Nikon D90 18 105VR Kit Why do I sometimes fail to focus on black reflective objects?

These are normal, not "symptoms".

Only the middle focus point is cross-type, the other focus points are not very sensitive and precise. What does "inaccuracy occurs when the computer monitor is turned off" mean?

As for the inaccurate focus in the black area, the principle of camera focusing is to use the color and light and dark contrast, if the focus point is the same color that is close to light and dark, the contrast will not be found, and the focus can not be focused.

After the focal length is reduced, it is not that there is no focus inaccuracy, but the same aperture, the wider the field of view, the greater the depth of field, that is, the greater the clear range before and after the focus. As long as the focus point is within this range, the image that comes out is clear at the focal point. Therefore, telephoto has high requirements for focusing accuracy, and wide-angle lenses have low focusing requirements.

2.The "click" sound is the sound of VR stopping working. VR is usually turned off, it only starts when you focus, and it automatically turns off after a while to save power.

Hello: First of all, when you focus, the distance between the lens and the object, and how much focal length do you use?

The 18-105VR head is not a macro lens, and if the distance is too close, it will not be able to focus, and if the zoom is too large, it is also not allowed.

Summary. The metering mode of the Nikon D90 camera cannot be adjusted without a lens. Because the metering system needs to obtain light information through the lens, it is impossible to meter without a lens. It is recommended to always use the camera with a lens when using it.

The metering mode of the Nikon D90 camera cannot be adjusted without a lens. Because the metering system needs to obtain light information through the lens, it cannot be metered without a lens. It is recommended to use the camera slowly with the lens when using the camera.

Does the Nikon 70-300 lens have no stabilization.

The Nikon 70-300 lens is available in two versions, one of which is a VR version with stabilization, and the other is not. If your Nikon 70-300 lens doesn't have image stabilization, you'll need to pay attention to handheld stabilization when using it, or use an auxiliary stabilization device such as a tripod to avoid blurring when shooting.

Is it sensitive or simply not focusing? If you can't focus at all, you can look at the lower left corner of the lens when you hold the camera, there is a lever, and see if it is in the C gear? It may have been dialed by mistake.

There is a knob af m on the fuselage to see if it is selected in the m position (manual).

On another lens, did you also choose the manual focus M gear?

A year-old camera shouldn't have a problem.

1 Check the AF MF switching lever on the lower left corner of the lens and the fuselage to confirm that it is on the AF gear.

2 If the above methods do not work, it is recommended to send it for repair.

Judging from the description, it seems that the shutter button is not in good contact, and it is more secure to send it for repair.

If it's too hot, don't get too close to your body, it's easy to fog up.

Facing the camera lens, there is a handle at the bottom right of the lens, select [AF] or [M], and see if you accidentally put it on [M].

Move it back and forth a few times to see if there is any bad contact here.

Manually rotating the focus ring in autofocus mode has basically no effect, and the D head was directly screwed at the beginning, not once or twice, and then slowly changed.

There are many possible reasons for not being able to focus:

1.Both the lens and the body must be in AF mode to be automatic.

2.The focus lock is not locked.

3.The aperture of the D-head is not set to the minimum, which makes the camera unable to recognize and naturally cannot focus.

4.The focusing distance is too close and beyond the limit to handle.

5.The contrast is too small, or the light is too dim, the camera cannot measure the distance, and naturally cannot focus. Finally, the current position is exactly where you want to focus.

1.The quickest way to do this is to do a factory reset by clicking on the menu.

2.Whether the knob of the AF M on the fuselage is on the AF.

Look at AF or MF, both the body and the lens have to look.

AF MF switching lever on the fuselage.

The metering point of Nikon SLR metering is the range of the focus point.

The focusing distance between the face and the human eye is basically the same, and direct metering and focusing on the face should have little effect.

If you are demanding, use the lock face** move the camera to focus on the eyes, it is recommended to use the ** focus point to the face metering, press and hold the ae-l af-l button after metering, and move the camera to reframe the shot.

The premise is that you want to set this button to AE L Lock, otherwise both the focus and focus are locked or only the focus is locked, and the focus point is still on the face.

The reason why rape flower photography is dark is that the light of rape flower under the sun is very bright (itself is a light color), and the amount of spot metering or **metering should be increased** to make the picture light up.

Adjust the EV value, **compensate + or try. If the metering subject is too unexpected, it will automatically reduce the amount of **, and you must manually increase the **amount to be correct**; On the contrary, it is necessary to manually reduce the amount of **, and the so-called "white plus black minus" ** compensation law is this principle.

Often, the metering point is also your focus point! (also the core focus of shooting), so, after pressing the shutter halfway, the ** volume and focus are completed. At this point, keep the shutter pressed halfway, then adjust the framing, and finally press the shutter.

Portrait photography instructors recommend metering people's faces,-- which is for beginners! The difference between people's faces is relatively large: For example, a **delicate and whiter woman, and a **dark and rough man, also use facial metering, and the **value will be one and a half gears apart!

This has the potential to exceed the ** tolerance!

Then focus on the person's eyes--- which is usually not necessary! Unless the camera is fairly close to the person, within a meter! At this time, the face will be severely deformed! In general, the metering point covers the entire face of a person.

The effect of rape flowers under the sun is like the effect of a cloudy day--- I don't know if you are talking about the problem of insufficient **, or the problem of insufficient layers. If you measure the light on the flower, due to the bright yellow, the capacity is insufficient! At this time, the light should be supplemented according to experience (adjust the ** compensation, increase the half stop to the first stop, depending on the situation).

