Please teach the SLR high finger, the SLR master is in Thank you

The Canon 650D delivers better results because its image processor DigiC 5+ is an upgrade over the DigiC 4 550D and 600D image processors, and the DigiC 5 has achieved innovative development in terms of image processors, which are decisive factors for high image quality**. In particular, there are significant improvements in noise reduction and white balance accuracy. DigiC 5 uses a new noise reduction algorithm, which results in a higher level of image quality and overall performance.

In addition, thanks to the new multi-zone white balance function, it is possible to shoot with the right color tone** even when the main subject and background are illuminated by a mixture of different light sources (e.g., flash + other light sources).

There are differences in many places such as image processing system, continuous shooting, focusing system, metering, ISO sensitivity, HDR, **format, etc., which determines that the ** effect will also be different, but the difference will not be too big. If possible, 650d is still recommended.

Truth be told, the Canon 550D is the best choice for you!!

Many people's words are extremely irresponsible, and the reason is very simple, he has never used these three cameras.

Hopefully, you can grab a memory card, go to the physical store and take pictures of each camera, and then go home to the computer and take a closer look at it and choose what you think is the best quality. All brick-and-mortar stores are welcome to take pictures.

Not to mention anything else, you use the same lens, compare 550d and 60d**, take a closer look, is there a difference? The Canon camera is the fastest to update, but the improvement in image quality is a bit unsatisfactory.

550d 600d with the same lens, exactly the same camera settings, the same picture, the same time after fixing the camera is the same 650d cmos is different, although the pixels are the same, but there are differences.

The 650D is slightly better than the other two, but the picture quality is exactly the same, and the most affordable one is still the 550D. **Cheapest.

Except for the pixel and high sensitivity, everything else is the same.

Multi-zone metering:

Also known as average metering or evaluative metering on some cameras. When shooting, there may be some areas that are brighter and some areas that are darker. For us, the highlights and shadows are equally important in the whole **, that is, we don't want the highlights to be overexposed, and we don't want the shadows to lose details.

So I'm going to use the average metering mode. Average the light and the light to an average. Generally, it is more commonly used to shoot landscapes.

Spot metering: The overall ambient light is very dark, but the target you want to shoot is very bright (for example, if you take a picture of a lamp at night, you want to shoot the pattern on the lampshade clearly), if you use average metering (that is, the overall ambient metering), then the overall ** is accurate, but your target will be overexposed because it is too bright. At this time, it is necessary to metering the subject point to ensure the accuracy of the subject. However, in this case, the object being photographed is **accurate, and **other parts of the image may be insufficient.

In the same way, if the ambient light is bright and the target to be shot is dark, spot metering should also be used.

**Focused metering:

Also known as ** key evaluation metering. When we shoot portraits, we generally want to be accurate in both the portrait and the background. However, when the contrast between portrait and background lighting is too large for the camera to take into account, we will also make trade-offs, and of course portrait is more important than background.

In this case, the key metering data is used, and the 20%-30% area metering data of the camera viewfinder** part accounts for 70% of the weighted weight, and the metering value of other areas only accounts for about 30% of the weighted weight of the whole image.

That is to say, if you want to show something that has a wide range in the picture, such as a landscape, use multi-area metering, and if it is in the center, then use ** focus.

If it is a very small thing, then use spot metering, for example, shooting a white flower in the grass, or shooting a portrait when backlighting, what you want to show (flowers or faces) is more important than the background, then it is necessary to meet the needs of the point, and the point measurement and the focus are to deal with scenes with large contrasts.

Of course, the actual use often needs to be used in combination with the first compensation.

Spot metering: Take this point as the benchmark to make sure that this point can be correct**, and finally**this point can be displayed normally. It is usually used in more complex light and shadow conditions, so as to ensure that the object you want to shoot is correct to the greatest extent, such as shooting large backlit**, and it is also recommended to use this kind of portrait or still life.

