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During the first hormone treatment to preserve the fruit, a new tip outside the second wire is wrapped with a core of the same length. The new tip that was not reached was later, and then the topping was done after the second line. The advantage of this is that the new shoots stop growing and become nutrient-producing branches, so that there is less flower and fruit drop, and the fruit expands early.
The disadvantage is that when the tree is strong, a large number of secondary branches will appear after the pitting. Therefore, more attention should be paid to summer management, such as the coring of secondary branches. If the heart is picked early, the fruit expands quickly, and if the fruit is not repaired as soon as possible, it will take a lot of time to repair the fruit in the later stage.
Before and after the second hormone swelling**, a forced coring is carried out, and the coring position is about 10cm above the second wire. The advantage of this method is that root growth is also inhibited due to the strong pitting, and fruit growth begins to accelerate after pitting. At the same time, the method produces few secondary branches, and the subsequent secondary branch coring management is easy.
The disadvantage is that the growth of new shoots on the shed surface is large, the shelf surface is easy to close, and the growth of new shoots also consumes a lot of nutrients, resulting in the aggravation of flower and fruit fall.
In order to produce new shoots, they are usually picked 3-5 days before flowering and at the latest at the beginning of flowering. For varieties with severe flower and fruit drop, such as Kyoho and Purple Rose, the heart can be picked 8-10 days before flowering. After the first nucleation, the leaves do not reach the required number of new shoots.
After the secondary apex grows, the leaves are left to be left and the secondary apex is pitted for the second time. For vegetative branches and cultivated branches, leave 12-15 pieces at a time to remove the pits. After mid-July, most areas have abundant rainfall, high air humidity and high temperatures, and the secondary branches continue to grow at this time.
For these nascent auxiliary tips, all but the top 2-3 leaves and the 3-5 leaves for coring are removed. For the parts of the missing branches and empty surface caused by frostbite or disease or mechanical damage, whether it is the old branches or the new shoots born from the old roots, they should be reasonably retained. It's especially important for these sprouts to pick them in the heart.
If left to grow, it tends to overgrow, and the full buds move upward, and they will be cut off the next year, leaving no yield.
For this type of new shoot, when it grows to about 10 leaves, leave 7-8 leaves to be pitted, force 3-5 secondary branches, and when it grows to 10-12 leaves, remove the pitting to cultivate the next year's fruiting mother branch. Due to the rapid growth of fruit branches and new shoots before flowering, excessive nutrient consumption affects the further decomposition of flowers and the growth of flower buds, thereby reducing the fruit setting rate. The purpose of topping is to adjust the nutrient distribution of the tree and provide nutrients to the inflorescence in a short time, so as to achieve the purpose of increasing the fruit setting rate.
When grapes bloom, the flower buds change from green to dark green or greenish-brown, each flower bud grows plump and thin, with small flower stalks erect. The flower buds are massively separated on the inflorescence and do not clog each other. This is the perfect time to pick the heart of the fruit.
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It should be topped when it has grown to more than 80 centimeters, and it should be done in the early morning or in the evening, so as to reduce the damage to the vines and allow the grapes to produce more fruit.
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Topping time. For fruiting shoots, topping is generally carried out 3-5 days before flowering, and at the latest in the early flowering stage. For varieties with serious flower and fruit drop, such as Jufeng, Purple Rose and other varieties, topping can be done 8-10 days before flowering.
If the leaves do not reach the required number of new shoots after the first topping, after the secondary tips grow, leave enough leaves and carry out the second topping on the secondary tips. For vegetative branches and cultured branches, 12-15 leaves can be left for topping at one time.
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Topping is divided into: fruiting vine topping, nutrient vine topping, and extended vine topping on side vines. Result: Vine topping:
The fruiting vine can be plucked in two parts, the first time about 10 days before flowering, leave 2 leaves in front of the inflorescence to pluck the young leaves, remove the young leaves that are smaller than the normal leaf 1 3 large, and the second time in the early flowering stage of the grape, the front end of the secondary shoots is controlled, leaving scattered young leaves or erasing. Nutrient vine topping, where the grape growth period is less than 150 days, 1-2 tender tip leaflets can be removed when about 10 leaves; Grape growth period of 150-180 places, 15 leaves or so when the removal of 1-2 tender tip leaflets, more than 180 days of extended vine growth is relatively weak, choose the lower part of the stronger main tip to change the head, if it must be the leader to leave 10--12 leaves topping Extended vine growth is not weak and not very strong, according to the length of the expected winter pruning and the length of the growth period of the year, the topping time can be appropriately postponed, the growth period is shorter in the northern region, before the beginning and middle of August; In the southern region, where the growing season is longer, you can choose to pick the topping in early or mid-September. If the vine grows vigorously, it can be topped in advance.
