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After the Xia Dynasty until the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, textile production had great development in both quantity and quality. The quality of raw material cultivation has been further improved; Textile combination tools have evolved into original manual textile machines such as reeling wheels, spinning wheels, and looms after long-term improvements. Labor productivity has increased substantially.
Some textile producers are gradually specialized, therefore, the craftsmanship is becoming more and more exquisite, and the reeling, spinning, weaving and dyeing processes are gradually matched. Textiles have become a large number of trading items, and sometimes even a medium of exchange, playing the role of currency. The product specifications have gradually changed from crude to meticulous standards.
In the Shang and Zhou dynasties, silk weaving technology developed prominently. By the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, silk fabrics were already very exquisite. The variety of textures and rich colors make silk fabrics a well-known and noble fabric.
This is the stage of handicraft machine weaving from germination to formation.
From the Qin and Han dynasties to the end of the Qing Dynasty, silk has always been famous as a specialty of China. Bulk textile raw materials have changed several times: from the Han to the Tang Dynasty, Ge was gradually replaced by hemp; From Song to Ming, hemp was replaced by cotton.
During this period, handmade textile machines gradually developed and improved, and a variety of forms appeared: for example, reeling and spinning wheels developed from hand-cranked single spindles to a variety of compound spindles (3 5 spindles each) pedal type; The loom has formed two categories: plain machine and flower machine. The flower machine has developed two types: multi-heald multi-foot (pedal) and bundle heald (individual warp thread).
After the Song Dynasty, the spinning wheel appeared to adapt to the multi-spindle type produced by the collectivization workshop. In some areas, there are also "water-to-large spinning wheels" that use natural power. The spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing processes are becoming more and more mature.
There are many kinds of fabrics, and the main fabric weaves (plain, twill, and satin) that are now known have all appeared by the Song Dynasty. Silk fabrics have not only maintained the status of high-end products, but also continue to appear for ornamental arts and crafts fabrics. In the Yuan and Ming dynasties, cotton textile technology developed rapidly, and the people's daily clothing gradually changed from linen cloth to cotton cloth.
This is the stage of development of manual machine weaving.
In the second half of the 18th century, Western Europe developed power machine weaving on the basis of manual weaving, and gradually formed a textile factory system of collectivized mass production, which was extended to other industries, so that social productivity was greatly improved. Western European countries dumped a large number of "foreign yarns" and "foreign cloths" produced by machines into China, which violently impacted China's handmade textile industry. After the defeat of the Opium War, China began to introduce European textile technology in 1870 and opened modern large-scale textile factories, which formed a situation of long-term coexistence of centralized textile production in a few large cities and decentralized hand-machine textile production in the vast rural areas.
However, the development of factory textile production was slow, and by 1949, the dominant cotton textile production scale was only about 5 million spindles. This is the formative stage of large-scale industrial textiles.
Excerpt from. Houshan blog.
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It's the transformation of the textile industry to capitalism.
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The development of handicrafts and the emergence of the germ of capitalism.
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1. Yuan Dynasty. The heavy agricultural policy of the rulers.
In order to maintain his rule, Kublai Khan, the ancestor of the Yuan dynasty.
At the very beginning of the founding of the country, the importance of agriculture was realized. He adopted a series of measures to restore and develop agricultural production, among which he established the principle of "rewarding agriculture and mulberry crops" and established agricultural institutions to persuade the agricultural department and the chief agricultural department, and took the five items of "increasing the number of households, opening up the fields, simplifying the lawsuits, relieving thieves, and assigning servants to equal" as the criteria for evaluating officials at all levels.
2. The progress of cotton technology.
Judging from the agricultural books of the Yuan Dynasty, great progress has been made in the cultivation of cotton, from land selection, land preparation to seed selection and fertilization, such as the "Agricultural Mulberry Compendium".
It is said that before planting, cotton seeds should be soaked with water, and soaking seeds has the effect of strengthening germination. This confirms the improvement of cotton cultivation technology in the Yuan Dynasty from one side.
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1. The heavy agricultural policy of the rulers of the Yuan Dynasty.
In order to maintain his rule, Kublai Khan, the ancestor of the Yuan dynasty, realized the importance of agriculture at the beginning of the founding of the country. He adopted a series of measures to restore and develop agricultural production, among which he established the principle of "rewarding agriculture and mulberry crops" and established agricultural institutions to persuade the agricultural department and the chief agricultural department, and took the five items of "increasing the number of households, opening up the fields, simplifying the lawsuits, relieving thieves, and assigning servants to equal" as the criteria for evaluating officials at all levels.
2. The progress of cotton technology.
Judging from the agricultural books of the Yuan Dynasty, in the cultivation of cotton, great progress has been made from land selection, land preparation to seed selection and fertilization, for example, it is said in the "Agricultural Mulberry Collection" that before planting, cotton seeds should be soaked with water, and soaking seeds has the effect of strengthening germination. This confirms the improvement of cotton cultivation technology in the Yuan Dynasty from one side.
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In the Yuan Dynasty, the cultivation of cotton as a cash crop was continuously promoted, and the planting and distribution of cotton and cotton textiles in the southern part of the Yangtze River increased on the basis of the Southern Song Dynasty. The development of the commercial production of cash crops made the rural economy, which was basically self-sufficient at that time, infiltrate into the commodity-money economic relations in some respects.
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1. At the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, Huang Daopo, a native of Wunijing, Songjiang Prefecture, lived in Yazhou on Hainan Island for more than 30 years in the Yuanzhen period.
