Why is the zero line of the live wire lit, a live wire, no zero line, the light is on?

Measure with an electric pen the reason why both the live and neutral wires are bright:

1. Neutral line breaking: At this time, the electric pen will measure the voltage of the live wire through the load, and it will inevitably light up.

Solution: Find the neutral line break point and wire it.

2. The zero line is wrongly connected: the zero line end of the circuit breaker is marked with "n", which is generally a blue line, if the electric pen is bright, you need to check whether the measurement wiring is correct.

Solution: Use a multimeter to measure whether the voltage of the neutral line and the ground wire is 220V, if it is normal, if it is 380V, it means that the neutral line is connected to the live wire end, and it needs to be reconnected.

This is caused by the zero line is not through, if all the sockets in the home are like this, it is necessary to consider the zero line disconnection or poor contact of the main switch, and it can be turned on, if it is like this somewhere, it is necessary to consider the local zero line disconnection or poor contact, and the zero line can be connected.

Don't listen to their nonsense.

In fact, it is very simple, people with a little electrician knowledge will know that your zero line is in poor contact or the zero line is broken, see if the gate under the zero line is broken, you have to pull the gate first, the electric pen measures that there is electricity, it is the live wire string, you can try to pull the gate first, and then break the zero line from the lamp port from the new root temporary zero line will definitely not be both light up Your zero line is broken The line is broken in the poor contact.

It's very simple: at first, the light is not on, and both wires are lit because the zero line is not in good contact, and the light is not lit, and the pen is on because one is the live wire, the light is on, and the other is induction, and the lamp will also be on.

Later, the lamp port was changed, and the electric pen measured that both wires were on, and one of them was also inducted, and if you use an electric pen that can display the voltage, you can see that one is 220v, and the other is definitely not 220v, don't believe it, you try.

Don't know if you use a fuse or an air switch in your home? If it's a fuse, it's the fuse that has broken the neutral wire at the main switch. If the air switch is broken, the entrance switch in the distribution box is broken, just replace it.

If the meter is a double inlet switch, it may also be broken, as long as the upper and lower ends of the zero line of the switch can be judged by using a pen. Normally, the top and bottom are not lit, if the lower end will be on, the switch is broken, just change it.

The main thing is the poor contact of the zero line.

I guess there's a local UMC.

The zero line line line is back to its original path through the light bulb.

A live wire, if there is no neutral wire, the light will be on, that is caused by the induced voltage.

The line of the electric lamp at home is a zero wire and a live wire, which constitutes a loop to make the bulb shine, but now the LED energy-saving lamp only needs to be connected with a live wire, then there is no zero line, and the bulb will also appear to be faint, which is caused by the induced voltage after the live wire passes through the bulb. In fact, it is not that the real bulb is very bright, but emits a faint flickering light, because of his induced voltage, although there is, but its resistance is too large, that is, the power of this bulb will be affected, just a little induced current. The current is very small.

The solution to this problem is to connect the live wire to the switch.

There is only one live wire, no neutral wire, and the bulb cannot be lit.

The reason is that it is not possible to form a closed loop, and the current cannot flow through the bulb and let the bulb shine. There must be a current on the bulb that meets the current flow of the bulb, and there is only one live wire, there is no current on the bulb, the bulb is not lit, and there must be a current that meets the required size for the bulb to be lit.

Just one line of fire? Don't connect to the zero line? In other words, the other end is suspended in the air, right?

Can it also be brightened like this? No wonder the water in the Three Gorges is dry, it turns out that the water is flowing backwards I guess you made a mistake, you didn't connect the zero line, but if it is connected to the ground line, or directly connected to the earth, it will also be bright.

This kind of induction electricity normally occurs in lighting fixtures with less power, such as LED lamps and incandescent lamps below 15 watts, etc., which can be avoided only by switching and controlling the fire. Of course, sometimes there is a slight brightness phenomenon when the fire line is turned off, which is also a manifestation of induction electricity, and the solution is usually to use a micro contactor in the lamp to deal with special places.

It's an LED light, the brightness is very weak, and it is caused by induced electrical phenomena. It's normal.

If there is no leakage circuit breaker, the other end of the lamp connected to the ground can also be lit.

