Why do birds hit their cages in the evening? Why do birds crash into cages and die, is it depression

If some birds hit the cage, they can be solved by changing the cage for them, but instead of changing the big cage, but changing the small round cage or directly using the lattice cage, the internal space of the cage is very small, and the birds have no room for buffering, so the impact of hitting the cage is not very large, and there will be no head breaking blood flow! In addition, don't cover the cage, just keep it in a bright cage!

Many friends' birdcage manure basins are in the birdcage, this method is to take out the manure basin, instead of placing the manure basin under the cage, if it is hanging in the wild, then you can directly do not use the manure basin! This method is mainly very useful for some new birds, to avoid bird droppings piling up in the cage, causing ornamental birds to hit the cage!

Adjust the bird bar. There are two ways to adjust this, one is to directly do not put the bird bar, but use a hood to cover the feeding, and only need to feed in a corner when feeding! Birds without a bird bar will walk around at the bottom of the cage, and even if they hit the cage at this time, the damage is very small!

The second way to adjust the bird bar is to place the bird bar higher, so that there is no room for the birds to move, and because there is less space on the head, the birds will not look up!

Normally, in the evening, as the light starts to dim, the birds start to rest for the day, and if your bird keeps hitting the cage, it means that he is not feeling well.

Causes of birds hitting their cages in the evening may include the following:

1.Birds may be frightened by not being able to see other birds in the evening, and this is when they may take some action to seek protection, such as squeezing into a cage.

2.Birds may be startled by hearing other birds or animals in the evening, and they may take some action to seek protection, such as hitting a cage.

3.Birds may be upset by the dimming of the light in the evening, at which point they may take some action to seek protection, such as hitting a cage.

To prevent birds from hitting their cages in the evening, you can do the following:

1.Place a mirror of the appropriate size next to the cage so that the birds can see other birds.

2.Avoid making loud noises near the cage to avoid startling the birds.

3.Add a blackout cloth around the cage to avoid light changes affecting the birds.

The raw thrush can be conditioned in a short period of time without pounce, jumping or hitting the cage, and I follow the method of bird watching training. It's just that the source and fear of the thrush raise its head, and some places are different from conditioning other birds.

There is only one premise: you must have time and patience. Otherwise, all the work will be wasted.

On the first day after the raw thrush is in the cage, let it eat and drink. Then holding the cage and slowly opening the half of the hood, the thrush naturally panicked and began to pounce, jump, and hit the cage, and then you slowly lowered the cage. This should be done repeatedly, preferably once every hour or so.

Until dark! Remember to only add water and not food. At night, open the half cover and place it in front of the TV to let it gradually adapt to the programs on the TV.

At first it is not used to it, but soon it will get used to it, forming that you turn on your TV and it sleeps peacefully. I think the length of time I watch TV is critical, because I always let it see it at 12 o'clock at night, even if it is sleeping, and I am still on. This is the case every day before the training.

After there is no feed in the cage can, you must not add it! You start feeding it bugs while the cage is half open. Tie the worm with a thin wire and hand it to it, and start it dare not eat it.

Don't worry, if it doesn't eat, put 2 or 3 worms in the cage before it falls into the hood. Repeatedly, the thrush will gradually form a conditioned reflex. At the same time, after opening the hood, you will not panic, and dare to take the insects in your hands to eat.

When the half cover is not pounced, jumped, or hit the cage, start to play the full cover. The same goes for watching TV at night.

During this period, you should insist on walking the birds early in the morning every day, hang away from the places where there are few people, and do not be with other students. I will go in the afternoon if possible. You should also bathe it, watch it from the side, let the bird adapt to the environment, and shorten the distance between you and the stranger.

The method of wearing a mask, watching TV, and fasting is actually a kind of training to strengthen and familiarize the thrush, just like the northerners boil eagles. Halfway through, you can't do it. Seven days is the time I have recuperated.

I'm good at training and playing bird watching, and I understand the mystery from one another, so I do this to the raw thrush.

Frequent overshadowing is very troublesome, and in general you have to be with the thrush almost all day long, and the strength is not strong enough to achieve a bad effect!

The main reason why the thrush hits the cage is that it is not familiar with its owner. There are the following ways to deal with it:

Raising new birds, especially the old ones, is the first priority to prevent their heads from breaking their heads and bleeding from hitting their cages. Generally, lattice cages are used (flat cages, row cages, ranging from two to six grids, and there are also several layers), because the lattice cage space is small, and the bird is powerless if there is no distance between the cage. For bird lovers, generally not a lot, no lattice cage, in the general bright cage breeding, in addition to the multi-shroud cage, there are six ways to prevent the cage from hitting:

First, it is usually to remove the manure bottom plate, hang the cage, not too high, and set up something that supports manure at a certain distance under the cage. This method is also useful when feeding new birds in a cage. Bird poop doesn't stack too high in the cage.

Easy to clean on the floor of the manure support. In some places, there is no dung floor at all, which is more suitable for raising birds in rural or suburban areas.

