Electrician s master, please come in! Thanks, electrician god please help take a look?

I can ask you this question, and I brought two apprentices, both of whom are college students majoring in electrical appliances. I think the master's favorite apprentice is first of all to be diligent, if you are not diligent, then it is basically not very easy to learn.

First, it is necessary to love to use your brain, and if you encounter a problem, you must analyze the reasons rationally, instead of waiting for the master to solve any problem, and not use your brain. Of course, don't act rashly if you're really unsure, but you can't help but think about it. For example, the master's method of dealing with it is different from the method I have in mind, so I have to think about why?

What am I doing wrong? If you don't understand something, take the initiative to ask for advice. In this way, your business technology can be gradually improved.

Second, to be humble, if the teacup wants the teapot to fill itself with water, the teacup must be lower than the teapot to drip. Although we don't talk about the old concept of being a teacher for one day and a father for life, the necessary respect and modesty are the bottom line, and third, it is best to become a bosom friend with the master, both a master and an apprentice and a friend, so that it is the least embarrassing. In this way, the master can speak to the apprentice more casually, and if the apprentice and the master are together, there is no feeling of respect and inferiority, and you can better communicate with the master.

My apprentice and I are like this, when I go out after work, such as eating and drinking, we are all called brothers, hehe.

Humble, studious, self-motivated, diligent but not stupid.

<> from the **, this gas stove plug comes with a protective device, the white wireframe is the reset key (that is, the button you said), the pink wireframe is the test key, and the yellow wireframe is the indicator light. If the reset button cannot be pressed, it means that when you insert the gas stove plug, there is leakage or short circuit, and the protection device works to prevent the continued use of electricity, that is, the reset button cannot be pressed, and only when the reset button is pressed, can it be used normally.

The analysis is that there is a problem with the connection between the gas stove plug and the socket, you unplug the gas stove plug, check and clean the plug and socket panel, whether there is water, oil and dirt, etc., the lead wire, the zero line is short-circuited, and the grounding protection line will trigger automatic protection if there is leakage in the grounding protection.

First, unplug the ** upper plug.

Second, find the reset button of the main switch, press the reset button of the main switch, and then close the switch. (The reset button is shown in the figure below, and the button should be pressed before closing).

Third, you should be able to close the gate at this time, which means that there is a problem with the equipment carried by your **upper plug.

Hope it helps.

In this case, there must be a short circuit or leakage on the plug (wire) of the gas stove, and other sockets, including the gas stove socket, are no problem. Due to multiple short circuits tripping, the brake cannot be closed now, and it is best to ask an electrician to check the insulation condition of the line.

In this case, it should be that your home appliances or sockets have a short circuit or grounding.

The solution is to unplug all the electrical appliances plugged into the socket, which should be able to open the air.

Plug in the appliances one by one, and pay attention to which devices will trip, and you can determine which one is problematic.

Unplug the gas stove and close it again.

It is suspected that it is caused by a gas stove or a leakage of the line.

Your question is simple.

I've come across it too.

It's that you're using too much electricity.

Cause your main line to break.

Depending on your situation, because the insulation between the live wire and the neutral wire is not good, causing the neutral wire to have a virtual voltage, you can use a 220 volt bulb to connect it to the public meter box in your home, all of which are patterned with left fire and right zero no grounding is your misunderstanding, because the rural wire is not a building without a grounding wire, it relies on the earth to ground. You're just looking for someone to see if the zero line leading to your meter box is broken.

It is generally aluminum wire, which may be burned out.

It is very likely that the neutral line of the wire is burned out, because the electrical equipment (including the light) is connected and the switch is not turned off, so the test has electricity on both lines, and it is normal to show that the voltage is 123V, because the resistance of the electrical equipment has passed. The burnout is likely to be at the meter output. It is also possible that the meter has burned out.

Left zero and right fire refers to the wiring method of the socket. The ground wire is connected to the earth from the ground wire interface of the three-pin socket, and does not need to go through the meter box, and most of the rural areas are without ground wires.

Hello! Do you do it well! If not, just follow what I said, I've been an electrician in the factory for many years, hehe!

1. "Last night's electricity consumption was a bit big, and suddenly the light flashed a few times and the power went out" means that the connector is disconnected! The trip won't flash.

