The prawn computer does not move, the fan turns, and there are three intermittent rings 10

You can follow the tips below to find the problem with your hardware.

1. Meaning of Award BIOS self-test bell:

1 Short: The system starts normally. Congratulations, there is nothing wrong with your machine.

2 Short: General error, please go to CMOS Setup and reset the incorrect options.

1 long and 1 short: There is an error with the RAM or motherboard. Try to change the memory, if it still doesn't work, you have to change the motherboard.

1 long and 2 short: The display or graphics card is wrong.

1 long and 3 short: The keyboard controller is wrong. Check the motherboard.

1 Long 9 Short: Motherboard Flash RAM or EPROM error, BIOS corruption. Try a different block of flash ram.

Constant ringing (long sound): The memory module is not plugged in tightly or is damaged. If it still doesn't work, you can only replace a memory module.

Ringing: The power supply and monitor are not properly connected to the graphics card. Check all the plugs.

Repeated, short ring: There is a problem with the power supply.

No sound and no display: There is a problem with the power supply.

Part 2: Meaning of AMI BIOS self-test ringtone:

1 Short: The memory refresh failed. Replace the memory module.

2 Short: The memory ECC verification error is incorrect. Setting the memory option for ECC check to Disabled in CMOS Setup will solve the problem, but the most fundamental solution is to replace a memory.

3. Short: The basic memory of the system (the first 64KB) failed to be checked. Change memory.

4 Short: The system clock is wrong.

5 Short: Processor (CPU) error.

6 Short: Keyboard controller error.

7 short: The real mode of the system is wrong and cannot be switched to protection mode.

8 Short: A memory error is displayed. If there is a problem with the display memory, try changing the graphics card.

9 Short: ROM BIOS check and error.

1 long and 3 short: memory error. If the memory is damaged, it can be replaced.

1 long and 8 short: A test error is displayed. The monitor cable is not plugged in properly or the graphics card is not plugged in properly.

Part 3: Phoenix BIOS self-test bell meaning:

Self-test bell Self-test bell meaning.

1. Short: The system starts up normally.

1 short, 1 short, 2 short, motherboard error.

1 Short 1 Short 4 Short ROM BIOS verification error.

1 Short 2 Short 2 Short DMA initialization failed.

1 Short 3 Short 1 Short RAM refresh error.

1 Short 3 Short 3 Short Basic memory error.

1 short, 4 short, 2 short, basic memory verification error.

1 Short 4 Short 4 Short EISA NMI port error.

3 Short 1 Short 1 Short from DMA register error.

3 Short 1 Short 3 Short The main interrupt handles register errors.

3 Short 2 Short 4 Short Keyboard controller error.

3 Short 4 Short 2 Short Error is displayed.

4 Short 2 Short 2 Short Shutdown error.

4 Short, 2 Short, 4 Short, Protected Mode Interrupt.

It's a loose memory, and you can reinsert the memory to solve it!

Power on self-test alarm sound.

The instructions are as follows: 1 Short: The system starts normally and there is no problem with the machine.

2 Short: Regular error. Please go to BIOS Setup and reset the incorrect options.

1 long and 1 short: RAM or motherboard is wrong.

1 long and 2 short: The display or graphics card is wrong.

1 long and 3 short: The keyboard controller is wrong. Check the motherboard.

1 Long 9 Short: Motherboard Flash RAM or EPROM error, BIOS corruption.

Constant ringing (long sound): The memory module is not plugged in tightly or is damaged.

Non-stop ringing: The power supply, the monitor is not properly connected to the graphics card. Check all the plugs.

No sound and no display: There is a problem with the power supply.

BIOS POST alarm sound.

The description is as follows: 1 Short: The memory refresh fails. Replace the memory module.

2 Short: The memory ECC verification error is incorrect. Please go to BIOS Setup and reset the memory to Disable, but the fundamental solution is to replace a memory.

3 Short: System base RAM (first 640KB) check failed. Change memory.

4 Short: The system clock is wrong.

5 Short: CPU error.

6 Short: Keyboard controller error.

7 short: The real mode of the system is wrong and cannot be switched to protection mode.

8 Short: A memory error is displayed. Just change the graphics card.

9 Short: ROM BIOS check and error.

1 long and 3 short: memory error.

1 long and 8 short: A test error is displayed. The monitor cable is not plugged in properly or the graphics card is not plugged in properly.

