Pure novice GUNPLA plating bleed line problem

The LZ map is a PG red heresy.

MG is not this armed configuration anymore.

1. Hook line: It's very simple, after hooking with a pen, dip a cotton swab in some zippo oil, wipe the overflowing ink, it's OK, note, it is not recommended to hook the line after coloring, it may wipe off the paint.

The black part is divided into 2 kinds, one direct black + varnish, and one silver + transparent black (Tiangong.

There are spray cans, but it's not necessary).

In addition to the soil and special color matching, you can actually buy Sanhe domestic, but the particles are a little bigger, and you can take it for nothing.

Spoiling the domestic MG red heresy is the most cost-effective.

ps: Why do you need to apply varnish protective paint after the polishing --- is finished, but the surface shrinks after the varnish dries, which will cause the paint surface in some areas to be uneven, so after spraying varnish in small quantities and many times, it is necessary to make part of the uneven place.

The above suggestions can be referred to by Xiaobai, don't pick on the old bird, and directly let Xiaobai polish every time he sprays varnish, which is unrealistic, just talking, there are a few people who can really do it, and can patiently do it a small number of times, and it can already have a 70% mirror effect......

Real electroplating is not sprayed by painting, it requires professional equipment, and we can't do it.

The player sprays only imitation plating.,For details, please go to the 78 forum to take a look.,There are questions about the introduction of mirror effects.。

Biscuit is when the parts are broken and corroded by paint. Before painting, polish it once, then add water to fill the soil, and then see if there is any uneven place to continue grinding, and then spray water to fill the soil, and then spray paint, so that the paint surface is smoother and easy to adhere.

Generally, the pen line is thicker, unless you wipe it after the hook. There is a German red ring needle pen, this is the thinnest pen I have seen so far, but one costs about 100 yuan. Seepage line is wiped with that kind of very fine physiognomy pen + seepage liquid + solvent.

It is recommended that you use electroplating powder more conveniently, and the seepage line needs to be engraved and then used a thinner paint (generally enamel paint) to get it a little bit.

I don't know if the electroplating you are talking about is a metallic color, but it is best not to have a turtle pump, the output is not enough, and the paint with large particles directly blocks the pen. It is easy to seep the line, the efficiency is faster than the groove line, and the effect is better. Specifically, I went to buy a bottle of Tamiya 87131 seepage liquid to pay for the pen, and then bought Tamiya dilution to wipe the overflow, and when I wiped it, wait for the paint to dry and then wipe it, don't make too much.

Don't spray the seepage thread after the matte, it will be tragic.

First of all, the bleed line is cleaner than the hook line, and the required tool is cheaper than the hook tool.

Also, if the electroplating paint is blended by itself, it is very toxic, so it is better to buy Xiancheng.

I've seen a Japanese buddy use car paint to mix and color matching, absolutely awesome.

The electroplating spray gun must be a spray gun, and it must be fast and accurate. It's smeared and it's a hassle to deal with.

Only direct plating is a real metal.

I'll say a more practical thing, novices first practice the prime group and then say, you have the patience to set a model, and then slowly exercise other advanced ones, like spraying is not as easy as imagined, not to say that direct spraying is OK, there is a lot of preparation work in the early stage, and you need to be patient, it is more difficult to do electroplating, in short, start with the simplest first, don't think about one step to the sky, otherwise it's just a waste of money to buy a model to spoil.

Personally, I think it's more troublesome than hooking, although it's too thick after hooking and you need to use a toothpick to scrape fine, but no matter what, it's good to do it and feel like it's nothing, I personally prefer to hook the line, and if it's thick, just scrape it with a toothpick.

Generally, white nails are gray, blue can be dark colors such as black, red is brown, and hair loss is basically white, that is, gray is more.

Bleeding threads are actually the same as hooking threads, but they have a better feeling of fullness than hooking threads.

Seepage is safe and fast. It is economical and easy to master. In fact, there is basically no technical content in the seepage line, which is definitely more convenient than using Gouda Mark!

Bleeding steps:First mix the paint (Linlang paint, zeppo oil) This is the most critical basic ratio of 1:2.

After the enamel paint is dry, rub it with zeppo oil in the vertical direction of the line, not too hard, and rub it slowly.

After wiping, use a paper towel felt with a little zipoo to slowly absorb the excess paint, pay attention to whether it is sucking and not wiping.

1. Preparation tools: zippo oil, black paint, thinner, face pen, palette , gundam marker, cotton swab, straw, and one gunpla part.

2. Draw half with a marker pen as a reference.

3. Then mix the paint with enamel paint and dissolving agent, and their ratio is one to three.

4. Dip the paint with a face pen, and then point it into the groove, and the paint will automatically flow along the groove line. If the groove is shallow, it can be deepened with a scriber or pen knife before seeping.

5. After the paint is slightly dry, use a cotton swab dipped in zippo oil to wipe the spilled part.

6. After wiping, the extra zippo oil is sucked off with a paper towel, pay attention to whether it is sucked or not wiped.

7. At this point, the seepage line is completed, and it can be seen through comparison that the seepage line is thin and beautiful.

Many friends mistakenly think that drawing thread is a beginner's method of threading, but in fact, this is wrong, bleeding thread is as important as hooking. Stain washing is what you call seepage, in fact, to make the model better to achieve the contour effect, not only bleeding skills, but also dry cleaning skills:

1) There are actually two kinds of bleeding lines, one method is to highlight the highlight technique, which requires the use of light-colored paint to outline the line (the bleeding line is not feasible to use on the highlight); The other is the technique of highlighting the shadows, which requires bleeding with dark paint (both bleeding and outlining);

Seepage (stain washing) method, dilute with pigments different from the brush painting steps (as much dilution as possible, it is recommended to use oil-based paint stain washing, oily ductility is very good, zippo oil + oil paint is also good), dip a little with a brush, point in the light and dark, and take a small amount of multiple methods (it takes some time); (Tools: fine brush, oil-based paint, zippo oil + oil paint).