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Before and after flowering, the new shoots and their secondary shoots need to be topped to promote fruit set. The time and extent of topping should be determined according to the variety, age, tree vigor and the infection of the flower spike.
Generally, new gardens and gardens with weak trees should be delayed. 5-7 days after the flowering in the red earth new garden is found, leave 5-6 leaves above the flower spike for topping, and leave 2 leaves for post-treatment depending on the fruit drop. In the old garden of Red Earth, 2-3 days after flowering, leave 5-6 leaves above the flower spike for topping, and leave 2 leaves for secondary tips to be treated after treatment.
After physiological fruit drop in the new ruby seedless garden, 6-8 leaves above the flower spike were left for topping, and 1 leaf was left for post-treatment, and 6-8 leaves were left above the flower spike at the end of flowering in the old garden, and 1 leaf was left for post-treatment. After flowering is found in the Victorian, excellent seedless, and pink Yadu honey orchards, leave 5-6 leaves above the flower spike for topping, and leave 1 leaf for the secondary tip to be treated in time, and the secondary tip is cleaned every 2-3 days during the flowering and fruit setting period to ensure the fruit setting. Moritani seedless and beauty refers to leaving 5-6 leaves above the flower spike in the early flowering stage, leaving 2 leaves in the full flowering stage and physiological fruit drop stage for post-treatment, leaving 5-6 leaves above the flower spike in the early flowering stage of Takazuma, and leaving 1 leaf for post-treatment in the physiological fruit drop stage.
After all varieties set fruit, leave a side tip at the top to extend to 5-7 leaves for topping. The upper secondary tips are still treated according to the treatment method of the secondary tips on the new shoots of various varieties. Fruit farmers should pay attention to the time and intensity of processing the secondary shoots, and when the fruit set is heavier, the secondary tips should be treated in time, and the treatment time of the secondary tips can be appropriately delayed when the fruit set is lighter, which can promote the tightness and appropriate fruit set.
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What do grape shoots do? How to deal with topping? Xiaoyang gave an example on the spot.
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Answer]: Moderate topping of grapes is an important cultivation measure to increase grape yield. The specific method is as follows:
8-10 leaves were left for topping on fruiting branches, and 10-14 leaves were left for topping on vegetative branches and preparatory branches. As a result, all the secondary tips below the inflorescence of the fruiting branches are thinned, and 1-2 secondary tips above the inflorescence are retained, and 3-4 leaves are left to be topped repeatedly. The para shoots on the vegetative branches are generally left with 1-2 leaves and repeated topping.
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To confirm the inflorescence, then to properly top, to leave the main bud, to cut off the secondary buds, to remove the weak branches.
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I think it's better to prune the branches in the winter, but you can also prune them in the summer, and in the summer, the main thing is to promote the development of winter buds.
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Be sure to grasp the time of pruning, prune after germination, prune the skin accompany, prune off the excess weak branches or problematic branches and leaves, and then pluck the tops in time.
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Grapevines are all over the country can be planted, crops climb the vines of plants, the growth and development is extremely fast, and the harvest period is long, the conclusion rate is large, the management method is very easy These characteristics, loved by everyone, like our rural courtyard, are very fond of planting grapevines, with very good shade and cool effect, and the red grapes are numerous, but also have a full house of children and grandchildren so they are favored by everyone, the total yield of strawberries is happy, as the current season, The vines will coincide with the fruiting or blooming period.
Watering management method: as this season, is the drought down a good day without a drop of rain, waterlogging is also amazing, will even be cloudy and rainy for many days, this ever-changing temperature, is the most common thing in this season, for the red grape of hanging fruit Peng large period, is very afraid of water seepage, excessive waterlogging, coupled with continuous rainy days, red grape does not have sufficient sunlight, it is very easy to occur rotten fruit situation, will continue to stimulate some other problems.
In the swelling period of strawberries, it is necessary to be constantly prepared for waterlogging, especially in the smooth drainage facilities, so as to ensure the growth and development of red grapes during the swelling period. During the red grape fruit setting period, in order to improve the fruit setting rate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be sprayed moderately with a concentration value, this kind of drug is a common drug for food crops to improve the fruit setting rate, and it is a drug that growers are allowed to use in China's secret text, and it can also improve the quality of the fruit and promote the growth and development of the fruit after spraying.
Flower spike management method, according to the new shoot rise to keep the ear, the general study in France is: "strong two in one weak did not stay". If there is a flower spike in 1 new shoot, 1 2 should generally be eliminated.
