The punch jog switch button started the machine at one point, and there was no jog What s going on,

Check whether the jog button is broken, sometimes caused by poor contact between the contacts in the button.

The self-locking wire of the actuation button should be connected in series to the normally closed contact of the jog button.

The wire is connected incorrectly. You've connected the jog into continuous operation.

Check whether the wiring is in poor contact, and check whether the chord contacts of the jog control contactor are normal.

Look at the electrical control box in front of this punch press does not seem to have the option switch to adjust the joging, and the electrical box on the side does not know if there is this option. If not, this punch press will not have a jog function. If so, adjust the switch to the jog position, and the punch can be jogged.

When installing the mold, first reduce the slider of the punch to the lowest point, that is, the bottom dead center. By looking at the crankshaft of the punch press, the bottom dead center can be found. Then adjust the lead screw of the slider to the shortest distance to make the slider rise to the highest point.

Then measure the distance from the slider to the punch work table, the closing height of the die. Then the slider of the punch press is raised, and then the mold is pushed forward, and then the slider is slowly lowered, and in the process of lowering the slider, the mold handle of the mold should be aligned with the mounting hole of the slider. After the slider is lowered to the lowest point, if the slider is not pressed to the upper plane of the mold, you need to adjust the adjusting screw of the slider to make the slider lower and press the mold.

Then tighten the fastening screws of the slider. Then lift the slider slightly to loosen the mold, and then press the slider down, press the mold, and then press the lower mold with a pressure plate. When pressing the lower die, be sure not to let the end of the pressure plate against the side of the die.

Otherwise, the lower die will be offset from the upper die, and the die will be damaged during stamping. When installing the mold, it is best to use a large wheel with a prototype and do not start the machine tool, which is safer.

Start by determining whether it's an electrical or mechanical fault.

1.Overload cylinder overload cylinder drainage.

2.Cool the shrink link and mold with liquid nitrogen or dry ice.

3.Destroy the cheapest ball nose screw for punches.

4.If the air pressure is not very high when you die, you can use the method of increasing the air pressure.

5.If it is a split gantry punch, the 4 pull columns of the fuselage can be loosened.

What you said is suffocated, it should be the mold closed to death, right?

The mold is closed to death, and there is no way to reverse, so look at whether your pneumatic punch has a hydraulic overload protection system, most of the current JH series are bringed, and the imported brand punch is bringing. If you have a hydraulic overload protection system, there is a vent on the overload pump, and if you open it, the oil will be automatically discharged, and the slider of the punch (that is, the upper die) will become loose by a few millimeters, so that it will not be"Stuffy"so that you can reverse and even directly open the point to hit the next dead center.

Tragically, if your punch press doesn't have a hydraulic protection system and the collapse safety block isn't broken, you'll have to loosen the die platen and knock the die out. This hurts the accuracy of the punch guide rail, and it is difficult to avoid breaking the punch guide column on the die.

Of course, it's good to be able to knock it out, I used to have to punch at high speed, and that thing didn't have any overload protection, so I directly looked for gas welding and cutting, and cut the mold base to get the mold down.

Therefore, it is recommended that if the punch does not have a hydraulic overload protection system, the plate that is raised under the mold seat as much as possible when erecting the mold, use two vertical iron plates, and do not lock it on the mold base with screws. In this way, the rash will be closed and dead, and it will be much easier to knock.

Press the reset switch, turn off the power and restart

Check whether the top dead center proximity switch is normal.

Are you talking about, click it, just let it go, the machine tool is still moving, if you want to check the clutch, what model are you?

Hello, please do the following checks: 1. Check the common abnormalities of the inverter inverter**: 1. OC overcurrent 2, OV overvoltage 3, OH overheating 1, long-term load is large; 2. The heat dissipation conditions of the inverter are insufficient; 3. The blades of the cooling fan inside the inverter are damaged and there is too much dust; 4. The upper and lower ventilation blockages of the inverter) 4. Overload of the OL driver 5. OL2.