**Accent metering: Similar to spot metering, except that the metering area is slightly larger.

Multi-zone metering: Use the whole frame as a benchmark to ensure the level of the whole frame, but it may cause the object you want to shoot ** is incorrect, because the camera cannot determine which areas of the whole frame you want to focus on, this mode is more suitable for novices or environments with simple lighting conditions, such as taking landscape photos.

Multi-zone metering, also known as weighted average metering: the image is divided into several areas, each area is metered separately, and the camera processor summarizes the values measured in each area and calculates a final value through weights.

**Key metering: It is the main metering area with a circle of about 10mm in diameter of the picture, with 70-80% of the metering value in the circle and 30-20% of the metering value outside the circle.

Spot metering: It is a circle with a diameter of about 2mm in the picture** (or focus point) as the metering area, and the metering value in the circle accounts for 100%, and the metering outside the circle cannot be metered.

When shooting, choose the right way according to the scene environment and the purpose of shooting:

Landscape photography mostly uses multi-zone metering light, and portraits can also be taken when the contrast between light and dark is not too large and the light is relatively uniform. The technical level is not very demanding.

Portraits mostly use ** key metering or spot metering, which is suitable for environments with large contrast between light and dark.

Spot metering is mostly used for flower sketches or close-ups of characters, and the metering accuracy is very high.

The advantages and disadvantages of the SLR mainly depend on the area size of the image sensor CCD (Canon's CMOS), the most popular SLR on the market is the AP-S format and the full frame, the area of the full frame is about 36mm*24mm, and the AP-S format is only half the size, so the full-frame will be much better, of course, the price is much more expensive. The worst SLR cameras are better than card cameras (your so-called digital cameras, and now DSLR cameras are also digital), that is, because of the area size of the CCD, of course, it is also inseparable from the lens.

If you are a novice, don't buy second-hand, unless you have a professional friend to buy with you, otherwise you don't know if you are cheated.

The difference between the advantages and disadvantages of the lens lies in the price, and the expensive one will of course be better. There is a difference between professional lenses and quasi-professional lenses, Canon professional lenses are red circles, Nikon are gold circles, of course, this is more expensive, and it is not cost-effective if you buy it.

Both Canon and Nikon have heads of 18-55, which we often call dog heads, and it is better not to buy them, although cheap, with poor imaging quality and poor quality in themselves. The 18-105 is more suitable for you to get started, although it is not a good idea, but the focal length is relatively large and more practical.

You can't read second-hand, and you don't know if you buy a bad one.

To get started, you can buy a cheap Nikon D3100 Sony A290 Pentax KX to buy the cheapest set with a lens.

Read more about the forum and read more about the manual when you buy the machine!

The good imaging of DSLR cameras is mainly reflected in the large area of the image sensor, which can capture more details. Under extreme conditions (e.g. backlit), the image quality of a camera depends not only on the sensor area, but also on the processing power of the sensor, etc.

However, generally speaking, under the same technical conditions, the SLR camera must be a complete victory.

Of course, you can buy second-hand ones, remember to check whether the various functions are normal, whether there is a problem with the battery, and how much the shutter is. Generally, the shutter of an entry-level SLR can last about 50,000 times, which is still relatively durable. As for some of your special needs (such as going swimming with a DSLR), ......After all, it's an electronic product, and it can't be wet.

Some SLRs have the ability to resist splashing water, and they can still cope with light rain.

The quality of the lens is naturally the quality of the imaging. In fact, the imaging quality of the SLR lens is the main thing. Sharpness, color, and resolution all belong to the lens tube.

18-55 and 18-105 are available from various manufacturers, and 18-55 is the most basic pullover, which is relatively poor in all aspects, and it is almost the same for practice. 18-105 is slightly better, but it also falls into the worse category.

The worst DSLR camera imaging is better than the best digital camera The worst SLR camera imaging is not very different from the mid-range SLR camera ** How much depends on the performance and workmanship of the camera I don't know if you understand this Haha 18-55 is a kit lens from 18mm zoom to 55mm The imaging is not very satisfactory 18-105 is a lens from 18mm to 105mm The imaging is slightly better than the 18-55 The quality of the lens depends on the number of lenses The material of the coating The overall workmanship Overall, a good lens is usually well-made, with fast focus, and sharp imaging, and a more detailed distinction may not be clear in a short period of time.