If the flower spike is not pinched before the plant is rented, then the tip can be pinched and the tip of the spike can be pinched off 1 5 1 4. Remove diseased fruits, residual fruits and deformed fruits, and immediately bagging fruits, which are generally carried out in early June. In case of rainy weather, it will produce pests and diseases such as gray mold, black pox and downy mildew, which should be prevented as soon as possible.
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Pruning and topping: after fruit set, the vine should be treated as a topping pinch for the branches, so that it can reduce too much germination of side branches, and accumulate nutrients in the fruit, under normal circumstances, after fruit set, 6-8 true leaves should be topped, and the growth of side branches, 2-4 roots can be retained, when the side branches grow with 6-8 true leaves, the side branches should be given for topping, and the topping measures after fruit setting should be carried out 2-3 times, so as to avoid the grapes from growing, and all the nutrients will be converted to the fruit.
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It is necessary to supplement compound fertilizer in a timely manner, to supplement well-rotted farmhouse fertilizer in a timely manner, to supplement trace elements, do not burn fertilizer, and do not make the soil too barren.
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It needs to be pruned on time, and you must pay attention to the temperature, watering, and fertilization, so that the plants can grow better.
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After the grape harvest, the recovery of the tree vigor and the vigorous growth of new shoots can promote the flower bud differentiation of the grape plants in the following spring, which will lay a good foundation for the formation of large inflorescences of the grapes, and ultimately for the improvement of production yield and quality in the coming year. So, what management measures must be taken after the greenhouse grapes are harvested?
It is still necessary to prune the grapes after harvesting, such as topping, pruning, etc., to help prevent the branches from being too dense and affecting the flower bud differentiation. For weak branches to be pruned, diseased branches and overly dense branches need to be removed. In particular, the diseased branches must be cleaned to ensure that the fruit trees have enough strong flower buds next year, and the diseased branches need to be taken out of the orchard and burned.
Inhibiting the growth of branches and branches will consume a large amount of nutrients in the tree, so measures such as topping and erasing the secondary shoots should be taken to control its growth, so as to reduce the ineffective consumption of nutrients, and promote the main vine and the retained secondary shoots to be thick and strong, and the buds to be full and full. It can also be sprayed with a long-term solution to inhibit the growth of the force. At the same time, the branches should also be pruned reasonably, the thick branches should be left more, the thin branches should be left less, and the overly dense branches, thin branches, and diseased branches should be thinned out as soon as possible.
The addition of fertilizer and water should be supplemented with water and fertilizer for grapes as soon as possible, we try to spray water as much as possible, which can make the water evenly supplemented, top dressing, we generally take the rotting farmhouse fertilizer as the mainstay, supplemented by chemical fertilizer, and can apply nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer according to the site conditions, fertilization must be combined with watering, so as not to accumulate fertilizer in a large area, resulting in too high temperature, burning grapes, a small amount of many times is the best, and it is helpful for grape absorption.
Pest control: Grapes have black stems (tea yellow mites), leaves are white (red spiders), and fruits have black ash (scale insects), and now you can rest assured that you can apply pesticides without worrying about pesticide damage or pesticide residues. When there is a fruit, there will be many restrictions on the use of medicine.
After harvesting, the leaves age and are basically disease-free, but powdery mildew likes to be unexpected, and most of them start from the bottom and spread upwards, which is not a devastating disease, at least it will cause trouble for your disease prevention and control in the coming year. Foliar sprays of downy mildew and powdery mildew control agents, spray thoroughly and evenly sprayed. Immediately after removing the greenhouse film, spray the Bordeaux liquid, together with the columns, wires, bamboo poles or steel pipes, and the ground, focusing on the middle and lower parts, especially the ground.
Loosen the soil in time, prevent waterlogging and drought. Because of the picking management, the soil is easy to be compacted, immediately after picking the fruit, should be carried out immediately after a ploughing loosening soil, increase the permeability of the soil, deep ploughing loose soil should be carried out in September to October, at this time the cut off root system can be quickly healed, deep tillage can be combined with fertilization, when the rain is more to clear the ditch and drain in time, in case of autumn drought or winter drought should be timely irrigated to maintain suitable soil moisture.
After summarizing the greenhouse grape picking, we can not breathe a sigh of relief in production, we must seize the time to trim the grape plants, remove the greenhouse film, reasonable fertilizer and water, pest management and re-buckle the greenhouse film and other operations, all the work is to restore the tree potential, cultivate new fruiting mother branches, and then promote the formation of winter buds, lay a good foundation for the differentiation of flower buds in the coming year, and pave the way for the harvest and quality improvement of grapes in the coming year.
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