If the level is not enough, it may be that the shooting time is not very good, so don't shoot at noon.

You're doing a good job, but you have to focus first and then meter, otherwise you won't be able to focus accurately.

D90 When using spot metering, the metering point and the focus point of the camera are the same point, you must first press the shutter halfway to the human eye to focus, then move the metering point to the appropriate part of the face for metering, then press and hold the AE-L AF-L button to lock**, and finally recompose the photo and press the shutter completely. Be sure to hold down the AE-L AF-L button for a long time before pressing the shutter completely, as once you let go, the metering will fail.

When shooting rape flowers, you are metering rape flowers, because rape flowers are relatively bright, so when shooting with aperture priority or shutter priority, you should add 1-2 stops** compensation, otherwise it will be insufficient**.

The metering mode is a bit of metering, evaluative metering, I shoot portraits generally use spot metering, focus on the person's eyes halfway press the shutter and then press the AE-L AF-L button, at this time do not let go, reframe the shot before shooting. It is best to use evaluative metering to shoot landscapes, and then it is best to shoot in the morning or evening, whether it is a portrait or a landscape, you must master the use of light.

Reasons for difficulty in focusing or inability to focus:

Manual focus cannot be in focus:

If the lens is too close to the subject, it will not be in focus if it is less than the minimum focal distance of the lens. Appropriate distance between the lens and the subject is sufficient.

Autofocus cannot be in focus:

1: The lens is too close to the subject and cannot be in focus when it is less than the minimum focal distance of the lens. Appropriate distance between the lens and the subject is sufficient.

2: The focus switch on the lens is in the manual focus position, just dial it to AF;

3: Subjects with very small contrasts, such as: blue sky;

4: The light is too dim;

5: Near and far subjects covered by 1 AF point, e.g. bird in a cage;

6: Strong backlight or reflection, such as: car with strong body reflection.

In this case, it is normal for autofocus to be unable or difficult to focus, so you can use manual focus instead, and the sensitivity of the focus point is different depending on the body, so try to use the center AF point as much as possible.

What is the difference between two (af m); The function is the same, for example, if you use other lenses, you don't have (af m) and you can use the wrench on the body. (like 50 nice old shots).

The 18-105 has the (af m) function on the lens, so you see two (af m) functions, and you just have to turn off one of them (af m) on the body or on the lens.

Fully open manual mode (lens, left side of the body, mode dial), no flash in indoor light, the ** shot is completely black, probably because the aperture you use is too small (not enough light transmission), the indoor light is too dark (not enough light transmission) and the shutter time is too fast (not enough light transmission). What you want to do is increase the light transmission (increase the sensitivity of the sensor in the camera).

You can start by turning up the aperture (the larger the value, the smaller the aperture, the smaller the number, the larger the aperture), the larger the aperture, the larger the sensor in the camera, the larger the amount of light in the camera, and you may get a completely white photo**.

Then pay attention to the shutter speed should not be too fast: the shutter speed is fast, the amount of light is less (600 1), and vice versa, it is large (60 1).

Finally, be aware that the indoor light is too dark, and you can turn on the indoor lights or use a flash.

The A stop on the lens is the autofocus mode, which uses the lens's own ultrasonic motor; The AF gear on the body is a mode that uses the body focusing motor to drive the lens for focusing; The M stop on the lens and body is a purely manual focus mode. See pages P54 and P59 of the instruction manual for details.

In addition, the ** you shoot when you are all manual is all black, which may be**seriously insufficient.

Additional answer: When using the 18-105 lens (AF-S), don't move the body, still put it in the AF mode, just put the A-M switch button on the lens to M. When using AF lenses, you need to set the switch button on the camera body to the M position.

is a meaning ... The AF MF on the body mainly corresponds to the AF and MF when using a lens with a D-type nonfocus motor

Are you sure you're using auto? Instead of a P file?? All black** Please self-check the EXIF information or send it to help check it.

If you want to do it manually, you don't need the focus selection button on the trigger body, just the lens!!

I'm used to pressing the lens a m, but some lenses don't have this switch, so I want to motivate me.

When the M gear is in the M gear, pay attention to adjust it with the rear dial**, so that your** is not completely black.

The hand on the lens The button for autofocus switching (AF M is the manual and automatic hand that controls the lens, the hand on the left side of the camera body The AF twist (AF M is the hand that controls the camera body, as long as one of them is manually focused, you have to manually focus, and two are automatic to autofocus. There is also a full-open manual mode, so you need to control the aperture and shutter speed when shooting indoors. It is recommended to take a good look at the camera's manual.

Focusing mode: Focus mode:

Autofocus (AF): Single Servo AF (AF-S); Continuous servo AF (AF-C); Automatic servo AF (AF-A).

Manual focus (m) can be selected from 11 focus points.

Autofocus: The Nikon Multi-CAM 1000 autofocus module features TTL phase detection, 11 focus points (including 1 cross-type sensor), and an autofocus assist illuminator (ranging approximately.

Focus area: AF area mode: single point, dynamic area, AF auto area, 3D tracking error correction focus points: 11 points.

Focusing range: Depends on the lens.

Focusing method:

Autofocus (AF): Single Servo AF (AF-S); Continuous servo AF (AF-C); Automatic servo AF (AF-A).

Manual focus (m) can be selected from 11 focus points.