Summary. Hello, glad to be able to help you. Both the neutral wire and the live wire should enter the lamp head, but the neutral wire does not pass through the switch, and the live wire passes through the switch. That is to say, the neutral wire is directly connected to the lamp head, and the live wire must be controlled by the switch before connecting to the lamp head.

Is the zero line into the lamp head or the live line in.

Hello, glad to be able to help you. Both the neutral wire and the live wire should enter the lamp head, but the neutral wire does not pass through the switch, and the live wire passes through the switch. That is to say, the neutral wire is directly connected to the lamp head, and the live wire must be controlled by the switch before connecting to the lamp head.

The live wire enters the switch, and the zero wire goes directly into the lamphead.

Right. The live wire inlet switch is powered off, right?

The live wire enters the lamp head through the switch, and the neutral wire directly approaches the lamp head.

Got it. Okay, if you have any questions, you can continue to ask me, I am always available, I wish you a happy life!

How do I identify a live and neutral line?

The color of the line of fire (L) shall be red, yellow, and green; The color of the zero line (n) shall be black and blue; The color of the ground wire (PE) shall be yellow and green. Face 3-pin socket, left zero, right fire, middle ground.

Install a leakage circuit breaker on the bus, and connect a bulb to the live wire and the neutral wire or the live wire and the ground wire, if the leakage circuit breaker action indicates that it is the ground wire, otherwise it is the neutral wire.

If you are at home: when you turn on the electricity and use an electric pen, it will be all the live wire. Disconnect the zero line at the main switch, only turn on the live wire, turn on the lights at home in the open position, measure with an electric pen, it was not lit just now, and now it is all the zero line. All that is left unlit is ground.

The simplest, take a 220V bulb, use an electric pen to determine the live wire, respectively with two wires and live wire connected to the lamp head, from the brightness can distinguish the zero line and the ground wire, the bright one is the zero line, the slightly darker is the ground wire.

with a multimeter. Put the multimeter in the AC file 500V, pinch a meter pen, and the other meter pen is connected to the power cord respectively, the high voltage is the live wire, the low is the neutral line, and the voltage is 0 is the ground wire. The resistance of the neutral line to ground is less than 4 ohms for reliable grounding.

Use a multimeter to place the pressure difference between the 250V fire line and the neutral line, the live wire and the ground wire in the AC file, and the difference between the two values is less than 5V for reliable grounding.

Regarding the difference between the live wire and the neutral line, in the ordinary household lighting circuit, there is a voltage of 220V between the live wire and the ground, and there is no voltage between the neutral line and the ground (or the voltage is 0), so there is a voltage of 220V between the live wire and the neutral line.

Electric shock accidents will occur when the human body is directly or indirectly connected with the live wire: (1) If you stand directly on the ground and contact the live wire (or the conductor connected to the live wire), an electric shock accident will occur; (2) Standing on an insulated stool with one hand against the wall and touching the fire wire with the other hand, an electric shock accident will occur; (3) Standing on the insulated stool, one hand is connected to the live wire, and the other hand touches the neutral line, an electric shock accident will occur.

In short, as long as one part of the human body directly or indirectly touches the line of fire, and the other part touches the ground or the neutral line, an electric shock accident will occur.

Electric shock accidents will not occur under the following conditions, but it is best not to try to avoid misjudging the live wire and neutral line and causing an accident.

1) Stand directly on the ground and touch the zero line;

2) Stand on an insulated stool and only touch the live wire.

The bulb is not lit, and the live wire neutral interface of the lampholder has electricity, what is going on?

Check the neutral line, it has been disconnected, so there is fire in both the fire line and the neutral line. Either there is a problem with the wiring or the joint is not in good contact.

The power provided by the socket in the home is single-phase alternating current, while the grid is three-phase alternating current, and the three-phase alternating current is equal to zero when the three-phase load is symmetrical.

Although household power lines are usually installed, it is common to balance the single-phase load connected to the three-phase power supply as much as possible.

In fact, the electricity consumption of each household is not necessarily at the same time, and the electricity consumption also changes from time to moment.

Therefore, it is actually difficult to achieve complete zero of the potential of the neutral line, and when measured with a voltage tester, both the neutral line and the live wire emit light. It's just that one glows brighter and the other glows darker. The one that glows darker is the zero line.

