Do you want to knock off the small fork next to the taro?

The taro mainly leaves a taproot to grow, and such small side buds need to be knocked off.

Ordinary taro is mainly harvested from small taro, and the more branches of the side buds, the more fruits, so that the side buds do not need to be knocked off.

If there is a small fork next to the taro, it must be knocked out, otherwise it will affect his entire growth, and it will also affect one of his results.

Generally, these buds do not grow too big, which has little effect on the growth of intermediate taro, and can be reserved for next year's taro seed. If you grow too much and too vigorously, you need to remove some.

Is the little fork next to the taro going to be knocked off? I don't know about this, there should be a saying on the Internet, right?

The small fork next to the taro does not need to be knocked off.

1. The cotyledon buds that emerge from the roots of taro can be removed directly, but it is best not to cut them.

2. A planted taro can give birth to a lot of buds, this is a normal phenomenon, generally does not need to be cut, if you feel too dense, you can be appropriately sparse when planting, because taro likes to grow in a humid environment, cutting off the buds may cause the rot of the whole taro.

3. However, the best treatment method should be to cultivate soil every 10 days or so, the main purpose of which is to inhibit the germination of children and grandchildren's buds and promote the growth of taro in the underground part, which is the key measure for taro cultivation. Only by suppressing the offspring buds can the purpose of improving yield and quality be achieved.

The small fork next to the taro, this should be the account that needs to be knocked out, it should be able to avoid it from absorbing some nutrients, and in this way, it should be able to focus on the taro city, this should be to grow, and the effect will be better.

After breaking the forks, there is room for planting, so that it can grow more lushly.

2. After breaking the fork, taro can grow normally and rapidly.

3. Taro planting fork is conducive to management.

Environmental requirements. Taro, a perennial tuber plant, is often cultivated as an annual crop. The leaves are shield-shaped, the petioles are hypertrophied, and the base of the plant forms a short shrinking stem, which gradually accumulates nutrients and becomes fleshy bulbs spherical or lumpy.

However, the axillary bud activity in the middle and lower nodes is the strongest, and the first tillering occurs, which is moist under suitable conditions, not drought-tolerant, more shade-tolerant, and has the characteristics of aquatic plants, and can be cultivated in paddy field or dry land. The root system has weak absorption capacity and requires sufficient water throughout the growth period; It has wide adaptability to soil, and it is suitable for clay soil with fertile and deep soil with strong water retention; Taro is in a high temperature and humidity environment, germination begins at 15, the growth period requires a temperature of 20, and the bulb develops well at 27-30.

In the early stage, the root system is shallow, not drought tolerant, after planting taro roots, the new plant gradually expands and becomes, and then with the growth of the plant, a new bulbous stem is constantly formed, that is, fresh taro, in a suitable environment continuous tillering water quality is good, the air is fresh, the soil is fertile, the light is sufficient, the biological resources are diverse production base, the soil is about the pH value of organic matter content of loam or sandy soil is more suitable, land preparation can be carried out in the autumn after the land.

After autumn, the land is ploughed in winter, and the depth of cultivation is more than 30 centimeters early, and the condition can be used to use the walk-behind tractor to cultivate, the amount of soil is large, the cultivation is deep, and the effect is good. Through winter tillage can increase the ground temperature, loosen and thicken the living soil layer, the germination of small seedling shed is prone to high temperature, affecting the quality of the bud, which should be noted, and just germinate, but also to reduce the temperature in the shed, control at 20-21, so that the bud is robust, beneficial to the soil.

Apply basal fertilizer. Combined with land preparation, according to the size of the planting area, fertilization. Before germination, it is necessary to select the seeds, and in the stored taro seeds, select the robust taro with a single weight of more than 40 grams as seeds, and remove the sick and weak taro when selecting the seeds.

Dry seeds. After the taro is taken out of the storage cellar, it should be dried for 2-3 days until the tail of the taro shrinks slightly, so as to break the dormancy and promote germination.

Germination. There can be several ways to germinate: the easiest way is to mix the taro in wheat straw with appropriate moisture, put it in the sunny leeward place to germinate, the temperature is 20-25, and cover it with film or grass in the morning and evening to insulate and promote germination.

Another method is to promote germination indoors: in the indoor pan soil kang staring or stove, so that the temperature is constant at 20-25, the taro is placed on the indoor shelf for germination, in order to facilitate management and save space, can be placed in the whole bag, does not affect the germination, generally 30-40 days of germination, pay attention to the temperature to be lowered when the bud has just germinated, so that the temperature is kept at 20-21, can promote the bud robust. In addition, in order to make germination consistent, it should be checked in time and managed in batches.

Another method is to use small seedling sheds to promote germination. ‍