Second, there is no perching bar, use the small cage of the medium bird, cover the cage, open the front corner when feeding, the bird will only turn its head downward in panic, looking for a hole to prepare to escape, unable to fly. As you may all know, birds fly most vigorously when they stand on the perch bar, so we don't let it stand on the perch bar.

Third, you can also put the perch bar just one bird high from the top of the cage, the bird has touched the top of the cage as soon as the bird stands on the perch, at this time, the new bird generally jumps down again, there is no perch bar at the bottom of the cage, and will jump up to the perch bar, and so on repeatedly. You can also set up a few more perches in the cage to reduce the space for movement. If you put it on a crowded road, or place various colored cloth strips in the cage, so that the objects of various colors will shake.

Or hang a small bell on the cloth strip, the thrush jumps, and the small bell rings, so that the thrush can get used to the sound environment as soon as possible. The above method is advisable to lift the cloth cover less.

Fourth, in order to tame, you can also use the starvation method when you have time, not to feed, but you must feed often to prevent starvation. Do not exceed an hour to prevent too much drop in physical strength, especially for fighting birds. So that the thrush can eat when it sees people, and it produces a conditioned reflex, and it quickly produces a sense of closeness.

After taming, the owner often flapps his wings in welcome. If you are a little hungry, only feed a few grains at a time, and see that the owner will keep pounced, as if he is very afraid of people, but in fact, he is pounced. Hungry birds are less likely to hit cages.

Fifth, the method of squatting on the ground is adopted, that is, it is always placed on the ground, which is not afraid of people, but it is not easy to bark. This method is generally only used when the raw birds are started to be fed. There is also the moulting period, so as not to let it bark too much.

Sixth, the slightly ripe ones can be hung in the corners of the wall, and the new birds will have a sense of security. Compared with the cage, it has its superiority. Because it is hung in the corner of the house, it is not shrouded, but it is equivalent to a two-sided shroud in the corner of the wall, which can speed up the familiarization of new birds.

And less scary than a wall.

Seventh, in the case that the cage has been lifted, lift the birdcage, if it is troublesome to cover the cloth, you can use the female bird to lift it, and the new bird will not be very afraid. If the original feed more birds, use a small row cage, after reducing the amount of feeding, in order to increase the activity of the kiln, you can combine two small grids into a grid, draw the partition, into a long cage (no perching rod), due to the large space left and right, the bird will only run left and right when you see people in the cage, and will not hit forward.

If you release it, you won't bump into it, just kidding, it's okay to take it to a tree in the woods for a walk, it might be better.

The animal needs to be free, and of course it will hit the cage if it wants to get out!

Use a small cage first, and use a thin sponge on the top of the cage, which will not hurt the bird, (in fact, it is afraid, and it will always hit the head when jumping to the top of the cage) to overcome rigidity with softness. It's as simple as that.

This may be the nature of some birds, while others will bite their tongues and kill themselves once they are caught in a cage.

It is uncertain whether the bird hit the cage and died was depressed, but at least it was a bird with a strong personality that valued freedom more than life.

Generally, wild birds are not suitable for domestication, and they are indeed depressed and die! They can't soar freely in the skies, unless they are born with some kind of ornamental bird in captivity. He was born in this environment, so he doesn't know how big the outside world is, and what it means to him?

Sometimes when the female bird is about to hatch, the male bird maintains the safety of the female bird, and also flies back and forth!

The lark should be scared when it hits the cage, so take a black cloth to cover the cage and cover it. Don't open it for no reason, as this will frighten the bird.

Lark habits.

Frolicking in arid mountains, deserts, grasslands or rocks, living in groups during the non-breeding period, often flying low or running for short distances, feeding on insects and grass seeds. The breeding period is 5 July, the nest is on the ground at the base of the grass, and each nest lays 4 5 eggs, the eggs are light brown or nearly white, and the eggs are densely covered with brown spots.

Distribution: Resident birds and summer migratory birds in Northwest China, with a large number in the northern part of the country during the migration period.

The lark is a representative bird of the grassland and belongs to the small songbirds. The lark has a beautiful crest of feathers on its head, the beak is smaller and conical, some species are long and slightly curved, in the vast prairie, under the blue sky and white clouds, the green grass is like a tree, boundless, under the firmament, often one after another plays a beautiful music that even the ** family is difficult to compose, that is, the love song sung by the larks, when the lark flies from the flat ground, often while flying while singing, because it flies very high, people often only hear its sound, do not see it, the lark has now been included in the national second-class protected animals.

Isn't it an adult bird that has been caught since childhood, and of course I want to go out after being locked in a cage.

It should be when you're in the cage that he jumps up and down Actually, he figured it out! Not only will the tail be scraped off by the cage strip, but the hair on the beak will also be bald if you drill out a lot, and the bird should be relatively peaceful when you're not around

It should be a bird for a few months

It's okay to put as little as possible Now is the anti-growth period, and after a few months of feathering, the hair will come out, and the anti-growth period will also become larger, and it will be much quieter at that time

If it really doesn't work, cover a cage coat first, and the bird will stop making trouble as soon as it gets dark