Canon 18 55is lens not autofocus issue

The Canon 18-55 is sleeve cannot autofocus mostly because the cable is broken, because the material of the original cable is easy to age and become brittle, in the process of lens zoom, the cable is constantly folded, and eventually causes breakage, and the body cannot read the information of the focus ring, so AF focus is refused. This fault is not that some people think that the focus code does not work, in fact, the focus code is always on the power, but the position of the focus ring cannot be read, and the command to turn clockwise or counterclockwise cannot be made, so it causes the failure of the autofocus.

1. Remove the rear bayonet screw and remove the bayonet.

2. Remove the cables.

3. Remove the motherboard.

4. Use a toothpick to carefully pry open the button cover of the focusing anti-bucket, remove the screws at both ends of the focusing assembly, and then the focusing assembly can be removed.

5. The cable is found to be broken.

6. Remove the brush plate of the cable.

7. The wire is glued with double-sided tape and carefully peeled off with tweezers.

8. Replace the cables.

Don't turn the focus ring when autofocusing, not all lenses can automatically rotate the focus ring at the same time.

If it's not a lens problem, you can change the single focus to continuous focus in the focus mode. If it's a lens problem, then change the lens.

I think it's due to a problem with your lens motor, which is causing a signal error. Try it with your unit's lens, if it's okay. Just send the lens to a repair shop for further repair. However, it is not expensive to repair the motor. It is recommended to get a new head.

A lot of the possible oh:

You have made the wrong choice of focus mode.

The 2,18-55 IS is not a full-time manual focus lens, and it is easy to break if you can't manually turn the focus ring in the case of autofocus.

No more than 3000 lenses, 450D on the Tamron 17-50 VC B005 anti-shake version, just released this year, very good. Of course, it's relatively good with 3000, hehe.

The Canon EOS 650D 18-55 II does not autofocus for the following reasons:

1. If the autofocus function of the lens is not turned on, the focusing mode of the lens is set to AF mode;

2. When shooting, pay attention to the minimum focusing distance outside the effective focusing range;

3. If the light or the color of the subject is single during shooting, it is impossible to focus auto-focus, so manual focus is optional;

4. The camera or lens cannot be autofocused due to malfunction and needs to be repaired.

Canon's 18-55 from the first generation to the present, with or without IS, without a focus motor.

Manual focus is definitely a troublesome point, and the viewfinder of the DSLR is not designed for manual focus now. Manual focus is best with ** split image and micro-prism.

Now that the lens can be automatic, you can look at the automatic and manual switches between your body and lens, and it may be turned off by mistake.

If you can buy a cable, you should be able to buy a tool set, including a tic-tac-toe wrench, a screwdriver, a nylon crowbar, a lens suction cup, and so on.

The most critical part of making good use of 18-55 is: framing and framing.

It is a very commonly used focal length segment, that is, because it is too commonly used, so the effect in many photography is generally not captured. But an 18-55 win is often used. Therefore, as long as you work the most basic places, you can make up for the gap in effect.

There is a difference between what the camera can show and what the eye can see.

Photography is an artistic representation of this difference.

This kind of artistry is to use composition to show Hu Hui and use framing to embody it.

In fact, no matter what kind of focal length is the lens, if you don't add your own thoughts when shooting, no matter how beautiful the shooting is, it can only be called a sugar water film.

Only thoughtful and in-depth ** is a good work.

18-55 If you can't achieve good results in terms of artistic effect, you can only work the composition and think more about the framing.

Don't take the camera, just press the shutter.

Think more about why it's beautiful and how to shoot it the most beautiful.

Only in this way can we make up for the shortcomings of 18-55.

First of all, the lens does not come with an instruction manual. This head is a tourist head, and the focal length of the tour is generally 18 to 200, so this head can only shoot part of the tour**. Except for tourism, everything else is reluctantly.

If you want to use good fortune and this filial piety, you should pat more landscapes, buildings, and other spacious things when traveling. It is recommended that you buy the head from 55 to 250, so that the daily focus of travel is complete. It's also easier to use.

1. Use the same focal length of the middle book, that is, between 20-50mm. The distortion becomes smaller

2. The aperture is a little smaller, which is the best image quality aperture for this lens

The sharpness is high 3, and try not to shoot against the light, after all, the quality of the lens coating determines the average performance of the backlight digging zichang.

There are many possibilities of not being able to focus, mainly to mention a few.

1.Whether or not your lens has fallen, this can sometimes lead to a noticeable focus point that can not be noticed.

2.If the lens retracts back and forth several times and cannot focus, it means that your focus point is not prominent enough, so please choose manual focus.

3.For the selection of focus mode, select Single Focus.