2) Dry cleaning is the opposite technique of stain washing, stain washing is mainly for the main body of light color, dry cleaning is for dark color; Method, boil the hair of the large brush in water, spread it out, dry it, and make it a dry sweeper, you can also buy one directly if you have the conditions, but the effect is the same, dip the pen in light-colored paint (preferably white) with a dry sweep pen and rub the pen repeatedly on the waste paper until the color is invisible, and then repeatedly sweep on the protrusion of the model, a small number of times, until it is completed, stain washing and dry cleaning can be used together (tools: dry sweep pen, light paint.

The seepage line is to first apply a layer of seepage pen in the pit, and then use a paper towel or cotton swab to wipe off the outside of the pit. And the seepage pen is thicker than the hook pen. But this method is too annoying, the effect is better than hooking, and those who are patient can try it.

Seepage refers to the seepage liquid or the concentration of enamel paint with a face pen on the engraving part, so that the liquid due to the principle of capillary, itself infiltrated into the groove of the engraving line, the advantage of this is that the finished line is very thin, the disadvantage is that some of the shallow and right-angled parts of the carved line to add a deep line.

The advantage is that regardless of whether the line is clear or not, as long as your technique is high enough, you can draw the line, the disadvantage is that the line drawn has no change in thickness, and it is thicker, the so-called big dragon line is drawn by the line pen.

When using seepage liquid, the thread should be infiltrated first, and then sprayed to extinguish after drying.

Drawing a line is to draw it with a pen, and seepage is to flow into the gap by liquid. If you are matting, you should never spray it first.

The bleeding line is semi-automatic, and the hooking line is fully manual. Seep first and then disappear.

Sketching is a manual drawing.

Bleeding is to put the pen on the indentated line marks, and the ink will automatically flow down the line, and then wipe off the excess.

The principle of bleed line is the siphoning phenomenon of liquid, which allows the paint to flow in the corners or engraved lines of the model, leaving the color. The advantage of seepage line is that the line is relatively straight and thin, which can solve the phenomenon of thick line and crooked drawing, and of course, it can greatly increase the efficiency of making the model at some times, making the model more vivid.

Thick groove: Open the cap, you will find that the nib inside is very thin, the nib is aligned with the groove, and gently draw along the groove. If there is a part drawn, erase it with an eraser.

Fine grooves: Draw the pen perpendicular to the groove, remembering not to use force. After the drawing, there must be a part of the drawing, use an eraser (note, the eraser and the surface of the model must be 90°, otherwise the ink line in the groove will be erased) and then talk about the bleeding line.

Seepage is different from hooking, and after doing it, LZ will know what is different. It's very difficult, so don't use LZ if you're new to hooking.

1. Drawing the line is to use a water-based pen similar to the usual exam, that is, a needle pen to draw the above line. 2. Bleeding line is to use a pen similar to a brush (face brush) dipped in special ink on the bleeding line (let the ink penetrate into the texture of the Gundam itself).

The outline line is drawn with a very fine marker, and it is sold in model stores.

Bleeding Tutorial).

The way is completely different, okay...

For the seepage, it is necessary to wipe it off later, and it does not have to be wiped clean when wiping, if it is a little dirty, there will be obvious demarcation, and the color is dark and contrasting. However, the seepage line is more troublesome, with enamel paint, zippo seepage line, for plastic has a corrosive effect, the safer way is to first apply a layer of varnish and then seepage line, and finally on the matte.

For animation, due to the need for the picture, it is 2D, so its lines are clear, and the model is 3D, so its depth effect is given by external light, not deliberately, so the coloring is not to be done like a plane, but to have a texture, this thing has to look at the material, and it is okay to use plastic to make other materials, and the contemptible people will not say it, for the color, it is not a single color contrast, so the color can not be the same as the animation, otherwise you will feel that you are not good-looking, there is no three-dimensional sense, of course, If it's a simple model that requires monochrome, it's different.

But personally, I think it's still necessary to seepage.,The seepage line is more three-dimensional.,If you don't seepage.,Maybe it's closer to animation (2D.)。 In addition, the corners of the model can be deepened a little, just a little, so that there will be a more obvious outline.

Also, you can go to the Gundam Bar, there are a lot of people who have the same hobby, hehe, I hope what I said will help you.

Seepage line can increase the three-dimensional effect, seepage line is divided into 2 kinds, it is relatively simple to use a pen directly, and there is a 1st floor said to use 2 different pigments to seepage the line and finally wipe off the excess place.

Bleed is closer to an animated effect.

Bleed is closer to an animated effect.

No matter how good the color separation is necessary for the bleeding line, it is the same.

Which body are you infiltrating? Some models have shallow lines, so you need to add deep lines.

Wipe of seepage thread:

1. After the cotton swab is dipped in the solvent, use a paper towel to absorb the cotton swab as much as possible, so that the solvent will not overflow due to the squeezing during wiping, and dissolve the seepage liquid in the wire groove.

2. If the engraving line is relatively shallow, it is best to use a push knife to deepen the trunking, if it is a permeable line of two perpendicular parts, you can use a threading needle to draw a few times on the part to be engraved, so that the seepage liquid penetrates deeply, and it is not easy to wipe the seepage liquid in the trunking when wiping.

3. Wipe should be carried out after the seepage fluid is dry, and the seepage liquid that is not dry is easy to be sucked out by the cotton swab.

4. Try to wipe as gently as possible, and don't squeeze out the solvent on the cotton swab.

5. Try to be careful when wiping, and try not to touch or touch the part of the trunking as much as possible.