How do I weathering a Gundam? Gundam s method of aging

First of all, let's try to make him old and give him some scars.

Use the Gundam Weathered Marker Set of 6), before use, shake the pen back and forth to evenly mix the inner paint.

For initial use, press the tip of the pen on the paper to allow the paint to flow out.

Lightly dot the edges.

If you make a mistake after using an enamel marker, wipe it with an ENAMEL solvent before the paint dries.

The painting method uses the enamel color and uses a light gray.

Use a face to draw small scars.

Add some dark black blend.

Use dark gray to thin the light gray you just painted.

Draw the highlights in white, just a little bit.

The effect of the painting method. One thing to note is that this method is not suitable for large areas of breakage.

After the aging is done, in order to make the heavy metal feel stronger, let's learn to make metal tears.

Using the color pen in the Weathered Marker, squeeze out the paint and carefully draw the rust stain with a face brush.

Then dip the pen in water to slightly blur the water-based paint. for a more natural effect.

Next, let's take a look at the enamel pigments to achieve the above effect.

The choice of color is: XF-9.

Similarly, use a face brush to draw the effect of rust stains flowing down.

Re-dip in ENAMEL special solvent.

Slightly dissolve the rust stains of the painting to achieve a natural effect.

When drawing, pay attention to the flow direction of the rust stain and the location of the accumulation. This will be more realistic.

After the rust stains are completed, how to do the mud marks on the soles of the feet to achieve a realistic effect?

Use the Weathered Marker in the Color Pen.

Draw the outline of the mud at the edge of the foot.

Then squeeze out the paint from the marker pen and use a flat-tip pen to lightly dip the paint on the nib.

Use the dry sweeping method to extend the longitudinal dry sweeping effect to produce a splashing mud effect.

Don't sweep too much in the same place, the colors will gather and be unrealistic, and strive to fit the overall effect.

Does the landlord need war damage or decay? If you are damaged in battle, it is really difficult to do, you must destroy the outer surface, and then use a painting tool to paint - if it is very difficult to do aging, you can wash the stains, dilute the paint, dip some with a large pen, apply it where you need it, and then gently press it on the surface with a clean napkin to make the stain more natural. Battle damage and aging are suitable for the UC series of mechs, and the effect of battle damage from previous weapons is more shocking =-=

Distressing techniques include dry sweeping, high dark light, seepage, battle damage and other techniques; 1.Dry sweeping: use a soft brush (large) to boil the hair of the large brush in water, so that it spreads out, dried, it becomes a dry cleaning pen, you can also buy one directly if you have the conditions, but the effect is the same, use a dry brush pen dipped in light-colored paint (preferably white) to rub the pen on the waste paper repeatedly, until the color is not visible, and then repeatedly swipe on the protrusion of the model, a small number of times, until it is completed, stain washing and dry cleaning can be combined (tool:

Dry sweep pen, light paint) 2High dark light: the same as dry sweeping, but there are differences in processing tools and techniques, directly use a brush to apply the paint to the high dark light (that is, the dark junction), the highlight is light, and the dark light is dark; 3.

Seepage: more difficult than the first two techniques, Seepage (stain washing) method, dilute with pigment (as much dilution as possible, it is recommended to use oil-based paint stain washing, oily ductility is very good, zippo oil + oil paint is also good), dip a little with a brush, dip it in the light and shade, let the pigment penetrate into the edges and corners by itself, and take a small number of times to carry out the method (it takes some time); (Tools: fine brush, oil-based paint, zippo oil + oil paint) 4

Battle damage: the most difficult processing skills, need to combine the above three techniques to use at the same time, the key to war damage lies in the realism of the war damage parts and the naturalness of the seepage, you can learn more from other model war damage works, or the pictures on the history books, you need to use a utility knife, the white spot treatment must be good; Rust treatment can be done with metallic pigments (Tamiya), the surface of the plate with a pen knife to scratch out the traces, and then use the method of seepage to treat it.

Buy color sticks, grind them into powder and put them on the surface of Gundam, or you can use a Gundam special weathering marker.

I'll give you a tutorial, with pictures and instructions.

