SLR masters, please enter OO

The fuselage motor is not in Canon, because all Canon lenses have motors, Nikon D90 is in the early 5000s, 18-105 sleeve head with fuselage motor, anti-shake except Sony is all lens anti-shake, the lens you buy with anti-shake has anti-shake lens without 18-55 head with anti-shake, don't think about whether the body is anti-shake or not.

The number of Pentax lenses is slightly smaller than that of the Canon and Nikon, but the legendary 18-55 has the best binder imaging quality! I haven't used Pentax and I won't rate it.

Remote control, I don't know if you're talking about a wireless shutter, if it's a wireless shutter, basically all the SLRs are there, if you say it's wifi, 650D is not with wifi in Canon** full-width bodywifi

Based on your budget and requirements, Nikon D90 is the best choice, with 18-105+ shoulder screen + 150,000 shutter life, absolutely the best choice.

Have you ever figured out what the fuselage motor is for? Canon doesn't have a motor on all of its bodies, and all of its bodies don't have anti-shake, so you won't buy it?

To buy a DSLR, you can't take appearance as the main requirement. Black is a classic.

Looks like you're from the Appearance Association, hehe.

If you don't get a lot of shots, I recommend you to buy a Pentax K30+18-55 set, less than 4000.

You can also buy a double head cover, k30+18-55+50-200, about 5000. 55-200 can chase stars or something.

Heavy appearance, don't SLR, buy micro orders.

Pentax is okay, although there are different colors, but the SLR looks like that.

Pentax K-R, Olympus E-M5, Canon 100D, Pentax Q7. Small and nice.

What's the use of buying two levels of the same This is obviously what Bai Fumei did, haha. Buy a 650D, the machine is very good, but the body does not have image stabilization, but you can buy a lens of image stabilization.

Here's a suggestion for you! Look at what kind of machine my friend is using, and when I decide to buy it, at least the lens is shared, and playing a white Pentax is really eye-catching

Multi-zone metering:

Also known as average metering or evaluative metering on some cameras. When shooting, there may be some areas that are brighter and some areas that are darker. For us, the highlights and shadows are equally important in the whole **, that is, we don't want the highlights to be overexposed, and we don't want the shadows to lose details.

So I'm going to use the average metering mode. Average the light and the light to an average. Generally, it is more commonly used to shoot landscapes.

Spot metering: The overall ambient light is very dark, but the target you want to shoot is very bright (for example, if you take a picture of a lamp at night, you want to shoot the pattern on the lampshade clearly), if you use average metering (that is, the overall ambient metering), then the overall ** is accurate, but your target will be overexposed because it is too bright. At this time, it is necessary to metering the subject point to ensure the accuracy of the subject. However, in this case, the object being photographed is **accurate, and **other parts of the image may be insufficient.

In the same way, if the ambient light is bright and the target to be shot is dark, spot metering should also be used.

**Focused metering:

Also known as ** key evaluation metering. When we shoot portraits, we generally want to be accurate in both the portrait and the background. However, when the contrast between portrait and background lighting is too large for the camera to take into account, we will also make trade-offs, and of course portrait is more important than background.

In this case, the key metering data is used, and the 20%-30% area metering data of the camera viewfinder** part accounts for 70% of the weighted weight, and the metering value of other areas only accounts for about 30% of the weighted weight of the whole image.

That is to say, if you want to show something that has a wide range in the picture, such as a landscape, use multi-area metering, and if it is in the center, then use ** focus.

If it is a very small thing, then use spot metering, for example, shooting a white flower in the grass, or shooting a portrait when backlighting, what you want to show (flowers or faces) is more important than the background, then it is necessary to meet the needs of the point, and the point measurement and the focus are to deal with scenes with large contrasts.

Of course, the actual use often needs to be used in combination with the first compensation.

Spot metering: Take this point as the benchmark to make sure that this point can be correct**, and finally**this point can be displayed normally. It is usually used in more complex light and shadow conditions, so as to ensure that the object you want to shoot is correct to the greatest extent, such as shooting large backlit**, and it is also recommended to use this kind of portrait or still life.

