears. (Professional photographers usually use more prime heads).
The -200 that the landlord said, according to the focal length, should belong to the category of zoom medium focus and zoom small telephoto respectively. The 18-55 of them have an entry-level wide angle, both of which appear to be dog heads. If it's a Nikon, on an APS-C SLR, the focal length needs to be *x, which is equivalent to the focal length, with an entry-level wide angle, and if it's a Canon, on the APS-C's SLR, the focal length needs to be *x, which is equivalent to, and also with an entry wide-angle.
55-200 should also be * and times respectively. The actual focal length is and 88-320.
-
The focal length is the usual parameters such as 55mm, 50mm, and 70mm, which simply means the distance between the two imaging curved lenses of the lens, and the larger the magnification, the greater the magnification. In the case of a prime lens, this focal length is fixed, so the fixed focal head is of this specification, and 18mm-55mm is a range of focal lengths called focal length.
And the zoom head, because the focal length can be telescopic within a certain focal length (using it is like a telescope can be zoomed in or out), they use the focal length to mark their specifications, such as 18-55, 17-70, 24-70, 70-200, these are more classic lens specifications, take 18mm-55mm, his minimum focal length is 18mm, the maximum focal length is 55mm, 18mm is a very small focal length, the magnification is very small, and the field of view seen through the lens is very wide, It is usually called a wide angle. Refers to a wide field of view. For example, the maximum focal length position of 55mm-220mm is 220mm, and the magnification of this focal length is very large.
You can only see a part of the distant object, not the panorama. This type of focal length is called a telephoto.
Generally, 35-70mm is a medium focal length, which is used most daily. The 14-24mm field of view is very wide, and it is mainly used for shooting landscapes. and outdoors.
-
Prime and zoom are the concepts of a lens: a prime lens is a lens that has only one fixed focal length, and its field of view is fixed. A zoom lens is a camera lens that can change the focal length within a certain range, so as to obtain different width and narrow field of view, different sizes of images and different scenes range.
Focal length annotation ranges such as 18-55 55-220 are zoom lenses, and the zoom range of the lens is marked.
Focal length refers to the range of variation in the focal length of a zoom lens.
-
In DSLR digital cameras, the focus mode is one of the most important parameters when shooting, which is directly related to the sharpness, depth of field and other factors. Here are the steps to select the focus mode:
1.First, you'll need to turn on your camera and go to the menu to select the remaining items.
2.Select the focus option, which in most cameras is usually found in the menu"af"Options. Click on this option.
3.Before selecting the focus area, you should consider the size and location of the target. If your eyesight is small, select the Single Point Focus mode to ensure that the camera is focused accurately.
4.For moving targets, you can use the Focus Tracking mode to keep the lens tracking the target and keep the focus accurate.
5.For scenes that require a clear view of the entire frame, such as a scenic tour or a large scene, you can use the Manual Focus mode to manually adjust the focus of the lens.
6.Before you choose to shrink or expand the area of focus, select a large area of focus. You can resize the focus to the size you want. This option allows you to quickly select the focus area for the camera.
With the above steps, you will be able to choose the focus mode desired by your camera to take the perfect **. Each focus mode has its pros and cons, and you'll need to choose the right one for your subject and environment.
Recommended purchase for ordinary households: The Canon Ixus 80 IS8 million pixel meets all your requirements for daily shooting. >>>More
1. Avoid water
The biggest enemy of DSLR cameras is the erosion of water vapor, which can cause varying degrees of corrosion or oxidation to the electronic components inside if accidentally ingested into water or exposed to humid air when not used for a long time. If you need to shoot in a scenic area with a waterfall, the air humidity is high, and you should avoid rain, splashing, and falling into the water. Secondly, to avoid exposure to humid air, it is recommended to put desiccant inside the box or sleeve where the DC is placed. >>>More
Canon's Ix 210 is selling very hot now, the price is slightly lower than the 2600, and the cost performance is also very high, and many places are out of stock!
I just bought it, the battery problem is not good to comment, the AA battery life is poor, but it is more convenient than lithium battery, especially when going out to play! Canon seems to have this kind of nickel-metal hydride battery (AA) that is specially used in camerasHowever, the imaging is a little slow when manual, maybe it's because I'm not familiar with it, but the 130's telephoto is very easy to use!
Use P gear, low ISO (high sensitivity will make your ** voice too many to see), on the tripod, the photographed object can't move, forced not to flash.