Distressing techniques include dry sweeping, high dark light, seepage, battle damage and other techniques;

1.Dry sweeping: use a soft brush (large) to boil the hair of the large brush in water, so that it spreads out, dried, it becomes a dry cleaning pen, you can also buy one directly if you have the conditions, but the effect is the same, use a dry brush pen dipped in light-colored paint (preferably white) to rub the pen on the waste paper repeatedly, until the color is not visible, and then repeatedly swipe on the protrusion of the model, a small number of times, until it is completed, stain washing and dry cleaning can be combined (tool:

Dry sweep pen, light paint).

2.High dark light: the same as dry sweeping, but there are differences in processing tools and techniques, directly use a brush to apply the paint to the high dark light (that is, the dark junction), the highlight is light, and the dark light is dark;

3.Seepage: more difficult than the first two techniques, Seepage (stain washing) method, dilute with pigment (as much dilution as possible, it is recommended to use oil-based paint stain washing, oily ductility is very good, zippo oil + oil paint is also good), dip a little with a brush, dip it in the light and shade, let the pigment penetrate into the edges and corners by itself, and take a small number of times to carry out the method (it takes some time); (Tools:.)

Fine brushes, oil-based paints, zippo oil + oil paints.

4.Battle damage: the most difficult processing skills, need to combine the above three techniques to use at the same time, the key to war damage lies in the realism of the war damage parts and the naturalness of the seepage, you can learn more from other model war damage works, or the pictures on the history books, you need to use a utility knife, the white spot treatment must be good; Rust treatment can be done with metallic pigments (Tamiya), the surface of the plate with a pen knife to scratch out the traces, and then use the method of seepage to treat it.

Rust. Rust.

Mud. Scratches.

Bullet holes. Bullet holes.

The most common and basic of these types of scorching is scratches, but instead of spray paint, it is dipped in silver paint with chalk, and then only a small amount of residue is left on the side of the palette and then applied to the edges of the model, etc., and then we first try to make him old so that he has some scars. Use the Gundam Weathered Marker Set of 6 Sticks), before use, shake the pen back and forth to mix the inner paint evenly, and press the tip of the pen on the paper to let the paint flow out when you first use it. Gently paint on the edges, so that you can achieve the scar effect, and then the mud, you can use the same as the mud Tiangong paint, and the remaining powder can be coated on the model after the liquid in the Tiangong paint has evaporated and dried, and the remaining several weathering treatments can go to the Internet to see the professional teaching**, not much to say here.

Scorch can be done directly with a pencil, paint off as long as it is done with silver paint, enamel paint is mainly to buy iron brown to do rust, grass green to do grass gray, yellow-brown to make mud.

The weathering effect basically includes rust.

Rust. Mud.

Scratches. bullet holes, etc.

The best materials are oil paints and foundation for girls.

Bullet holes and scorch effects, etc., can be done with shallow bullet marks or burnt edges.

There are many ways to do this, and there are roughly the following:

The first MAX is commonly known as shadow spraying, the primer is black, and the color is lightly sprayed to cover the edges and corners to form a shadow to enhance the three-dimensional effect, and there is also a certain degree of weathering effect.

For the second stain, apply with ZIPPO oil and black or brown oil paint, and wait 15-20 minutes to wipe off.

The third paint is removed, which can be stroked with a 4B pencil or with dark stainless steel silver.

Fourth, dry sweeping, usually using Tamiya's enamel lacquer silver as the main color of dry sweeping, dry sweeping, of course, is to dry a little to sweep, the pen is dipped in paint and repeatedly wiped dry with paper to sweep.

Fifth, this method is commonly used in the production of tank models, but it is a good way to do sotering. It's called a filter or a filter, not a camera filter. This method is more difficult to master, but it is very simple, use army green, dark brown, white and black oil paint diluted with zippo oil and dot it on the model, and wait for the dry and semi-dry pen with moistened and glued zippo oil to mix the dotted paint together!

Because there are many effects of aging, such as rust aging, fire aging, extreme freezing aging, etc., this requires a certain degree of understanding and experience in the proportion of colors!

The sixth is the battle damage.,This is more complicated.。。。 Perm, hot knife cutting, punching, etc., if this is colored, it is difficult to require high spraying technology, and the requirements for pump pens are also very high.

The seventh is to paste the natural soil, etc., which is too expensive to afford... Can't guide anymore!

Either way, the weathering must be matte paint!

There are many similar tutorials on Dengeki hobby, and the landlord can check it out.