In addition, because the three-phase balance is usually achieved as much as possible when wiring, therefore, the zero line often adopts the wire of a finer section, and in order to ensure the strong rise and collapse of the zero line, the steel core wire with a higher resistance value may usually be used, so the resistance value of the neutral line is generally larger, and when the three-phase load is large and asymmetrical, the voltage drop on the zero line is larger, the potential to the ground is higher, and the brightness of the electric pen will also appear when testing the zero line.

In the event of a power system failure, or an extreme imbalance of the three-phase load, the potential of the neutral line is sometimes high, and it is relatively difficult to distinguish between the two lines.

Second, the electric pen fire line and zero line will be bright.

Turn off the air switch first, connect a live wire from the air switch (connect red), I use a double-strand wire, and then turn on the air switch, and use an electric pen to test the fire wire will be bright, which is normal, but how can the other line (blue) also be bright, and the live wire is almost bright, whether it is normal. Finally, if the live wire and the neutral wire are connected, the test will be normal (the live wire is bright, the zero wire is not bright), and the use of electrical appliances is also normal.

The line is newly bought, and there is no break or break.

There is a light switch or an electrical switch that controls the zero line, and the live wire does not control the direct flow through the electrical appliances or the lamp to form a loop, which is very unsafe, and it is recommended to quickly find an electrician Hongxiao Kai to check and correct.

The neutral wire and the wire are reversed: If the neutral wire is reversed, the neutral wire will be connected with one of the wires of the normal light, causing the normal light to be slightly bright. At this point, you need to reconnect the neutral wire and the wire.

2.Poor ground wire or other wiring: If the ground wire or other wiring is not well connected or contacted, it may also cause the normal light to be slightly bright.

It is advisable to check whether the wiring is standardized and deal with bad contacts. 3.Luminaire circuit board failure:

If the circuit board of the knowledge bureau does not have a lamp, it may also cause the normal lamp to be slightly bright, and the faulty circuit board needs to be replaced or repaired. Dear, the problem of the normal light of the zero live wire may be caused by the failure of the wiring or equipment, and the problem needs to be carefully checked and troubleshooting to solve the problem. It is recommended to have a professional electrician for inspection and repair.

Dear, the above is mine, I hope these contents can help you, thank you for your understanding and support, I will continue to work hard. Thank you, dear.

Summary. Kiss hello <>

The reasons why the normal light of the zero live line is slightly bright are as follows; 1.Leakage: There is a faint leakage phenomenon.

This is due to the loss of current through ground or other paths due to the failure of some equipment or appliances, which causes the normal light of the neutral fire to light up slightly. In this case, it is recommended that you check the circuit and equipment to ensure that there is no leakage problem and repair it in time. 2.

Voltage fluctuation: The supply voltage is unstable or there is voltage fluctuation, and the normal lamp of the neutral wire may emit light weakly. You can solve the voltage problem by using a voltage regulator device or by contacting a power provider.

3.Bulb issues: Sometimes the bulb itself may have quality issues or aging, resulting in a faint glow.

You can try replacing the bulb and check if the problem is resolved.

The zero fire line is normal and the light is slightly bright.

Kiss hello <>

The reasons why the normal light of the zero live line is slightly bright are as follows; 1.Leakage: There is a faint leakage phenomenon.

This is due to the loss of current through ground or other paths due to the failure of some equipment or appliances, which causes the normal light of the neutral fire to light up slightly. In this case, it is recommended that you check the circuit and equipment to ensure that there is no leakage problem and repair it in time. 2.

Voltage fluctuation: The power supply leakage balance voltage is unstable or there is voltage fluctuation, and the normal lamp of the zero live wire may glow weakly. You can solve the voltage problem by using a quiet voltage stabilizing device or contacting a power supplier.

3.Bulb issues: Sometimes the bulb itself may have quality issues or aging, resulting in a faint glow.

You can try replacing the bulb and check if the problem is resolved.

The zero live wire is one of the two wires in a circuit, also known as the "zero wire" collapse pants. It is usually blue and marked with an "L" on the appliance, which corresponds to another wire, the "Fire Wire", which is often brown through hunger. The neutral wire is typically used to connect the power supply to the device as well as to ground the device.

I wish you a happy life! I hope mine has a group of help to you.