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Slotted wardrobe switch socket is a task that requires specialized skills and tools. First of all, you need to prepare an electric grooving machine and a suitable grooving tool. Then, determine the location and size of the socket, using a ruler and a pencil to mark the location of the slots on the wardrobe.
Next, use an electric grooving machine to grooving in the marked position, making sure that the cutting depth and width are appropriate for the size of the socket. Finally, install the socket into the slot, make sure the socket is flush with the surface of the wardrobe, and connect the power cord.
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In the Chinese market, the ** range of slotted wardrobe switch sockets is larger, depending on different brands, materials and functions. Generally speaking, a regular switch socket** is between 10-50 yuan, while high-end brands or more functional sockets** may exceed 100 yuan.
If you don't have the relevant skills and experience, it is recommended that you hire a professional electrician or decorator to complete the task of slotting the wardrobe switch socket. They have extensive experience and professional tools to ensure the quality and safety of their work. In addition, they can provide more suggestions and options based on your needs to ensure that the location and function of the outlet meets your needs.
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1. Nail the wire box on the wardrobe, go to the decoration market to buy an ultra-thin cassette box, about 2 3 thick ordinary boxes, and then buy a switch, or remove the original wall switch and install it on the cassette.
2. Connect the cassette to the original wall, and buy a whiteboard to buckle the original cassette.
3. It is recommended to fix the wardrobe and wall with hardware, so as not to cause disasters by moving folded wires in the future.
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Then it depends on what material the wardrobe is, if it is solid wood, then there is no problem, if it is a combination of board and wood, then you have to think about it.
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The installation of wall switches in the wardrobe must be placed outside the closed or sliding door, and do a good job of insulation protection - use insulated, flame-retardant bottom box, connectors and binding posts.
Use a flame retardant heat dissipation bottom box, make a good joint, and if the pipeline is not at ease, you can add a sheath pipe, which is much safer. If there is a short circuit in the electricity at home, there is no need to worry about Shengxiang.
There is leakage in the distribution box, once there is a failure, it will trip directly, as long as the master's craftsmanship is good enough, even if it is used for decades, there is no problem.
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1. Clean the bottom box of the switch and socket.
The switch socket is installed after the carpenter, painter, etc., and the bottom box that has been left for a long time will inevitably accumulate a lot of dust. Clean the switch socket bottom box during installation, especially clean the dust and impurities in the box, and wipe the residual dust in the box with a damp cloth. Doing so prevents special impurities from affecting the use of the circuit.
2. Power cord treatment.
Leave the wire thrown out of the box for repair, and then cut out the core, taking care not to touch the core. Coil the wire clockwise on the binding post corresponding to the switch or socket, and then tighten the indenter, requiring that the core is not exposed.
3. Three-wire wiring method of socket.
The live wire is connected to one of the two holes of the switch, and then the insulated wire is connected from the other hole to the L hole of the three holes of the socket below. The neutral wire is directly connected to the N hole in the 3 holes of the socket. The ground wire is directly connected to the E hole in the 3 holes of the socket.
If the neutral wire is misconnected with the ground wire, the electrical appliance will trip when it is used.
Fourth, the switch and socket are fixed and installed.
First, the wire thrown out of the box is threaded through the outlet hole of the plastic table, and then the plastic table is tightly attached to the wall and fixed to the box with screws. After fixing, the wires are threaded out of the wire holes of the switch socket according to their respective positions, and the wires are pressed firmly according to the wiring requirements.
Finally, attach the switch or socket to the plastic table, align it and fix it firmly with screws, and cover it with a decorative plate.
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Method 1, the switch should be 130 150cm from the ground, 15 20cm from the side of the door frame, and cannot be installed behind the door. The position of the wall switch with wainscoting is at least above the top of the board, the height of the surface-mounted socket from the ground is not lower, the installation socket is not lower, and the kitchen and bathroom are determined separately. Do not install on the head of the bed or on the tabletop, and all switches should be closed in the same direction.
The correct installation method of the wall switch socket is two, the bathroom and balcony should be equipped with a splash-proof socket, or equipped with a waterproof box, and the bathtub, faucet, and stove can not be installed above, and the 20cm around the gas meter cannot be installed. The correct installation method of the wall switch socket is three, the household appliances are strictly with two-hole sockets, the power of the bath bomb switch is large, and more places need to be left for electrical appliances that are often plugged and unplugged. The correct installation method of the wall switch socket is four, calculate the load, the socket without fixed load is calculated by 1000 watts, and the ordinary socket uses a square millimeter copper core wire.
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Wall switch socket installation method.
