Is it okay to plant the freshly harvested taro?

You can't plant the taro that you have just harvested, because you have already destroyed its habitat when you receive it, and it will rot when you put it back in the ground, which is not suitable.

There is a season for growing taro, but you can plant it if you want to.

Taro can be harvested after 7 months of planting, usually sown in March and April every year, and mature in October and November every year.

Taro can be harvested after 7 months of planting, and when planting taro, you can choose to do it in March and April every spring, because the temperature at this time is more suitable, which is conducive to the rapid emergence of plants, and in October and November every autumn, the taro can mature.

When planting taro, it is necessary to choose full, healthy, disease-free tubers, and then use a sharp and sterilized knife to cut the tubers into small pieces, and then put them into the plant ash for mixing and stirring, so as to eliminate surface germs and reduce the probability of taro infection.

When growing taro, you need to apply well-rotted cake fertilizer, farmhouse fertilizer and plant ash to the soil to make it more fertile, and then sprinkle small pieces of taro evenly on the soil surface, and then cover it with a layer of plastic film.

When breeding taro, it is necessary to uncover the plastic film in time after the plant emerges, so as to avoid the seedlings being weak and yellow, and the taro growth period needs to be top-applied fertilizer once a month, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or urea can be selected, so that the tuber of the plant expands rapidly, so that the yield of taro is improved.

Taro is generally harvested in late summer or autumn (August-October). It takes about 180 to 260 days from planting to maturity, and the harvest time is between August and October, the early-maturing varieties can be harvested around August, and the late-maturing varieties are generally not harvested until September to October.

Choose a sunny and leeward place with good drainage to build a seedbed, then spread the seedbed with soil at a thickness of 10-15 cm that can sow stable taro, and prepare compost or fertile fine soil for taro. Land consolidation: deep ploughing and deep ploughing of the land, apply 3000kg of high-quality organic fertilizer and an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer.

Sowing: sow 100-150kg per mu of seedbed (specification 10cm 10cm), and wait until the buds grow to 3-5cm for transplanting. Colonization:

Equal row spacing cultivation, plant spacing is controlled at 30-40cm, row spacing is controlled at 70-80cm, and 3000 plants are planted per mu. Top dressing: Top dressing 4-5 times, mainly rotting organic fertilizer.

It's a bit late to plant taro in the summer.

1. The planting time of taro is suitable for cultivation in spring under normal conditions, generally more around January to March (beginning of spring), and harvested in late summer or autumn (August to October). Second, the taro planting party shouting luck method 1, after the land preparation ditch is ready, according to the leakage of 80-100 cm row spacing ditch, ditch width 50 cm, ditch depth 35 cm, and then fertilizer in the ditch. 2. Fertilizing taro requires a large amount of fertilizer and a long growth period, first of all, it is necessary to apply foot fertilizer, apply 2000 kg of high-quality organic fertilizer per mu, and 60 kg of 48% potassium sulfate compound fertilizer (16-16-16), and apply it according to the row spacing.

Top dressing should be applied in stages, 2-3 times in the seedling stage, germination stage and bulb growth stage, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be the main fertilizer. 3. Sowing sowing time in the ground after Qingming (that is, in early April), the plant spacing is about 50 cm, the seeds are 3-5 cm from the ground, and the soil is 5 cm thick. Mulching cultivation can also be carried out.

4. Watering taro should avoid dry soil, yellow leaves and dead leaves in case of drought, but the soil is too wet and water is not conducive to root growth. At the seedling stage, the soil bottom should be sufficiently moist, and watering should not be avoided. The soil at the seedling stage is dry and wet, and attention should be paid to drainage in case of rain.

5. Cultivating soil seedlings combined with top dressing, cultivating and destroying grass to warm the land, and at the end of the seedlings, cultivating and making the cultivation ditch become flat. After that, the soil was cultivated once in 20 days, with a thickness of 7 cm, a total of two times. The purpose of soil cultivation is to inhibit the germination and growth of the terminal buds of taro and taro, reduce nutrient consumption, make taro fully expand and produce a large number of adventitious roots, and increase drought resistance.

The agricultural proverb says: "If you don't cultivate taro, you don't plant it." Combined with soil cultivation, according to the leaf area distribution density and season, remove the excess side buds as soon as possible, so as not to consume nutrients and limit the growth of taro.

6. Pay attention not to hurt the taro during harvesting, and do not pick the taro. Then dry for 1-2 days, cellar in a high dry and warm place, and cover the top with insulated grain bran, wheat bran, etc. Finally, the soil was sealed 35 cm back to infiltrate the state.