**Accent metering: Similar to spot metering, except that the metering area is slightly larger.

Multi-zone metering: Use the whole frame as a benchmark to ensure the level of the whole frame, but it may cause the object you want to shoot ** is incorrect, because the camera cannot determine which areas of the whole frame you want to focus on, this mode is more suitable for novices or environments with simple lighting conditions, such as taking landscape photos.

Multi-zone metering, also known as weighted average metering: the image is divided into several areas, each area is metered separately, and the camera processor summarizes the values measured in each area and calculates a final value through weights.

**Key metering: It is the main metering area with a circle of about 10mm in diameter of the picture, with 70-80% of the metering value in the circle and 30-20% of the metering value outside the circle.

Spot metering: It is a circle with a diameter of about 2mm in the picture** (or focus point) as the metering area, and the metering value in the circle accounts for 100%, and the metering outside the circle cannot be metered.

When shooting, choose the right way according to the scene environment and the purpose of shooting:

Landscape photography mostly uses multi-zone metering light, and portraits can also be taken when the contrast between light and dark is not too large and the light is relatively uniform. The technical level is not very demanding.

Portraits mostly use ** key metering or spot metering, which is suitable for environments with large contrast between light and dark.

Spot metering is mostly used for flower sketches or close-ups of characters, and the metering accuracy is very high.

Panasonic LX5

Pros: sensor size 1 inch (large CCD), good image quality, Leica certified wide-angle lens, good lens resolution, good macro shooting ability, face tracking, **excellent bokeh effect, excellent backlight resistance, fully automatic**, but also supports manual**, can be used for a long time ** (up to 60 seconds, minimum 1 4000 seconds), high ISO: 80, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1000, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800, Excellent noise cancellation control, battery life:

About 280-320 shots, super large aperture, excellent performance in low light. It also feels good, and the appearance is passable.

Disadvantages: No touch screen, the edge distortion control of the wide-angle image is not good enough, the telephoto end is not long enough, the double optical zoom feels a little less, the 4x digital zoom, the zoom speed is relatively slow.

The price is around 3500, if you think it's expensive, you can choose Panasonic LX3, the performance difference between the two is not very large. LX3**2500 or so.

My own is Canon, but it's not bad to use a friend's Nikon, so I don't recommend buying a Samsung.

Hey, I also spent all my savings this month, and finally lost a DSLR camera ......Defeated to become a poor bastard, hehe......

I also struggled for a long time, and finally bought the Sony A550, with an 18-70 and a 75-300 lens! Didn't buy Nikon and Canon. Because my budget is within 6000 like you, only Sony A550, Canon 500D, and Nikon D5000 can be selected.

First of all, the Nikon D5000 does not come with a fuselage motor! This means that a large pass of the lens can be used, but it can only be focused manually! Khan, or I'll burn red, and the aunt will buy a lens with autofocus!

I really don't know if the designers who designed this machine were kicked in the head by a donkey! And it's a group kick! Or a sauna to wash the inside of the brain!

As an entry-level SLR, isn't this design a smash on your own feet? Although **quite, Nikon has the lowest number of phases!! Khan ......

Let's talk about Canon, I went to the store to see and try these machines, and the low-end of Canon is really not good! It's really not good! Others say it's like a plastic toy, but it's really true!

Although it is said that it is an old brand, but as far as the fuselage is concerned, the entry-level SLR is still a little sloppy, except for the lens mount, the others are all plastic, and there is no modification, unlike Nikon Sony, which is modified with soft leather, it really feels like a plastic toy, although it is said that there are more short film shoots than Sony, we buy a camera, not a video camera! And the camera can only be taken for five minutes!! Khan, Canon's low-end entry-level machine is really a bit ...... fools

Finally, Sony, although everyone unanimously said that there are not many lens groups, but they are enough, from the low-end to the head of Zeiss, and there are many matching lenses for Sigma, like those of us who are only hobbyists, generally Tao a fixed-focus portrait lens and an 18-70 and a 75-300 lens is enough to play! The fixed focus is more expensive, more than 2,000, 18-70 and 75-300 can be obtained for more than 1,000 points, ** not more expensive than Nikon and Canon, enough to play!

