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I have also milled a blank of your size, but it is a copper plate, and the thickness margin at that time was 3mm on one side, and I used the side top method to mill it, and the effect was not bad.
Of course, the first side of your milling is directly pressed on the workbench, of course, the blank surface is uneven, you forcibly press down, and the milling is finished and the pressure plate is loosened and will definitely bounce back, there is only a margin of 1mm on one side, and the impact of thermal deformation will not be great, mainly due to the deformation caused by the pressure plate. You can press two plates under 18mm on the workbench, lean the blank against it, and then use two screws to push against the other side of the blank. Fixing method of the screw:
Find two plates (those that can be put into the T-slot of the workbench), drill a threaded hole in each of the two plates, and the screw is OK to pass through and resist the blank. And this also saves the trouble of pressing the plate, don't worry about the blank will run up when you top or process, I have tried, absolutely not, as long as you grind the top of the screw into an arc, you can't run.
After milling the first side, you can directly press it on the workbench and mill the second side, because the first side is already flat after milling, and there is no need to loosen the pressure plate and it will bounce back.
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Make your own knife and hold the boring cutter for the lathe with the edge facing down. The rotation diameter is more than 80, and if the profile can be longer, buy a longer one and cut it off at the end (used for compression), wasting some material. The spindle rotation drives the turning tool stroke to a large flying knife.
One-time light passes, and the feed is less. Finally, if you remove it and there is deformation, take it outside to correct it, and there is a special correction of the straightness of the plate axis.
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The first face is milled with two precision flat pliers, and the bed surface is pressed down after milling.
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Do you just need to make sure that each point is 18mm after processing?
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Your thickness is very easy, first mill a plane, and then reverse milling, the remaining knife forward and negative milling, clean the workbench, use hot melt glue to fix the aluminum parts around the processing, the way of walking is also very important, it is best to mill in circles, do not reciprocate milling.
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Tooling is key, if now parallelism.
If it is not up to standard, it is recommended to find a powerful manufacturer to make a good set of tooling.
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The vacuum suction cup is sucked and processed.
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Mill the plane first, and then set the tool, you can paste some paper on the surface of the workpiece when the tool is set, and the milling cutter can just touch the paper.
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Straighten with a dial gauge, and if you still think it's unreliable, square the blank and straighten it again.
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Remove the factor of the machine itself.
All that's left is the reason for clamping and cutting.
Be sure to clamp it correctly.
Compact and stable clamping force is appropriate.
The rule of thumb is that you don't think the workpiece will spring back when you release the platen.
Vise clamping is no longer a repetition.
The miller should do.
Cutting allowance speed and feed should be well matched.
Especially the final finish milling cutter.
If you use a face mill.
It is better to apply only one bit.
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Remove the factor of the machine itself.
All that's left is the reason for clamping and cutting.
Be sure to clamp it correctly.
Compact and stable clamping force is appropriate.
The rule of thumb is that you don't think the workpiece will spring back when you release the platen.
Vise clamping is no longer a repetition.
The miller should do.
Cutting allowance speed and feed should be well matched.
Especially the final finish milling cutter.
If you use a face mill.
It is better to apply only one bit.
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Is it to ensure the parallelism of the upper and lower sides, what material.
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There are many assembly methods, which need to be determined according to the actual situation, and it is not easy to find a random way that is not rigorous enough, nor is it easy to get (exposing the structure of other people's machines). In addition to institutional requirements, the selection of the right lead screw and guide rail specifications has a great impact on reliability and cost-effectiveness.
If the lead screw guide rail has been purchased, the accessories and assembly methods are designed in accordance with the principle of parallel positioning;
If you do not purchase the lead screw guide, we can provide you with the requirements to choose the appropriate specifications and accuracy, and design the assembly drawings for you if necessary.
1) Clean the parts related to the installation of the lead screw (bearings, bearing housings, couplings, bearing boxes), de-puncture, chamfer and tap.
2) Scrape and grind the motor seat and bearing seat.
3) Install the motor and coupling.
4) Align the mandrel into the motor seat, then load the bearing box into the bearing seat, and evenly preload the screws according to the principle of diagonal.
5) The magnetic gauge seat of the dial gauge is installed on the slider, the gauge is mounted on the gauge rod, and the gauge head is placed on the highest point of the two bearing bearings respectively, and the equal height of the bearing bearings is measured.
6) Place the dial gauge head at the convex end of the lead screw, and check the parallelism between the lead screw and the guide rail in three places: front, middle and back of the lead screw.
7) Tighten the screws in the assembly order.
8) Place the workbench on the slider to align the hole, and tighten it according to the principle of diagonal from the screw tightening of the nut pair (the nut shall not be exposed outside the hole).
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Adjust the feet, that is, support the bottom of the machine tool a few feet, simple points can be found under the workpiece, a feeler gauge, or a piece of paper.
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The processing of workpieces with low parallelism does not have a big impact.
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If the error of the milling machine is large, if the hole is drilled with the milling machine, the hole is not perpendicular to the bottom plane of the workpiece.
In the case of milling planes, the tool is trailing and the surface quality is very poor.
Milling the side of the workpiece, it will also not be vertical.
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Be sure to have a flatness first, and then use a good flatness to determine the parallelism. The faces are uneven, how can they be parallel.
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