Returned to his hometown and spread cotton planting and textile technology. In terms of weaving, she improved her skills such as defending, stretching, spinning, and weaving. She used wrong yarn, color matching, heald thread, and flower technology to weave the famous black mud quilt, which promoted the development of cotton textile technology and cotton textile industry in Songjiang.
A wide range of fine cotton textiles have been developed. Cotton and cotton spinning began to spread rapidly in Chinese mainland, and even kapok lifting divisions were set up in eastern Zhejiang, Jiangdong, Jiangxi, Huguang, Fujian and other places to manage cotton production. She also reformed textile technology to improve efficiency.
2. After the Southern Song Dynasty, the cotton textile industry developed rapidly due to the gradual widespread planting of cotton throughout the country.
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Raw materials: At the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, cotton began to be introduced to China from Central Asia, and a certain planting scale had been formed in the Yuan Dynasty.
Textile technology: Huang Daopo learned advanced cotton textile technology from the Li compatriots in Hainan, and carried out a comprehensive reform of cotton textile tools, manufacturing new rolling, elastic, spinning, weaving and other tools, refreshing the old appearance of the cotton textile industry.
These two points promoted the development of the cotton textile industry in the Yuan Dynasty.
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Features: The scope of cotton textile is expanding day by day; The cotton textile industry became the main textile sector.
Reasons: the needs of people's lives; ** Policy promotion; Expansion of cotton cultivation.
After cotton was introduced into China in the Song Dynasty, it was supervised and promoted by the rulers of successive dynasties because of its important role in meeting people's clothing needs, and cotton production has spread to all provinces and regions in the country in the Ming Dynasty; By the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the tremendous pressure of rapid population growth on the one hand pushed cotton cultivation to continue to disperse to a wider area, and on the other hand, it further promoted the concentration of various crops, first of all, grain and cotton, in their respective suitable areas.
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Features: The private handicraft industry in the textile, porcelain and other industries surpasses the government-run handicraft industry and occupies a dominant position in the handicraft production of the whole society. The regional division of labor became more pronounced, and specialized handicraft towns appeared.
In some areas, the separation of farming and weaving and the separation of spinning and weaving within the handicraft industry gradually appeared. Handicraft production technology is constantly innovating and reaching new levels. Capitalism sprouted and developed slowly.
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1. Business mode: The handicraft industry mainly includes government handicraft industry and private handicraft industry. Cottage industry; During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the private handicraft industry developed rapidly, replacing the government-run workshops and workshops, and occupying a dominant position.
2, a, the smelting technology of the Ming and Qing dynasties was greatly improved, and the use of coke and iron smelting began to be popular from the Ming Dynasty at the end of the Southern Song Dynasty; b, Songjiang in the Ming Dynasty became the center of the national cotton textile industry, and cotton cloth became the main clothing material for people; c, during the Ming and Qing dynasties, the development of the silk weaving industry entered its heyday, and Suzhou and Hangzhou were the famous silk weaving industry centers; d, in the ceramic industry, the Ming Dynasty created doucai and colorful porcelain, and the Qing Dynasty created pastel and enamel color.
3. Generally speaking, the Ming and Qing dynasties saw the germination of capitalism, but the small peasant economy still occupied a dominant position, which was the main reason for the development of capitalism and the inability of the handicraft industry to be large-scale factory.
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During the Northern Song Dynasty, cotton was widely cultivated in Liangguang and Fujian, and in the Southern Song Dynasty, it was popularized to the Yangtze River basin. At that time, the cotton grown in the south was a kapok that was introduced from Southeast Asia for a generation, and it produced many peaches and high yields. The Fujian generation has a saying that "thousands of kapok plants are harvested, and eight people are not worried about poverty".
Cotton gradually became an important cash crop in the Song and Song dynasties, which created conditions for the rise of the cotton textile industry. At that time, there was already a set of cotton textile tools for rolling, stretching, spinning and weaving.
After the Yuan Dynasty, especially in the Ming Dynasty, with the large-scale cultivation of cotton and the development of cotton textile technology, cotton textile also flourished. Cotton cloth has gradually become the main clothing material for the people of the country.
There has been a noticeable improvement in the processing tools used in the cotton spinning industry. The agitator of the cotton seeding tool originally required two people to operate, but only one person was used in the late Ming Dynasty.
By the time of Wanli, cotton was planted in a large area in Henan Province, Shandong Province, and the northern flower had been dumped in the south. The surge in cotton production in the north and south has directly promoted the development of the cotton spinning industry.
During the Northern Song Dynasty, the silk weaving industry in the south developed greatly.
1.Shudi silk fabrics "number for the crown of the world".
2.The silk output of Jiangsu and Zhejiang is high, and most of the silk used by the imperial court comes from Jiangsu and Zhejiang.
Cotton gradually became an important cash crop in the Song and Song dynasties, which created conditions for the rise of the cotton textile industry. At that time, there was already a set of cotton textile tools for rolling, stretching, spinning and weaving. For example, "Song People's "Spinning Wheel Map" and "Unearthed Southern Song Dynasty Cotton Blanket", reflecting the superb cotton textile technology of the Song Dynasty) Due to the rise of the cotton textile industry was not long, cotton textiles did not occupy a major position in the clothing of residents at that time.
After the Yuan Dynasty, especially in the Ming Dynasty, with the large-scale cultivation of cotton and the development of cotton textile technology, cotton textile also flourished. Cotton cloth has gradually become the main clothing material for the people of the country. Cotton production has developed further, showing a tendency to replace expensive silk fabrics and linen products with low production.
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