Another point is that it depends on whether you want to develop in this direction in the future, and if so, then you should choose Canon or Nikon. Because the lens you buy now only needs to upgrade to a stand-alone camera in the future, and the lens can continue to be used!

Sony A550 is a model with good performance and cost performance in the primary SLR. And there is a set, and the body +18-55mm standard zoom lens is also within 5500.

Sony SLR lenses are mainly Sony series and Carl Chases series. Chase lenses are more professional and expensive. In addition to the standard change lens, the other lenses of the Sony series are more than 1,000 yuan.

Canon 500D, 550D I didn't think much about it at the beginning. The Nikon D90, like the Canon 50D, is a mid-range SLR. It is more than 6500 to add a prime lens, and more than 7000 to add a zoom lens.

At the beginning, it was Nikon D90 plus one zoom, and the store just refused to give less than 7000, so I chose the Sony A550+ standard variant set machine, and added a 75-300mm zoom lens.

6000 is not too suitable to buy Sony.

There are two types of Sony lenses, one Zeiss and one Sony's own.

Sony's shots are relatively bad, **medium; Zeiss lenses are excellent, but they are extremely expensive. If you use Sony, you need to use Zeiss.

As for the model, the A550 is okay, and Sony is still doing well in electronics. But SLRs often think about lens groups.

It is recommended that you go to the Sony store to try whether you are satisfied with the feel, and then ask the ** of the Zeiss lens, if you can accept that**, OK.

In addition, there are two potential problems with buying Sony:

1. There are few people who use Sony, and it will be very troublesome to buy and sell second-hand lenses in the future. Buying and selling second-hand lenses is very common, and I believe that most people who play SLR have done so, which is a good way to save money and enjoy more lenses.

2. Sony did hear that it was going to withdraw from the SLR market, focusing on small digital cameras and new single-electric system cameras. Then it will be troublesome to update the SLR after that, don't hold a bunch of Sony lenses and can't upgrade the SLR, it's a tragedy.

If I choose, the Canon 550 is the number one choice at the moment, and of course I'm not Sony, so you'll have to think it out for yourself.

Hope my words are helpful to you.

In the field of civilian cameras, Canon is the absolute leader in sales. The same ** low-end set of cameras in terms of imaging and lens quality is ahead of Sony (only Nikon has a fight with him).

Recommended: Canon 500D, this one is more cost-effective (18-55 sets are only more than 4,000). If you want to play for a few more years, it's still Nikon D90 (Jingdong is less than 6,000), that is the texture of a professional metal body (SLR must have a shoulder screen to be professional enough).

To give you the top 10 of recent DSLR sales as a reference:

1. Canon 500D; 2. Nikon D90; 3. Canon 550D; 4. Canon 50d; 5. Nikon D3000; 6. Canon 5DMark2; 7. Canon 7D; 8. Nikon D5000; 9. Pentax KX; 10. Canon 450D.

How to say it,Sony's focus in the future is single power,SLR must be gradually fading, except for the more high-end,Many models will be discontinued recently。 The last time I watched the Sony footage, many of my friends shook their heads.

I don't think you have a good impression of the C N family, so let's join Pentax KX. 6000 words, in addition to the machine, even the lens can be bought a good one. And the performance is not bad, even the D90 can't be said to completely suppress the KX, let alone the 550D.

If it's Sony, just buy Sony A550.

It is foreseeable that there are many people below who disapprove of Sony and only recommend Canon, Nikon. But what I want to say is that Sony can now be regarded as a sudden emergence in the field of SLR, especially after the acquisition of Minolta, it can be said that the combination of Japanese style and German style is very distinctive.

Don't keep staring at those two