I think the most likely thing about you is the second point. You can try it against a white wall and see if it's the same as if you're focusing at a distance. Theoretically, you can't focus.

How far? What about the light? There are two possibilities that you can't focus at a distance, either your subject is too bright or too dark, or the contrast is too obvious for the machine to tell. Then there's the camera.

What focus mode you use, you first use a single point to focus at a time. No, it's a lens problem, if you can, that's your setting problem, if you set up an automatic selection of focus points, it's not necessarily that you want to focus**is**.

This value must be matched with the size of the CCD to know what the vision is. Generally, it is converted into the vision of a full-frame camera, and then corresponds to the focal length.

How far you can shoot depends mainly on your acceptance. You can also take pictures of the moon, but it is certain that you can't see the details clearly.

1200 pixels has nothing to do with the quality of the photo, now this value is very high, SLR also has 6 million pixels, obviously the card machine is generally not as good as this picture quality.

With a lens, depending on what kind of body you have, Canon Nikon will be different.

However, **1500, only 18-105 is selected.

Why is it written on the lens of the point-and-shoot card machine and why is the number of this shot so big?

This is the actual focal length of the lens, and since the frame is different in comparison, the equivalent focal length is generally compared.

How far can this lens be shot at a distance?

The 1855mm lens has a maximum focal length of 55mm and an equivalent focal length of 88mm, which is the longest focal length of this lens.

Can you shoot clearly with a 12-megapixel machine?

You can shoot clearly, in fact, the previous SLRs were all 6 million pixels, which is enough.

Do you want to shoot close-up with a rematch lens?

To see how close you are, you can't shoot beyond the closest focusing distance of this lens, so you need to use a close-up lens or a direct macro lens.

Where is it in the distance? It is recommended to add a telephoto lens.

What kind of lens does it come with?

Telephoto lenses such as Canon White Rabbit, Little White, Fat White, Little Green and so on.

I don't need a zoom lens but 2 3 What do I want to match with a prime lens (mainly for travel, home, sometimes shooting near landscapes, without a wide-angle lens, the total price is about 1500, help recommend it).

If you have a full prime lens, the total price of about 1500 is hopeless, unless you buy a second-hand lens, but the second-hand lens will not be so cheap, there is an option within 1500, hehe, a large aperture entry lens.

The calibration on the machine is the actual focal length, which is generally converted to the focal length corresponding to 135 film. So according to the point-and-shoot camera, it is generally equivalent to about 36mm-108mm, and the conversion factor of Canon is, so 18-55 is equivalent to approximately, and the general human eye angle of view is equivalent to a focal length of about 50mm. So 1855 is generally wide enough, but not long enough.

If you really want to buy it within 1500, you can buy a 50 about 700RMB, take portraits, sketches, you can do it. Save up the rest and wait until you are familiar enough with the machine to change the lens you need

Your question is so complicated!

For example, the point-and-shoot is marked with his zoom range. Any lens can shoot far and close, but the viewing angle is different, the wide-angle lens shoots the east and west angles are relatively large, the range is smaller than that of Guangdong and west, and the telephoto lens shoots the east and west angles are relatively small, the range is relatively small, and the things are relatively large.

If there is a DSLR machine, it is recommended to buy a pullover, for example, 18-55

The lenses produced by the auxiliary factory generally have compatibility problems, which cannot be seen in the short term, and can be found after a long time, and many of the focal length, speed, bokeh, and image stabilization are not as good as the original factory. After all, the fuselage is produced by others, and no matter how well the auxiliary factory does it, it can't get the technical support of the original fuselage manufacturer.

Does the failure mean that 1) the camera cannot drive the lens to focus in autofocus mode, or 2) that the autofocus fails?

If it's case 1, it's possible that the lens is faulty or the body is faulty, try another lens, and if the autofocus is normal, it's a problem with your 18-55 lens. If it still doesn't work, it may be a failure of the fuselage. There's no other way, just send it for repair.

In the case of 2, it is possible that the subject is not illuminated enough and the camera is not focusing correctly. In this case, the built-in flash can be bounced up and the focus assist light can be used to focus. If you are not using the flash, you can turn it off after the focus has been successful.

It is very common to be unable to close focus, for the following reasons: the light is too dark, a large area of a single picture (such as a wall, water surface), the solution has been talked about upstairs, the simplest is to change the focus point, find a place with a large contrast to focus.

It may be that the light is too dark for the camera to focus. You can use a flashlight to illuminate the dark place, press the shutter halfway, and then turn off the flashlight when the camera is focused, or let the camera lens move to the bright place to focus, and move back after alignment, but the focus will change slightly.