2."I measured it with an ordinary electric pen, and there is electricity on both wires, and even the electric energy measured by the zero line is brighter than that of the live wire" means that the zero line is open (disconnected).

3."However, the voltage displayed by these two zero live wires is 123V" The neon lamp will be lit at 90V! There is a virtual voltage in the neutral line (but turning on a load is the real voltage, be careful!) ）

4. "I peeled off the wire skin one by one from the electric switch of my house to the outlet of the public meter box, and all of them were the same, and the zero live wire was fully electrified. "The breakpoint is at the outlet of the meter! Or a little bit before and after! Open it and take a closer look!!

As for the wiring, it is strictly grounded under the fire of left zero and right, and the buildings in the county and township are not high! AC isn't so sophisticated! Use it the same.

1 The neutral line of the wire is burned, because the electrical equipment (including the light) is connected and the switch is not turned off, so the test has electricity on both lines.

Focus on checking. Whether there are traces of burnout in the contact situation of the zero line in the meter box, pay attention not to move to the zero line of other people's homes, and be careful of electric shock.

The zero line of your house is broken, and there is electricity on the zero line, follow the line to check, it is normal for the zero line to have no power.

The zero line at the power end is broken, and at the lower end of the fire meter, you can't find it and replace the zero wire, and you can temporarily pull a wire. Don't forget to adopt it, sister.

The situation you said should be that the zero line is broken, and only when the zero line is broken will it appear; Both wires have electricity. The neutral line should be broken in the public meter box [neutral row or meter tail] in the public meter box. In my house, there has also been zero fire and both wires have electricity, and the lights can still be on, but the voltage is not stable.

Later, it was found out that the public meter box was broken in the middle of the distribution room. The order of wiring is left zero and right fire, upper zero and lower fire, as for grounding; The power supply mode in rural areas is different from that of cities, with the power supply mode in rural areas being that the zero line is not grounded, and the power supply mode in urban areas being repeatedly grounded by the zero line. Some of the electricians in the village are not skilled, and they can't judge what the problem is.

If it is possible that the wire is short-circuited, just change to a neutral wire. I've had a similar problem in my family

You use a multimeter to test whether the two wires are 220v or 380v, if it is 220v, it will be fine.

3 All the plugs are broken, you want to take them out, make it clear! Disconnect the main switch, turn off the power and then disassemble the socket panel. It is impossible to destroy, you first have to remove the waterproof cover, some are screws, some are card type, find out the cover to see that there is a card position under the panel, pry open the panel, and remove the connected wire.

Take a picture and remember how each line is connected. It is estimated that this kind of socket is iron-framed, and it is also a card type, and the socket is disassembled and the iron sheet is taken out and reinstalled.

Whatever the method, be sure to operate with the power off.

Now the sockets are equipped with protective doors, and you don't know if it will work with needle-nose pliers, you can try a variety of methods.

It's not going to be a mess yet.

The problem of LED lights is nothing more than two reasons, 1 is the driver and 2 is the lamp beads. Most of the drive is broken, and it is also possible that the drive is broken, which affects the lamp beads and is broken at the same time, so replace it with a better brand of light board.

When you hear the ring, check whether your main switch is connected to the wire firmly, if it is firmly connected and ringing, don't care about it, you can't do it.

The air conditioners in the two rooms are turned on independently, no problem.

The maximum electricity consumption is your hall, hot pot, boiling water, and fire, and maybe air conditioning, but you can't see the air conditioning in the living room. Look at whether the line is thick enough, at least 4 square starts, not enough overcurrent do not use at the same time.

The bathroom has an electric water heater, and it is best to separate it from the kitchen.

It can't be changed, it will be used, and there is no big problem.

According to your description and analysis, there may be a virtual connection in the entrance line, which should be checked to eliminate hidden dangers.

As for the distribution box, the capacity of each branch switch is 32A, which is obviously not suitable. Switches with the appropriate capacity should be selected according to the load size of each circuit.

The main switch should not use a leakage circuit breaker, and the ordinary air opening should be applied, and the capacity should be matched with the load size, the inlet line, and the capacity of the meter. Socket circuits, kitchens and bathrooms need to use leakage circuit breakers, and other branches are opened with ordinary air.

