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Of course you can, it's convenient, and it works great.
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Of course! And it's very well raised.
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Breeding bread worms is very good.
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Is there a bigger **? It looks like sawdust excreted by insects.
The landlord can see if it is a small bug with six legs, if it is not a bug with six legs.
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See if there are any on the chicken, it is very likely that it is chicken lice. You can buy some medicine to get rid of chicken lice and give it a shot.
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Adults begin to lay eggs 3 6 days after emergence, put a piece of white paper under the mesh sieve before spawning, let the eggs fall from the hole to the paper, change the paper once every two or three days, change the oviposition period once a day, write the date of oviposition on the white paper, and put the eggs in an empty box separately to facilitate hatching at the same time, so as to facilitate management. After a week, the larvae hatch and the mealworms are poured into a feeding container containing wheat bran. You can also put the adult on a piece of white paper, sprinkle some bran on the paper, let the adult lay eggs, change the paper once every two or three days, and the survival rate is more than 90.
Mealworms, also known as breadworms, belong to the order Coleoptera, the family Paratoceae, and the genus Mealworm in insect taxonomy.
Native to North America, introduced from the Soviet Union in the 50s, dried mealworms contain 30% fat, more than 50% protein, in addition to phosphorus, potassium, iron, sodium, aluminum and other macroelements and a variety of trace elements.
Because dried mealworm larvae contain about 40% protein, pupae contain 57%, and adults contain 60% (according to the "Chinese Medicine Science and Technology News"). It is known as the "treasure trove of protein feed".
Bread worms have strong disease resistance, but if they are not properly managed or the environment is mutated, diseases will also occur, and dry blight and soft rot are more common: 1. Blight: This disease mostly occurs in high temperature and dry summer, and the pests dry up from beginning to end, and the body color turns black.
Prevention and control methods: feed more green vegetables; 2. Soft rot: This disease mostly occurs in the rainy season, the air humidity is high, the feed is moldy and deteriorated, and the insect body is injured and caused by bacterial infection. Diseases and insects move slowly, the body becomes black and soft, rots and dies.
Prevention and control methods: keep the box (box) ventilated and dry, reduce or stop feeding green feed, do not feed moldy and deteriorated feed, clean up the bait and feces, isolate pests and diseases in time, and maintain a reasonable density.
The adult of the bread worm does not become a flying worm, and the white one is a freshly molted worm, which is the process of growing up.
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Bread worm, also known as flour worm, has the characteristics of fast growth, strong fecundity, simple feeding method, and can reproduce in all seasons, and is the most commonly used animal feed containing high protein for ornamental birds.
The whole life history of bread worms is about 4 months, and the feeding method is relatively simple: brush the enamel basin or ceramic basin with smooth walls, add bran with a thickness of about 10 cm, and then put the bread worms in, sprinkle some flour or corn flour on top, cover with a few vegetable leaves or vegetable chips, pumpkin, zucchini, cucumber, Chinese cabbage, cabbage, cabbage, cabbage, etc. These leaves are edible for breadworms and can increase humidity.
Then place the pot in a place with a higher indoor temperature, generally 22 25 and a humidity of 50 60. It takes 6 to 7 molts from egg to adult, and it takes about 3 months to become an adult (black shellworm). The average body length is 32 mm, the body width is mm, the average weight is 0 2 grams, and individual weights can reach 0 25 grams.
After pupation, the pupae are 17 mm long, 4 mm wide, and weigh an average gram. The pupation process of bread worms is to first crack a small hole from the head, the tail begins to wriggle, and the skin slowly sheds from the top of the head to the back, and it can be completely molted after 5 to 10 minutes. The whole body of the pupal is milky white, and after 5 to 6 hours, it turns dark yellow, and after 3 to 5 days, the pupa begins to become an adult (black shellworm).
After mating, the adults begin to lay eggs after 2 to 3 days, during which some leafy vegetables can be put in the pot, on the one hand, for the bread worms to feed, and on the other hand, the adults can lay eggs on the leafy vegetables. The eggs are milky white and the size of millet grains. Be careful not to throw away the remaining leafy vegetables, so as not to throw away the eggs at the same time.
The eggs hatch after 9 to 10 days of larvae, and on closer inspection the larvae can be seen wriggling in the wheat bran. At this time, you can take out the dried vegetable leaves, cover the wheat bran with a layer of fresh vegetable leaves, flour or corn flour, etc., for the larvae to eat, and the larvae will grow quickly. In the breeding of bread worms, large pupae should be selected and placed in a single pot for oviposition.
The larvae are almost the same size, and the eggs are not sifted out when the feces are replaced. When feeding birds, you can pick out the large ones and feed them first. For those that have become pupa, they can be picked out and put into another pot and continue to reproduce.