1.The switch should be 13to 150cm, 15 to 20cm from the edge of the door frame, the switch socket can not be installed behind the door, the wall switch position with wainscoting is at least above the top of the board, the open switch socket should be higher than the ground, and the socket should not be lower than when installing the socket. Of course, it is also best not to install it on the head of the bed and on the table, so the direction of the switch is consistent.
2.In bathrooms and balconies, splash-proof sockets should be installed with splash-proof sockets, or equipped with waterproof boxes, and the switches and sockets cannot be installed on the faucets, stoves, bathtubs and 20cm around the gas meter.
3.In the home, appliances are strictly used with two-prong sockets. In the bathroom, the power of the bath bomb switch is large, so you need to leave more space; Appliances usually need to be plugged and unplugged, and sockets with switches are available.
4.When calculating the load rate, sockets without fixed load are generally calculated as 1000 watts, and ordinary sockets usually use copper core wires in square millimeters.
5.The ground wire on the three-pin socket, the phase wire on the right, the zero wire on the left, and the two-pronged socket should be the same.
6.To securely install the wall switch socket, its connector needs to be tightened.
7.When confirming the installation, all wires are in full contact with the switch, socket and rear seat terminal head.
8.When installing the wall switch socket, the switch is mostly opened and closed by the opposite hand, the right object is more than the left hand, usually on the left side of the door, the door switch should be fluorescent type best.
How to wire the wall socket.
We all know that household electricity usually has three wires of fire wire, zero wire and grounding wire to be safe, of which the grounding wire is generally yellow and green two-color wire, when the switch socket is wired, we have to use the electric test pen to find out the fire and zero wire, and use the color as a good mark.
a.If the wall switch is used to control the power supply of the socket, the wiring method is: first connect the L terminal of the switch for the wire, (i.e., the live wire inlet), and then connect the L1 terminal of the switch (i.e., the live wire outlet) with the L terminal of the two-hole socket (i.e., the live wire terminal), sponsor link.
Then connect the neutral wire to the N terminal (neutral terminal port) of the socket, and you're good to go.
b.If the socket is not controlled by a switch, the switch will only control the lamp, then the wiring method is: connect the live wire to the L terminal of the switch, connect the L1 terminal of the switch with a terminal of the lamp head, connect the zero wire to another terminal of the lamp head, and form a loop between the switch and the lamp.
Then connect the live wire to the L terminal block of the two-pin socket, and connect the neutral wire to the N terminal block of the receptacle, and the two-pin socket becomes another circuit.
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1: Concealed installation: according to the wiring requirements, connect the wire thrown out of the box with the panel of the switch and socket, push the switch or socket into the box to align the box eye, and fix it firmly with machine screws.
When fixing, make the panel upright and flush with the wall. If there is a decorative cap on the panel mounting hole, it should be installed together.
2: surface-mounted: first throw out of the box from the wire out of the plastic table out of the hole, and then the plastic table is tightly attached to the wall with screws fixed on the box or wooden bricks, if it is open wiring, the hidden wire groove on the wooden table should first follow the direction of the wire, and then fix it firmly with screws.
After the plastic table is fixed, the phase wire and ground (zero) wire thrown out are threaded out of the wire hole of the switch and socket according to their respective positions, and the wire is pressed firmly according to the wiring requirements. Then attach the switch or socket to the plastic table, align it, and fix it firmly with wooden screws. Finally, put the cover plate of the switch and socket on the plate.
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You didn't say what kind of socket it was? **It's also not clear. I guess it's a switch-type socket, the socket can be used after being connected, and the switch also works, that is, press the switch, the light is on, press the switch back, the light is off, and the socket can be used if the switch is not on or not (the light is not on)!
I didn't see the ** on the front, and I didn't see the symbol of the marking of the binding post, if it was a switch like I said, you would connect the wires into the home on the two binding posts of the socket, the blue wire on the 'L', and the yellow wire on the 'n'. Then connect the blue wire on the lamp to the upper 'l', and the yellow wire to the 'n' in a straight line opposite the 'l'. If the socket can be used and the light is not on, it means that there is no wire in the socket to the line on the lamp, you can first use a yellow wire to connect the 'n' on the socket and another 'n' without a wire.
If the light is not lit after pressing the switch, use a section of blue wire to connect the 'L' on the socket and the 'L' on the light cable. That should do!
I don't know which is the entrance line, test with an electric pen, generally yellow, red is the live line, and blue is the zero line. You can test it with an electric pen first, and then connect it.
If that doesn't work, find an electrician at the property. Hope it helps.
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