There is a humming sound in the distribution room, there is equipment and then send out an alarm, and the general dry-type transformer has a humming alarm device, first find the sound, and then find the fault point. The distribution box specification requires the installation of a leakage current over-travel alarm, and when the leakage current at the load end reaches a certain set value, a Didi alarm will be issued!

If the fire emergency light keeps ringing, this should be touched, the press test button will be good, it may also be often power off, resulting in damage to the standby battery, if the press test button can not be recovered, it is the standby battery discharged, caused by lack of power; If the lighting time of 30min is not met, then the emergency light needs to be replaced.

1. The main power supply of the emergency light is cut off for a long time, causing the battery to lose power and send out an alarm. Fire emergency lights use rechargeable batteries and cannot be powered on for a long time.

2. You can try to power off to deplete the battery and recharge it. When used correctly, the power should be turned off regularly to prolong the battery life. It is recommended to cut off the power once a month.

Fire emergency light, suitable for fire emergency lighting, is the most common lighting tool in fire emergency, long emergency time, high brightness with power off automatic emergency function. Fire emergency lights have the characteristics of low power consumption, high brightness and long service life.

Is it an emergency light, the emergency light will sound when the mains power is off.

Aluminum wire is not recommended, but it doesn't matter. It is best to use the TV and induction cooker separately 1Power Reason 2Interference can cause phenomena such as screen jumping.

Because it is an aluminum wire, I screw two live wires together and two zero wires together. Connected to the socket can increase the flow rate,Mixed socket and independent separate socket are actually the same, but it's just upgraded to facilitate wiring,TV and induction cooker plugged in at the same time, if the TV is not affected, I don't think it matters。 Generally speaking, there will not be two live wires in a junction box, check whether there is a live wire that is controlled by the switch, if not, you can wire it according to the previous one.

No problem, as long as you draw the line clearly, don't get it wrong.

There are also people below who say electromagnetic interference, I don't think it has much impact, the outer layer of the cable is isolated by a metal mesh (you can open it and take a look), so that the electromagnetic is shielded, and the interference is definitely not very obvious.

Khan, this can also take into account the impact of induction cookers on TV!! First of all, this problem is a small problem: change to mixed, look at the line of the 4* BVR that the landlord should use, this 5th floor said:

The outer layer of the cable is isolated with a metal mesh (you can peel it off and take a look), so that the electromagnetic is shielded, and the interference is certainly not very obvious. "I'm dizzy, the shield from the civilian line. Shouldn't we be realistic in answering the question?

It doesn't matter if the landlord mixes, it mainly depends on whether the rated power that your socket can withstand and the rated current of the wire you substitute match. You said that it is 4 cores, and it is estimated that the wire used, if it is 4mm2, then you must have found a good electrician when you decorate. Flat line generation a TV:

The maximum power should not exceed 200W, your induction cooker is generally only 1200W for hot pot, the current will not exceed 6A, and your wire will withstand 10A No problem. In addition, the use of insulating glue to keep it is a very responsible performance and worthy of praise.

To explain one more thing, the influence of induction cooker and TV can be negligible, don't you have the experience of eating hot pot with induction cooker while watching TV? There is also the general three-hole socket, the third empty, is used for grounding, if you have the conditions to use one of the spare grounding wires, it is the best.

As long as it's an outlet, the function is the same, you just need to use it normally. The induction cooker should have a special socket, so as not to make it powerful and easy to contact loosely, produce sparks, and affect the TV.

Household power should all be one power supply, and it's unlikely that there will be two power supplies, so the one you're talking about should be a power supply that is also a power supply, not a single one, and it's the same as the one you're referring to.

If the bag is tight, it's good, after wrapping, between the two baotou and the two wires used are pulled apart, it's good, it won't increase the load of the line.

It is best to separate the induction cooker from the TV to avoid interference.

The electromotive force is the tendency of the voltage, such as the potential hydrokinetic energy (the force flowing downstream and the difference in water pressure) when the water in a reservoir is filled with water, and here is the voltage difference between the high potential and the low potential. The internal resistance is the relative resistance value of the wire itself, and the symbol (r) means that it must be able to conform to a conductor that produces only such a small relative resistance loss at a distance of 70 meters.