3。Compatible with BIOS POST alarm sound.

The instructions are as follows: 1 Short: The system starts normally and there is no problem with the machine.

2. Short: The system power-on self-test (POST) failed.

1 Long: Power error, if there is no display, it is a graphics card error.

1 long and 1 short: The motherboard is wrong.

1 long and 2 short: The display card is incorrect.

1 Short 1 Short 1 Short: Power supply error.

3 long and 1 short: keyboard error.

Clean up the memory pins and slots, it should be a memory problem.

How can it be so scary, try to turn off all the peripherals, press and hold the power switch for a minute, and let the static electricity try!

I've had this question before.

It could be a problem with the hard drive.

Problem analysis: This noise is generally caused by the internal fans of the host, including the power supply, CPU, and graphics card fans. Because of the cold weather, the effectiveness of the lubricant inside the fan decreases, and there is more dust, the running speed of the fan decreases, and the friction increases.

If the noise resonates with the chassis frame, not only the loud noise but the entire chassis will vibrate. After a period of use, the lubricant inside the fan gradually recovers due to frictional heat, and the sound is reduced accordingly. In addition, it is not excluded that the internal screws of the chassis may loosen and cause noise, and the mechanical hard disk will also produce noise when reading and writing.

Handling suggestions: 1. Use leather tigers, soft brushes, etc. to dust and lubricate the fan inside the case, or directly replace the new fan.

2. Tighten the screws on each part of the chassis.

3. If the mechanical hard disk is noisy, it can be replaced with a new hard disk or solid state drive.

The fan is aging, it is recommended to replace it with a new fan, usually a CPU fan.

The fan is short of oil, and the sound will be much quieter when you add some oil.

It's normal, the fan automatically adjusts the speed.

The fan has been used for a long time, the motor in the fan is lost, and the shaft sleeve of the motor is worn out, which is easy to burn off.

Maintenance method: For the fan blades caused by wear and tear do not rotate, the easiest way is to replace the shaft sleeve.

Excessive axial clearance of the motor's rotating shaft can also cause the load to be unable to be dragged away.

Maintenance method: If the motor is disassembled, the axial clearance of the rotating shaft is too large, and it should be adjusted by adjusting the gasket. When installing the motor, the rotor must be concentric with the bearing, the screws should be slowly tightened diagonally, and then the screw should be knocked on the shaft with a wooden handle to make it concentric.

It's easy to disassemble the motor, but it's not easy to install it back again, don't let the above situation happen, otherwise, it will be repaired directly.

If the motor lubrication is not good, there will generally be noise coming out, and more seriously the fan does not rotate. In the event of a power outage, if you pull the fan blades with your hands, the fan will also be a little stiff.

Maintenance method: In this case, just add some oil to the motor, if you really can't find the lubricating oil, the vegetable oil at home is also OK.

It may also be caused by improper tightening of the screw and the jamming of the rotor core during rotation. Because the gap between the stator and rotor cores of the asynchronous motor used by the electric fan is very small, generally less, the screws should be tightened one by one in the order of the diagonal during general installation, if the diagonal order (but in the order of adjacency) is not used to tighten the screws, it is easy to cause the stator and rotor cores to be stuck, and cause the fault phenomenon that the motor does not rotate. The "whining" sound is caused by the electromagnetic force between the stator and rotor.

Check whether it is stuck, and when you turn the rotor in the case of power failure, you can feel whether it is stuck. It should be noted that do not drive the blades to rotate with your hands when electrified, otherwise it is easy to hurt your fingers in case it is not stuck.

If the starting capacitor is broken, if there is no other problem, the blade will turn when it is dialed, and the capacitor can be replaced if it is broken.

If the bearing is stuck, the bearing should be cleaned and lubricated.

The motor coil is broken in one phase, and there is also one phase energized, so there is the sound of electric current and cannot be rotated, so the motor must be repaired or replaced with a new motor.

Hello, there are four possibilities: 1. The main winding or secondary winding of the motor is interrupted between turns, and only one group of windings works and cannot produce the rotating magnetic field required by the motor, so there is no sound and no rotation. 2. The starting capacitor is broken and cannot provide enough rotational torque to the motor.

3. The sound is not produced by the synchronous motor, in fact, the motor and control circuit have been damaged. 4. The grid voltage is too low to start the motor.