Bread worms of different sizes should be kept separately. After feeding a pot of breadworms, when it is necessary to reproduce again, the old pot should be cleaned and reused. In the breeding process of bread worms, the wheat bran should be checked frequently to see if it is finished, and if it has been eaten, the worms can be sieved out with a sieve and replaced with new bran.
After the bran turns black, you can sprinkle a little fresh drum skin and flour, corn flour, etc. Replace the new leaves frequently, and don't put too many at a time. The humidity of new vegetable leaves for insects should be increased, but not too much, so as not to spoil the feed and become moldy.
In the process of breeding bread worms, some new and larger individual provenances should be introduced every two or three generations, so as not to make the body shape and physique of the insects worse and worse due to inbreeding.
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When the temperature and humidity are suitable, the fledgling adults are ready to mate and lay eggs after 5 to 6 days.
Thereafter, spawn again every 6 to 10 days. When the adult worm lays eggs, most of them burrow to the bottom between the paper and the net, extend the ovipositor, pass through the wire mesh hole, and lay the eggs on the paper or in the feed between the paper and the net, which can prevent the adult from eating the eggs. Every 3 to 5 days, sweep away some of the feed with chicken feathers, remove the feed from the adults, transfer the eggs to the larval breeding tank, and let them hatch naturally.
Then, the original adult incubation tank is re-lined with white paper, and the original feed and adult worms are put back to allow them to lay eggs naturally.
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1. Once the furniture has insects, the items in the furniture should be cleaned up first, and those that cannot be cleaned should be put in the sun to dry; The furniture should be wiped several times with disinfectant, and thoroughly ventilated and dried after wiping. Put some desiccant in the cabinet to ensure a dry environment.
2. For wooden furniture that has been eroded by insects, a small amount of insecticide solution can be dropped into the insect-eaten holes (insecticides are not recommended for pregnant women), or they can be pounded with sharp peppers or peppercorns, stuffed into the insect-eaten holes, and then applied paraffin oil to the insect-eaten places for 10 days. However, it is important to remember that tableware such as cabinets cannot use pesticides and paraffin oil.
3. If possible, after buying new furniture, it is best to paint the surface of the wooden board without paint in the furniture, which can not only enhance the aesthetics, but also prevent insects. (Beware of the toxicity of the paint).
4. Apply paraffin oil to the insect-eaten area for 10 days. However, it is important to remember that tableware such as cabinets cannot use pesticides and paraffin oil.
5. Paint all the diesel fuel in the wooden cabinet that has been eaten by insects. Dry for two or three hours and then apply it once, and then dry it again, until you see the moth dead at the mouth of the hole. Then wash with laundry detergent and dry.
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1 Paint treatment.
For some corners that have not yet been damaged, paint such as tung oil, shellac paint or varnish is used to brush the surface of the wooden cabinet, which can isolate the sawdust insects from the air and achieve the purpose of mothproofing. It should be noted that when painting, the front and back sides and the inner wall of the wooden cabinet should be evenly painted.
2 Pharmacy treatment.
When the wooden cabinet is eaten by sawdust insects, dichlorvos and water can be used to prepare the liquid medicine in the ratio of 1 5, spray it comprehensively with a sprayer, let the liquid infiltrate into the wooden cabinet, and spray 3 times 5 times in a row, after 8 hours, it can kill all the sawdust insects. After that, wash the wooden cabinet with clean water and dry it.
3 Rub with diesel.
On a sunny day, place the wooden cabinet that has been eaten by sawdust and insects in the sunny place, and paint all the wooden cabinets with a brush or cotton yarn dipped in diesel fuel once. Dry for two or three hours and then apply it once, and then dry, until you see the sawdust insects die at the mouth of the hole. Then wash with laundry detergent and dry.
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That's the tide bugs, there will be traces of them in the damp corners of the house, you can buy some dichlorvos mixed with water, spray, close the window and close the door, stuffy for a while, try it.
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There may be wood worms growing in it, or the wood is cheap, and it will fall off wood chips after a long time.
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There may be worms, it may be that the wood is rotten. It is recommended to replace it with new wood.
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Hello, there must be bugs inside, there are bug droppings and broken wood chips that fall, you can put medicine in the gaps, otherwise it will be serious.
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No, this thing is easy to bite, and let's not talk about the problem of not being able to observe the growth of the bird, and the feces of the bird will increase in the later stage, how do you clean it? Even if you open a skylight, the paper one can easily absorb the water in the feces and retain it along with the bacteria, which is very easy to smell and insects, which is not conducive to the growth of birds.
It is best to use the pine nest box on the **, vertical and horizontal can be, you will know after using it, it is really convenient.
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It's better to get some hay so that the fertility is a little healthier.
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Yes, try not to disturb them during breeding.
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You also need to have hay.
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