The temperature is stable at 10-15, not frozen, and not higher than 25, otherwise it will cause rot.

It takes about 7 months for taro to be planted in the land and then ready to ripen and harvest. However, this time is not set in stone, and it can fluctuate depending on the region and planting situation. Taro can be used with a variety of ingredients to make nutritious and delicious foods, such as coconut milk taro chicken pot, taro cakes and so on.

There are also taboos on taro, such as taro cannot be eaten raw, and taro should be soaked in water immediately after peeling.

It is a white taro that grows and the plant is about 1m tall. The leaves are green, the petioles are yellowish-green, and there is a slight purple halo near the leaves. The mother taro is spherical, slightly curved, 15 20 knots per plant, harvested from August to September.

1. Taro is generally suitable for sowing in spring, and if the temperature in the ground is still low, it can be postponed to the Qingming Festival.

2. Taro is suitable for planting in wetter land with better drainage system. Before sowing, the land should be ploughed, the basal fertilizer should be applied sufficiently, and each mu should be mixed with ash miscellaneous fertilizer and ternary compound fertilizer. Ash fertilizer is not fully decomposed and cannot be used.

About 26 degrees Celsius is the most suitable temperature for taro growth, and the growth and development of taro will be hindered if the temperature is lower than 12 or higher than 26.

3. Start sowing around the beginning of spring, and the dosage per mu is about 200 catties. It is necessary to choose small taro that has no value, no cracks, no pests and diseases for sowing. When sowing, the field furrow should be done, and the row spacing between the ditches should be set left and right, and the interval between each plant should be left and right, and it should be covered after sowing.

4. After the emergence of seedlings, it is necessary to fertilize about twice with farmhouse fertilizer, and in summer to see the growth trend of taro, apply compound fertilizer appropriately, which can promote the growth of taro roots. In order to properly loosen the soil and weed, remove the side vines and heart leaves, and ensure the permeability between the taro, it is also necessary to pay attention to the pests and diseases that are prone to occur in daily life, such as aphids and grubs. In case of heavy rain, it is also necessary to drain water in time to prevent waterlogging.

5. The general harvest period of taro is in autumn and winter, and the taro can be pulled out directly after maturity, and the large and well-developed taro can be stored.

First, taro planting methods

1. Taro originates from high-temperature and multi-wetland areas, and has formed cultivation types such as taro, water-and-drought taro, and dry taro in the long-term cultivation process. 13 15 The bulbs of taro began to germinate, and the growth temperature at the seedling stage was 20 25 and 20 30 at the germination stage. The large temperature difference between day and night is conducive to the formation of bulbs, and the most suitable period for bulb formation is 28 30 during the day and 18 20 at night.

2. The soil needs to be moist during the growth period of dry taro, especially in the vigorous growth period of leaves and the formation of bulbs, and the water demand is large. At the same time, it should be noted that the bulb is sprayed in the early stage of ripening, and the taro growth period requires a certain water layer, and the water layer at the seedling stage is 3 5 cm. The peak growth period of the leaves is better with a water depth of 5 7 cm, and watering and irrigation should be controlled 6 7 days before harvest to prevent the bulb from containing too much water and not being resistant to storage.

3. Taro is more resistant to weak light, and the requirements for light intensity are not very strict. Grows well under scattered light, and bulb formation and enlargement require short day conditions.

4. Taro is suitable for growing in water, and it is necessary to choose paddy fields, low-lying land or ditch cultivation. Although taro can be grown in dry land, it is advisable to choose a humid area for planting. Taro is a fertilizer-loving crop, so it should be selected to be rich in organic matter, deep soil layer loam or clay loam, soil organic matter, available nitrogen, available phosphorus, available potassium 62ppm, pH value is the most suitable.

2. Planting time

The normal situation of taro is suitable for cultivation in spring, generally around January to March (beginning of spring), and harvest in late summer or autumn (August to October).

3. Harvest time

The taro leaves turn yellow and the roots wilt are signs of ripening of taro, which can be harvested at this time. The remaining seed buds should be harvested after they are fully mature, and the aboveground parts should be cut off at 7-10 cm at the base of the petiole 6-7 days before harvesting. Wounds are harvested after drying and healing.

Harvest should be done on a sunny day, the whole plant should be dug up, the surface moisture should be dried, the residual leaves and fibrous roots should be removed, and then stored. Or taro seeds in arid fields can be left in the field for wintering, and then harvested and dug for seed the following year.