If there is a buzzing sound after the electric fan is started, it means that the power supply is on, you can gently dial the fan page to see if it can rotate, if it can turn, it is caused by the reduction of the capacity of the starting capacitor, change to a starting capacitor with the same capacity and a slightly higher withstand voltage to try. If the fan does not rotate after turning the fan, the motor of the fan is faulty and needs to be repaired or replaced.

If the electric fan has not been used for a long time, it may also be caused by a lack of lubricating oil, you can inject some liquid oil into the front and rear axles of the motor and turn the fan page, wait for five minutes for the oil to seep in, turn on the power supply and try to see if it can be turned.

It is not lubricated, just get some lubricating oil, the reason is that the motor is long and will heat up, so that part of the lubricating oil evaporates, and the rest is the sticky lubricating oil grease, so it is not lubricated, do not dare to get edible oil sesame oil, because it is very good to use it for a period of time at the beginning, it cannot be turned, and it must be lubricated. It is not lubricated, just get some lubricating oil, the reason is that the motor is long and will heat up, so that part of the lubricating oil evaporates, and the rest is the sticky lubricating oil grease, so it is not lubricated, do not dare to get edible oil sesame oil, because it is very good to use it for a period of time at the beginning, it cannot be turned, and it must be lubricated.

There are three kinds of faults: 1. The motor lacks oil and stagnates. 2. Capacitor failure.

3. The motor is damaged. The most new electric fans in 2 years are the [iron tile] motor bearings, which are astringent and stagnant, and need to be disassembled, cleaned and refueled. The inspection method is to turn the fan blade with chopsticks when the power is off, which should be very flexible and rotate many times by inertia, while the lack of oil and the pad to dial the fan blade is astringent and has no rotational inertia.

If you confirm that the fan blade is very flexible, you can use chopsticks to dial the fan blade after powering on, and the fan is running normally, most of the capacitors have failed, and rarely the starting coil is broken. To put it simply, it is to turn off the power and dial the fan blades to see if it is flexible, and then power on to help whether it is running normally, you can judge the fault, and the motor is the least damaged.

The capacitor of the electric fan is burned, the motor is broken, the rotation is inflexible, and it is stuck, etc.

The electric fan should be lubricated and maintained frequently, otherwise it will rust, abnormal noise, wear the bearings, and even damage the motor.

Most of the well-known electric fan factories such as Beriaco use fully synthetic electric fan lubricants from Hotolube or Kluber. Fully synthetic base oil production, clear and transparent, colorless and odorless, low temperature resistance, no dust. Tao Feng has a 120ml white sharp mouth small oil bottle, just drop a few drops, easy to use.

It is not suitable to use ordinary engine oil and butter, which will volatilize quickly in summer and will have an unhealthy odor.

The motor is broken, and the heating is working.

1. If the motor bearing is seriously worn or the lubricating oil is dry, you can use your hand to wave the blade to see if the rotation is flexible and without resistance, if there is resistance to rotation, you should replace the worn bearing or fill the lubricating oil to make it rotate flexibly without resistance.

2. If the capacitor is damaged, a new capacitor of the same capacity should be replaced.

3. If there is an inter-turn short circuit fault in the motor coil, the motor should be replaced with a new one.

1. Lack of oil in the bearing... 2. The starting capacitor is broken... 3. The starting coil is burned out...

Let's see if the time has passed.

Reasons: 1. The layout of the cable in the case is unreasonable, and the computer fan touches the cable when it rotates, which causes the problem of high noise in the case

2. The computer fan in the chassis is not installed firmly, and the vibration occurs when the fan rotates, resulting in a sudden louder sound in the chassis

3. If there is dust in the case fan, and the resistance of the fan increases when it rotates, the computer fan will be loud

Solution: Open the case to make a panel, remove the power supply, remove the front panel of the case, and use a vacuum cleaner to suck up the dust inside the first panel, power supply, CPU radiator, and graphics card fan (if any). If you don't have a vacuum cleaner, you can blow these places with a pump, take it outside the house to blow, it will burst out a lot of dust, wipe the inside of the case with a rag dipped in alcohol, if there is no alcohol, wipe it with a rag with a little water. Dry in the ventilated place for 1 hour, if you wipe it with water in the previous step, it will take a longer time, cool for a day, and finally install the power supply case.