How to repot flowers and precautions, methods and precautions for repotting flowers

3 wrong ways to depot when repotting flowers, and 3 correct ways to depot.

Flower repotting operation and precautions:Winter flowers are generally in the dormant period, the growth is stagnant or slow, and the root system cannot be damaged, so it is not recommended to repot in winter. If you have to change the travel fruit, you can use the false planting method.

Select the flower pot to be replaced, use nutrient soil to fill the bottom of the flower pot, put the flowers to be replaced into the new pot with the pot guess, adjust the height and return to the nutrient soil, and gently compact. Then slowly take out the flowers, and put them directly into a new pot after the panicle is depotted, and the soil is completed. The advantage of this is that it does not hurt the root system and can serve the pot faster.

However, there is a caveat, generally speaking, the flowers on the market are cultivated using nutrient soil, which is loose and breathable, and rich in humus. When we change the pot, we also need to use humus soil or directly purchased nutrient soil, so that the soil composition is similar, but can not use the garden soil, the composition is too different, resulting in flowers can not be potted for a long time.

1. Knock off the edges

During the production process of flower pots, the hole in the bottom of the pot often has an upward edge, which should be knocked out when changing pots if it is not removed and will affect the drainage in the rainy season.

2. Cut off the old roots

The root mound poured out during repotting must be cut off with sharp scissors to remove the outer layer of old roots, and the root topsoil must also be loosened. Otherwise, the root system is bent and curled around the pot wall and does not stretch, which is easily affected by drought, waterlogging and heat changes, and the plant often does not develop well.

3. Potting soil compaction

After the new soil is repotted, the potting soil must be compacted to avoid the emergence of holes in the potting soil after watering, which will affect the absorption of water by the root system. And it is necessary to leave a watering edge, and there should be no place for water to stop because the potting soil is full.

4. Watering thoroughly

First, the root water must be watered thoroughly, and you must see that there is water flowing out of the bottom of the pot. This is because there is a gap between the new soil and the old soil and the roots of the plants, and the new soil can be solidified and fully integrated with the roots of the plants, which is conducive to the absorption of water and nutrients by the plants.

Second, wait for half an hour after the first watering and water again, so that the soil can be completely compacted and leave no gaps.

Third, after watering the roots, put the plants in a cool place (not used in winter), avoid sunlight, and do not water again until the soil is dry. If the plant is watered all the time after a new transplant, the plant cannot breathe and is prone to root rot and die.

Fourth, the root water must be watered, even if it rains, because if the rain is small, it is difficult to make the soil compact, which will cause the top to be wet and the bottom to dry, and the plant is easy to die.

1. The most suitable time for repotting is in spring and autumn, and it should never be repotted in the middle of summer. It is most suitable to be carried out in the dormant stage and early growth stage of the plant, and these two stages of repotting have the least impact on plant growth.

2. Choose the size of the pot according to the size of the plant. The diameter of the pot is 3-6 cm larger than the diameter of the root. The bigger the pot, the better, the pot is too large, the fertilizer and water are difficult to control, but it affects the nutritional balance of the plant.

3. Try to choose softer soil, so that the air permeability is strong and the survival rate is high. Then when planting, you can spread a little organic fertilizer on the bottom of the pot, and you should be careful not to let the roots of the plant touch the fertilizer.

First, the method of changing the pot:

1. First draw a circle (as deep as possible) with iron nails on the soil close to the pot on the wall of the pot, so as to facilitate the overall detachment of the soil ball.

2. The soil ball that came out showed that the root system was developed and had spread around the pot wall, and the nutrients that were originally in the pot soil were almost absorbed by the plants.

3. After the soil ball is taken out, the soil ball can be gently broken, and the root system can be slowly and thoroughly peeled off the old soil ball; It can also be rinsed with water to make all the roots come out; Then carefully look at the state of the roots, and remove the old roots and bad **. Then cut off the transverse branches, weak branches, and overlapping branches on the inner side of the plant.

4. Before the basin, the water outlet at the bottom of the basin can be stacked with two tiles (the "in" zigzag tile is good), which is done in order to: first, keep the water outlet unobstructed and prevent water accumulation and rotten roots to the greatest extent; The second is to increase the air exchange in the potting soil, which facilitates the respiration of the root system and provides the air for the plants to maintain the optimal growth state.

5. After the tiles are stacked at the outlet, you can spread a layer of organic fertilizer soil (or nutrient soil (or nutrient soil) at the bottom of the pot (depending on the size of the pot), put the pruned plants in the middle of the pot, and leave a gap of 2-3 cm between the plants and the pot.

6. Fill the reserved void with organic fertilizer soil (or nutrient soil), and if the filling is too full, at least 2-3 cm must be reserved to facilitate watering and water storage.

7. After completing the above procedures, pour enough root water at one time, and turn the pot to change the soil.

2. Precautions for changing pots:

1. When changing pots, bring as much soil as possible to the roots of the plants, and try to avoid bare roots; This is due to the fact that transplanting with soil is easier to survive than transplanting with bare roots.

2. When changing pots, if the original flower pot is a soft plastic pot (or paper cup), it is recommended to cut it open, which will not hurt the plant roots.

3. Do not change pots continuously in a short period of time, general plants, between two pot changes, at least half a year or even longer; But for the plants in the nursery, there are special circumstances, depending on the growth of the seedlings, the seedlings grow up, you can change it, which can be changed often.

Suspend watering for 1 or 2 days before changing pots to make the potting soil dry, so that the potting soil can be separated from the pot wall and conducive to the operation.

When changing pots, small and medium-sized pots can be gently tapped around the pot by hand to separate the potting soil from the pot slightly, and then the pot and the plants are poured to the side. At this time, hold the plant with one hand, and use the other hand to use the thumb or wooden stick to push a few times from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, or gently buckle the bottom of the pot, and the plant can be poured out with the mound. If it is a perennial flower, it is necessary to shovel off a layer of the original soil shoulder and the surrounding external lodging soil, cut off the rotten branches, curly roots and some old roots, fill the large pot with new cultivation soil, and plant it in it; If it is a woody flower, you can appropriately remove part of the original mound and cut off part of the old dead roots, and generally should also be planted in a large pot, and pay attention to adding new culture soil.

The planting method when changing pots is basically the same as the method of potting.

role="Figure repotting (removing plants from smaller pots and planting them in larger pots).