How to say it, I used to use the Canon 400d to get started, and now I change to the 60d It's quite tangled, it's still a small-format machine, and it's better to get started in the mid-range. It's really not good that Canon's 600D or Nikon's D5100, Canon 1100D and Nikon D3100 still don't think about it, **The difference in the low-resolution LCD screen and functions is included in the cheapness.

Said that SLR imaging is good, mainly because his focus is "smarter" than the card machine, and the pixel density is different due to the difference in the size of the image sensor, generally speaking, the pixel density is high, and the light sensitivity of a single pixel is slightly weaker, so it is easy to appear noise. This is also the reason why the imaging of the card machine is not as good as that of the SLR.

Second-hand is generally not recommended, the number of shutters on low-end machines cannot be checked, and the number of dead pixels of the image sensor cannot be guaranteed. If you have bought a second-hand machine, cover the lens cover ** for ten seconds and then take the black ** to find it, take two photos and compare the same position and the bright spot is the bad spot. Dead pixels can be very confusing when photographing planets

Canon's 18-55 is better than 18-135 Slightly better imaging, and similarly, Nikon's 18-55 is slightly better than 18-105, it's all set heads, it's not much worse, and the comparison doesn't make much sense, the main thing is that it's cheap and lightweight. If I plan to upgrade the lens in the future, I recommend the 18-55, which I used before, and I use it occasionally, because it is lightweight.

The strengths and weaknesses of lenses are sharpness, bokeh (bokeh), and color. Each lens has its own optimal aperture. Figuring out the "character" of the lens is also one of the great pleasures of the SLR.

There are also lenses with large zoom ratios, with a maximum focal length and a minimum focal length of <3, which is a relatively good zoom lens.

I hope it can help you. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask

The only disadvantage of a DSLR is that it is not portable.

There is not much difference between the image quality of the 18-55 and the 18-105, the essential difference is that the 18-105 focal length is longer.

When the SLR camera is good, it is because it is good that he has to use the photosensitive equipment and lens, so why is the SLR better than the card, and the full set is better than the half-frame.

Novices, I suggest you buy new ones, old ones, will you see if there is ash and mold, have you dismantled the machine?

The quality of the lens is not reflected in the focal length, but mainly in the composition and workmanship quality of the lens. There is no big difference between 18-55 and 18-105, the difference is in the focal length.

18-55 and 18-105 are mostly focal length issues. The latter has a longer focal length and can pull out a deeper depth of field. SLR I think it mainly depends on the number of focus points, ISO sensitivity range, if you understand the image sensor, it is naturally better, as well as whether the operation is simple, and whether it is light to carry out.

Second-hand is not recommended, because the old camera lens and camera sensor have different degrees of damage, or the new machine is better. Nikon D5100 +18-105

1. The better one is only 17-55, the gold circle, the constant large aperture. But this is a DX header, and it won't work if you want to upgrade the full width in the future. There is also a 16-85, with a wide angle expanded to the equivalent of 24mm, which is also DX.

2. Telephoto head: It seems that you are not ready to use the VR70-200 with too much weight. Then only VR70-300 is available. The quality of the lens is also quite good.

3. The gimbal is fixed to the upper end of the tripod, and the angle of the camera can usually be adjusted in three dimensions, such as horizontal direction, tilt angle, left and right angle, etc. Premium tripods and premium heads are purchased separately and can be combined in any way. The low-end ones are usually suits.

The gimbal is divided into spherical and three-dimensional.

4. The fixed focal length lens is relatively easy to design, but the zoom lens is complex in design, and it is difficult to achieve the same excellent imaging sharpness in the whole focal length. But the more mature 70-200mm advanced zoom lens is almost comparable to prime focus.

5. The low-end cottage UV mirror is easy to cause light spots and ghosts in the backlit state, and the multi-layer coating is better.